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ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
SPORT 15, E-TEC 60
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ContinuousWave Whaler Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Whaler Performance
SPORT 15, E-TEC 60
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| Author | Topic: SPORT 15, E-TEC 60 |
| captngrander |
posted 10-12-2007 01:26 AM ET (US)  
I have a [Boston Whaler SPORT 15] that I have just repowered with a Evinrude E-TEC 60-HP. I have had the boat out twice and have put five hours on the new motor. I am very pleased with the installation and the way the boat sets in the water. The old motor was a 1982 Evinrude 70. I was a little disapointed in the top speed of the boat witht the new motor. The GPS read 33.6-MPH at wide-open-throttle speed, and the tachometer read 5,500-RPM. The propeller is a 13.5 x 15 aluminum three-blade. There was about 1-MPH difference with me alone and with one passenger. I was hoping for a top speed of around 38-MPH with a single person on board. I have played with the tilt and trim on the new motor and it works very good. It will allow the boat to go from a very controled plane to a lot of chine walking. [Seeks] any ideas [for] different props to try. If anybody has any questions regarding the re-power feel free to ask, I'll try to ansewer them as best as I can.--Greg |
| Peter |
posted 10-12-2007 08:09 AM ET (US)
I would try a 17 inch pitch version of the same propeller and see how it goes. I don't know whether the E-TEC 60 has a hard rev limit at 5500 RPM but it could be that your motor is banging into the rev limiter and if so, you'll need more pitch to maximize the speed.
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| ryland |
posted 10-12-2007 01:10 PM ET (US)
2005 150 sport, 60hp mercury bigfoot 4 stroke, top speed 37mph. |
| seahorse |
posted 10-12-2007 02:40 PM ET (US)
The 60 E-TEC has a redline of 6000 rpm and an operating range of 5500-6000. Full horsepower is at 5750. |
| Buckda |
posted 10-12-2007 05:58 PM ET (US)
Check the height of the engine - the cavitation/anti-ventilation plate should be about 1-2 inches ABOVE the lateral plane off the keel of the boat. Running too low can decrease your speed and RPM's. Good luck. Dave |
| Peter |
posted 10-12-2007 06:43 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the info Seahorse. Capt -- With the numbers you've reported, the CW propeller calculator says that you are getting NEGATIVE 15 percent slip with that propeller which is impossible. Thus, I suggest that you check the tachometer settings (typically a switch on back) to make sure that the tachometer is set correctly for the two cylinder E-TEC because I think its not reading correctly and your motor is banging with an under pitched propeller into the rev limiter thereby limiting the top speed. With 60 HP on the Classic 15, you should be able to reach about 39 MPH. Again, using a typical 6 percent slip at WOT and 6000 RPM WOT, that suggest that the right pitch for that configuration is about 19 inches. Thus, I also suggest that you borrow from your dealer a 17 inch and a 19 inch version of the same propeller you have and try running the boat with both. As a frame of reference, I had a 15 SuperSport with a 48 Johnson SPL (50 HP) that would run 36.5 MPH at WOT with a 11 3/4 x 17 inch propeller. The gear ratio on that motor was something like 2.42:1 and on your 60 E-TEC, the gear ratio is 2.67:1 which means that it should be turning at least a 17 inch if not a 19 inch propeller. Hope this helps. |
| jimh |
posted 10-12-2007 07:29 PM ET (US)
I had a SPORT 15 with a 50-HP 1976-era motor, so it was not propeller shaft rated. I could get about 33-MPH at best. You can see my data at http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/prop2.html If you figure 45-HP propeller shaft, and use that as a basis, you should see about 38-MPH with 60-HP. So I agree with your estimate of performance prediction. |
| captngrander |
posted 10-13-2007 01:45 PM ET (US)
[T]hanks for the info[rmation] on the E-TEC. It sounds like I should try a 17 pitch propeller. Should I be getting 6,000-RPM from this motor with the right prop? I have checked the tachometer and it is set up right. [W]ill increasing the pitch cause the RPM to drop and speed to increase? It is raining this weekend out here so I can't get out this week to try another propeller. I am sure I can borrow one from my dealer. Should I try the 13.5x17? Thanks, Greg |
| jimh |
posted 10-13-2007 02:04 PM ET (US)
A 2-inch decrease in pitch will cause a 450-RPM increase in engine speed and vice versa. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 10-15-2007 11:42 AM ET (US)
60 should fetch you low 40's if set up right. My 2cyl 60hp Johnson swung a 19" SST at 6k and would break 40 no problem. my 3cyl 70 would hit 46-48 at 6k. |
| Peter |
posted 10-15-2007 12:20 PM ET (US)
I replaced the Johnson 48 that ran to 36.5 MPH consistently at WOT with a Yamaha 70 2-stroke that ran the boat up to 43 MPH at WOT at 5900 turning a 13 x 19 Yamaha aluminum trimmed up to nearly out of control. Both of these motors were mounted with the engine bracket resting on the transom. With the typical "all the way down" motor rigging that you find on most classic 15 hulls, 39 to 40 MPH is a realistic speed for 60 HP. With that in mind, I would try the 13.2 x 19 aluminum propeller (Part No. 763464) first and if that doesn't turn close at least 5800 RPM, drop down to the 13 1/4 x 17 (Part No. 763463). |
| Litey |
posted 10-15-2007 07:48 PM ET (US)
I 've got a 15 Supersport with 2 Stroke Yammie 60 Bobs JAckplate at only 2.5 lift ( all the way down ) with Stainless Stiletto 17" pitch Goes to 38 mph / 5050 Rpm --- punched no trim Add trim goes to 39.6 mph / 5200 . I think I need to raise it up another inch ...??to go over 40 .... |
