Using a toggler anchor under deck 18 Outrage

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Author Topic:   Using a toggler anchor under deck 18 Outrage

FISHNFF posted 05-04-2015 05:38 PM ET (US)
I am still putting together my theft recovered 1988 18 Outrage.
My aftermarket Todd Cooler seat with rod holders was tskrn, so I'm replacing my non-OEM seat with another non-OEM seat, this time a Wise SS framed swingback seat.
The stem seat had 8 mounting screws through a flat poly base. A bunch of 5200. Solid.
The new seat uses 1" SS pipe as a frame. Round stsinless on a whaler deck didn't seem like a good idea.
Taking advice from a guy on another site using this same seat routed a 1/2" deep 1" diameter groove in 2 strips of Starboard to cradle the stainless tube seat legs. Great. Looks good.
Problem.
There are only 2 screws on each leg. Each leg is 16" in length, holes 12" apart. So that's 4 screws holding down the chair.
Has anyone successfully used SS toggler bolts to securely throughbolt to the deck of an 18 Outrage?

FISHNFF

dfmcintyre posted 05-04-2015 06:23 PM ET (US)
Are the legs situated so they will sit on the fuel tank cover? If so, I'd consider removing the cover and place an aluminum backing plate underneath.

Regards - Don
FISHNFF posted 05-10-2015 12:52 AM ET (US)
Removing the tank cover is not really an option.
I'm just concerned if 4 #10 wood screws fastened into the deck of my 1988 18 Outrage is adequate.
Binkster posted 05-10-2015 12:25 PM ET (US)
Is this the seat you are considering? ($500)
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=94564
if so, its not worthy of a Whaler and too expensive. The design is not bad, so print a pic. and take that and your cooler to a local T-top fabricator. Ask him to copy it using 2" polished aluminum pipe and weld 2 angles on each leg with two holes in each angle for screwing into the deck. Then take to to a marine apolstry shop, they can provide a seat and backrest. It might cost a couple of hundred more, but it will look good and not detract from your Whaler.
rich
conch posted 05-10-2015 02:46 PM ET (US)
If that is the seat you will use then S/S U-Bolts can be used mechanically fastened to counter sunk holes in the starboard which is then fastened to the deck as before.
1" Tube O.D. S/S U-Bolt Cushion Pipe Clamp
Item #: T9FB364874
Sold By: globalindustrial.co
Chuck
Plotman posted 05-10-2015 10:26 PM ET (US)
No, you don't want to use toggle bolts on a whaler.
FISHNFF posted 05-11-2015 12:53 AM ET (US)
Seat already purchased.
Not sure I'm gonna install.
I had this before it was stolen.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--deluxe-angler-series-swingback-seat-with-rod-holders--P018_540_004_510
Copy on the toggles bolts.
I have an idea. Match the half circle starboard, place on top of round seat base to match the bottom piece on the deck, and screw down the edges through both pieces into the deck.
Will keep you informed. Sorry not traditional or OEM.
FISHNFF
dfmcintyre posted 05-11-2015 04:31 AM ET (US)
Since removing the fuel tank cover and using a backing is not an option, I thought I'd try and describe another method that's been used in the past, if needing to attached hardware to a deck with no wood backing. It comes from the West Epoxy people:
Drill the hole through the composite, larger than needed. Use a nail bent 90 degrees, and attached to a portable drill. Feed the nail through the hole and turn on the drill at low speed. Shop vac out the debris.
What your trying to achieve is a large (though not very deep) void in the foam, under the laminate to spread the out the anchor point.
Regards - Don
PS - If you search in the West Epoxy website, I believe there's an article in their archives.
dfmcintyre posted 05-11-2015 04:51 AM ET (US)
Sorry - didn't finish before hitting the send key.
Pour slow setting epoxy into the void, flush to the deck surface. When cured, you have a larger epoxy plug to attach to.
I used a modification of this method. After using the method described earlier, I poured in the epoxy and placed a stainless steel barrel bolt ( http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Barrel-Bolt-WP73990/_/ N-/Ntt-barrel+bolts?nls=1&sst=subset&s_pp=false&picUrl=//static. grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5LY84_AS01?$smthumb$ )into the liquid and let the epoxy set, with about 1/4" of the barrel exposed.
Regards -Don
Mike Kub posted 05-11-2015 10:00 AM ET (US)
Twin pedestal seats were common on that boat from the factory and they were just screwed in.
. Unless the wood underneath is rotten nothing else is needed. When you get into working on that boat the quality of manufacture is amazing. Peace

