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Author Topic:   Trimming a Whaler to offset a heavy motor
elaelap posted 02-15-2007 01:37 PM ET (US)   Profile for elaelap   Send Email to elaelap  
There's a guy over in the GAM forum asking about the efficacy of having a relatively heavy Honda 150 four stroke on a classic Montauk. This is a topic which often comes up. I suggested the following...what am I missing here?:
________________

"You know, one of the great things about our Whalers is their incredible positive floatation. You may lose a modest amount of top end, but if you like that motor but feel that the boat rides too low aft, just trim her up by adding a hundred pounds or more of lead (ingots or salmon weights) in the anchor locker forward. That'll bring your bow down and make her less sluggish getting up on plane.
I'm surprised that this solution is rarely discussed here, especially by folks interested in the heavier motors. I've done this in my 1988 Outrage 18--brought the two batteries up into the console and added a +/-70 lbs of salmon weights in a bucket on the starboard side of the cooler seat forward of the console, to offset the weight of my Yamaha 115 four stroke and the 8 hp Yamaha kicker I've got mounted portside, along with the kicker's 6-gallon gas tank in the splash well. My boat trims almost level at rest, and she jumps right up onto plane in a matter of a couple of seconds.

By the way, the only experience I've had with Honda outboards is with CW member Perry's sweet Outrage/Nantucket 190/140 Honda four stroke...that rig roars, let me tell you, and the motor is very slick indeed. I'd buy one in a sweet second."
__________________________

Isn't this a valid solution for you guys who like to mount real big motors on your 13s, 15s, 16s, Montuaks, or who want to mount twins on your OR 18s, etc ?

Tony

BOB KEMMLER JR posted 02-15-2007 01:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for BOB KEMMLER JR    
Or You could just run trim tabs or a stern lifting prop.I'd have to think it shouldn't be any problem to pop a boat on plane when being overpowered, regardless of the static trim. I think a lot of the guys here should take a look at the high performance boating sites. There are 15 foot boats with 250-300 hp outboards on them. They look as if they are about to take water over the transom at rest. LOL NONE of them seem to feel the need to put weight up front or have any problems popping right up on plane.
Buckda posted 02-15-2007 02:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Moving weight around in a small boat to achieve desired performance is not a new concept, nor do I think it is frowned upon on this site.

From time to time, vessels without trim-tabs will require the captain to order passengers from one side of the boat to another to balance trim in a heavy crosswind, or direct passengers to the bow of the boat from time to time to achieve plane.

However, this is normally understood to be a "temporary" solution to an occasional problem.

For a more frequent, though not permanent problem with planing or trim, the operator should try to be as efficient as possible in utilizing needed/necessary items aboard to acheive the desired trim characteristics. For instance, placing batteries in the console, or even moving lead downrigger weights or a loaded cooler forward when heavily loaded for fishing - these are items that can and will be used on the trip. For instance, I would not recommend taking 10 downrigger weights with two downriggers aboard. I can see bringing along a spare!

As far as a more permanent solution to a trim/performance problem, rather than carring around "dead" and useless ballast such as ingots or other non-essential weighty items, it makes much more sense to install a pair of trim tabs that can be used when necessary and will generally improve the overall ride of the boat rather than weighing down your vessel with useless items.

Tony -
I'm suprised you felt the need to offset the weight of a single 115 HP 4-stroke motor on your classic 18' Outrage. It seems that the hull can handle much more weight than what you are currently imposing on the transom.

More weight is just more weight. For instance - I don't think that by adding weight to the bow of my boat that I would raise the transom (i.e. increase the freeboard at the transom). Rather, I think it might "level" the boat off at a lower level - the transom would keep the same freeboard, but the bow area would lose freeboard clearance from waterline.

elaelap posted 02-15-2007 02:42 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
But that's just it, Bob. I think some of us who boat in lumpy conditions get a little concerned when our cutaway transoms are within an inch or two of the surface of the ocean--drifting or trolling slowly--and thus are very conscious of outboard motor weights when powering or repowering. I'm not really addressing racing boats here, but Boston Whalers. And I'm trying to figure out whether a motor which might otherwise be great for a particular Whaler hull, but is disregarded because of weight, couldn't be offset by simple trimming.

