2008 Mercury 30-HP Tilt-Trim Pin Corrosion - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
  2008 Mercury 30-HP Tilt-Trim Pin Corrosion

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   2008 Mercury 30-HP Tilt-Trim Pin Corrosion

Jefecinco posted 06-11-2015 10:10 AM ET (US)
The Mercury 30-HP F30ELPT outboard made in June 2008 on our Sport 13 has a badly corroded pin that requires replacement. The pin is located at the bottom of the Trim-Tilt just above the sacrificial anode. The diameter is approximately one half inch.
I was disappointed to see the degree of corrosion and the pin is obviously made of mild steel. I want to replace it with a Mercury stainless steel pin to avoid future problems.
I would appreciate any advice you can give me on the Mercury part number of the stainless steel version of the pin and any precautions to take when driving the old pin out.
Thanks in advance.
Butch

Jefecinco posted 06-11-2015 01:41 PM ET (US)
I got a part number for the pin from Marine Max, 17-851874006. They were unable to tell me if the part is stainless steel despite a call to Mercury Marine. Mercury said it's a vendor sourced part and they are unable to tell if it is stainless or mild steel.
So, now it's off to Google.
Butch
Jefecinco posted 06-11-2015 06:09 PM ET (US)
I queried Mercury Marine's help line this afternoon. I got a quick response that the replacement pin is not stainless but has a "coating." Good to know but not helpful.
If I'm unable to find a source for a stainless pin I'll have to have one fabricated. If the diameter is a stock size it shouldn't be too costly. It will only need two reliefs cut near the ends for the snap rings and the cut or two for the ends followed by a polishing.
I know a fellow who works in stainless who can do the work. I'm thinking 316 should do well.
I'm wondering if the T-T wear surface has a bushing. I guess and hope not as there is very little pressure involved.
Again, I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this job. In a perfect world the only tools required would be snap ring pliers, a drift pin, a mallet and a piece of wood.
Butch
Jefecinco posted 06-13-2015 04:59 PM ET (US)
I like Mercury Marine outboards. They are not always my first choice but I have two now due to them being on the transoms of boats I purchased.
The fact that Mercury uses a mild steel pin on a part of an engine which is subject to spending a lot of time submerged in sea water indicates Mercury is not always thoughtful in its designs.
Perhaps the mild steel pin is the reason they attach a rather large sacrificial anode along the length of the pin about a half inch below it. Admittedly that anode on my engine is wasting and should be replaced. The anode is perhaps 25-percent wasted.
I've decided to replace the pin with a mild steel Mercury replacement and replace the anode at the same time. I'll keep a closer watch on the new pin and anode than I have done in the past.
If a new anode fails to to protect the pin I'll have a replacement fabricated out of 316 stainless steel.
If you have a similar engine keep a close watch on the pin.
Butch

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 2008 Mercury 30-HP Tilt-Trim Pin Corrosion
Jefecinco	posted 06-11-2015 10:10 AM ET (US) The Mercury 30-HP F30ELPT outboard made in June 2008 on our Sport 13 has a badly corroded pin that requires replacement. The pin is located at the bottom of the Trim-Tilt just above the sacrificial anode. The diameter is approximately one half inch. I was disappointed to see the degree of corrosion and the pin is obviously made of mild steel. I want to replace it with a Mercury stainless steel pin to avoid future problems. I would appreciate any advice you can give me on the Mercury part number of the stainless steel version of the pin and any precautions to take when driving the old pin out. Thanks in advance. Butch
Jefecinco	posted 06-11-2015 01:41 PM ET (US) I got a part number for the pin from Marine Max, 17-851874006. They were unable to tell me if the part is stainless steel despite a call to Mercury Marine. Mercury said it's a vendor sourced part and they are unable to tell if it is stainless or mild steel. So, now it's off to Google. Butch
Jefecinco	posted 06-11-2015 06:09 PM ET (US) I queried Mercury Marine's help line this afternoon. I got a quick response that the replacement pin is not stainless but has a "coating." Good to know but not helpful. If I'm unable to find a source for a stainless pin I'll have to have one fabricated. If the diameter is a stock size it shouldn't be too costly. It will only need two reliefs cut near the ends for the snap rings and the cut or two for the ends followed by a polishing. I know a fellow who works in stainless who can do the work. I'm thinking 316 should do well. I'm wondering if the T-T wear surface has a bushing. I guess and hope not as there is very little pressure involved. Again, I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done this job. In a perfect world the only tools required would be snap ring pliers, a drift pin, a mallet and a piece of wood. Butch
Jefecinco	posted 06-13-2015 04:59 PM ET (US) I like Mercury Marine outboards. They are not always my first choice but I have two now due to them being on the transoms of boats I purchased. The fact that Mercury uses a mild steel pin on a part of an engine which is subject to spending a lot of time submerged in sea water indicates Mercury is not always thoughtful in its designs. Perhaps the mild steel pin is the reason they attach a rather large sacrificial anode along the length of the pin about a half inch below it. Admittedly that anode on my engine is wasting and should be replaced. The anode is perhaps 25-percent wasted. I've decided to replace the pin with a mild steel Mercury replacement and replace the anode at the same time. I'll keep a closer watch on the new pin and anode than I have done in the past. If a new anode fails to to protect the pin I'll have a replacement fabricated out of 316 stainless steel. If you have a similar engine keep a close watch on the pin. Butch