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  How to rig a kicker motor

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Author Topic:   How to rig a kicker motor
onlyawhaler posted 01-17-2003 09:20 PM ET (US)   Profile for onlyawhaler   Send Email to onlyawhaler  
I am considering installing a kicker motor (Honda 6-8) for trolling on my late 80s 18ft Outrage. Any help or advice on installing it correctly. Shall I place it on the transom directly or on a bracket like a Fulton unit?
Thanks
Tom W Clark posted 01-17-2003 09:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
onlyawhaler,

You want a 20" shaft motor for starters. It will clamp directly to the port side of the transom (the steering cables will interfere with mounting to starboard unless you have a jack plate).

If the motor you use has a provision for auxiliary mounting bolts, be sure to them. On the 9.9s I had on my Outrage 18 they were 1/4-inch size which I used in conjunction with stainless steel fender washers and nylocks.

For the ultimate in control use a tie bar between the big motor and the kicker. The one I used mounted on the inside of the boat between the tiller arm of the main motor and a bracket bolted to the front of the kicker. Ball joints allowed the use of quick release couplers that allowed the tie bar to be removed instantly.

I actually never needed to do this as the motors turned together without any interference at all regardless of which one was up or down.

You can also use the EZ Steer brand of tie bar which I do not like nearly as much. They are expensive, clunky looking and awkward to deal with when the boat is in the water.

onlyawhaler posted 01-18-2003 01:45 AM ET (US)     Profile for onlyawhaler  Send Email to onlyawhaler     
Thanks Tom for the reply,
Let me ask you this. Since you mounted a 9.9 on your port side (4 stroke?)did the weight of the motor create a tendency to make the bost list port while getting on plane or while underway or is the balance OK? Do you prefer a transom mount vs a bracket mount?
Thanks
Onlyawhaler
onlyawhaler posted 01-18-2003 01:51 AM ET (US)     Profile for onlyawhaler  Send Email to onlyawhaler     
Sorry Tom, didn't word that well. You obviously prefer a transom mount. Since I have two batteries in splash well on the startboard side, a kicker on the port would probably counterbalance fine.
Where did you buy the paticular connecting bracket for your steering and does it need to be removed when you raise your kicker and get underway?
Tom W Clark posted 01-18-2003 01:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
onlyawhaler,

Not only do I prefer and recommend a transom mount but that is what Whaler also recommended.

Yes, my boat tended to list to port when running as most single engine boats do. Having the kicker to port does not help this situation, but it does not exacerbate it significantly either. There are lots of different things you can do to compensate for it.

Mostly I just adjusted the load to meet the conditions. This usually meant I asked certain passengers to sit on a certain side of the boat. The listing was most annoying when I was running by myself with a cross wind from port.

I too had dual batteries but they were split port and starboard. I had my VRO tank in a matching battery box to starboard.

I actually had four different kickers on my boat over the ten years I owned it, a Johnson 15 and 9.9, a Yamaha 8, and an Evinrude 8 four stroke. All of those motors were plenty of power and none were particularly heavy. The Evinrude was the heaviest at 93 pounds.

onlyawhaler posted 01-18-2003 10:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for onlyawhaler  Send Email to onlyawhaler     
Thanks Tom,

At this point in time with the experience you have had in kickers, would you go four stoke and deal with the weight or two stroke and have less weight, but more smoke?

Thanks

Tom W Clark posted 01-19-2003 12:32 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
onlyawhaler,

Well, it depends on the motor. Generally speaking I would tend to go with a four stroke for a kicker because it will be easier to plumb straight off the fuel tank eliminating the need for an auxiliary tank, and because of the reduced emissions which are a drag when trolling downwind. I would not be too concerned about the weight.

But I would also say that not all kickers are created equal. I was never too fond of the OMC 9.9/15 models for trolling, but I loved the 6 hp models. The Yamaha 8 that I used for two seasons was an excellent trolling motor too.

I still have, and am using, the Evinrude 8 four stroke and it is rock steady and bullet proof as near as I can tell. But I have been using it on my wood boats the last few years and that motor has an odd harmonic vibration at a certain RPM range which unfortunately is right about where I like to use it for trolling for Silvers (Coho salmon) It tend to make the boat rattle a bit which I find very annoying. At higher speeds it is smooth as silk.

Louie Kokinis posted 01-19-2003 02:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for Louie Kokinis    
I'm running a Merc 15 Bigfoot (Yamaha head) and found it to be a pain. Like Clark's it tends to vibrate at certain RPM. It is difficult to start in the winter months, and its valves started to go at 1,500 hours. Instead of rebuilding the top end, I decided to run it till it dies. It has over 3,000 hours, is VERY difficult to start some days, but its still running :)

The kicker is mounted directly to the transom, plumbed to the main tank using a separate pickup and Racor filter. It is also tied to the main motor from the inside, with controls (electric start and throttle) at the console.

I love the setup; hate the motor!

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