And sure, a grossly overpowered boat won't have much problem getting up onto plane, even if its resting trim has its bow waving in the air and its stern pressed way down in the water...but what about a Whaler which is powered within the specifications determined by BW but still has an overweighted transom? Yeah, that's when some folks start talking about Doelfins, etc. Wouldn't trimming the way I'm suggesting achieve the same goal, perhaps more in keeping with the design of the craft?

Tony

BOB KEMMLER JR posted 02-15-2007 02:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for BOB KEMMLER JR    
The problem with that method of trimming it down that i see is, now not only is the transom lower in the water, but the bow is also lower now. I know we weren't talking about racing boats here, but i think a lot of people are worried about nothing IMO. Once they see how far in the water some of those boats are, they won't be as concerned over an extra 50-100 lbs on the back. The specs given by Whaler are a good guideline to follow, but i don't think if you go over the Hp or weight that the boat is going to be unuseable or unsafe when driven with common sense.

Also think what would happen in some VERY lumpy water if that weight becomes dislodged and slides to the back of the boat?It could make a bad situation worse.All i can say is try it on your own boat and post the results.

RogerH posted 02-15-2007 02:59 PM ET (US)     Profile for RogerH  Send Email to RogerH     
I agree w/ Buckda that adding permanent weight to change boat trim creates its own problems, not to mention higher gas consumption -- but I do it anyway. The scuppers on my Dauntless 16 with a Yamaha 115 were below water at times and it wasn't uncommon to find myself standing in an inch of water when standing in the sterm to work a fish. I moved a couple of spare downrigger weights and other light equipment forward and that helped some. So one day I filled a couple of bags with sand (probably 60 - 80 pounds) and placed them at the bottom of the anchor locker as an experiment. It worked great and I've been too lazy to do anything else, plus the price was right. I'd love to have trim tabs but am not sure my wife will appreciate their value. While sand is less dense than lead weights, it molds well to the shape of the locker, it doesn't bounce around and it doesn't dramatically reduce the capacity needed for the anchor, chain and rode. Just be sure not to plug the drain. While the freeboard is obviously lower on average, the real difference is in trim/attitude. The bow is down some, the stern is up some and my feet are dry more often. OTOH, passengers used to ask, "are we sinking?", providing a great opening for my "unsinkable" lecture, so it hasn't been a perfect solution.
JMARTIN posted 02-15-2007 03:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for JMARTIN  Send Email to JMARTIN     
I got a bag of rocks in the bow compartment of 15 foot sport. It helps some. John
elaelap posted 02-15-2007 03:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
Dave,

I've become much more conscious about a boat's trim as I've moved into planning an eventual offshore voyage in a sailboat. There we're talking about literally thousands of pounds of additional weight being carefully distributed in one's boat to hopefully affect performance and seaworthyness as little as possible. I've seen passage-making sailboats so loaded down with food, fuel, water, and belongings that they've literally lost more than a foot of freeboard.

As for my OR 18, I made a couple of adjustments soon after repowering with my Yami 4/s. Whaler guru Joe Kriz drove the boat and didn't like the roostertail she was kicking up with the motor mounted in the bottom holes, so I raised it and the wake smoothed out. The new motor weighed almost a hundred pounds more than the old one, and I noticed that the portside-mounted kicker gave my boat a slight list to port when tied up at a dock. The batteries were already mounted in the console, so I put that bucket of lead salmon weights in a bucket in a cooler seat forward of the console and that seemed to balance the boat athwartwise a little better. Nothing really radical here, just a small adjustment that didn't really lower my freeboard any appreciable amount at all. My boat is almost level at rest, but I wouldn't hesitate to add weight in the anchor locker if she squatted there with her bow waving in the air.

Your classic beauty, Gambler/OR 18, might be a perfect example of what I'm talking about. I think you've done well mounting your twin E-TECs on Gambler's transom, and I envy your ownership of one of the sweetest Whalers at this website. But no offense, if it were my boat I'd at least try her out starting with maybe two hundred pounds of lead way up in the bow, in her anchor locker, and see what that would do with her trim and performance. We've got to remember that our boats have thousands of pounds of residual floatation, and a couple of hundred pounds of lead up there--while having a possibily dramatic effect on trim because of the long lever arm length from the motors' weight on the transom all the way up to the bow locker-- wouldn't really settle your craft very deeply in the water at all, I'd reckon. Anyway, easy enough to give it a try.

