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Author Topic:   Rebuilt Outboard Motors

PTKPROD posted 02-09-2006 03:26 PM ET (US)
Hi All--If you had the choice to choose a Whaler with a 1992 motor with 700+ hours which had not been rebuilt, or a 1992 motor rebuilt in 2001 with 200 hours, which would you choose. Is a rebuilt motor a positive when looking at older motors? Or is it a negative? Or maybe it is neither. I need some advice from the more experienced in this area. Thanks--Peter
Buckda posted 02-09-2006 03:33 PM ET (US)
Peter--
To me, it would matter more what the compression was. For instance, the old motor that had not been rebuilt would be much more valuable if it had near-original compression. If it had weak compression; I'd know that my money would likely soon be going towards a rebuild.
I hope that helps a little.
Dave
fourdfish posted 02-09-2006 04:39 PM ET (US)
I agree with Dave. Since you don't know who rebuilt those motors. Of course if it was done right the rebuilt would be my pick.
andygere posted 02-09-2006 04:53 PM ET (US)
Rebuilt is a term that's used a lot of different ways. I'd ask to see the invoices for the work that was done. If the existing powerhead were actually rebuilt, that is parts replaced, machine work done, etc. by a local shop I'd be more nervous than if a new factory powerhead were installed. If the shop that did the work is local, talk with the mechanic to get a better idea of how much you may trust his work. 700 hours is not a lot for a 1992 motor, but it isn't brand new either. Look for signs of corrosion (trim motors, steering arms and tilt tubes can be prone to this) and the general cosmetic condition of the motor as well. Have the carbs been rebuilt, does the electrical wiring appear to be in good condition, is the skeg chipped or broken? Above all, carefully inspect the oiling system, and expect to replace hoses and/or tubing associated with it. A 10 cent bit of tubing ultimately led to the demise of my last outboard, which may have been prevented if I or my mechanic had simply replaced all the tubing as a matter of preventative maintenance. As others have said, do a compression test on all cylinders. There should not be more than 10% variance among them. Pull the spark plugs and look at the piston tops with a small flashlight. Look for big chunky carbon deposits, which if left untreated can cause ring failure or other damage. It's a bit of a crap shoot either way, and rather than generalize, look at all these criteria for each motor, factor in price and make your decision on all the information available.
PeteB88 posted 02-09-2006 06:05 PM ET (US)
Andy's advice is right on. Beware - best to see if you can talk to the mechanic who wrenched on it. Compression test should be done several different times (trials). Inspect the motor components very thoroughly - are they super clean or gooed up with crud? Check wiring. I just looked at a 1973 Johnson 20 hp my friend owns and it is just like brand new - unbelieveable and runs like it too.
Check for signs of RTV gasket material - although it's commonly used, I'd feel more comfortable with real gaskets not silicone - like to hear reactions to that. Look at the underside of the motor cover - you can tell a lot from it - is it full of gunk, grease, crud or clean? Does it look like something got hot and melted foam? look at the motor for signs of overheating. If it's gunky see if you can trace the source - fuel line, bad connection etc? Look for bits of wire insulation - mice are great wire strippers if they can get under the cover.
good luck
fairdeal2u posted 02-10-2006 06:03 PM ET (US)
700 hours that were well maintained, i.e. decarbonized regulary, waterpump replaced on schedule, and lubricated properly. That is not very many hours. Plenty of years left in that motor. I would pick it over the rebuilt.
You don't know how many hours the lower unit of the rebuilt motor has on it. The lower units are not cheap either.
Binkie posted 02-10-2006 09:39 PM ET (US)
I would look for a used motor from the midwest or Great Lakes Region. The motor probably has never seen salt water, and that is a big plus, and the boating season is short. (low hours).
jimh posted 02-11-2006 12:27 PM ET (US)
For some advice in assessing used outboard motors, see my article in the Reference section of the website:
Assessing Used Outboard Motors
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outboardCheck.html
A procedure for checking compression is described therein.
PTKPROD posted 02-13-2006 09:47 AM ET (US)
Thanks for all the great advice. Peter
coleman posted 02-14-2006 11:45 AM ET (US)
Check the website for ARG Marine in Florida. We bought a rebuilt 250 Yamaha and could'nt be happier...they rebuild all day long and warranty their work.

