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Author Topic:   Kicker for Montauk 17'

Ferdinando posted 02-16-2001 08:04 AM ET (US)
What would be the recommended HP for a
kicker on a 17' footer. Feedback on
mounting would also be appreciated.
Thks, Fred
compounder posted 02-16-2001 02:45 PM ET (US)
Fred, I recently changed auxillary power on my Montauk from a 4hp two-stroke to a 9.8hp two-stroke. The 4 worked okay in very calm water, but lacked adequate power to run against current or wind.
I have yet to even crank the 9.8 Nissan, but feel sure this will be adequate power.
I was less than satisfied with the old OMC bracket I was using with the 4 (too much movement in the lift mechanism) so I ordered a long (20in) shaft on the 9.8 and will mount it directly on the starboard transom.
mattr posted 02-16-2001 08:17 PM ET (US)
Ferdinando -
I asked the same question to this forum a while ago - search back through older posts. There are TONS of replies to this question - the general input was a 8 - 9.9 hp mounted directly on the transom with a 20" shaft (as compounder indicates) is what is recommended by BW themselves...
mattr
whalernut posted 02-16-2001 08:31 PM ET (US)
Would hooking right to the transom also work with a 73` `16 Currituck? My 85h.p. Johnson is just too high strung to troll properly with. Regards-Jack Graner.
andygere posted 02-16-2001 10:01 PM ET (US)
I have a 15 hp Johnson on a bracket bolted to my Montauk. It has plenty of power to push the boat, and for trolling you could probably use a 9 or 10 hp. I like the extra power for the "get you home" factor if I ever have problems with the big motor. I am rebuilding the OMC high/low bracket, including replacing all the hardware with stainless, and installing oversize rubber bushings to replace the worn out plastic ones. It's almost done!
Tom W Clark posted 02-16-2001 10:30 PM ET (US)
When I had my Montauk, I used a Johnson 6 hp (20") clamped directly onto the transom. It was clean, strong and simple. The 6 hp was light and plenty powerful. The 6 hp on the Montauk would push it faster than my Outrage 18 with its Johnson 15 hp.
Another really sweet setup is to use a tie bar between the big motor and the little motor. Many boaters use the EZ Steer brand of tie bar, but on both the Montauk and the Outrage I had these very simple, clean, and effective tie bars that were custom fabricated by my Dealer, the fabulous Jacobsens Boats and Motors (no longer dealing Whalers). The tie bar was simply a piece of 3/8" all thread with a ball and socket type termination. One ball bolted to the unused hole in the big motors steering arm, the other to a stainless right angle bracket bolted to the carrying handle. I believe all the parts were off-the-shelf parts. The all thread had to be slightly (or radically) bent to accomodate the power heads, ect of both motors in both the up and down tilt. The beauty of this setup was that no matter which motor was up or down, or whether the helm was hard to port or starboard, there was never any interference. I left the bar on all the time, though it could be removed by simply unsnapping it in few seconds with your hands, from inside the boat. It was far less expensive than the EZ Steer, and looked a hell of a lot cleaner. A guy could make one in less than an hour.
Dick posted 02-16-2001 10:34 PM ET (US)
Tom
Dick posted 02-16-2001 10:42 PM ET (US)
Tom
The tie bar system you have described is made by the Goldeneye Co. You can buy the parts you need to fit you needs and put it together yourself. I am in the wholesale marine distrubation industry, we sell both E-Z Steer and Goldeneye. Goldeneye outsells E-E by 4:1.
A pitty that Jake's, at one time the largest BW dealer in the US, no longer sells them.
Dick
rhemrah posted 02-24-2001 12:21 AM ET (US)
Compounder,
Can you explain exactly where and how you are mounting your 9.8 kicker, and how does the weight effect the transom.
Rick
compounder posted 02-24-2001 08:28 PM ET (US)
Rick, I have my 9.8 mounted directly on the starboard transom right now. I am using the stock screw clamps to hold it on as the Nissan 9.8 does not have bolt holes in the transom bracket.
As I have not had my boat in the water with the new kicker installed, I can't comment on how the 60 pound engine will affect anything, but I don't expect problems. The old 4hp weighed 40 pounds and the bracket 10-12, so I'm not adding that much.
I'll post performance results as soon as I get my boat out on the water (probably about 1 month).
Joe
Dick posted 02-24-2001 09:18 PM ET (US)
Tempo makes a rubber pad that slips over the transom prior to hanging the kicker motor. It eliminates the problem of scratching the gel coat and provides a non-slip surface for the thumb screws. Part number is 655TTP list price should be $26.95 or less.
