ContinuousWave
Whaler
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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Classic Console Installation
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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
Classic Console Installation
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| Author | Topic: Classic Console Installation |
| RocketMan |
posted 03-24-2015 08:36 PM ET (US)  
I'm at the beginning of restoring a 1968 Classic Boston Whaler 16 footer. The hull was pretty clean to start and it's being painted. The console and RPS are being fabricated by Nautical Marine. And I'm headed to the Palm Beach Boat Show this weekend for a motor. I'm hung up trying to come up with an improved way to attach the RPS and console to the hull. I want to avoid having them sotting directly on the deck where they tend to develop leaks due to shock and vibration. Instead, I want to space them up enough to keep them out of the water that normally accumulates inside during use. Has anyone come up with an improvement to the original mounting scheme? |
| RevengeFamily |
posted 03-25-2015 06:11 AM ET (US)
RocketMan... After rebuilding my console and bench seat in my 1967 Sakonnett 18 years ago, I used blocks of Mahogany 2.5" X 3.5" X 16" which I treated with Teak oil prior to installation... After rebuilding the console and the bench, I finished each with 7 coats of Epifanes varnish, including the bottoms to prevent water absorption... To fasten the blocks to the deck, I used stainless screws which I counter sunk approximately 2". I then applied a small dab of 3M 4200 over each screw hole to prevent water entry. The over sized blocks allowed me to elevate both the bench and the console approximately 1.5" to keep them out of standing water and the early morning dew that can hasten the demise of the varnish... The console and bench have been refinished since, but I no longer have issues with deteriorating wood from water absorption... Norm |
| tedious |
posted 03-25-2015 07:31 AM ET (US)
The "foot" of my 15's console is a piece of black starboard 2" high. No wood touches the deck itself, and the black disappears visually so you still see the nice mahogany. I just sealed the screws holding the starboard to the floor with Boat Life caulk, but if you want you could use more caulk on the face of the Starboard as well, to provide more sealing surface. Tim |
| RocketMan |
posted 03-25-2015 08:45 AM ET (US)
That's what I'm talking about, Norm. Can you please post a few pics? Thanks! |
| RocketMan |
posted 03-25-2015 08:49 AM ET (US)
Also, has anyone moved the RPS and or console fore or aft in a classic 16 hull? If so for what reasons and what results? I've heard some have moved it a few inches forward snd improved the ride. Also, Nautical Marine is already making the console a few inches taller than OEM. |
| Binkster |
posted 03-25-2015 11:55 AM ET (US)
Its the plywood sides of the classic mahogany console on 16 footers that are really prone to rot no matter how the console is mounted. Have the builder cap the bottom of the console by using as piece of solid mahogany routed our and glued and screwed to the the plywood bottom. rich |
| RevengeFamily |
posted 03-26-2015 08:55 PM ET (US)
Rocketman, Will be a while before I am able to get photos... The boat is under shrink wrap and at my brothers house... Maybe he can shoot a few photos and email them to me... Norm |
| 64nauset |
posted 03-28-2015 08:41 PM ET (US)
"Its the plywood sides of the classic mahogany console on 16 footers that are really prone to rot..." I solved the problem by soaking all wood that sits on the deck in CPES penetrating epoxy for multiple treatments, until it finally quits soaking in. Some weeks later when it has cured completely, coats of varnish are added. From the photo you can see how far into the plywood the epoxy goes. Works well. This was also done to the cleats. |
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