1986 REVENGE W-T: Drain Plugs; Electronics; Transom Crack

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  1986 REVENGE W-T: Drain Plugs; Electronics; Transom Crack

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   1986 REVENGE W-T: Drain Plugs; Electronics; Transom Crack

maxmanta posted 06-01-2015 02:27 AM ET (US)
Hi, all. I'm the proud new owner of an 1986 Revenge Walk-Through. She's a beautiful boat and exactly what I was looking for after I sold my father's Egg Harbor. I want to thank everyone who posts here for their information on what to look for in a thirty-year-old boat!
I trailed it down to the shore yesterday, and Connecticu and Rhode Island get hit with the forecast of more than five days of rain! I should have waited, but the seller was nice enough to trail her to Niantic, Connecticut, which cut my trailing distance by 75-percent.
After it started to rain, I put a tarp over the electronics and open cockpit as best I could. But is there a danger with leaving the boat in the rain like that? I know boats are meant to get wet, but given the age of the boat, I'm worried about intrusion into the foam under the deck.
Also, there is a crack in the gel coat on the transom that exposes the wood underneath. I tapped on the transom when I bought her and everything seemed sound, so I was just planning on letting it dry and sealing it back up with gel coat. Also, part of the deck fiberglass (chop gun stuff) is exposed. It's covered now and I was planning on drying it and gel coating it. The electronics should be fine since they're advertised as waterproof.
Any advice on what to do is appreciated!
andygere posted 06-01-2015 11:59 AM ET (US)
On the trailer, leave the plugs in the stern sump(s) out, and use the trailer jack to elevate the bow enough that the water on the deck drains to the stern. One thing to check is the condition of the caulk in the floor seams. If it's in poor condition, it's time to remove it and redo the job. Not a lot of fun, but not that difficult either. Do a search here to find a number of threads on how to do it.
jimh posted 06-01-2015 01:00 PM ET (US)
When on the trailer, remove all the plugs from all the drains. For guidance in general configuration of the sump drains, see:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing
When a boat is stored outdoors on a trailer, a great deal of rainwater can accumulate in an open cockpit. Be sure to provide a path for it to drain out. Most drains are to the stern. Remove the cabin sump drain, too. But be sure to replace it before launching!
Do not depend on the waterproof rating of electronics to protect them from water intrusion in heavy rain. I make every effort to keep water away from all electrical and electronic devices.
The crack at the transom must be investigated. Immediately cover it with some good quality duct tape to prevent any more water intrusion. Do not use gel coat resin to make repairs. Gel coat resin is not intended to be a good structural adhesive. It is brittle. Use a resin designed for making repairs, such as WEST System Epoxy. Before filling any void in the wood of the transom, be certain it has dried completely. If there is wood rot, investigate other methods to prevent further wood rot before filling the void with resin.
To test the strength of the transom on an outboard engine boat, tilt the engine up to a 45-degree angle to the transom. Grab the skeg of the outboard, and apply upward and downward pressure. Look for any flexing or movement in the transom. If the engine can be moved without apply pressure to the transom, then the trim-tilt hydraulic system should be checked.
maxmanta posted 06-04-2015 12:55 AM ET (US)
Thanks everyone!
I've actually done those things. The "crack" in the transom is simply a large chip in the gelcoat.
What is the transom made from? Is it a single plywood board w/ gelcoat or is it a wood/glass laminate?
Jefecinco posted 06-04-2015 09:42 AM ET (US)
I don't believe a large chip in the gelcoat will reveal the wood in the laminate.
Ensure the transom is properly repaired before using the boat. Major damage can result from using a boat with a trasom problem.
jimh posted 06-04-2015 10:39 AM ET (US)
I have not personally participated in the lay-up of the hull laminate of a 1986 REVENGE of any size, but I believe that the structure at the transom of a typical c.1986 Boston Whaler boat will be as follows, beginning with the outermost layer:
--gel coat applied to about 0.020-inch thickness or perhaps more;
--fiberglass laminate layers, consisting of chopper-gun fibers and resin mixture, thickness unknown; layup schedule varying by the size of the boat and power rating at transom;
--fiberglass laminate layers, consisting of various types of fiberglass cloth and resin
--plywood transom reinforcement in area where engines will be mounted; thickness varying with the size of the boat and the power rating;
--additional laminate layers, covering and encapsulating the wood reinforcement at the transom; thickness and composition varying with the size of the boat and the power rating;