Dick
whalernut posted 02-24-2001 11:04 PM ET (US)
Dick, I am contiplating a small 4-6h.p. kicker for my Currituck and that Pad by Tempo will be great as I am just going to just use the manual screw-on things. Thanks for reccommending that item! Regards-Jack Graner.
andygere posted 02-25-2001 01:35 AM ET (US)
The owners manual for my Montauk reccomends clamping the kicker directly to the transom without a pad so the clamps will get a good bite on the gelcoat. I agree, it will probably leave some nasty looking marks. I secure my kicker to the lifting eye with a short section of stainless steel cable to prevent loss of the motor if the clamps ever let go (mine's on a bracket), and strongly suggest the safety cable if using a protective pad under the clamps.
Tom W Clark posted 02-25-2001 01:46 AM ET (US)
I agree with Andy, you will get a much more secure hold on the transon if you simply clamp it directly on. Hey, that's what the transon and its wood reinforcement is for. Costs less, works better. If your kicker has provisions in the mounting bracket for bolts (typically 1/4"), use them instead of a safety chain or cable. Bolts will keep the mount on the transom. Chain or cable will only keep the motor from going to the bottom after it comes off the transom. It's like installing a lot of the accessories we use: nobody likes to drill holes in our beautiful boats, but we get over it and do it anyway. Clamp that thing directly on!
rhemrah posted 02-26-2001 07:23 PM ET (US)
hey guys,
Are you mounting the kicker motor directly to the transom instead of using a bolt through bracket. What are you guys doing about the length of the shaft. I measure about 23'' from the top of the transom to the bottom, I cannot mount a kicker directly beside my main power due to space on the Montauk. I am considering a kicker motor,but like you guys I hate to drill holes through the transom.
Rick
rhemrah posted 02-26-2001 07:27 PM ET (US)
hey guys,
Are you mounting the kicker motor directly to the top of the transom instead of using a bolt through bracket. What are you guys doing about the length of the shaft. I measure about 23'' from the top of the transom to the bottom, I cannot mount a kicker directly beside my main power due to space on the Montauk. I am considering a kicker motor,but like you guys I hate to drill holes through the transom.
Rick
Tom W Clark posted 02-26-2001 07:39 PM ET (US)
Yes, the kicker is clamped directly onto the transom on either the port or starboard side. This is how Boston Whaler designed and intended it to be done. It is necessary to use a long shaft (20") kicker but other than that there should not be any problem. On my Montauk I used a Johnson 6 hp mounted to starboard next to a Johnson 90 hp (v-4). Not down in the "cutout" mind you but on the upper portion of the transom where there is a wood reinforcement pad in the hull. Check out the wood locator diagram in the reference section of this site: http://www.continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/16-17/graphics/17wood1190x743.jpeg

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Author	Topic: Kicker for Montauk 17'
Ferdinando	posted 02-16-2001 08:04 AM ET (US) What would be the recommended HP for a kicker on a 17' footer. Feedback on mounting would also be appreciated. Thks, Fred
compounder	posted 02-16-2001 02:45 PM ET (US) Fred, I recently changed auxillary power on my Montauk from a 4hp two-stroke to a 9.8hp two-stroke. The 4 worked okay in very calm water, but lacked adequate power to run against current or wind. I have yet to even crank the 9.8 Nissan, but feel sure this will be adequate power. I was less than satisfied with the old OMC bracket I was using with the 4 (too much movement in the lift mechanism) so I ordered a long (20in) shaft on the 9.8 and will mount it directly on the starboard transom.
mattr	posted 02-16-2001 08:17 PM ET (US) Ferdinando - I asked the same question to this forum a while ago - search back through older posts. There are TONS of replies to this question - the general input was a 8 - 9.9 hp mounted directly on the transom with a 20" shaft (as compounder indicates) is what is recommended by BW themselves... mattr
whalernut	posted 02-16-2001 08:31 PM ET (US) Would hooking right to the transom also work with a 73` `16 Currituck? My 85h.p. Johnson is just too high strung to troll properly with. Regards-Jack Graner.
andygere	posted 02-16-2001 10:01 PM ET (US) I have a 15 hp Johnson on a bracket bolted to my Montauk. It has plenty of power to push the boat, and for trolling you could probably use a 9 or 10 hp. I like the extra power for the "get you home" factor if I ever have problems with the big motor. I am rebuilding the OMC high/low bracket, including replacing all the hardware with stainless, and installing oversize rubber bushings to replace the worn out plastic ones. It's almost done!
Tom W Clark	posted 02-16-2001 10:30 PM ET (US) When I had my Montauk, I used a Johnson 6 hp (20") clamped directly onto the transom. It was clean, strong and simple. The 6 hp was light and plenty powerful. The 6 hp on the Montauk would push it faster than my Outrage 18 with its Johnson 15 hp. Another really sweet setup is to use a tie bar between the big motor and the little motor. Many boaters use the EZ Steer brand of tie bar, but on both the Montauk and the Outrage I had these very simple, clean, and effective tie bars that were custom fabricated by my Dealer, the fabulous Jacobsens Boats and Motors (no longer dealing Whalers). The tie bar was simply a piece of 3/8" all thread with a ball and socket type termination. One ball bolted to the unused hole in the big motors steering arm, the other to a stainless right angle bracket bolted to the carrying handle. I believe all the parts were off-the-shelf parts. The all thread had to be slightly (or radically) bent to accomodate the power heads, ect of both motors in both the up and down tilt. The beauty of this setup was that no matter which motor was up or down, or whether the helm was hard to port or starboard, there was never any interference. I left the bar on all the time, though it could be removed by simply unsnapping it in few seconds with your hands, from inside the boat. It was far less expensive than the EZ Steer, and looked a hell of a lot cleaner. A guy could make one in less than an hour.
