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Author Topic:   9.9HP Kicker Bracket

Bruce Boehle posted 07-09-2000 10:29 AM ET (US)
I put a 9.9 kicker on my Nauset this weekend and would like to mount some sort of support post to keep the engine up when using the main engine. I remember some talk of this before in the forum but not the specifics. Has anyone installed a modified trailering type bracket for this purpose? Ideas. Thanks Bruce
lhg posted 07-13-2000 07:57 PM ET (US)
Bruce: Whaler published quite detailed procedures for mounting and using a trolling motor on the 16/17 hulls. First of all, the engine must be mounted directly on the raised starboard corner of the transom, and not on one of those flimsy, light duty, lift brackets, which can fail when you need the engine most.
In this position, it's weight counters the propeller torque generated by the main engine. There is wood installed in this part of the transom for this purpose. The turn knobs on the engine should be used, with 3/8" bolts through the lower bracket holes and through the hull to make sure you don't lose the engine while underway with the main engine. For running the kicker, they recommend that it's swivel be tightened so the engine runs straight only, with the main engine steering being used like a rudder to steer the boat. They do not recommend that it be steered by an elaborate connection to the main engine steering, something else that can fail and jam up at the wrong time. When it is tilted, they simply recommend that it be lashed down tight against it's own tilt bracket stop, to prevent it from "hopping" out of the tilted position. One of those rubber straps with hooks works fine for this.
Finally, having run one of these myself on a 16, the kicker MUST be a 20" shaft engine to avoid spinning out and to keep the engine high and dry. It will sit on the transom on an angle, and doesn't need to be shimmed level. The inward angle of the engine shaft has no effect whatsoever on the engine's, or boat's, performance. All of this amounts to a very simple and heavy duty installation which will not fail you when you need it most - bad sea conditions with your main engine out.
Bruce Boehle posted 07-13-2000 08:30 PM ET (US)
Larry,
I read what you are saying in my manual as well. The problem I have is I have a nice mahogany seat that spans across the back of the boat. I put hinged seat backs on them for comfort. With the kicker up in its own bracket it will not allow a person to use the back of the seat without jabbing into the motor. The Merc dealer said I could run with it down all the time if needed. I tried this and the motor will kick up and down as I hit waves etc. It also makes it hard to steer. Thus my thoughts of a bracket allowing me to tilt it half way, conquering both problems at once.
BTW, I bought the two Ultra PBW tanks for under the console. I had to move the OMC fuel filter and bracket to under the front seat and raise the console 2 inches to give me enough room. The fringe benefit is that I prefer the higher steering wheel. It gives me more leg room. Do you know if the electric fuel gauge conversion unit that Tempo sells for these tanks is any good? It would be real handy to have gauges instead of pulling the tank out to check level.
Thanks, Bruce
lhg posted 07-13-2000 10:11 PM ET (US)
Bruce: I think your Dealer gave you really BAD information that you can run the boat with the kicker down. That's ridiculous!
If you want to run it in a partially trimmed position, I would use a wood block wedged under the tilt bracket, setting the engine to the angle that keeps the engine out of the water, and then lash it against the block.
Either that, or you're going to have to modify your seat back.
Regarding your new fuel tanks, I would eliminate the OMC permanent style filter. Those water separating filters are designed for in-hull tanks that tend to accumulate water as condensation. Tempo tanks don't need this, as the fuel you are getting would have little or no water in it. Only dirt particles are a possible problem here, and Tempo makes a little in-line filter you can use if you want. I've never even bothered with those for portable tanks. I would also not bother with the electric fuel gauge. You will be able to see the fuel level through the tank wall. I used to simply lift the front edge of the tank and feel the weight of fuel remaining.

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Author	Topic: 9.9HP Kicker Bracket
Bruce Boehle	posted 07-09-2000 10:29 AM ET (US) I put a 9.9 kicker on my Nauset this weekend and would like to mount some sort of support post to keep the engine up when using the main engine. I remember some talk of this before in the forum but not the specifics. Has anyone installed a modified trailering type bracket for this purpose? Ideas. Thanks Bruce
lhg	posted 07-13-2000 07:57 PM ET (US) Bruce: Whaler published quite detailed procedures for mounting and using a trolling motor on the 16/17 hulls. First of all, the engine must be mounted directly on the raised starboard corner of the transom, and not on one of those flimsy, light duty, lift brackets, which can fail when you need the engine most. In this position, it's weight counters the propeller torque generated by the main engine. There is wood installed in this part of the transom for this purpose. The turn knobs on the engine should be used, with 3/8" bolts through the lower bracket holes and through the hull to make sure you don't lose the engine while underway with the main engine. For running the kicker, they recommend that it's swivel be tightened so the engine runs straight only, with the main engine steering being used like a rudder to steer the boat. They do not recommend that it be steered by an elaborate connection to the main engine steering, something else that can fail and jam up at the wrong time. When it is tilted, they simply recommend that it be lashed down tight against it's own tilt bracket stop, to prevent it from "hopping" out of the tilted position. One of those rubber straps with hooks works fine for this. Finally, having run one of these myself on a 16, the kicker MUST be a 20" shaft engine to avoid spinning out and to keep the engine high and dry. It will sit on the transom on an angle, and doesn't need to be shimmed level. The inward angle of the engine shaft has no effect whatsoever on the engine's, or boat's, performance. All of this amounts to a very simple and heavy duty installation which will not fail you when you need it most - bad sea conditions with your main engine out.
Bruce Boehle	posted 07-13-2000 08:30 PM ET (US) Larry, I read what you are saying in my manual as well. The problem I have is I have a nice mahogany seat that spans across the back of the boat. I put hinged seat backs on them for comfort. With the kicker up in its own bracket it will not allow a person to use the back of the seat without jabbing into the motor. The Merc dealer said I could run with it down all the time if needed. I tried this and the motor will kick up and down as I hit waves etc. It also makes it hard to steer. Thus my thoughts of a bracket allowing me to tilt it half way, conquering both problems at once. BTW, I bought the two Ultra PBW tanks for under the console. I had to move the OMC fuel filter and bracket to under the front seat and raise the console 2 inches to give me enough room. The fringe benefit is that I prefer the higher steering wheel. It gives me more leg room. Do you know if the electric fuel gauge conversion unit that Tempo sells for these tanks is any good? It would be real handy to have gauges instead of pulling the tank out to check level. Thanks, Bruce
lhg	posted 07-13-2000 10:11 PM ET (US) Bruce: I think your Dealer gave you really BAD information that you can run the boat with the kicker down. That's ridiculous! If you want to run it in a partially trimmed position, I would use a wood block wedged under the tilt bracket, setting the engine to the angle that keeps the engine out of the water, and then lash it against the block. Either that, or you're going to have to modify your seat back. Regarding your new fuel tanks, I would eliminate the OMC permanent style filter. Those water separating filters are designed for in-hull tanks that tend to accumulate water as condensation. Tempo tanks don't need this, as the fuel you are getting would have little or no water in it. Only dirt particles are a possible problem here, and Tempo makes a little in-line filter you can use if you want. I've never even bothered with those for portable tanks. I would also not bother with the electric fuel gauge. You will be able to see the fuel level through the tank wall. I used to simply lift the front edge of the tank and feel the weight of fuel remaining.