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Author Topic:   Montauk 170 Trailer Upgrade

Traveller posted 08-24-2007 07:39 PM ET (US)
After many years of waiting and planning for the purchase of a new Montauk 170, my wife and I are finally ready to become serious about getting the boat. I am excited that the boat we get will be a new 2008 model with the raised console and livewell.
I am not at all excited by the trailer sold as part of the standard package by Boston Whaler, or any of the optional trailers they offer for the Montauk 170. I have spoken to several Boston Whaler dealers, and have learned that even the aluminum trailer upgrade will only have 13" tires. The speed those tires have to turn relative to the 17" tires on my truck worries me for the distances I tow a boat on any given day.
I pulled my old boat an average of 8000 - 10,000 miles each year, and expect to pull the Montauk 170 at least that far. I live in the mountains of North Carolina, a minimum of 75 miles (one way) from any lake large enough to use a boat the size of the Montauk 170. In addition, I absolutely love boating and fishing in salt water, so I take numerous trips to the coast of Floridafrom here. I believe that I need substantially more trailer than any offered by Boston Whaler. I have blown tires on the interstate while doing 65 mph, and had one wheel come off and roll into the woods when the bearings failed. I shudder to think what might have happened if I hadn't had a 2nd wheel on that side to hold up the boat.
In matching a boat/motor with a trailer, at what point does the trailer becomes a liability instead of an asset because of its load rating? I have spoken with several trailer manufacturers who will build a custom aluminum tandem-axle trailer with torsion axles, 14" wheels, and Kodiak brakes for the Montauk 170. The rating of these trailers is between 5000 - 6000 pounds. The Montauk 170 weighs a little over 2000 pounds with all equipment and a full tank of gas.
Considering the distance I tow a boat every year, would I be better off with a tandem-axle trailer specially built for the Montauk 170, or with a heavy duty single-axle aluminum trailer with 14" wheels and brakes?
WT posted 08-24-2007 08:15 PM ET (US)
I have a 2004 170 Montauk and agree that the weak link to the "packaged deal" is the trailer.
I used to regularly tow 220 miles round trip to get to the ocean. If I had known that I would be trailering that great of a distance I would have bought a heavier duty trailer.
I think I will stick with a single axle trailer when I replace my current trailer.
Warren
contender posted 08-24-2007 10:54 PM ET (US)
You only need a single axle trailer, but purchase a good one, do not buy a painted trailer, (does not last once it hits salt water). I have an old Horizon (galvanize) with rollers. Works great and no rust. However everyone seems to be going to float on type trailers, I think the best float on type is a boatmaster (south florida), not cheap...good luck
contender posted 08-24-2007 10:54 PM ET (US)
You only need a single axle trailer, but purchase a good one, do not buy a painted trailer, (does not last once it hits salt water). I have an old Horizon (galvanize) with rollers. Works great and no rust. However everyone seems to be going to float on type trailers, I think the best float on type is a boatmaster (south florida), not cheap...good luck
Chuck Tribolet posted 08-25-2007 12:07 AM ET (US)
You don't want a 5000 pound spec trailer with a 2000 pound
boat on it. It will be too stiffly sprung.

Chuck
HAPPYJIM posted 08-25-2007 07:39 AM ET (US)
You don't need a Dual axle trailer but with all that towing, I would want one. Have one made and have the springs matched to the load.
Aluminum is more desirable than galvanized.
Tires will run cooler on a dual axle.
HAPPYJIM posted 08-25-2007 07:41 AM ET (US)
Forgot to add.....
Dual axle trailers, unlike singles, are almost impossible to move by hand.
Traveller posted 08-25-2007 02:27 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the responses. I am leaning towards a heavy duty single-axle aluminum trailer. I will be pulling the boat with a Dodge Ram 2500 Turbo Diesel. Do I need to get brakes with such a tow vehicle? Also - has there been an improvement in oil bath hubs, or am I better off with Posilube hubs and grease?
Nauti Tauk posted 08-25-2007 05:29 PM ET (US)
I'm pulling a 170 with an F250 diesel on a Continental trailer without brakes.( 4 trips from Fla to Ga. and bk a year) This is the fourth Cont. I've owned and had very good luck with all of them. I recommend that whichever trailer you decide on you buy aluminum,larger tire upgrade, and add the Stainless steel package if offered, that way all the fasteners will be stainless. With a smaller tow viehicle brakes would probably be needed (disk).Bearing Buddy brand wheel lube units have also served me well on all the trailers. Most major manufacturers build top quality alluminum trailers. I'm old school and "brand loyal" I guess....

