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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
1985 Challenger 25 Makeover
|Author||Topic: 1985 Challenger 25 Makeover|
posted 06-30-2015 08:42 PM ET (US)
The old girl is in the yard! I'll post more as we make progress!
posted 07-02-2015 12:36 AM ET (US)
You have a lot of work ahead, but, at the end, a great boat will result.
posted 07-02-2015 08:12 AM ET (US)
What is the restoration plan?
posted 07-02-2015 01:54 PM ET (US)
Love those Challengers.
I ran across this rebuild recently. While I not a fan of line-x on a classic, it looks great on the commercial hull.
posted 07-03-2015 05:53 PM ET (US)
1) Address the old gelcoat cracks in the hull sides. The park service ranger said they happened when the boat was left in water one season and the lake froze. These vertical cracks run up the side near the whaler logos. They never got any worse so I just used the boat as-is until now.
Process: grind out the cracks, epoxy fill, sand and prime with interlux 2000. (Boatyard item) just as a note, the gelcoat is very thick [too think], much like cake frosting, and I think that contributed to these vertical cracks. My Outrage's gelcoat seems paper thin and flexible as to compared to the Challenger.
2) Paint hull with AWLGRIP Medium Gray a match for the current commercial Boston Whaler gray color
3) Remove all hardware from the cabin (hatches, windows, lights, etc.), prep-sand, and prime. Corroded areas will be sanded to bare metal and addressed. Cabin top will be painted light gray and is a similar paint scheme to the USCG Transportable Port Security Boat (TPSB) that is built on a 25' Guardian. The forward handrail will remain flat black.
4) Replace non-skid surface with something.
5) Repair rotten tank cover hatch
6) Add 5-inch transom extension to allow for counter rotation motors and to reduce sea water splash over in engine well. (Old ones were 20" models).
7) Install twin 200 E-TEC engines.
8) Re-wire everything.
9) Redesign gauge setup
10) Rename to "Katmai Challenger"
11) Place a placard in the cabin with her NPS history and original name.
I am sure I will find more items but this is a good starting list.
posted 07-04-2015 02:34 AM ET (US)
Picture Series 1
Starboard epoxy and topside preparations. That thirty year old 3M non-skid is nasty to remove.
posted 07-04-2015 07:20 AM ET (US)
Your observation of thicker than normal gel coat is interesting. I think it is typical that cracks in gel coat tend to develop in the areas where the gel coat layer is thickest.
Regarding the recommended shaft length for a Whaler Drive: I believe that a Whaler Drive is already set-up for 25-inch shaft length twin engines.
posted 07-04-2015 01:12 PM ET (US)
This one is a notched transom model and had a pair of 20" 200HP Evinrude "vindicator" bass boat motors.
I have seen newer ones set up for a pair of 25" motors from the factory. Of course a Whaler Drive would be cooler.
posted 07-07-2015 08:00 PM ET (US)
5 inch transom extension.
posted 07-10-2015 11:07 PM ET (US)
Time to add motors!
Sorry if this feels like watching family vacation photos.
posted 07-11-2015 12:33 AM ET (US)
Pete--this is really cool to watch take place. I like those Challengers. The Challenger will perform like a sports car with the twin 200 HO's.
I think the transom extension you have come up with will prove to be a very economicall solution for you.
I look forward to seeing the progress of your project.
posted 07-11-2015 09:25 AM ET (US)
Wow--you are not wasting any time on this project. I was thinking we'd be reading about this for two years. Ha! More like two weeks. You work fast.
posted 07-11-2015 09:42 AM ET (US)
From your plan steps (listed above), I see the next step is "re-wire everything." I think that is going to take at least a day or two, even at the rate you are working on this.
posted 07-11-2015 10:44 AM ET (US)
Man, you are moving alone fast!
Looking at the motors, you
posted 07-11-2015 11:18 AM ET (US)
Yes, the motors are a bit low. I let it go for now, I'll have a closer look after I get the batteries hooked up and can level them out. Is there a rear shot of a notched transom somewhere? My guess is that the cavitation plate on the outboard side should be just above the hull plane.
Yes, rewiring is going to take a while but is my favorite part of the project and will be done after work, evenings.
As for delays, if I need a new tank the lead time is 4-6 weeks.
For props my thought too was four blades. Revolution 4s was what I settled on (no idea on the pitch yet). I have a pair of OMC 4 blades that came with the motors. There are 21 pitch and that seemed steep to me, I'll use them for a base line run.
Thanks for the support...
posted 07-12-2015 11:47 AM ET (US)
I never had good use for these lights. The cavity was dry but the ring that support ball was corroded and split.
Looks like $350 on eBay!
posted 07-18-2015 07:45 PM ET (US)
Looking much better...
posted 08-08-2015 11:47 AM ET (US)
Pictures were taken a dusk, I'll post more after my next visit.
posted 08-08-2015 11:48 AM ET (US)
..."taken at dusk..."
posted 08-09-2015 12:58 AM ET (US)
posted 08-09-2015 07:23 AM ET (US)
Great pictures. In your photos I see a rolling engine cart holding both engines at once. That is new to me.
Good luck with your re power.
posted 08-09-2015 11:25 AM ET (US)
Chuck -- I too had not seen one like that before, the guy specializes in government surplus and always has two or three going at once. I am not sure what the benefit is of having a dual setup is other than cost savings on materials. I recall he fabricated it himself and it was heavy duty.
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