Tony

The Judge posted 02-15-2007 03:21 PM ET (US)     Profile for The Judge  Send Email to The Judge     
You guys kill me. Why not just stick your bud up front who weighs 200lbs and see how she performs? The ONLY reason I kept a small bucket of slipshot(30+lbs) in my anchor locker of my Newtauk was to keep the scuppers out of the water at rest so slime did not grow in my splashwell after repowering with my 4 stroke. A cinderblock would have worked too but I did not want to scratch her.
elaelap posted 02-15-2007 03:25 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
Here's what I mean about trim (I weigh 200 lbs, the motor around 400, the kicker around 70, kicker's tank & gas 40, and that nice salmon...spare my blushes):

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b309/elaelap/Whalerfamilysalmon025.jpg

elaelap posted 02-15-2007 03:28 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
Exactly my point, Nick. It's so easy to do, and I wonder why folks don't work it into their plans when agonizing about the weight of a motor or whether to mount twins.

Tony

BOB KEMMLER JR posted 02-15-2007 03:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for BOB KEMMLER JR    
Tony how does that picture show the trim of your boat? Or did you want to show off the fish you bought at the fish market? Maybe the boat isn't the one who needs weight moved around? ;o)
BOB KEMMLER JR posted 02-15-2007 03:37 PM ET (US)     Profile for BOB KEMMLER JR    
of course i'm joking too, nice fish.
elaelap posted 02-15-2007 04:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
You know me all too well, Bob ;-)
Buckda posted 02-15-2007 04:58 PM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Tony -

I really don't mind how my boat appears from a static trim perspective. It is a bit stern heavy, I realize this, but underway, it is not a problem except in certain sea-states when the bow can be a bit light. That is why I installed Trim Tabs (although they were on my list from the beginning, before I repowered her). The tabs take care of the rest, when sea conditions warrant it.

Incidentally, I also plan to add additional weight to my bow area, however it is going to come in the form of a camping/sleeping platform that levels the bow area flush with the ‘steps’. Built entirely out of teak, it is sure to “bring balance to the force” and hopefully will also bring peace to the galaxy and I can stop hemorrhaging money onto my Whaler. Talk about bloody decks!

As I said above - the weight of twin engines is what I consider to be a "permanent" problem, which requires a permanent solution - thus the tabs.

I do not consider lead shot or sandbags, no matter how effective, to be an adequate, permanent solution. The loose ballast solution is inappropriate - especially in heavy seas, for the reason that Bob pointed out above - you don't want weight shifting around on you while underway, nor do you want to have to rely on passenger placement (and them staying put in heavy seas) for the proper ride characteristics of your vessel. I would hope that is also something that is observed when loading a passage-making vessel.

If you were using them for temporary conditions (i.e. a fully loaded boat headed to the fishing grounds, etc) then that is fine.

Patrick F. McManus wrote a great book (outdoor humor) called "They Shoot Canoes, Don't They?" that has a chapter which details how "temporary measures often become permanent measures", (see: http://www.amazon.ca/They-Shoot-Canoes-Dont/dp/0805000305 for your copy), however, when this happens, it usually belongs in a "Pluggers" ( http://www.comicspage.com/pluggers/pluggers_about.html ) cartoon strip, not on a fully restored classic Boston Whaler boat.

I realize that "Pluggers" can and do own classic Whalers, and at times, I belong in the "Plugger" category myself, but the grand legend and tradition of Whaler has always been first-class solutions to problems, with improvisation left to the owner in times of crisis or need on the sea.

That probably sounds haughty, but allowing a temporary solution become a permanent fix does not appear anywhere in my definition of doing things first-class. At the very least, your Whaler deserves the owner’s best attempt at a permanent and viable solution, to the best of their abilities to provide it via purchasing or via personal fixes. These are boats that can withstand a lot of abuse, but in my view, they deserve TLC and care – they will continue to become collector’s items and soon, the best specimens will begin to appreciate in value, much like the ChrisCraft and GarWood boats of yesteryear. Your boat only needs to make it another 15-20 years!

