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ContinuousWave: Whaler Repairs/Mods
MONTAUK 17 Electric Trolling motor
|Author||Topic: MONTAUK 17 Electric Trolling motor|
posted 07-07-2015 03:31 PM ET (US)
I have a [1988 Boston Whaler MONTAUK 17] which, when I bought it, had a trolling motor removed from the front deck. I now would like to install another [trolling motor]. What size saltwater motor should I look for? I do not fish in any strong current and would only be using it for three hours at a time. My friends say I should go with a Minn Kota 12-Volt. Where does one normally place the battery? Thanks. Opinions please.
posted 07-09-2015 03:17 AM ET (US)
Electric trolling motors draw high current from the battery. To minimize voltage drop in the electrical conductors between the battery and the electric trolling motor, mount the battery as close to the electric trolling motor as it can be, giving consideration to the weight distribution on the boat, exposure to weather, and other non-electrical considerations.
posted 07-09-2015 10:58 AM ET (US)
I'm going to try and put my trolling battery in my anchor locker. I'll have to build some sort of bracket to hold it in there. Mine is a '75 hull so it's got the older locker design which is too small for my anchor anyway.
You can put the battery as far away as you like but the longer the cable run is the heavier gauge cable you'll have to use to maintain acceptable voltage drop. At today's copper prices that can get expensive fast, especially if you're buying tinned marine grade cable, which I would highly recommend for salt water use.
Here's a handy dandy voltage drop calculator which will tell you the minimum conductor size to use based on your voltage, current, run length, and maximum allowable voltage drop. Plenty of others out there if you google "voltage drop calculator" http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm
posted 07-11-2015 03:46 PM ET (US)
I have a Montauk 170 which varies somewhat from yours in dimensions, but some of my observations may apply. I put the deep cycle battery in a plastic battery box in the anchor locker. Minn Kota makes a breaker that can be mounted to the side of the battery box for safety in the circuit. The anchor locker is close enough to the location of a bow mount mount trolling motor that you may not need any extra cable. You will have to decide on electrical connectors. Some sort of polarized plug will let you remove the trolling motor for security, or when driving on rough roads. I just used Minn Kota's smallest V2 Powerdrive trolling motor. I chose it mostly because it would fold under the front railing of the boat. It seems like the motor hasenough thrust for my use. On large windswept lakes or on rivers you might want more. Dave
posted 07-16-2015 10:40 PM ET (US)
Do you have a pic of how your Minn Kota is mounted in the bow area? I have a 150 and am struggling figure out how to add one because of the bow rail.
posted 07-20-2015 11:53 PM ET (US)
Sorry, I've been out of touch. I will try to post to a website rather than just email. Hopefully tomorrow. Dave
posted 07-24-2015 09:08 AM ET (US)
I would like to see the pics also as I am soon going to install a mk trolling motor on the bow of a 2007 Montauk 170. I called the factory support group and they recommended drilling and tapping for 1/4-20 screws into the bow 1/2" phenolic under the front deck fiberglass to mount the quick disconnect mount.
The 2007 hull does not have the open space under the front deck and does not have a rigging tube that extends from back to front. The 2008 models started these features(according to the support rep).
Any help would be appreciated!
/aksi, if anyone has the pics from Nauti Tauk installation, I would appreciate seeing them.
posted 07-26-2015 11:10 PM ET (US)
Here are some photos of my trolling motor installation. Sorry it took so long, and I'm sure your boats are cleaner. Note that the battery will fit well in the anchor locker of a Montauk 170. Do some shopping for battery boxes as they are not all the same. I think this one came from NAPA and was a bit shorter than those from other sources. The lid will close with a bit of clearance. I did not put hardware in the anchor locker to hold down the battery. If you boat in really rough water, that might not be wise. Note that this battery just feeds up to the trolling motor, and is not connected to the boat's electrical system. I like that, but it means that I have to connect a battery charger after each trip. There is no built in battery charger/maintainer in this set up.
The motor mount came from Minn Kota. I think they also have metal mount. This one looks nice with the boat, and has no sharp edges when the trolling motor is removed. I used Starboard with an anti-skid finish for the mounting pad. The finish is a close match to the anti-skid on the boat. Note that this stuff is very hard to fasten with glues, so you are depending on the mechanical fasteners used in the installation. When I drilled the boat there was some plywood evident in the drilled out fragments, but there did not seem to be anything that looked like phenolic. I would be happy to respond to questions. Dave
http://s691.photobucket.com/user/davidtollefson/media/ P1080969_zpsgoulffkr.jpg.html?filters[user]=93776292&filters[recent]=1& sort=1&o=0
posted 08-04-2015 11:19 PM ET (US)
Thanks for posting your pics. Your installation looks great!
posted 08-09-2015 03:33 AM ET (US)
I would suggest a minimum of #55 thrust, which still keeps you on a 12v system. current, you will often wish for more if you want precise boat control.
If you are just drifting the flats and want some steerage or repositioning, 55 will be fine. If you want to hold against a current, and add in some wind, a 24v 70 or 80 may be in order. A bass boat will hold better than a Montauk under those conditions, and the guys here fishing the California Delta opt for the 36v #101!
Always get the Maximizer/DuraAmp built in to maximize battery life.
Mount the motor on the starboard to counteract the list due to motor motor/propellor torque.
I had a #55 Motorguide on my 1998 17 Alert/Montauk and I thought it adequate, but sometimes a bit lacking.
I now have an #80 on the transom of my 18 Outrage for shallow water maneuvering and a #70 on my 15 Striper.
Minn Kota all the way. Motorguide used to the tops..IMHO
I usually had an anchor or 2 ( 1 with no chain and plastic coated hardware to silently anchor shallow) in the bow locker with a drift sock, so the battery went under a small front deck I fabricated.
posted 08-11-2015 01:00 PM ET (US)
I've used my old Die Hard "2.1HP" trolling motor on my 1996 Montauk several times. It was bought at Sears years ago, made by Minn Kota. It's s great motor and is fine when there's no wind, moves the boat at a few mph. But if you're in strong wind it's not enough, barely moving the boat at all against the wind. I'm not sure what 2.1hp translates to in lb thrust, but it's no where near equivalent to the 2.3 hp Honda gas outboard I've compared it to, so I think they pulled the 2.1 number from some sales persons backside. Anyway, my point is I would recommend something larger than 2.1hp. ;)
posted 08-18-2015 07:33 PM ET (US)
I am the owner of Brian's old Alert/Montauk. Here is a picture of it with the 55# Motorguide:
This picture was taken by me, the day I took possesion of the boat from Brian, and drove it back to Santa Barbara. I see that the motor is on the port side, not starboard as Brian recommneded. In any event, I have nothing to report about it other than the nice stout mount, as I have never used the trolling motor... But I plan to. I have moved the boat out to Lake Mead, where I will use it for lake fish (bass, striper, crappie, etc...) and the trolling motor will come in handy there. I feel like the troller will be fine for me in the lake, as I like to fish nearly dead-calm, shallow coves.
Hi Brian. :)
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