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Author	Topic: Using a toggler anchor under deck 18 Outrage
FISHNFF	posted 05-04-2015 05:38 PM ET (US) I am still putting together my theft recovered 1988 18 Outrage. My aftermarket Todd Cooler seat with rod holders was tskrn, so I'm replacing my non-OEM seat with another non-OEM seat, this time a Wise SS framed swingback seat. The stem seat had 8 mounting screws through a flat poly base. A bunch of 5200. Solid. The new seat uses 1" SS pipe as a frame. Round stsinless on a whaler deck didn't seem like a good idea. Taking advice from a guy on another site using this same seat routed a 1/2" deep 1" diameter groove in 2 strips of Starboard to cradle the stainless tube seat legs. Great. Looks good. Problem. There are only 2 screws on each leg. Each leg is 16" in length, holes 12" apart. So that's 4 screws holding down the chair. Has anyone successfully used SS toggler bolts to securely throughbolt to the deck of an 18 Outrage? FISHNFF
dfmcintyre	posted 05-04-2015 06:23 PM ET (US) Are the legs situated so they will sit on the fuel tank cover? If so, I'd consider removing the cover and place an aluminum backing plate underneath. Regards - Don
FISHNFF	posted 05-10-2015 12:52 AM ET (US) Removing the tank cover is not really an option. I'm just concerned if 4 #10 wood screws fastened into the deck of my 1988 18 Outrage is adequate.
Binkster	posted 05-10-2015 12:25 PM ET (US) Is this the seat you are considering? ($500) http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=94564 if so, its not worthy of a Whaler and too expensive. The design is not bad, so print a pic. and take that and your cooler to a local T-top fabricator. Ask him to copy it using 2" polished aluminum pipe and weld 2 angles on each leg with two holes in each angle for screwing into the deck. Then take to to a marine apolstry shop, they can provide a seat and backrest. It might cost a couple of hundred more, but it will look good and not detract from your Whaler. rich
conch	posted 05-10-2015 02:46 PM ET (US) If that is the seat you will use then S/S U-Bolts can be used mechanically fastened to counter sunk holes in the starboard which is then fastened to the deck as before. 1" Tube O.D. S/S U-Bolt Cushion Pipe Clamp Item #: T9FB364874 Sold By: globalindustrial.co Chuck
Plotman	posted 05-10-2015 10:26 PM ET (US) No, you don't want to use toggle bolts on a whaler.
FISHNFF	posted 05-11-2015 12:53 AM ET (US) Seat already purchased. Not sure I'm gonna install. I had this before it was stolen. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--deluxe-angler-series-swingback-seat-with-rod-holders--P018_540_004_510 Copy on the toggles bolts. I have an idea. Match the half circle starboard, place on top of round seat base to match the bottom piece on the deck, and screw down the edges through both pieces into the deck. Will keep you informed. Sorry not traditional or OEM. FISHNFF
dfmcintyre	posted 05-11-2015 04:31 AM ET (US) Since removing the fuel tank cover and using a backing is not an option, I thought I'd try and describe another method that's been used in the past, if needing to attached hardware to a deck with no wood backing. It comes from the West Epoxy people: Drill the hole through the composite, larger than needed. Use a nail bent 90 degrees, and attached to a portable drill. Feed the nail through the hole and turn on the drill at low speed. Shop vac out the debris. What your trying to achieve is a large (though not very deep) void in the foam, under the laminate to spread the out the anchor point. Regards - Don PS - If you search in the West Epoxy website, I believe there's an article in their archives.
dfmcintyre	posted 05-11-2015 04:51 AM ET (US) Sorry - didn't finish before hitting the send key. Pour slow setting epoxy into the void, flush to the deck surface. When cured, you have a larger epoxy plug to attach to. I used a modification of this method. After using the method described earlier, I poured in the epoxy and placed a stainless steel barrel bolt ( http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Barrel-Bolt-WP73990/_/ N-/Ntt-barrel+bolts?nls=1&sst=subset&s_pp=false&picUrl=//static. grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5LY84_AS01?$smthumb$ )into the liquid and let the epoxy set, with about 1/4" of the barrel exposed. Regards -Don
Mike Kub	posted 05-11-2015 10:00 AM ET (US) Twin pedestal seats were common on that boat from the factory and they were just screwed in. . Unless the wood underneath is rotten nothing else is needed. When you get into working on that boat the quality of manufacture is amazing. Peace