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Author Topic:   Fasteners For Installing Sump Pump

el Toro 2 posted 07-26-2015 08:09 PM ET (US)
I have an 1988 Montauk. I want to install a new [sump] pump and need to screw down the Rule cartridge strainer. I obviously don't want to screw through the hull. How thick is [the hull] in the bilge? Are 3/8-inch-long or 1/2-inch-long screws okay?
Jeff posted 07-26-2015 11:53 PM ET (US)
3/8 or 1/2 are just fine. Be sure and bed them with poly sulfide chalk or 3M 4200
contender posted 07-28-2015 10:57 AM ET (US)
I would get the RULE-brand pump that has a removable bottom. This way once the pump gets clogged or wears out, you can just get a new one and use the same bottom and not have to unscrew anything.
wezie posted 07-28-2015 12:08 PM ET (US)
Think of a 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick piece of wood. Seal well and attach pump and switch. Now glue into sump. Seal well any holes in fiberglass.
dneal33 posted 07-28-2015 01:18 PM ET (US)
Just dry out the area and use 3M 4200 adhesive to glue the base down.
kwik_wurk posted 07-28-2015 01:57 PM ET (US)
Actually don't screw into the bilge. Do the reverse, glue to the top of the removable square plate. Specifically, glue a spacer first to get the bilge pump down to the right depth, then glue pump to spacer. This saves you from new holes in the bilge, and makes the tunnel bottom cleaner.
jimh posted 07-28-2015 03:54 PM ET (US)
In the cockpit sump of most Boston Whaler boats you will find a through-hull drain. The through-hull drain passes through the hull. You can make a judgement about the thickness of the hull at the point at which the through-hull drain passes through the hull by measuring the length of the drain tube.
If you want to know the thickness of the fiberglass laminate in a particular area of the hull, you can examine an existing fastener hole. A close examination of an existing fastener hole will reveal the thickness of the gel coat layer, the underlying layers of laminate, and then the foam interior. Generally the laminate is not very thick in a Boston Whaler boat, and any fastener that is being threaded into an area where there is no wood backing or other reinforcement will only obtain any purchase in a thin layer of laminate.
steelhead5 posted 07-28-2015 04:51 PM ET (US)
There is really no reason to glue or screw [the sump pump] in [place]. In my Montauk I simply put [the sump pump] down [in the cockpit sump well], with the wiring laying on top holding [the sump pump] down, along with the pressure of the outlet hose. It has been like this for 15 years, and I have never had [the sump pump] move.
jimh posted 08-01-2015 08:21 AM ET (US)
[Moved to REPAIRS/MODS for discussion.]

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Author	Topic: Fasteners For Installing Sump Pump
el Toro 2	posted 07-26-2015 08:09 PM ET (US) I have an 1988 Montauk. I want to install a new [sump] pump and need to screw down the Rule cartridge strainer. I obviously don't want to screw through the hull. How thick is [the hull] in the bilge? Are 3/8-inch-long or 1/2-inch-long screws okay?
Jeff	posted 07-26-2015 11:53 PM ET (US) 3/8 or 1/2 are just fine. Be sure and bed them with poly sulfide chalk or 3M 4200
contender	posted 07-28-2015 10:57 AM ET (US) I would get the RULE-brand pump that has a removable bottom. This way once the pump gets clogged or wears out, you can just get a new one and use the same bottom and not have to unscrew anything.
wezie	posted 07-28-2015 12:08 PM ET (US) Think of a 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick piece of wood. Seal well and attach pump and switch. Now glue into sump. Seal well any holes in fiberglass.
dneal33	posted 07-28-2015 01:18 PM ET (US) Just dry out the area and use 3M 4200 adhesive to glue the base down.
kwik_wurk	posted 07-28-2015 01:57 PM ET (US) Actually don't screw into the bilge. Do the reverse, glue to the top of the removable square plate. Specifically, glue a spacer first to get the bilge pump down to the right depth, then glue pump to spacer. This saves you from new holes in the bilge, and makes the tunnel bottom cleaner.
jimh	posted 07-28-2015 03:54 PM ET (US) In the cockpit sump of most Boston Whaler boats you will find a through-hull drain. The through-hull drain passes through the hull. You can make a judgement about the thickness of the hull at the point at which the through-hull drain passes through the hull by measuring the length of the drain tube. If you want to know the thickness of the fiberglass laminate in a particular area of the hull, you can examine an existing fastener hole. A close examination of an existing fastener hole will reveal the thickness of the gel coat layer, the underlying layers of laminate, and then the foam interior. Generally the laminate is not very thick in a Boston Whaler boat, and any fastener that is being threaded into an area where there is no wood backing or other reinforcement will only obtain any purchase in a thin layer of laminate.
steelhead5	posted 07-28-2015 04:51 PM ET (US) There is really no reason to glue or screw [the sump pump] in [place]. In my Montauk I simply put [the sump pump] down [in the cockpit sump well], with the wiring laying on top holding [the sump pump] down, along with the pressure of the outlet hose. It has been like this for 15 years, and I have never had [the sump pump] move.
jimh	posted 08-01-2015 08:21 AM ET (US) [Moved to REPAIRS/MODS for discussion.]