posted 07-10-2005 10:46 AM ET (US)            

Most average users run about 108:1 with the XD 100. A bass boat with high speed runs will use more while putzing around on a pontoon boat will result in less oil use.

XD 50 lists for $23 per gallon and XD 100 for $33. XD100 would be cheaper to use at those prices. If you can find XD 50 in bulk for around $16 or so, it would be a wash.

posted 07-10-2005 06:52 PM ET (US)            

That's the Beauty of E-TEC, you can use generally whatever you want. (so long as the EMM is programmed appropriately) XD100 lists for about 33 bucks a gallon, but I've seen it just yesterday at 35 and 34 bucks locally in SW Michigan. You can program the engine to take "Standard" TCW-3 Oil, but it will use more of it. The XD100 is synthetic and the motor reportedly is a miser when burning it.

posted 07-11-2005 06:34 PM ET (US)            

I would strongly recommend a set-back bracket, even if its the least expensive kind like I have (Approx. $100). Well worth the money and will eliminate any need for drilling the transom to fit the motor - aluminum bracket is much easier to drill with far less risk if errors are made. Worth the $$ for performance inhancement as well.

Just my 2 cents....

posted 07-11-2005 07:34 PM ET (US)            

On a final note, the local BW dealer in San Francisco Bay, Outboard Motor Shop, has been rigging Montauks for many, many years, by mounting the engine 'one hole up' (ie. the upper mounting bolts are positioned in the engine bracket one hole lower than the top set of holes, and in the lower slide mounts.) The lower mounting bolt heads fit just fine inside the splashwell. They continue this practice on the 17-alerts to this day.

posted 07-11-2005 10:35 PM ET (US)            

If the blind holes are used, the engine mounting height cannot be adjusted unless new holes are drilled.

There is a concise and very thorough description of engine mounting arrangements in the FAQ which I strongly recommend you read.

Here is hyperlink:

posted 07-12-2005 03:23 AM ET (US)            

The article on engine mounting height in the reference section is fantastic.

Without knowing it we did exactly as LHG suggested in point N°5 of Q8 on my friend Henry's 17-ft Guardian. It works perfectly and is the only good way to mount any engine on a classic Montauk hull (IMO).

This site has more information than meets the eye. When you think you have read everything you still find something you haven't.

Erik

posted 07-14-2005 09:32 AM ET (US)            

By the way, when you take delivery of the engine, be sure to ask the installer for all the original literature that came with it.

posted 07-14-2005 09:38 AM ET (US)            

As explained to me, Evinrude engineering has found what they are calling phase separation of the fuel after a certain amount of water gets into the fuel. Water sources could be the fuel station, rain, condensation etc...

I was told they took a beaker of fuel from one of the affected locations and using an eye dropper, slowly dripped water into the beaker of fuel. At a certain point, the fuel separated into 3 layers, fuel on top, alcohol in the middle and water on bottom. They were able to "remix" the fuel by using the eye dropper to add 2+4 into the beaker.

Maybe this sounds far-fetched to some of you, but if this is occuring, keep in mind that most fuel tanks have the fuel pick-up located at the bottom of the tank and that's where the water will be.

Somewhere in all my stuff, I've also got a fax from a Mercury dealer that essentially makes the same recommendation.

posted 07-14-2005 04:33 PM ET (US)            

You are correct about the lack of an underhood water seperator.

posted 07-21-2005 01:35 PM ET (US)            

1. Attach and run garden hose to flushing port.
2. Advance throttle to FULL fast idle warm up. (ie. full throttle, in neutral).
3. Start engine. Engine should just idle, System Check lights will stay illuminated. 15 seconds later Systems Check lights will shut off.
4. Move throttle to neutral idle. System Check lights will relight, and turn off.
5. Move throttle to FULL fast idle again. System lights will flash, and engine will run at fast idle. If not, try again from #1.)
6. Engine will run at fast idle for about 1 minute, then shut itself down.
7. Turn key off, detach hose.

posted 07-21-2005 10:16 PM ET (US)            

I'd think that the delivering dealer would want to prime the oil lines before he delivers the motor. Isn't that what the pre-delivery check out procedure calls for? (I am sure it does!)

Running the motor to prime the oil lines is not quite the proper approach.

posted 07-21-2005 10:35 PM ET (US)            

---
"If the oiling system has been serviced, or when rigging a new engine, the PRIME CYCLE must be used to fill the oil distribution system. This is found in the dynamic test functions of the diagnostic software.

--Supply water to the outboard;
--Start it;
--Choose PRIME OIL to start cycling the oil pump;

When the oil lines are filled, exit the oil prime mode by touching OK.

If the diagnostic software is unavailable, an alternative would be to activate the self-wintering mode to prime the system."
---

posted 07-21-2005 11:32 PM ET (US)            

Evinrude offers both a stand-alone 2" system Check Gauge (my shop retails $74.00) and a System Check Tachometer combo ($164.00). There is no way this shop has ever rigged an E-TEC on any boat. I chose the 2" because my Teleflex tach was compatible. $500.00?!?!?!?!?!