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Author	Topic: Montauk 170 Trailer Upgrade
Traveller	posted 08-24-2007 07:39 PM ET (US) After many years of waiting and planning for the purchase of a new Montauk 170, my wife and I are finally ready to become serious about getting the boat. I am excited that the boat we get will be a new 2008 model with the raised console and livewell. I am not at all excited by the trailer sold as part of the standard package by Boston Whaler, or any of the optional trailers they offer for the Montauk 170. I have spoken to several Boston Whaler dealers, and have learned that even the aluminum trailer upgrade will only have 13" tires. The speed those tires have to turn relative to the 17" tires on my truck worries me for the distances I tow a boat on any given day. I pulled my old boat an average of 8000 - 10,000 miles each year, and expect to pull the Montauk 170 at least that far. I live in the mountains of North Carolina, a minimum of 75 miles (one way) from any lake large enough to use a boat the size of the Montauk 170. In addition, I absolutely love boating and fishing in salt water, so I take numerous trips to the coast of Floridafrom here. I believe that I need substantially more trailer than any offered by Boston Whaler. I have blown tires on the interstate while doing 65 mph, and had one wheel come off and roll into the woods when the bearings failed. I shudder to think what might have happened if I hadn't had a 2nd wheel on that side to hold up the boat. In matching a boat/motor with a trailer, at what point does the trailer becomes a liability instead of an asset because of its load rating? I have spoken with several trailer manufacturers who will build a custom aluminum tandem-axle trailer with torsion axles, 14" wheels, and Kodiak brakes for the Montauk 170. The rating of these trailers is between 5000 - 6000 pounds. The Montauk 170 weighs a little over 2000 pounds with all equipment and a full tank of gas. Considering the distance I tow a boat every year, would I be better off with a tandem-axle trailer specially built for the Montauk 170, or with a heavy duty single-axle aluminum trailer with 14" wheels and brakes?
WT	posted 08-24-2007 08:15 PM ET (US) I have a 2004 170 Montauk and agree that the weak link to the "packaged deal" is the trailer. I used to regularly tow 220 miles round trip to get to the ocean. If I had known that I would be trailering that great of a distance I would have bought a heavier duty trailer. I think I will stick with a single axle trailer when I replace my current trailer. Warren
contender	posted 08-24-2007 10:54 PM ET (US) You only need a single axle trailer, but purchase a good one, do not buy a painted trailer, (does not last once it hits salt water). I have an old Horizon (galvanize) with rollers. Works great and no rust. However everyone seems to be going to float on type trailers, I think the best float on type is a boatmaster (south florida), not cheap...good luck
contender	posted 08-24-2007 10:54 PM ET (US) You only need a single axle trailer, but purchase a good one, do not buy a painted trailer, (does not last once it hits salt water). I have an old Horizon (galvanize) with rollers. Works great and no rust. However everyone seems to be going to float on type trailers, I think the best float on type is a boatmaster (south florida), not cheap...good luck
Chuck Tribolet	posted 08-25-2007 12:07 AM ET (US) You don't want a 5000 pound spec trailer with a 2000 pound boat on it. It will be too stiffly sprung. Chuck
HAPPYJIM	posted 08-25-2007 07:39 AM ET (US) You don't need a Dual axle trailer but with all that towing, I would want one. Have one made and have the springs matched to the load. Aluminum is more desirable than galvanized. Tires will run cooler on a dual axle.
HAPPYJIM	posted 08-25-2007 07:41 AM ET (US) Forgot to add..... Dual axle trailers, unlike singles, are almost impossible to move by hand.
Traveller	posted 08-25-2007 02:27 PM ET (US) Thanks for the responses. I am leaning towards a heavy duty single-axle aluminum trailer. I will be pulling the boat with a Dodge Ram 2500 Turbo Diesel. Do I need to get brakes with such a tow vehicle? Also - has there been an improvement in oil bath hubs, or am I better off with Posilube hubs and grease?
Nauti Tauk	posted 08-25-2007 05:29 PM ET (US) I'm pulling a 170 with an F250 diesel on a Continental trailer without brakes.( 4 trips from Fla to Ga. and bk a year) This is the fourth Cont. I've owned and had very good luck with all of them. I recommend that whichever trailer you decide on you buy aluminum,larger tire upgrade, and add the Stainless steel package if offered, that way all the fasteners will be stainless. With a smaller tow viehicle brakes would probably be needed (disk).Bearing Buddy brand wheel lube units have also served me well on all the trailers. Most major manufacturers build top quality alluminum trailers. I'm old school and "brand loyal" I guess....