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Author Topic:   Evinrude Ficht, EMM Overtemp, Code 25

offshore825 posted 07-28-2007 07:07 PM ET (US)
Hello all. I have a 2000, 200hp Evinrude Ficht with low hours. The engine has new plugs, new fuel filters (x2), new batteries, and I just did the lower unit fluid. Also, full fuel and full oil. In addition, I recently did a compression test as part of the survey prior to purchasing the boat earlier this month.
My first time out on the boat resulted in a check engine light and the boat entering the S.L.O.W mode after about 2 hour of running at a wide range of speeds between idle and 3500 RPM. After about 10 seconds in SLOW, the light went off and the boat functioned as normal only to again 20 minutes later end up at this condition. I stopped and let the engine cool for about a hour and left for home -15 minutes after this cool down period and again the check engine light / SLOW is on and continues to frequently come on and then off again even at RPMs as low as 1500, resulting in having to idle all the way home. Note that the Check Engine light finally did come on and stay on which allowed me to get a code, this code being code 25, EMM Over temperature.
Looking at past discussions, I assumed that I had a blockage in the EMM cooling line. However, by disconnecting the water output on the EMM, I can easily blow air through. In addition, by disconnecting at the water evaporator the water hose between the EMM and the water evaporator, I can easily blow air through the EMM and out this hose, however cannot blow air through the EMM with the water evaporator connected. I also using a long rod was able to poke down through the EMM water pipe and there appear to be no obstructions.
The water coming out back of the engine comes out very fast and in a continuous stream. The temperature of this water when the check engine comes warm to the touch, but not real hot.
With my little engine experience I’m stuck at this point. Should I be able to blow air through the emm and through the water evaporator with ease (as right now I cannot.) Perhaps the water evaporator is plugged up?
If the water is coming out of the back of the engine, would this indicate that I have good water flow through the EMM, or is irrelevant?
Could this be a sensor failure? I would not think so just based on the fact that the longer on the water, the more frequent the check engine comes on.
Overall this issue has kept me stuck at the dock and the summer is passing by quickly - any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Peter posted 07-28-2007 11:15 PM ET (US)
A clogged cooling passage in the vapor separator cannister (its not a "water evaporator") will cause a Code 25 because its cooled in series with the EMM. Most likely this is your problem.
Here is how I have "backflushed" the vapor separator to clear it when the motor has pulled in some silt causing a clog (Check engine lite - Code 25). Take the left (port side) lower engine pan off (4 screws) to provide better access to the vapor separator. Disconnect both cooling hoses from the vapor separator. Also, disconnect the end of the cooling hose that is attached to the motor leg at the brass barbed fitting. You will use this hose to introduce water to each of the vapor separator fittings.
Now take the pointed end of a nylon tie strap that is about the same with as the inside diameter of the vapor separator fittings and poke around in the fittings of the vapor separator to dislodge anything that might be obstructing water flow at the fittings. Then with the motor tilted up, connect the lower hose to the lower fitting and pour water into the hose. Then move the hose to the upper fitting and do the same. Repeat this several times and then try poking the nylon tie strap again. At some point, if you are lucky and clear the obstruction, water should easily dribble out of the upper fitting when you pour water into the hose connected to the lower fitting. When the cooling passage is clear, it will not be difficult to blow air through the hose connected to either of the fittings (less effort than blowing up a fresh balloon).
seahorse posted 07-29-2007 07:16 AM ET (US)

Peter has some good advice there. But do NOT use an air gun to attempt to blow out the debris. Only a thin o-ring seals the water cooling chamber from the fuel chamber and it can be dislodged by too much air pressure. When that happens, water enters the fuel system and all sorts of expensive things happen.

In cases of severe blockages, also remove the brass hose fittings from the sides of the exhaust housing and blow out the cavities behind the threads.

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Author	Topic: Evinrude Ficht, EMM Overtemp, Code 25
offshore825	posted 07-28-2007 07:07 PM ET (US) Hello all. I have a 2000, 200hp Evinrude Ficht with low hours. The engine has new plugs, new fuel filters (x2), new batteries, and I just did the lower unit fluid. Also, full fuel and full oil. In addition, I recently did a compression test as part of the survey prior to purchasing the boat earlier this month. My first time out on the boat resulted in a check engine light and the boat entering the S.L.O.W mode after about 2 hour of running at a wide range of speeds between idle and 3500 RPM. After about 10 seconds in SLOW, the light went off and the boat functioned as normal only to again 20 minutes later end up at this condition. I stopped and let the engine cool for about a hour and left for home -15 minutes after this cool down period and again the check engine light / SLOW is on and continues to frequently come on and then off again even at RPMs as low as 1500, resulting in having to idle all the way home. Note that the Check Engine light finally did come on and stay on which allowed me to get a code, this code being code 25, EMM Over temperature. Looking at past discussions, I assumed that I had a blockage in the EMM cooling line. However, by disconnecting the water output on the EMM, I can easily blow air through. In addition, by disconnecting at the water evaporator the water hose between the EMM and the water evaporator, I can easily blow air through the EMM and out this hose, however cannot blow air through the EMM with the water evaporator connected. I also using a long rod was able to poke down through the EMM water pipe and there appear to be no obstructions. The water coming out back of the engine comes out very fast and in a continuous stream. The temperature of this water when the check engine comes warm to the touch, but not real hot. With my little engine experience I’m stuck at this point. Should I be able to blow air through the emm and through the water evaporator with ease (as right now I cannot.) Perhaps the water evaporator is plugged up? If the water is coming out of the back of the engine, would this indicate that I have good water flow through the EMM, or is irrelevant? Could this be a sensor failure? I would not think so just based on the fact that the longer on the water, the more frequent the check engine comes on. Overall this issue has kept me stuck at the dock and the summer is passing by quickly - any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Peter	posted 07-28-2007 11:15 PM ET (US) A clogged cooling passage in the vapor separator cannister (its not a "water evaporator") will cause a Code 25 because its cooled in series with the EMM. Most likely this is your problem. Here is how I have "backflushed" the vapor separator to clear it when the motor has pulled in some silt causing a clog (Check engine lite - Code 25). Take the left (port side) lower engine pan off (4 screws) to provide better access to the vapor separator. Disconnect both cooling hoses from the vapor separator. Also, disconnect the end of the cooling hose that is attached to the motor leg at the brass barbed fitting. You will use this hose to introduce water to each of the vapor separator fittings. Now take the pointed end of a nylon tie strap that is about the same with as the inside diameter of the vapor separator fittings and poke around in the fittings of the vapor separator to dislodge anything that might be obstructing water flow at the fittings. Then with the motor tilted up, connect the lower hose to the lower fitting and pour water into the hose. Then move the hose to the upper fitting and do the same. Repeat this several times and then try poking the nylon tie strap again. At some point, if you are lucky and clear the obstruction, water should easily dribble out of the upper fitting when you pour water into the hose connected to the lower fitting. When the cooling passage is clear, it will not be difficult to blow air through the hose connected to either of the fittings (less effort than blowing up a fresh balloon).
seahorse	posted 07-29-2007 07:16 AM ET (US) Peter has some good advice there. But do NOT use an air gun to attempt to blow out the debris. Only a thin o-ring seals the water cooling chamber from the fuel chamber and it can be dislodged by too much air pressure. When that happens, water enters the fuel system and all sorts of expensive things happen. In cases of severe blockages, also remove the brass hose fittings from the sides of the exhaust housing and blow out the cavities behind the threads.