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Author Topic:   Hull Repairs

fallguy1000 posted 04-05-2015 10:21 AM ET (US)
I brought [a 1968 Boston Whaler 13-foot boat] out of the back a few weeks ago and started sanding. My sander is woefully inadequate and I have a nice long board autobody sander that works much better, but need a better compressor-gonna get one tomorrow.
Here is a picture after some light sanding. [There is] some serious hullsides crazing, that I would like to get rid of, but it is major on the sides. Could I notched-trowel fair the sides to get rid of [the serious crazing]? [Should I use] 1/8-inch fairing over the whole side, or better to grind off, then fair?
I started to sand and work on the transom. The steering mount bolt holes had crushed the hull exterior and foam. The good news is the boat was upside down since October and the foam was for the most part dry. A little damp, but not bad.
This is what [the hull] looks like now. I removed the crushed foam and removed the foam all the way to the other side. Even the holes were ovaled, so this needs to be fixed. I did the backgrinding and I'm a little unsure as to the best fix. The dimension there is 1-5/8-inch, so I thought it might work to make two small pieces of marine ply to fit in the hole and bed them in chopstrand putty and then pull them tight to the inside of the hull with a screw and washer, and then glass over them. I am not sure of the best layup plan for the glass. I obviously can't go 12:1 here, but I suppose I could bevel more where not up against the edge. Thanks for any replies.

jimh posted 04-08-2015 11:01 AM ET (US)
The typical top coats used in fiberglass boats, such as polyester resin gel coat, are not very flexible, and they will tend to crack if there is any movement or instability in the surface or structure onto which they are applied. For that reason, I do not recommend you apply a top coat over those portions of the hull where you are seeing a lot of cracking and crazing. If you do not stabilize that surface, any new top coat will probably also crack.
The hull sides and bottom of your classic Boston Whaler 13-foot boat are blue. I don't think that is original. Usually only the cockpit interior was blue, and the hull and bottom were white. Has someone already applied one new top coat layer onto this boat?

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Author	Topic: Hull Repairs
fallguy1000	posted 04-05-2015 10:21 AM ET (US) I brought [a 1968 Boston Whaler 13-foot boat] out of the back a few weeks ago and started sanding. My sander is woefully inadequate and I have a nice long board autobody sander that works much better, but need a better compressor-gonna get one tomorrow. Here is a picture after some light sanding. [There is] some serious hullsides crazing, that I would like to get rid of, but it is major on the sides. Could I notched-trowel fair the sides to get rid of [the serious crazing]? [Should I use] 1/8-inch fairing over the whole side, or better to grind off, then fair? I started to sand and work on the transom. The steering mount bolt holes had crushed the hull exterior and foam. The good news is the boat was upside down since October and the foam was for the most part dry. A little damp, but not bad. This is what [the hull] looks like now. I removed the crushed foam and removed the foam all the way to the other side. Even the holes were ovaled, so this needs to be fixed. I did the backgrinding and I'm a little unsure as to the best fix. The dimension there is 1-5/8-inch, so I thought it might work to make two small pieces of marine ply to fit in the hole and bed them in chopstrand putty and then pull them tight to the inside of the hull with a screw and washer, and then glass over them. I am not sure of the best layup plan for the glass. I obviously can't go 12:1 here, but I suppose I could bevel more where not up against the edge. Thanks for any replies.
jimh	posted 04-08-2015 11:01 AM ET (US) The typical top coats used in fiberglass boats, such as polyester resin gel coat, are not very flexible, and they will tend to crack if there is any movement or instability in the surface or structure onto which they are applied. For that reason, I do not recommend you apply a top coat over those portions of the hull where you are seeing a lot of cracking and crazing. If you do not stabilize that surface, any new top coat will probably also crack. The hull sides and bottom of your classic Boston Whaler 13-foot boat are blue. I don't think that is original. Usually only the cockpit interior was blue, and the hull and bottom were white. Has someone already applied one new top coat layer onto this boat?