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Author Topic:   E-TEC 90-HP Tilt Switch Replacement
Ducktown posted 07-08-2015 07:06 PM ET (US)   Profile for Ducktown   Send Email to Ducktown  
The depth finder transducer on my Montauk loves to spray salt water on the port side of my motor when traveling at high speed. Consequently, the tilt switch on [the Evinrude E-TEC 90-HP engine cowling] has rusted, become shorted, and has broken. I've ordered the parts I need from BRP. I hope there might be someone out there who has replaced [a cowling-mounted trim switch] before who might provide verbal assistance or at least a good story. Thanks.
jimh posted 07-09-2015 02:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
To replace the cowling-mounted trim-tilt switch on an Evinrude E-TEC 90-HP you have to install the switch onto the lower cowling pan from the exterior of the cowling pan. This means the three-pole Amp SealTite connector cannot be installed onto the conductors of the cable because it is too large to pass through the hole in the cowling.

After you pass the wire cable through the hole in the cowling and tighten the retaining nut on the switch body, you then assemble the three wires of the cable into the connector body. The connectors load into the connector body from the rear. No special tool is required to install them. The connector contacts latch into position in the connector body. Be sure not to install the connectors contacts into the connector body until after you mount the switch and have run the wires through the hole.

Be sure to get the seals and the anti-back-out fitting in position

The old switch assembly will serve as a guide for the positions of the individual color coded wires into the connector body.

Once the connector contacts are latched into place in the connector body, you can remove them, but a special tool helps to perform that operation.

Ducktown posted 07-09-2015 07:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ducktown  Send Email to Ducktown     
Jim - Thanks a million!
Ducktown posted 07-09-2015 07:21 AM ET (US)     Profile for Ducktown  Send Email to Ducktown     
Jim - Thanks a million!
ratherwhalering posted 07-09-2015 03:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Thanks Jim, very timely, I'm having the same problem.
jimh posted 07-09-2015 05:01 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
If your E-TEC engine has white cowling, get some white duct tape. Make some sort of a spray deflector to keep the spray off the switch. Or, fix the SONAR transducer so it does not throw so much spray. Or install a fixed spray shield on the transom to deflect that spray. Or douse the switch periodically with WD40.
ratherwhalering posted 07-09-2015 07:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
In my case, I believe it is just a faulty switch. No spray, and I religiously wash and flush. It either works, or there is a complete power loss at start-up. It does not occur during operation. Occasionally If I shut the motor off, there is no ignition, no control box trim, no engine trim. I bang on the engine tilt/trim switch, and poof, everything works perfectly.. This has been only been occurring for the last few hours of operation.
jimh posted 07-09-2015 11:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
quote:
If I shut the motor off, there is no ignition, no control box trim, no engine trim. I bang on the engine tilt/trim switch, and poof, everything works perfectly.

As far as I can see, the cowling-mounted trim switch and the remote control-mounted trim switch are wired in parallel. A problem with one of them should not affect the other. Banging on the cowling-mounted switch might just be giving some jarring to the real culprit: a bad relay.

Also in the trim circuit on an E-TEC is the trim limit switch. That switch is in the UP circuit, and it acts to limit the up travel. If the trim limit switch is bad you can still trim down.

If you can't trim up or down, from either the cowling or the remote switch, the problem is either in the power being supplied to the circuit, or in the relays, or in the trim motor itself.

jimh posted 07-09-2015 11:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Oh, wait, "no ignition" means no power from the engine to the ignition key switch. Something is wrong in the circuit. Maybe the fuse holder is loose. That circuit comes off the big terminal post where the battery red positive lead connects to the power-source side of the starter solenoid. There are several ring terminals stacked up there. Check that the connection is tight.
ratherwhalering posted 07-10-2015 12:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for ratherwhalering  Send Email to ratherwhalering     
Thanks Jim, that makes a ton of sense, I will check it this afternoon!
Ducktown posted 07-12-2015 02:45 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ducktown  Send Email to Ducktown     
Replaced the switch today. The old one literally fell into pieces as I removed it revealing rust, corrosion, etc. New one went in quickly. Thanks Jim, for the tip about threading the wires through the hole before attaching the connector. No doubt I would have messed that up.

Prior to re-attaching the engine cover, I decided to test the new switch. You guessed it: t went down just fine, but not up. I believe I'm in upper-limit-hell now. The motor goes up using the switch on the throttle, but not on the new engine mounted switch.

I've read a bit about the circuits, bad relays and such. But replacing this switch was about the most adventurous I'm going to get as far as electrical repairs Is there something that I can easily do to fix this problem. Perhaps it is a blown fuse?

Ducktown posted 07-15-2015 10:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ducktown  Send Email to Ducktown     
Just checking back to see if anyone has advice on the upper limit switch and relay circuit I'm facing. Thanks.
jimh posted 07-17-2015 10:14 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The trim switches on the cowling and the remote throttle are in parallel. If the UP switch works on the remote throttle, then there cannot be a problem in other circuit elements like the relay or the limit switch that would explain why the cowling mounted UP switch does not work.

The most reasonable cause for the cowling-mounted UP switch to not work, now that you have installed a new switch, is there is a defect in the circuit connector that brings the circuit to the switch. Check the mate to the connector on the new switch. Look closely at the socket associated with the BLUE wire. It may not by making proper contact with the pin on the switch's connector.

Ducktown posted 07-20-2015 06:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Ducktown  Send Email to Ducktown     
The blue wire! I'm on it. Thanks again.

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