Finally, “GAMBLER” certainly isn’t in the category of many of the boats featured here. She has a lot going for her, and the twin E-TECs are great, so long as the Gee Whiz factor is fresh, but I suspect that in a few years, she’ll take her rightful place in the midst of many fine rigs here on this site. I’m afraid that I can’t keep her as clean as some, due to her current storage facility, and she’ll never be a museum piece – my personal learning experiences at her expense and the evidence of those blunders will stay with her as testimony to that. The three things she has going for her in terms of standing out amongst others are that she is one of the few 18’s here with twin engines, she has an arch and is one of only a couple with a teak cockpit sole.

elaelap posted 02-15-2007 05:47 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
I'll bet you notice a difference in 'static trim' with the weight of that sleeping platform, Dave. As I said, it really doesn't take much weight on small skiffs such as ours to affect trim, positively or negatively. I used to cruise along for mile after mile on a calm day in my old feather-weight Katama, making small alterations in course by just shifting my weight a foot or two to one side or the other.

As to the permanent nature--or perceived lack thereof--of adding weight to the bow locker, I don't really see that as a factor. There's probably less chance of lead shot, fish weights, or a couple of lead ingots coming adrift than the same thing happening to your anchor and chain rode in the same location. I haven't even secured the plastic bucket with the weights I have in my forward cooler seat...I've just got it wedged securely over on the starboard side of the cooler. Never had a problem with it at all, even in the somewhat lumpy stuff all too common out here.

And spare me the modesty about your gorgeous old tart, Dave. With the teak decks, the canvas, the radar arch, the very cool bracketed twins, she's as sweet as they get, IMO. In fact, how about a photo or two right here when you get a chance?

Tony

Erik 88Montauk posted 02-15-2007 08:34 PM ET (US)     Profile for Erik 88Montauk  Send Email to Erik 88Montauk     
I use the wife and boy to weigh down the bow. I removed the cooler from in front of the console and fill the empty space with 2 marine beanbag chairs, 1 boy (6) and 1 wife (not 6).

This has allowed me to keep the battery in front of the splashwell and hang a motor 50lbs heavier then the original Suzuki without even feeling a difference. If anything it is a little bow heavy which is OK when the kicker is on it and the second anchor is near the stern.

Haven't been in it with the new motor and no wife yet, we'll see.

The Judge posted 02-15-2007 09:12 PM ET (US)     Profile for The Judge  Send Email to The Judge     
Man if I said I use my wife to weigh down the bow I would be much richer...aka..divorce :)

PS...In FL I think your wife can be 6 ;)

andygere posted 02-15-2007 09:30 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Tony, nothing personal, but I think adding a bunch of otherwise useless weight is kind of a dumb idea. It takes energy to move mass, and the more mass you have (such as lead shot) the more energy it takes to move it (at $2.69 per gallon). Why not just get a lighter engine? There are plenty of good ones out there.
elaelap posted 02-15-2007 11:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
I'll bet it doesn't take more energy to move an extra hundred pounds or so of mass forward than to overcome the resistance set up by trim tabs. Physicists?

Hey Andy...I'm perfectly satisfied with the motor I have on my boat. If you read my first post on this topic, I posed the question because it seems that folks are always conflicted about the weight of certain motors on certain Whalers. Trim with modest amounts of weight forward seems to be one solution.

Tony

SpongeBob posted 02-15-2007 11:51 PM ET (US)     Profile for SpongeBob  Send Email to SpongeBob     
Often I've heard on this site that the Revenge models can take more engine weight than their Outrage brothers due to the added weight forward as the result of the cabin structure. Really what is the difference in adding weight forward to help trim the boat and raise the transom in an Outrage when the same weight addition was provided buy the factory in the Revenge (probably without thought). As Tony, I was a sailor before I became a Whaler owner. Sailboat boat owners think nothing of adding weight to offset new equipment or weather conditions. Before the advent of computers builders often had no idea how a new design would sit in the water until it was launched. If it floated on its lines great. If it didn't, use ballast to trim it. That new genset causes the boat to list to port, trim it with an equal amount of weight to starboard. Many of our older harbors have reefs of ballast stones that were picked up or dropped off by sailing ships to trim the boats to their cargo. I'm not suggesting overloading, just triming.

