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Author Topic:   1968 13 footer
haoleboy99 posted 10-03-2006 08:47 PM ET (US)   Profile for haoleboy99   Send Email to haoleboy99  
I just purchased an older whaler, 13, and will be restoring her this winter. What is the best sized engine for general purpose use for the boat. Primary use is as a tender and occasional cruise around the lake. Not sure if I going to go tiller or keep the remote and wheel for the boat.
erniemx5 posted 10-03-2006 09:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for erniemx5  Send Email to erniemx5     
I have a 1969 13ft which I just repowered with a 20hp Honda 4 stroke tiller (manual start). I'm still in the breakin period, but am getting about 25 mph with 2 people in the boat at about 80% throttle. I've removed the front seat and the side console steering, and with a short PVC extension on the tiller, I am able to run the boat from the back seat in the orignal position. I'm very happy with the Honda, and at 101 lbs is pretty light for a 4 stroke.
haoleboy99 posted 10-04-2006 07:27 AM ET (US)     Profile for haoleboy99  Send Email to haoleboy99     
That's faster than I thought you could get out of a 20hp. I'm leaning toward your method, removing the wheel based on engine controls and costs associated with it. I'm researching how small an engine can be and still have the remote option. I definitely won't be buying a 40HP.
haoleboy99 posted 10-04-2006 07:38 AM ET (US)     Profile for haoleboy99  Send Email to haoleboy99     
I have another question, can you use either a short 15" shaft or a 20" shaft outboard? How much performance issues will it make?
Binkie posted 10-04-2006 07:58 AM ET (US)     Profile for Binkie  Send Email to Binkie     
If you have a notched transom you need a short shaft motor, unless you want to convert your transom to use a long shaft outboard. Check the reference section, as there are many ways to do this, but in my opinion, I think the lower center of gravity of a short shaft mounted motor on 13 ft. boats, works best.
Rich
Florida15 posted 10-04-2006 09:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for Florida15  Send Email to Florida15     
25 mph with a 20 hp ? That's amazing. Are you measuring with a GPS, speedo or what ?
The Judge posted 10-04-2006 11:46 AM ET (US)     Profile for The Judge  Send Email to The Judge     
I would not think 25 is amazing with a 20. My 1982 flywheel rated 25hp would do just over 28mph(gps). In reality that old 25 is equiv to a new 20. I would buy a 20-30hp. My 40 is real heavy and without power tilt she will only do about 32. With power tilt and some good driving skills she will get just over 37 but there is NO way to obtain that with a tiller, nor would I recommend it. 25's are easy to find. New 2 smokes are like $2200, 4S about $500 more.
haoleboy99 posted 10-04-2006 12:31 PM ET (US)     Profile for haoleboy99  Send Email to haoleboy99     
Judge, What are your thoughts on shaft length on the 13?
The Judge posted 10-04-2006 12:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for The Judge  Send Email to The Judge     
A 1968 "should" be a 15" shaft unless boat has been modified. I would not buy a 20" unless I got a great deal and included in the price a $150 manual jackplate to mount it up higher with. You can not run a 20" on a 15" transom without generating poor performance and MUCH greater stress on that transom. Try sticking your hand down 5" while going 20mph and you will see why it is bad.
haoleboy99 posted 10-04-2006 01:04 PM ET (US)     Profile for haoleboy99  Send Email to haoleboy99     
Thanks, I appreciate the info.
erniemx5 posted 10-05-2006 04:05 PM ET (US)     Profile for erniemx5  Send Email to erniemx5     
Not to hijack your thread, but I'll tell you why I came to the 20hp conclusion. My application is for the most part fly fishing by myself in shallow water situations in NE Florida. Draft was one of my primary considerations. To make the boat as fly line friendly (clutter - free) as possible, I ditched the console and front seat....that was an easy decision. I also got a pair of Sitka Spruce oars from Ken at Barkley Sound oars which are absolutely gorgeous. I'm intending to use these (along with a 15' pole) instead of a trolling motor. So, I also thought that a 20hp would be a little on the underpowered side, but given the Honda reputation as STRONG motors, I was fixated on one of their motors. The 25hp (and 30 hp) as well, come in at 160lbs for the tiller vs. 101 lbs for the 20hp. In addition, the 20hp is a manual start while the 25hp only comes in an electric start model. So, when you add the weight of a battery to the equation, you’re getting close to 200 lbs, so again the 20hp tiller option in my particular case makes the most sense. Now, as to the 25 mph, I’ll admit that I was actually getting this number from a friend of mine who was pacing me in his boat, so not completely scientific, but at least in the same neighborhood. I’ll also confess that it was pretty much slick (mirror smooth) which presented the optimal conditions. In reality, since I’m coming from fishing out of a 16 ft Kayak (2 or 3 mph at WOT), anything over 20 mph is enough for me.
brisboats posted 10-06-2006 02:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for brisboats  Send Email to brisboats     
Unless you want to tube and ski rig it with a tiller motor 20-25hp and forgetaboutit. Boat is just as if not more fun, almost as fast and easier, more economical to own. Erniemx5 is right on once you add in the weight of the bigger motor, the console, extra gas,controls,steering cable and battery dropping 5-10hp to a motor that doesn't need all those things gives better trim, and similar performance because of the lighter weight. Sans all the clutter and mess in the transom. Colin Chapman of Lotus fame said "if you want speed add lightness" same therory applies here. Tiller,Tiller,Tiller!

Brian

haoleboy99 posted 10-07-2006 08:33 AM ET (US)     Profile for haoleboy99  Send Email to haoleboy99     
I do believe I'm leaning toward the KISS priciple on this boat and can always add the wheel back later on if I change my mind. I'll probably go with a 15 or 18 Tohatsu and keep it simple for now and add the controls and wheel if I want to.

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