posted 09-28-2006 09:12 PM ET (US)        

thanks

posted 09-29-2006 12:10 PM ET (US)            

From what I remember this spring:

wiring harness $118, control cables $39 ea, Tach $149 and side control with key was $225. The main harness does everything and just plugs into the tach, controls, key, etc. You steering will fit.

posted 10-03-2006 01:28 AM ET (US)            

I find it difficult for dealers to give me part numbers and prices on things that i am trying to budget for. yes maybe i will not shop there but, who knows.

with one of the more popular topics being re-power i think it would be a good idea to have a list of was/is needed to repower in the reference section.

i understand that this is not a message board for motors and parts but think most guys would like it when its their time to pull the trigger on a new power.

my $.02

posted 10-03-2006 01:52 AM ET (US)            

1. Fuel supply line. Flexible tubing that supplies the engine with fuel, from a remote tank. It is available by the foot at most marine chandleries and is distinguished by its inner diameter. It must be USCG Type A1 to be alcohol and fire resistant. The fuel line is commonly secured to engine using the manufacturer’s “quick connect” fitting, or other in-line splice fitting, both of which are secured with circular crimps or clamps. Fuel filters and water separators may be added in-line with a primer ball down flow from the fuel filter/separator, and in a vertical position. For further reading, see:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/primer.html

2. Battery cables. Flexible wiring that supplies power from the battery to the engine for starting. The manufacturers commonly provide 4-6 feet of duplex (positive and negative) battery cable with the purchase of a new engine. It is also available by the foot at most marine chandleries and is distinguished by its thickness, referred to as “gauge”. Typically after the engine has started, these wires then supply power from the engine, back to the battery, for charging and powering accessories, such as instruments and running lights.

3. Wiring harness. If the engine is the heart of your whaler, this flexible, multi-functional bundle is your engine’s nervous system. It runs from the engine to the helm area. The wiring harness is specific to each engine manufacturer. It contains:
a. Ignition wiring, required to start and run the engine from a remote key switch (discussed below.)
b. Neutral safety wiring that prevents the outboard from being started “in gear”
c. Instrument wiring, which provides information about the engine’s operation to the instruments (discussed below.)
d. Trim/tilt wiring, although this may also be contained in a smaller, separate wiring harness.

4. Remote oil tank, oil supply line, and wiring (most larger 2-stroke engines). Many 2-stroke engines have a remote oil tank. These tanks provide 2-stroke engines with oil, which is used to lubricate the engine. Four-stroke engines have an internal lubricating oil supply and do not need these accessories. The remote oil tank typically has an oil supply line and a small, independent wiring harness that runs from the oil tank to the engine.

5. Throttle and shift cables. These semi-rigid cables have a solid outer sheath and flexible core wire. These cables bridge the span between the operator’s remote control (“control box”) and the engine’s transmission (“shift”) and throttle control levers. (“throttle”.) Collectively, these are referred to as “linkage.” While linkage is specific to each engine manufacturer, some generic cable adapter kits are available for both the engine and the control box ends.

6. Control box. This unit(s) allows remote control of the engine’s shift and throttle cables. It should have a concealed neutral safety switch that only allows the engine to be started when the control box shift lever is in neutral. It may also contain the trim/tilt switch, which allows the operator to raise and lower the engine. A trim/tilt switch may also be mounted as a stand-alone switch on the console. Both the neutral safety switch and the trim/tilt switch are connected to the engine via the wiring harness.
There are essentially two types of control boxes.
a. Dual-function controls. A single lever operates both shift and throttle. Two control cables are used, one for shift and one for throttle. Single-lever, dual-function controls are also available for twin-engine applications.
b. Single-Function Controls. One lever performs one function. (shift or throttle). The control usually has two levers (one for the shift and one for the throttle).

Modern single engine applications commonly use 1 dual-function control, while twin-engine applications commonly use 2 opposing dual-function controls.

7. Steering system. This system is used to turn the outboard engine form side to side, thus controlling the direction of the boat. There are three systems, cable/pulley, mechanical, and hydraulic. The cable/pulley system is not commonly used in modern applications, and will not be addressed herein. Mechanical steering consists of a steering wheel, helm box, push-pull cable(s), and hardware that allow you to connect your steering system to the outboard motor. A hydraulic system is used for large horsepower outboards, and gives the operator a greater mechanical advantage, and easier operation. It consists of a helm pump, which is connected to the engine-mounted cylinder, via flexible hydraulic hoses. The cylinder has hardware that allows connection to the outboard motor. The helm pumps hydraulic fluid through the hoses to control the cylinder.

8. Ignition switch. This is a remote, keyed switch that allows the operator to start and run the engine. It commonly has an integrated choke function, and is connected to the wiring harness. It can be found mounted in the control box or as a stand-alone unit on the console.

9. Warning horn. This is a remote alarm that signals the operator if there is a problem with the engine. It is typically located behind the instruments, and emits a loud, blaring signal. It is connected to the engine via the wiring harness, and can also be found in the control box.

Two additional categories are not always required, but are necessary to promote safety and functionality:

10. Instruments. There is a multitude of choices, options, and variations regarding instruments, however there are two main instruments that are accommodated in all wiring harness; the tachometer provides the operator with information regarding the engine’s RPM, and the trim/tilt gauge provides information on the static trim of the engine in relation to the hull. Newer engines and instruments can contain a multitude of engine performance data, using the wiring harness as a conduit for information. Sonar transducers, speedometers, and temperature gauges often use separate wiring conduits not contained in the primary wiring harness.

posted 10-04-2006 09:44 AM ET (US)            

It would be the same thing here with this message board. whaler owners could call the company, twin city marine, or whom ever, but why when you can come here and search for what parts and things have been done.

posted 10-04-2006 12:02 PM ET (US)            

Suzukis come with battery cables already installed. They also come with the steering arm and mounting bolts/nuts. They also come with a fuel line and bulb. They also come withcable fittings for the throttle and gas(not the cables though). They also come with an oil filter. The only things you need are the wiring harness, tach, controls, and cables. I think the 70 even comes with an alum prop but they might have stopped that, they did in 1999.

What I did to get the part #'s out of dealers was I called and asked about the parts and price. Then I said OK how long does it take to get them in? Then I said I will stop down to pre-pay so what are the numbers so YOU do not have to look them up again because I am not sure just when I am coming down, might be next week. They gave me the part numbers and I scanned e-bay for a few weeks. Luckily I got what I needed except for the wiring harness which set me back like $126 @ dealer. Next friggin week there was one on E-Bay for BIN of $59...DOOF!

posted 10-04-2006 05:55 PM ET (US)            

quote:

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I have most of the part numbers for the E-TEC. Now need to compare prices of everything before pulling the trigger.

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