Jeff

SpongeBob posted 02-16-2007 12:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for SpongeBob  Send Email to SpongeBob     
Nothing is useless if it performs a valid function.

Jeff

jimh posted 02-16-2007 09:22 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
In an ideal situation a small outboard boat which operates on plane would not have ballast weight added to correct trim problems. On the other hand, if 50-lbs of seldom-used gear stowed in the bow helps improve the ride, there is no harm done.

A boat builder would be severely chastised if they designed a Boston Whaler type boat with a hunk of lead molded into the bow to correct the trim.

davej14 posted 02-16-2007 10:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for davej14  Send Email to davej14     
This is such a simple idea I can't believe I didn't think of it. My Dauntless 14 is definitely stern heavy and when I fish standing in the back the scuppers eventually let in about two inches of water. I can't wait to try this in the Spring. thanks for the suggestion.
Buckda posted 02-16-2007 11:04 AM ET (US)     Profile for Buckda  Send Email to Buckda     
Adding ballast makes sense in a vessel that is powered by (free) wind.

In a vessel where the operator must purchase the energy used to propel the vessel, it makes less sense, since you will pay to push that weight around.

As I said before, if that weight serves another useful purpose aboard, then no harm, no foul. But if it's sole purpose is to balance your ride and is necessary at all times, you should consider a permanent solution by modifying the design of the boat.

The Trim Tabs allow you to modify the design of your hull in dynamic fashion, depending on your needs.

This is a rather simple solution if your trim problem is commmon and you don't generally need the extra weight for another useful purpose.

Maybe I need to get a fat girlfriend and make her ride in the bow.

davej14 posted 02-16-2007 03:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for davej14  Send Email to davej14     
The fat girlfriend might work, but trim tabs won't do much for me when I am drift fishing. I guess I could just add more chain to the anchor of maybe go on a diet.
Teak Oil posted 02-16-2007 08:29 PM ET (US)     Profile for Teak Oil  Send Email to Teak Oil     
Erik don't EVER let your wife hear you say you use her to weigh down the bow of your Montauk. You will be sleeping on the couch for a month lol.

Teak Oil posted 02-16-2007 08:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for Teak Oil  Send Email to Teak Oil     
Since I am a freak about getting all the performance I can out of my boat/motor, I absolutely refuse to add dead useless weight to my little boat to simply balance the trim. I also don't boat on the ocean with big swells and I understand Tony's reasons for adding the weight.

If I were in Tony's shoes I would simply run a bilge pump and accept a little water as a design "flaw" in the Outrage with its low transom.

Erik 88Montauk posted 02-16-2007 09:18 PM ET (US)     Profile for Erik 88Montauk  Send Email to Erik 88Montauk     
Teak, she knows I wrote that, she is quite understanding and somewhat used to me letting things come out of my mouth that should have stayed in my head.

Nick, I don't have experience but my understanding is that divorce does not leave one richer. Quite the contrary from what I am told.

Buckda and Dave, I'm not sure the girlfriend riding the bow needs to be fat, after all we are talking about adding some weight to the bow.

Overall I think the point is there are several ways to level yourself out with the new heavier motors. I don't think adding weight to the anchor locker is a bad idea but I think you should look at shifting the existing weight. After all, why add when you can just move it around.

andygere posted 02-16-2007 10:55 PM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Tony, my comments were general and not about your particular vessel.

As an engineer, I guess I just find a bow locker full of lead as a kluged and and rather inelegant solution. I do believe that for the best overall performance in a small outboard powered boat, the correct match of hull with outboard is the most critical thing to consider. Since there are plenty of good outboard choices out there, why not get one that works well with the hull you have? In the case of the classic Whaler hull, I would say that means selecting a motor or motors that are comparable in weight and power to what the designer had in mind when the boat was manufactured. Call me old-school, but I went through a lot of trouble to repower my boat with a motor that was a good fit on both weight and power, and it was the best decision I could have made. Static trim, performance, handling, etc. are ideal. This is just my perspective, and if folks want to fill their anchor lockers with lead and put overweight outboards on the back of a simple, elegant boat, who am I to object?

