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Author Topic:   1977 Evinrude 70-HP Low Full-throttle RPM

Redmanf1 posted 07-20-2015 06:56 PM ET (US)
I just purchased a 1978 Boston Whaler 17 Montauk with a 1977 Evinrude 70-HP engine. The person I purchased it from spent $2,000 on the engine A few of the things: rectifier, power pack, rebuilt power head with timer, one new carburetor, water pump, timer base, many gaskets, seals and rings. [Without a tachometer] I am saying at low RPM it runs nicely, but it just will not get in the upper engine speed range. I just checked cylinder pressure and it is 90-PSI. There is no propeller hub slip. THe propleerl is new and is 13.75 x 15. It is a fresh water boat and engine.
To me it sounds like full throttle is about 3,500-RPM. It seems crazy. The motor starts, idles, changes fwd-rev and does not die. When you start out It throttles nicely and it tries to go but it just cannot get to its upper rpm. Three rebuild kits were used for the carburetors, then, at a latter date when the power head was rebuilt, a new carburetor was purchased.
When I pulled the plugs the middle and lower plugs looked a little darker. Thanks again for any help.
Propeller info: Michigan Wheel P/N 992103, Vortex XHS Aluminum; diameter: 13-3/4; pitch: 15; three-blade, right hand.
I did the compression test, and, yes it was cold; all three cylinders are at 90-PSI with a Mac tester. The engine also has a new starter. So much has been done. I do not want to end up throwing good money after bad. [The boat] is nice enough to repower. I do not want to spend $9,000 on a new outboard. I would look for a nice used four-cycle-power-stroke, a 90-HP to 115-HP.
From my understanding the mechanic was trying to fix this problem. There is a second receipt [for repair to the engine] that has good compression with carburtor rebuild; this was four months before the rebuild. The last receipt has the new carb listed.
The boat weight was good. I checked the compression myself. I just checked the spark with a tester and it will jump 5/8-inch, which is strong spark
The engine starts easily, seems to run okay. but at full throttle it does not have the power to plane off the boat. Any help as what to look for would be appreciated.

Jefecinco posted 07-20-2015 07:22 PM ET (US)
Seventy horsepower seems a little low to me. I recommend you consider the engine mounting height on the transom and a stainless steel four-blade propeller.
There are many here who will be able to recommend some changes which will be helpful.
It would be very useful to post your engine mounting information. Without knowing the RPM your engine is turning it is very difficult for the gurus on the forum to make recommendations to help your performance. You need to find a way to provide the RPM.
Butch
contender posted 07-20-2015 10:40 PM ET (US)
sounds like you have a fuel problem, I would go through the carburetors again and check fuel lines and the bulb (do the easy stuff 1st) If you are getting good compression on all 3 cyl. has to be something simple.
jimh posted 07-20-2015 11:30 PM ET (US)
A simple first step in diagnosis: check for spark on all three cylinders. You might be running just on two of them. Use an in-line spark tester.
Redmanf1 posted 07-21-2015 04:36 AM ET (US)
I did the the compression check as above and the spark test on all cylinders. All ready checked the fuel line and bulb. A couple of videos, the first one I was able to get on plane, the second one it would not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IDf02IYXD4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFWO0_jpGdg
jimh posted 07-21-2015 07:21 AM ET (US)
Get a tachometer and measure the actual RPM. Your reports of engine speed all seem to be measuring engine speed by ear.
jimh posted 07-21-2015 08:05 AM ET (US)
In the recording seen at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFWO0_jpGdg
I agree with your aural interpretation of the engine speed. The engine is not running at the normal full-throttle speed range.
Try pumping the primer bulb to help move fuel to the engine at full throttle. If this improves the engine speed, a problem in the fuel system is indicated.
jimh posted 07-21-2015 08:09 AM ET (US)
Is there any indication that the onset of this problem is related to engine temperature? Many electronic components can react to higher temperature.
You report that the Power Pack, which provides the spark ignition primary voltage to the spark coils--was already replaced. Have you checked the spark coils? A spark coil might have developed a fault. The spark voltage may be jumping to ground instead of getting to the spark plug. Try running the engine in the dark with the cowling removed. You may see evidence of the spark voltage jumping to ground somewhere.
dg22 posted 07-21-2015 10:11 AM ET (US)
You could test your fuel pump if you have a fuel pressure gauge or have a marina test it for you. Possibly the fuel pump is not reaching the PSI needed at the higher rpm.
I just ordered a fuel pump for my 1973 50hp Evinrude. They are $114 in Canada but I've seen them online in the US for $79. I ordered mine via the BRP website.
contender posted 07-21-2015 11:28 AM ET (US)
just because your fuel line is not leaking does not mean its working, use only a factory fuel bulb, and on engines this old you may have an enthanol problem eating the rubber inside the fuel line and other places...Like I said if you have good compression and spark you need to got throught your fuel system/carbs...start with the easy stuff....good luck
Sherman Mohnike posted 07-21-2015 03:35 PM ET (US)
You should do a vacuum check on the fuel system. Many time over the last 40 years with my whaler I had a air leak into the fuel line that caused the symptoms you talk about.
tedious posted 07-21-2015 08:04 PM ET (US)
From your description it is not clear whether the motor was ever working properly since the work was done on it. Can you clarify?
First diagnostic step for these motors is always a "link and sync" - the process of aligning the carb openings and timing advance. If your mechanic does not know what that is, find another mechanic.
Another common oops that can cause that symptom is a piece of lint or something in the high speed circuit of one of the carbs. They may have ruled that out with the second carb rebuild.

