posted 09-17-2003 08:36 PM ET (US)            

I have had best performance with a SE Sport 300, though I have not tried every option, I have tried the Doel Fin and StingRay.

I think that the Cobra EDGE is a good looking product but haven't tried that one. Just cheap, I guess.

posted 09-17-2003 08:37 PM ET (US)            

I have had a Sting Ray before and I think the Hydro Lift performs better.

I would think your Dauntless 18 would plane with a 125HP, although it is underpowered. You will probably need to look at the vertical position of your motor on the transom. Can you tell us what hole position the motor is mounted on? If it is too low, the drag that is induced is dramatic and this could be a problem. Typically, the AV plate needs to be at least 1" above the bottom of the boat.

posted 09-17-2003 09:15 PM ET (US)            

http://www.stiffypushpoles.com/shawwing.htm

posted 09-18-2003 06:32 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for the link...I like the looks of the "Shaw Wing". Less bulk than the other foils I've seen...Doesn't look like a big 'ol ray ate your lower unit. I think it's worth investigating.

posted 09-18-2003 06:38 PM ET (US)            

Deak Link

Its one fine piece of kit as the Brits say. All stainless and heavy duty enough to use to get into the boat with.

posted 09-18-2003 09:13 PM ET (US)            

Use the level against the bottom of the boat for a foot or two to see how low the AV plate is with respect to the boat.

Basically, though you should put some time aside to do a the science project because most of this is experimentation. You want to have the motor as high as you can get it without getting the prop to ventilate (blowout) and still have cooling water going to the motor (cooling stream out of the pee hole). The factors that will effect this are position of load (fore and aft), sea state etc...

Measuring will give you an idea but the best way is still by experimenting.

Minimum HP for your boat is (per whaler website) 115HP. You are not far from that lower limit. If your motor is in need of a tune up or has another problem you might not have sufficient horsepower to make her go up and out of the hole very well. More HP always helps.

I think, after looking at this spec, that getting the motor as high as you can will make a big difference. The amount of drag a 3/4" high by width of your lower unit produced is substantial at planing speeds.

The other thing you should probably look at is prop selection. Getting a high performance cupped and raked stainless steel prop will also help your hole shot big time. You can also go from a 3 blade to a 4 blade, but that will be at the expense of top end.

Does the boat go nose up dramatically when you put the hammer down? If so, a fin will help this dramatically. Between the fin and the prop, For fins, I prefer the Hydro Lift because is is heavy duty, stiff and doesn't need the AV plate drilled. For props, I like Stilletto - they tend to be cheaper, they work great and their tech support guys seem to really know their stuff.

getting the height right you should be able to really optimize what you have. Do the fin next, then the prop. Failing all that, trim tabs will also help the hole shot.

Moving the motor up a hole is not a big deal - in fact it is pretty easy. all you need is a hydraulic jack, a piece of 2x8 to put the under the motor skeg, a phillips screwdriver and silicon sealant if your bolts are blind in the little compartment in your transom, your trailer and two 3/4" wrenches or sockets.

Here is how you move it:
1. Put the trailer tongue flat on the ground. Chock the wheels fore and aft both sides.
2. Put a piece of wood under the motor skeg. Motor should be vertical.
3. put jack under trailer tongue and put a little tension on it (motor skeg resting on the wood taking the tension).
4. Unloosen the bolts that go through the holes and remove them. Leave the sliding bolts tight.
5. loosen but don't remove the sliding bolts. Have someone steady the motor to keep it vertical.
6. Jack up the trailer toungue. This will try to force the skeg down, but since the motor is loose, it will start sliding up.
7. Keep jacking it up until you get to the hole you want. Then reinsert bolts and tighten.
8. You might have to kind of jiggle the motor back and forth (side to side) to help it slide up. It might try to bind against the transom a bit.

Whole thing takes about 30 minutes the first time you try it, 15 minutes the next time - you can do it right at the boat launch ramp parking lot. No big deal.

Set aside an afternoon at the ramp and go experiment. I would move your motor up until the AV plate is between 1" to 1-3/4" above the bottom of the boat - experience seems to say this is the best. You will have to try it to see. You just need to make sure you have cooling water and that the prop doesn't blow out. All of this depends on the way you use your boat, load it and the sea state of the waters you boat on.

One hole movement can make a huge difference. There really is no way to predict what will be optimal, you just need to try it. I am thinking that if you can get the motor up, you will have less drag and this will help you plane.

posted 12-16-2007 11:05 AM ET (US)            

If hole shot remains unacceptable you may want to go up another hole on the transom. Then get back in the water and play around some more. Next, if you remain unsatisfied try a different propeller. Tom Clark recommended a propeller change for my boat and the results were outstanding. Tom or your local Mecury dealer may be willing to work with you on that.

After trying different operating approches, transom heights, and propellers a hydrofoil may be in order. Mine is a Stingray and it was very helpful before changing my propeller. I intend to remove it when I get the urge as I am not certain it is needed now that the propeller is so well dialed in on my boat.