elaelap posted 02-17-2007 01:20 AM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
YIKES! Teak and Andy--I was just trying to help. I was directing my thoughts to those guys/gals who want to put motors on their boats that are 'too heavy' for the boat, the folks who want to 'overpower' their Whalers or those who prefer twins. I chose to repower with a relatively light Yamaha 115 four stroke, and I'm usually accused here of 'underpowering' poor old Cetaceous. I have absolutely no problems with fore-and-aft trim; the only lead weights I added were to counterbalance the slight list or heel caused by the weight of port-side mounted kicker. Please read my first post--I had just read a topic over in the Gam forum where a guy was seeking advice about buying a classic Montauk with a big Honda four stroke--he was worried about what the weight would do to the Montauk's trim, and I thought I might have a simple solution for those out there in CW land who are worried about the weight of large motors or twins.

I'm the guy who often advocates the use of relatively small motors on the smaller classic Whalers, remember? Motors spec'd as midrange by BW engineers and designers are just fine for my uses, as they seem to be for many of the commercial guys who use Whalers out here. I loved the fifty four stroke I had on my Katama 16, and I'm even more pleased with the combination of a 115 4/s with a classic OR 18. It's the speed merchants among us I was addressing with this topic, and most of the responses to my suggestion convince me that I should just leave well enough alone with that bunch ;-)

Anyway, some of you who have Whalers with their bows waving in the air and your splashwells full of water at rest or while drifting or trolling might want to try a little weight in the bow locker and see what happens...it's a lot easier and less expensive than buying a new motor, and you might just be surprised at how little it affects your speed and fuel consumption (having two batteries in my boat's console and an additional 70 pounds of lead in my cooler seat sure doesn't seem to have adversely affected either in a discernable way).

Oh Spring...whither art thou?

Tony

andygere posted 02-17-2007 01:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for andygere  Send Email to andygere     
Tony,
You are one of those guys who understands how to match the hull and the motor for the way you use the boat. Like you, I am in the "enough power" camp at only 83.3% of the maximum for my hull. The big upside is I can still do 41 mph and I never put the drain plugs in, so the boat self bails as the Lord intended.

I would advise any friend who was considering buying a Montauk rigged with an oversized Honda 4-stroke to pass on the boat. Performance issues aside, the aesthetic of a smart little skiff doing a wheelie with a cartoonishly enormous, bulbous, silver outboard on the back makes me cringe.

brisboats posted 02-17-2007 02:15 AM ET (US)     Profile for brisboats  Send Email to brisboats     
This thread remiinds me of what Porsche did to reduce the oversteer tendencies of the first 911's. You guessed it, lead in the nose. If a couple hundred pounds in the bow keeps your feet dry in the stern, load her up. My little com-pac 16 (same boat has been across the Atlantic)is full of concrete in a shoal draft keel. Ballast is ballast whether it be composed of lead, concrete or wife ;-).

Didn't Whaler themselves ballast the 31'er?

A set of bennett trim tabs with pump weighs about 55#'s.

Brian

Casco Bay Outrage posted 02-17-2007 11:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Casco Bay Outrage  Send Email to Casco Bay Outrage     
Tony -

I appreciate you starting this thread. This is helpful.

My 1991 Outrage 17 is stern heavy with a Yamaha 115 4-stroke. The max hp for the hull is 120. Maybe the 402 lbs (dry) of the motor is too much. With only 67 hrs on the motor a repower is not an option.

The issue of a stern heavy transom is a concern for me when coming off a plane; navigating really short, tall chop at slow speeds where I can ship a lot of water. I avoid backing down and if I have to, it is done very gently.

This spring I plan to move my battery and any other gear forward. If this doesn't help, I plan to add some weight to the bow.

Regards,

CBO

elaelap posted 02-17-2007 02:53 PM ET (US)     Profile for elaelap  Send Email to elaelap     
CBO,

I think you'll notice an immediate difference just by moving your battery(s) up into your console, plus you'll have both those great transom lazarettes for much-needed storage, which is sadly lacking on my classic OR 18. And by all means stick with that motor. I've got the same one on my Outrage and haven't had one bit of trouble in 750+ hours. Your relatively rare classic OR 17 is one of my all time favorite Whalers, by the way. I've been fortunate enough to cruise and fish on several occasions in one owned by CW member Marc/halibut hunter...what a sweet boat.

Tony

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