Dick	posted 02-16-2001 10:34 PM ET (US) Tom
Dick	posted 02-16-2001 10:42 PM ET (US) Tom The tie bar system you have described is made by the Goldeneye Co. You can buy the parts you need to fit you needs and put it together yourself. I am in the wholesale marine distrubation industry, we sell both E-Z Steer and Goldeneye. Goldeneye outsells E-E by 4:1. A pitty that Jake's, at one time the largest BW dealer in the US, no longer sells them. Dick
rhemrah	posted 02-24-2001 12:21 AM ET (US) Compounder, Can you explain exactly where and how you are mounting your 9.8 kicker, and how does the weight effect the transom. Rick
compounder	posted 02-24-2001 08:28 PM ET (US) Rick, I have my 9.8 mounted directly on the starboard transom right now. I am using the stock screw clamps to hold it on as the Nissan 9.8 does not have bolt holes in the transom bracket. As I have not had my boat in the water with the new kicker installed, I can't comment on how the 60 pound engine will affect anything, but I don't expect problems. The old 4hp weighed 40 pounds and the bracket 10-12, so I'm not adding that much. I'll post performance results as soon as I get my boat out on the water (probably about 1 month). Joe
Dick	posted 02-24-2001 09:18 PM ET (US) Tempo makes a rubber pad that slips over the transom prior to hanging the kicker motor. It eliminates the problem of scratching the gel coat and provides a non-slip surface for the thumb screws. Part number is 655TTP list price should be $26.95 or less. Dick
whalernut	posted 02-24-2001 11:04 PM ET (US) Dick, I am contiplating a small 4-6h.p. kicker for my Currituck and that Pad by Tempo will be great as I am just going to just use the manual screw-on things. Thanks for reccommending that item! Regards-Jack Graner.
andygere	posted 02-25-2001 01:35 AM ET (US) The owners manual for my Montauk reccomends clamping the kicker directly to the transom without a pad so the clamps will get a good bite on the gelcoat. I agree, it will probably leave some nasty looking marks. I secure my kicker to the lifting eye with a short section of stainless steel cable to prevent loss of the motor if the clamps ever let go (mine's on a bracket), and strongly suggest the safety cable if using a protective pad under the clamps.
Tom W Clark	posted 02-25-2001 01:46 AM ET (US) I agree with Andy, you will get a much more secure hold on the transon if you simply clamp it directly on. Hey, that's what the transon and its wood reinforcement is for. Costs less, works better. If your kicker has provisions in the mounting bracket for bolts (typically 1/4"), use them instead of a safety chain or cable. Bolts will keep the mount on the transom. Chain or cable will only keep the motor from going to the bottom after it comes off the transom. It's like installing a lot of the accessories we use: nobody likes to drill holes in our beautiful boats, but we get over it and do it anyway. Clamp that thing directly on!
rhemrah	posted 02-26-2001 07:23 PM ET (US) hey guys, Are you mounting the kicker motor directly to the transom instead of using a bolt through bracket. What are you guys doing about the length of the shaft. I measure about 23'' from the top of the transom to the bottom, I cannot mount a kicker directly beside my main power due to space on the Montauk. I am considering a kicker motor,but like you guys I hate to drill holes through the transom. Rick
rhemrah	posted 02-26-2001 07:27 PM ET (US) hey guys, Are you mounting the kicker motor directly to the top of the transom instead of using a bolt through bracket. What are you guys doing about the length of the shaft. I measure about 23'' from the top of the transom to the bottom, I cannot mount a kicker directly beside my main power due to space on the Montauk. I am considering a kicker motor,but like you guys I hate to drill holes through the transom. Rick
Tom W Clark	posted 02-26-2001 07:39 PM ET (US) Yes, the kicker is clamped directly onto the transom on either the port or starboard side. This is how Boston Whaler designed and intended it to be done. It is necessary to use a long shaft (20") kicker but other than that there should not be any problem. On my Montauk I used a Johnson 6 hp mounted to starboard next to a Johnson 90 hp (v-4). Not down in the "cutout" mind you but on the upper portion of the transom where there is a wood reinforcement pad in the hull. Check out the wood locator diagram in the reference section of this site: http://www.continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/16-17/graphics/17wood1190x743.jpeg