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Author	Topic: Rebuilt Outboard Motors
PTKPROD	posted 02-09-2006 03:26 PM ET (US) Hi All--If you had the choice to choose a Whaler with a 1992 motor with 700+ hours which had not been rebuilt, or a 1992 motor rebuilt in 2001 with 200 hours, which would you choose. Is a rebuilt motor a positive when looking at older motors? Or is it a negative? Or maybe it is neither. I need some advice from the more experienced in this area. Thanks--Peter
Buckda	posted 02-09-2006 03:33 PM ET (US) Peter-- To me, it would matter more what the compression was. For instance, the old motor that had not been rebuilt would be much more valuable if it had near-original compression. If it had weak compression; I'd know that my money would likely soon be going towards a rebuild. I hope that helps a little. Dave
fourdfish	posted 02-09-2006 04:39 PM ET (US) I agree with Dave. Since you don't know who rebuilt those motors. Of course if it was done right the rebuilt would be my pick.
andygere	posted 02-09-2006 04:53 PM ET (US) Rebuilt is a term that's used a lot of different ways. I'd ask to see the invoices for the work that was done. If the existing powerhead were actually rebuilt, that is parts replaced, machine work done, etc. by a local shop I'd be more nervous than if a new factory powerhead were installed. If the shop that did the work is local, talk with the mechanic to get a better idea of how much you may trust his work. 700 hours is not a lot for a 1992 motor, but it isn't brand new either. Look for signs of corrosion (trim motors, steering arms and tilt tubes can be prone to this) and the general cosmetic condition of the motor as well. Have the carbs been rebuilt, does the electrical wiring appear to be in good condition, is the skeg chipped or broken? Above all, carefully inspect the oiling system, and expect to replace hoses and/or tubing associated with it. A 10 cent bit of tubing ultimately led to the demise of my last outboard, which may have been prevented if I or my mechanic had simply replaced all the tubing as a matter of preventative maintenance. As others have said, do a compression test on all cylinders. There should not be more than 10% variance among them. Pull the spark plugs and look at the piston tops with a small flashlight. Look for big chunky carbon deposits, which if left untreated can cause ring failure or other damage. It's a bit of a crap shoot either way, and rather than generalize, look at all these criteria for each motor, factor in price and make your decision on all the information available.
PeteB88	posted 02-09-2006 06:05 PM ET (US) Andy's advice is right on. Beware - best to see if you can talk to the mechanic who wrenched on it. Compression test should be done several different times (trials). Inspect the motor components very thoroughly - are they super clean or gooed up with crud? Check wiring. I just looked at a 1973 Johnson 20 hp my friend owns and it is just like brand new - unbelieveable and runs like it too. Check for signs of RTV gasket material - although it's commonly used, I'd feel more comfortable with real gaskets not silicone - like to hear reactions to that. Look at the underside of the motor cover - you can tell a lot from it - is it full of gunk, grease, crud or clean? Does it look like something got hot and melted foam? look at the motor for signs of overheating. If it's gunky see if you can trace the source - fuel line, bad connection etc? Look for bits of wire insulation - mice are great wire strippers if they can get under the cover. good luck
fairdeal2u	posted 02-10-2006 06:03 PM ET (US) 700 hours that were well maintained, i.e. decarbonized regulary, waterpump replaced on schedule, and lubricated properly. That is not very many hours. Plenty of years left in that motor. I would pick it over the rebuilt. You don't know how many hours the lower unit of the rebuilt motor has on it. The lower units are not cheap either.
Binkie	posted 02-10-2006 09:39 PM ET (US) I would look for a used motor from the midwest or Great Lakes Region. The motor probably has never seen salt water, and that is a big plus, and the boating season is short. (low hours).
jimh	posted 02-11-2006 12:27 PM ET (US) For some advice in assessing used outboard motors, see my article in the Reference section of the website: Assessing Used Outboard Motors http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/outboardCheck.html A procedure for checking compression is described therein.
PTKPROD	posted 02-13-2006 09:47 AM ET (US) Thanks for all the great advice. Peter
coleman	posted 02-14-2006 11:45 AM ET (US) Check the website for ARG Marine in Florida. We bought a rebuilt 250 Yamaha and could'nt be happier...they rebuild all day long and warranty their work.