--high-density foam filling the interior space of the Unibond hull.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 1986 REVENGE W-T: Drain Plugs; Electronics; Transom Crack
maxmanta	posted 06-01-2015 02:27 AM ET (US) Hi, all. I'm the proud new owner of an 1986 Revenge Walk-Through. She's a beautiful boat and exactly what I was looking for after I sold my father's Egg Harbor. I want to thank everyone who posts here for their information on what to look for in a thirty-year-old boat! I trailed it down to the shore yesterday, and Connecticu and Rhode Island get hit with the forecast of more than five days of rain! I should have waited, but the seller was nice enough to trail her to Niantic, Connecticut, which cut my trailing distance by 75-percent. After it started to rain, I put a tarp over the electronics and open cockpit as best I could. But is there a danger with leaving the boat in the rain like that? I know boats are meant to get wet, but given the age of the boat, I'm worried about intrusion into the foam under the deck. Also, there is a crack in the gel coat on the transom that exposes the wood underneath. I tapped on the transom when I bought her and everything seemed sound, so I was just planning on letting it dry and sealing it back up with gel coat. Also, part of the deck fiberglass (chop gun stuff) is exposed. It's covered now and I was planning on drying it and gel coating it. The electronics should be fine since they're advertised as waterproof. Any advice on what to do is appreciated!
andygere	posted 06-01-2015 11:59 AM ET (US) On the trailer, leave the plugs in the stern sump(s) out, and use the trailer jack to elevate the bow enough that the water on the deck drains to the stern. One thing to check is the condition of the caulk in the floor seams. If it's in poor condition, it's time to remove it and redo the job. Not a lot of fun, but not that difficult either. Do a search here to find a number of threads on how to do it.
jimh	posted 06-01-2015 01:00 PM ET (US) When on the trailer, remove all the plugs from all the drains. For guidance in general configuration of the sump drains, see: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/manual18-25/operations. html#selfBailing When a boat is stored outdoors on a trailer, a great deal of rainwater can accumulate in an open cockpit. Be sure to provide a path for it to drain out. Most drains are to the stern. Remove the cabin sump drain, too. But be sure to replace it before launching! Do not depend on the waterproof rating of electronics to protect them from water intrusion in heavy rain. I make every effort to keep water away from all electrical and electronic devices. The crack at the transom must be investigated. Immediately cover it with some good quality duct tape to prevent any more water intrusion. Do not use gel coat resin to make repairs. Gel coat resin is not intended to be a good structural adhesive. It is brittle. Use a resin designed for making repairs, such as WEST System Epoxy. Before filling any void in the wood of the transom, be certain it has dried completely. If there is wood rot, investigate other methods to prevent further wood rot before filling the void with resin. To test the strength of the transom on an outboard engine boat, tilt the engine up to a 45-degree angle to the transom. Grab the skeg of the outboard, and apply upward and downward pressure. Look for any flexing or movement in the transom. If the engine can be moved without apply pressure to the transom, then the trim-tilt hydraulic system should be checked.
maxmanta	posted 06-04-2015 12:55 AM ET (US) Thanks everyone! I've actually done those things. The "crack" in the transom is simply a large chip in the gelcoat. What is the transom made from? Is it a single plywood board w/ gelcoat or is it a wood/glass laminate?
Jefecinco	posted 06-04-2015 09:42 AM ET (US) I don't believe a large chip in the gelcoat will reveal the wood in the laminate. Ensure the transom is properly repaired before using the boat. Major damage can result from using a boat with a trasom problem.
jimh	posted 06-04-2015 10:39 AM ET (US) I have not personally participated in the lay-up of the hull laminate of a 1986 REVENGE of any size, but I believe that the structure at the transom of a typical c.1986 Boston Whaler boat will be as follows, beginning with the outermost layer: --gel coat applied to about 0.020-inch thickness or perhaps more; --fiberglass laminate layers, consisting of chopper-gun fibers and resin mixture, thickness unknown; layup schedule varying by the size of the boat and power rating at transom; --fiberglass laminate layers, consisting of various types of fiberglass cloth and resin --plywood transom reinforcement in area where engines will be mounted; thickness varying with the size of the boat and the power rating; --additional laminate layers, covering and encapsulating the wood reinforcement at the transom; thickness and composition varying with the size of the boat and the power rating; --high-density foam filling the interior space of the Unibond hull.