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Author	Topic: 1977 Evinrude 70-HP Low Full-throttle RPM
Redmanf1	posted 07-20-2015 06:56 PM ET (US) I just purchased a 1978 Boston Whaler 17 Montauk with a 1977 Evinrude 70-HP engine. The person I purchased it from spent $2,000 on the engine A few of the things: rectifier, power pack, rebuilt power head with timer, one new carburetor, water pump, timer base, many gaskets, seals and rings. [Without a tachometer] I am saying at low RPM it runs nicely, but it just will not get in the upper engine speed range. I just checked cylinder pressure and it is 90-PSI. There is no propeller hub slip. THe propleerl is new and is 13.75 x 15. It is a fresh water boat and engine. To me it sounds like full throttle is about 3,500-RPM. It seems crazy. The motor starts, idles, changes fwd-rev and does not die. When you start out It throttles nicely and it tries to go but it just cannot get to its upper rpm. Three rebuild kits were used for the carburetors, then, at a latter date when the power head was rebuilt, a new carburetor was purchased. When I pulled the plugs the middle and lower plugs looked a little darker. Thanks again for any help. Propeller info: Michigan Wheel P/N 992103, Vortex XHS Aluminum; diameter: 13-3/4; pitch: 15; three-blade, right hand. I did the compression test, and, yes it was cold; all three cylinders are at 90-PSI with a Mac tester. The engine also has a new starter. So much has been done. I do not want to end up throwing good money after bad. [The boat] is nice enough to repower. I do not want to spend $9,000 on a new outboard. I would look for a nice used four-cycle-power-stroke, a 90-HP to 115-HP. From my understanding the mechanic was trying to fix this problem. There is a second receipt [for repair to the engine] that has good compression with carburtor rebuild; this was four months before the rebuild. The last receipt has the new carb listed. The boat weight was good. I checked the compression myself. I just checked the spark with a tester and it will jump 5/8-inch, which is strong spark The engine starts easily, seems to run okay. but at full throttle it does not have the power to plane off the boat. Any help as what to look for would be appreciated.
Jefecinco	posted 07-20-2015 07:22 PM ET (US) Seventy horsepower seems a little low to me. I recommend you consider the engine mounting height on the transom and a stainless steel four-blade propeller. There are many here who will be able to recommend some changes which will be helpful. It would be very useful to post your engine mounting information. Without knowing the RPM your engine is turning it is very difficult for the gurus on the forum to make recommendations to help your performance. You need to find a way to provide the RPM. Butch
contender	posted 07-20-2015 10:40 PM ET (US) sounds like you have a fuel problem, I would go through the carburetors again and check fuel lines and the bulb (do the easy stuff 1st) If you are getting good compression on all 3 cyl. has to be something simple.
jimh	posted 07-20-2015 11:30 PM ET (US) A simple first step in diagnosis: check for spark on all three cylinders. You might be running just on two of them. Use an in-line spark tester.
Redmanf1	posted 07-21-2015 04:36 AM ET (US) I did the the compression check as above and the spark test on all cylinders. All ready checked the fuel line and bulb. A couple of videos, the first one I was able to get on plane, the second one it would not. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IDf02IYXD4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFWO0_jpGdg
jimh	posted 07-21-2015 07:21 AM ET (US) Get a tachometer and measure the actual RPM. Your reports of engine speed all seem to be measuring engine speed by ear.
jimh	posted 07-21-2015 08:05 AM ET (US) In the recording seen at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFWO0_jpGdg I agree with your aural interpretation of the engine speed. The engine is not running at the normal full-throttle speed range. Try pumping the primer bulb to help move fuel to the engine at full throttle. If this improves the engine speed, a problem in the fuel system is indicated.
jimh	posted 07-21-2015 08:09 AM ET (US) Is there any indication that the onset of this problem is related to engine temperature? Many electronic components can react to higher temperature. You report that the Power Pack, which provides the spark ignition primary voltage to the spark coils--was already replaced. Have you checked the spark coils? A spark coil might have developed a fault. The spark voltage may be jumping to ground instead of getting to the spark plug. Try running the engine in the dark with the cowling removed. You may see evidence of the spark voltage jumping to ground somewhere.
dg22	posted 07-21-2015 10:11 AM ET (US) You could test your fuel pump if you have a fuel pressure gauge or have a marina test it for you. Possibly the fuel pump is not reaching the PSI needed at the higher rpm. I just ordered a fuel pump for my 1973 50hp Evinrude. They are $114 in Canada but I've seen them online in the US for $79. I ordered mine via the BRP website.
contender	posted 07-21-2015 11:28 AM ET (US) just because your fuel line is not leaking does not mean its working, use only a factory fuel bulb, and on engines this old you may have an enthanol problem eating the rubber inside the fuel line and other places...Like I said if you have good compression and spark you need to got throught your fuel system/carbs...start with the easy stuff....good luck
Sherman Mohnike	posted 07-21-2015 03:35 PM ET (US) You should do a vacuum check on the fuel system. Many time over the last 40 years with my whaler I had a air leak into the fuel line that caused the symptoms you talk about.
tedious	posted 07-21-2015 08:04 PM ET (US) From your description it is not clear whether the motor was ever working properly since the work was done on it. Can you clarify? First diagnostic step for these motors is always a "link and sync" - the process of aligning the carb openings and timing advance. If your mechanic does not know what that is, find another mechanic. Another common oops that can cause that symptom is a piece of lint or something in the high speed circuit of one of the carbs. They may have ruled that out with the second carb rebuild.