From all the info you have gained here I would say you are vastly more knowledgeable than the dealer...and they continue to give you the wrong information. Perhaps a call to Evinrude might help?

posted 07-22-2005 12:33 AM ET (US)            

I do not have a part number, but the gauges I have described are shown in my Operator's Guide on page 20 and the tach is listed as the "SystemCheck gauge with tachometer." These were given as my options as the standard gauges available. The Commander is an upgrade and offer many more features (speed, depth etc) than the basic gauges. Your dealer must know of these. If not, call Bombardier Recreational Products Customer Support Service at 1-847-689-7090.

Also of concern should be that the Operator's Guide states the following:

"IMPORTANT: Your outboard must be equipped with the SystemCheck engine monitor. Operating your outboard without the SystemCheck engine monitor will void your warranty for failures related to the functions monitored on your engine."

How long did you run the engine without the monitor? Seahorse should chime in here...

posted 07-22-2005 02:54 AM ET (US)            

It sounds like the dealer is getting it mixed up with the standard $169 SystemCheck tach with the 4 warning lites that has been in use since 1996.

Like was mentioned previously, you can also use an outboard tach and the $79 2" diameter SystemCheck gauge.

posted 07-22-2005 10:02 AM ET (US)            

I would call Evinrude as seahorse mentioned and ask them to further train the dealer you're working with. It disturbs me that this "factory authorized" dealer is not performing its duties properly. The end result can only be bad for BRP and its associated dealer network.

The next rant and rave I fear from the boating web community is "how bad the E-TEC product is" blah, blah, blah if the engine fails prematurely. The real culprit here is the lack of knowledge or caring by the dealer service department in your area.

posted 07-22-2005 10:17 AM ET (US)            

In addition to all the great advice already given, I highly recommend reading the owner's manual cover to cover! I rigged my own E-Tec on my Montauk a couple of months ago, and I read the manual before I unbolted the engine from the packing crate. I cannot believe that your dealer didn't rig a System Check guage. According to the owner's manual that came with my engine, running the engine without the Sytem Check guage voids the warranty!

After I rigged my engine (and before I ever started it), I brought it to the dealer to have it reprogrammed and have my rigging checked out. I inquired about the oil priming, and was told by the dealer to do the winterization procedure the first time it was started (this was also stated in my owner's manual).

If it was me, I would sit down with the service manager and thoroughly discuss all of these concerns with him. You've got alot of cash tied up in this, and you deserve to have the job done right, and be provided correct information.

Best of luck with this!

posted 07-22-2005 03:38 PM ET (US)            

Here are some of the options for system check:

--2" system check gauge. BRP Part no. 0177052
--3" Tech Series Tach with System Check Lights - OMC Part no. #176301
--System Check "black box" that emits beeps instead of lights. (Not recommended)

You may need an entirely new wiring harness, also. It sounds like your dealer is using an older harness with adapters. Rip it all out and use a OMC/BRP 20’ Wiring Harness. Part No. 176341 if this is the case.

Stay away from Faria gauges. I bought some for my E-TEC and ended up replacing with OMC/BRP gauges because I got weird readings.

If it helps, here is a list of parts I used when installing my E-TEC:

posted 07-22-2005 09:39 PM ET (US)            

Next was the System Check. He has the OMC combination Tach/System Check gauge which he will install plus the System Check "Black Box". Ratherwhalering--Why do you not recommend this? I will then have both visual and audible warnings. As I will have both of these systems he will install the upgraded wiring harness. The original binnacle mount control will still be used.

Just to satisfy my concerns of any possible damage during my 20 minute ride the engine will go through a full dianostics check to look for error codes and a good once over.

Thanks for all your help. As soon I have the Montauk back I will give you an update.

Cheers, B

posted 07-23-2005 03:42 AM ET (US)            

This thread is getting interesting, especially with your reports of the dealer's "explanations".

There is NO SystemCheck "black box".

SystemCheck only uses a gauge (tach or 2") with 4 warning lites and a driver that is commonly called a warning horn or buzzer. Those two items are your visual and aural indications of a malfunction.

The SystemCheck tach or gauge contains all the electronics for the engine warning system and the also provides the signal to make the "warning horn" sound off.

The driver or "warning horn" is NOT a 12 volt buzzer like pre-1996 models used. It looks like the old "buzzers" but operates like a stereo speaker that needs an electronic signal to make a sound.

posted 08-04-2005 08:28 PM ET (US)            

I'm still figuring out a comfortable cruising speed as the engine runs smoothly from plane to close to WOT. There is hesitation from 2000-3000rpm where it will sputter a little. From my reading this is the transition period. I wish I knew what size prop I'm turning but I can't find the size anywhere. This prop is the original from the the '85 90hp Evinrude. WOT is, with the engine trimmed, 37.0mph at 5100rpm clocked by GPS. Tried this once just to get an idea. For the most part I'm not going over 4000rpm until a few more hours.

I'm very happy and currently not looking forward to winter.