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Author Topic:   1999 CONQUEST 23 Windlass
csj posted 07-06-2015 10:39 PM ET (US)   Profile for csj   Send Email to csj  
I have a 1999 CONQUEST 23 with the factory windlass setup. My son just informed me that he was attempting to anchor (for the fireworks) and the unit would not push line out "down" but will bring line in "up". Any ideas of the cause? Chris
jimh posted 07-07-2015 11:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Do you mean to describe the behavior of the windlass as not moving at all when the electrical button marked DOWN for control of the windlass is operated?
csj posted 07-11-2015 10:09 PM ET (US)     Profile for csj  Send Email to csj     
yes, when I hit the toggle downward for releasing the line, nothing happens. Upward it reels the line in fine. ?? Help
martyn1075 posted 07-12-2015 02:43 AM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
If it's no the motor it could be the solenoid.
RevengeFamily posted 07-12-2015 05:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
First thing I would inspect is the control switch at the helm station... Marine environments cause all sorts of corrosion on exposed wire connections...

If after accessing the switch it looks green and corroded, I would remove the wires one at a time, clean the wire mounting posts and the terminal ends on the wires with a "Dremel" tool... Reinstall them with electrical anti oxidation grease... While the wires are removed, I would use an ohm meter to compare the electrical resistance through the switch...

Since the "up" direction runs the windlass motor, I would test that portion of the switch first... Then check the resistance in the "down" portion of the switch... Compare the readings, they should be very similar... My experience is you most likely have a corroded connection on the "down" side of your switch...

Norm

csj posted 07-12-2015 10:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for csj  Send Email to csj     
Folks, although I've owned several whalers and currently have 2, I'm not real proficient with checking ohms etc. With that said, I observed 2 back wires and 2 red. I'm thinking I can switch the black wires, and if the windlass push line out and not in I'll know if its the switch ?. On a 2nd note, someone mentioned the motor and solenoid, yet if it pull line, would that not eliminate that line of thinking ??
martyn1075 posted 07-13-2015 02:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
quote:
On a 2nd note, someone mentioned the motor and solenoid, yet if it pull line, would that not eliminate that line of thinking ??


Yes I did, you should put a meter on the winch to see if there's power to the relays and from the relay to the motor. If there is power to the motor, you may need a motor. If you have the switch on and there's no power, you need relays.

If there's no power even to the relays, you have a wiring or breaker problem.

Probably a relay (control Box) the relay itself or just the relay. Maybe just bad connection but to really know you still need to test power with a meter.
The first thing to check is if a wire is simply loose or pulled off the control box.

RevengeFamily posted 07-13-2015 07:34 AM ET (US)     Profile for RevengeFamily  Send Email to RevengeFamily     
Chris,

If your windless runs in the down direction, your problem is not the motor...

And your problem is obviously not the circut breaker because the motor runs in the up direction...

The problem is lack of current flow for the "down" direction...

Either the electrical current is not flowing through the switch, or if it is flowing through the switch, is not enough to power the motor... (to much resistance from corrosion) or it's not getting to the motor at all...

The reason I mentioned reading the "ohms" (which is an electrical measure of resistance) is because windlass motors draw a great deal of electrical current... You could test the continuity of the switch with a 12 volt test light and the test light may light up which would tell you the switch is good... But the problem is, you only lit the tiny light bulb on the tester... For the windlass motor to perform the work you're asking it to do, it requires 40-50 amps or more depending on the motor size... The switch, wire connection or even the inner core of the wire could be corroded which impairs the flow of electrical current to the motor...

Clean all your connections and you'll most likely solve your dilemma...

Good luck, Norm

martyn1075 posted 07-13-2015 11:42 AM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
Maybe we could get more info on the windlass brand what kind of windlass. Is it a Good?

They have know problems for their relays and connections (control box) If you are lucky it could be just that a loose connection or bad corroded connection. If not then further testing such as a meter ohms and test the current to the connection including the motor.

If all is good the windlass needs to be serviced and perhaps rebuilt.

I believe your particular issue has to do with the control box depending on which kind you have they are operated by an up and down switch. In that case you have two different solenoids to make that process operate. You have mentioned its just the the down that works. One could be dirty, corroded or even loose or pulled off.

Motor would be the worse case and I agree it probably isn't but by going through the systems in place one by one you can start ruling out the problems.

martyn1075 posted 07-13-2015 11:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for martyn1075  Send Email to martyn1075     
Sorry you had mentioned the up that works not the down, which I had mentioned in my last post. Either way the advise works the same as we are talking about a wire and solenoid.

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