posted 09-29-2007 08:56 PM ET (US)        

-1986 Montauk
-90HP E-TEC
-CMC 5.5-inch Manual Power Lift (ML-65)
-Baystar Hydraulic Steering

My concern is that the engine will not have enough clearance to tilt forward all the way without the Baystar cylinder hitting either the top of the transom or some part of the jackplate. I realize that the jack plate affords the opportunity to adjust these variables a bit, but can I still run the engine's anti-cavitation plate even or 2" higher than the keel while still allowing clearance for full engine tilt? Trying to get this all figured out before the upcoming re-power. Should I just expect the mechanics to be able to figure this out? I'm trying to take everyone's experiences here and combine them to create the ideal setup. ratherwhalering's setup in particular, though he has the CMC brackets I believe.

Thanks everyone!

posted 09-30-2007 09:54 AM ET (US)            

I'm not too familiar with the various jack plates, and set back brackets, so hopefully someone else can enter in here. It does appear though, that the inches of motor set back, provided by using any bracket or jack plate, would only increase the available clearance. Again, I may be wrong.

Here's that thread:
http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/014865.html

Hope this helps.

posted 09-30-2007 11:23 AM ET (US)            

You might acquire this drawing as one more piece of information to help you piece the puzzle together.

posted 09-30-2007 07:31 PM ET (US)            

Thanks for that link, that helps. I know that without the jack plate, the baystar cylinder will tilt into the splash well without any clearance issue at all. What I'm concerned about is the 5.5" horizontal surface of the jack plate being in the way when tilted forward. I've scoured the Teleflex website and have seen all the documentation on the Baystar unit. Does anyone know where I could find the dimensions of an E-TEC? With those dimensions, I should be able to figure out exactly what I need to do. I'm sure this setup will work, I just need to know what holes should be used to mount the motor to the jack plate. I'm assuming that if I mount the engine higher on the jack plate, then there should be no clearance issues . . . But you're correct TexasWhaler, I think you get 1/2" of vertical rise for ever 1" of setback. So that would allow me to raise the engine up about 2.75" with the same cav-plate/keel alignment, but I need 5" up and 6" into the splash well. Again, with the E-TEC dimensions, I'd have all the measurements needed to calculate it. I'm probably just over thinking this whole thing. I'm sure it'll be fine. I'm always overly careful when doing anything to my Montauk, I do love it so . . .

Thanks guys!

posted 09-30-2007 10:58 PM ET (US)            

With the top of the CMC jack plate mounted flush with the top of the transom, the engine mounted one hole up (bolt in second hole from the top) on the jackplate, the Baystar cylinder did hit the top of the jack plate (part of the bracket that the engine is mounted on) when I tilted the engine all the way up. That was when the engine was in the center or straight steering position. If I turned the wheel all the way to the left or right there was just enough clearance to fully tilt the engine without the steering cylinder hitting the bracket.

Mounted in that configuration there was plenty of verticle adjustment on the jackplate. I think I had the antiventilation plate about 2.5 inches above the keel of the boat and could have gone up at least another 2 inches.

If you mount the engine two holes up (bolt in third hole down from the top) the engine will tilt full up and the steering cylinder will not hit the bracket. I do think there will be plenty of vertical adjustment left to position the anti-ventilation plate where it needs to be. One hole of adjustment equals about 3/4 inch up or down.

These are photos of the E-TEC "reinstallled" on my Menemsha using the third hole up position. Plenty of room for the cylinder when the engine is tilted, and plenty of adjustment left on the jack plate to lower the engine down.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/rtkenny/IMG_0271.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/rtkenny/IMG_0270.jpg

This is a photo of a 90 Johnson, standard steering, two holes up, antiventilation plate about 2 inches above the keel. If that engine was moved up one hole, there is still plenty of adjustment on the plate to bring it down the 3/4", or back to 2 inches above the keel.

http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/rtkenny/?action=view& current=IMG_0276.jpg

The engine was that low because I was running a plain old aluminum propeller. You can get her up another inch or so with a decent stainless propeller from what I understand.

posted 10-01-2007 12:24 AM ET (US)            

Thanks for posting those pictures! That answers my questions exactly. From what I've read, the distance from the bottom of the e-tec's mounting bracket to the anti-cavitation plate is about 22". The Montauk's transom is 20". So you would need to raise the engine 2" to get the anti-cavitation plate even with the keel. 4-5" to get it to the sweet spot of 2-3" above keel. So third hole from top is the cure. So on another note, Rich, is there anything you would change if you could do it over again? I'm hoping that the Baystar helps clean up the back of the boat a bit. I hate the big starboard side arc that the cable steering has to run in. Initially I was going to put it on the 4" CMC setback bracket, but thought that adjusting the height would be easier with the Power Lift. Too bad they don't make a 4" or 3" Power Lift.

Thanks again Rich!!

posted 10-01-2007 08:08 AM ET (US)            

I ran the 1966 16 hull with the E-TEC for about 12 hours last fall. Really liked the set up. The only thing I was going to change was the engine mounting height so the cylinder cleared the jack plate and add a stainless propeller.

Never had the opportunity to run the set up on the Menemsha. Sold the engine before I had a chance to launch her.

I would do the installation a bit different though. Bolt the plate and the engine up to the boat with no sealant on the bolt holes first. Check all the engine height adjustments to make sure you have adequate room to play and tweak her. Then bolt the plate up to the hull with the sealant. I winged it on my first attempt and just sealed the bolts up. Got it pretty much right, but got a bit lucky.

Your really going to like the set up, she runs real nice with the set back bracket, and the E-TEC is fantastic. Hold on to your hat and make sure everyone is sitting down when you crack the throttle. Good luck with it.

Rich

posted 10-01-2007 01:24 PM ET (US)            

Ratherwhalering, so your gut tells you that I would have enough room with the brackets for the required 5" vertical clearance for the baystar cylinder? Mount engine 3 holes up?

I'm am itching to get that E-TEC on the boat, have been looking forward to this since the E-TEC's release. Now that they have the I-Command gauges working with the 90HP, it seems like it's time to take the plunge. Thanks again everyone, especially jimh! What an asset he has built for us all, in continuousWave!

posted 10-04-2007 12:52 PM ET (US)            

You have to be aware that you will not get full tilt of the motor with the set back brackets without the hydro cylinder hitting. On the ETEC there is a tilt limiter on there, its in the manual, once adjusted you are good. MAKE sure you adjust it. I will shoot some pics of it this weekend and email to you.

my motor is mounted on the 3rd set of holes while the bracket is almost bottomed out. I had a tough time getting the motor on the second set but doesnt matter because there is adjustment on the set back plates.

posted 07-19-2008 04:41 PM ET (US)            

1987 Montauk
2009 90 hp E-tec SS series
Baystar hydraulic steering
CMC ML-65 Jack Plate
13.25 x 15p Stiletto Advantage I stainless prop.