| captngrander |
posted 10-16-2007 01:23 AM ET (US)
I was talking to my dealer today about going to a different prop. mainly a 13.25x17 3 blade alum. He was concerned about lugging the engine to get the additional speed. The rev limiter is set for 6000 rpm. So I am not hitting the rev limiter at 5500 rpm. He says the ideal revs are at 5500 rpm. It seems to me that if I decrease the dia by a quarter of an inch and increase the pitch by two inches I would not be getting any additional revs. I am wondering if the 2 cylinder eng has the torque to push the higher pitch props efficiently. This is all kind of new to me,and I thank all of you for your much appreciated knowledge and wisdom. thanks, |
| Peter |
posted 10-16-2007 07:33 AM ET (US)
Greg - As I mentioned before, the numbers that you have posted are outside of the expected range. If the tachometer was reading 5500 RPM and your speed was 33.6 MPH with a 15 inch propeller, the propeller calculator suggests a NEGATIVE 15 percent slip. That means the boat was going about 20 percent faster than what would be expected with the engine only turning 5500 RPM. Ordinarily 6 to 10 percent POSITIVE slip is expected from a propeller at WOT. Thus, I suspect that one of the inputs that you have given us, namely tachometer reading, speed or propeller pitch, could be wrong. Since the propeller pitch is probably not the problem and you tell us that the tachometer is correctly set so its reading accurately, then speed is the only thing left and leads me to wonder whether the speed you are reporting is really in nautical MPH (NMPH) rather than statute MPH. It so happens that 33.6 NMPH works out to 38.6 MPH. Unfortunately, however, that doesn't help with the propeller calculator because going 38.6 MPH at 5500 RPM with a 15 inch propeller turned through a 2.67:1 gear ratio would require 7700 RPM at the powerhead. I doubt that the EMM would let the 60 E-TEC rev that high. Play around with the propeller calculator at www.continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/propcalc.pl and see for yourself how something is out of range here. |
| captngrander |
posted 10-16-2007 08:13 PM ET (US)
peter I have checked the following: The tach was checked, the prop numbers on the prop are 13.5x15, the speed setting on the gps is set for statute miles. The things I cannot check right now is the actual speed and the rpm. I will do this as soon as I can get back out on the ocean. Again thanks for the help . Greg |
| L H G |
posted 10-18-2007 10:03 PM ET (US)
Based on the many complaints I have read here about disappointing top end performance from the E-tec 40, 50 & 60 HP 2 cylinder engines, I am beginning to think they are "gutless wonders". Doubt if props, even by Mercury, can help. "2manyboats", if you are reading here, I would skip that 60 Etec you are being sold, and go right for the 75 HP model. |
| captngrander |
posted 10-18-2007 11:27 PM ET (US)
you are right about one thing... There is no substitute for raw horse power. The problem is that a 75 hp is the wrong hp for the 15 sport whaler. it is only rated for 70 hp, The 60 e-tec is a gutsy motor for a sixty horse. It has a hole shot as good if not better than my old 70 hp Evinrude. It is a tad slower, but I think that problem can be solved, through trials and time. After all, who can run at 40 mph in a 15 ft whaler in even 2 ft seas. I don't need beatings like that. Out here on the pacific coast where I run my whaler, you are lucky to cruise at 20kts. I think what it boils down to, is that, WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO USE THE BOAT FOR. after all, no one thing is perfect for every application. Life is a compromise. In my opinion, the 60 e-tec has its pro and cons. I think the motor has more pros than cons for the 15 sport. It's weight is good, it is fuel efficient, it uses very little oil,it has a 70 hp lower end,I can use it on any lake here in cal because of the good emission standards built into the motor,good warranty, very little maintenance, I could go on here, but these are just some of the the reasons I chose the e-tec, not for just the speed. It gets the job done in very remote locations in Mexico and offshore islands which I fish, there is no room for error. oh yeah, I almost forgot the cons, It won't go forty and It doesn't have a Mercury prop Greg |
| boatinpete |
posted 10-21-2007 09:21 PM ET (US)
Capt,try a stainless prop if you can,Yes I am a bassboater, had seven diff. boats.Everytime I put on a stainless have always seen consistent 3-5 mph gains on al the boats with always better holeshot.I can never understand for the life of me why guys pay huge dollars for a boat but have a chinsy aluminun prop,like having a race car with bald tires or jogging with work boots.oh yeah,seven boats but still got same wife! |
| inlandwhaler |
posted 10-26-2007 06:14 PM ET (US)
I just put a new 60 E-Tec on my '87 SSL. Top speed is 36 mph (gps), WOT @ 6,000 rpm, trimmed out in calm water. Prop is an aluminum 13.25 X 17. The engine runs great and so far no problems with about 15 hours on it. |
| Peter |
posted 10-26-2007 06:24 PM ET (US)
Inland -- If I had your rig, I would give a 19 inch pitch propeller (same type) a try. |
| inlandwhaler |
posted 10-26-2007 09:24 PM ET (US)
I'd like to try the 19" pitch. With the 17 I can actually get a bit over 6000 rpm if I trim way up. I would like to get where I max out at something under 6000, say around 5750 or 5800 rpm, which is the middle of the maximum operating range of 5500 to 6000 rpm. Would the increase in pitch to 19" give a faster WOT speed even with a lower rpm? When I plug my current values into the calculator I get a slip of <1%, so I'm not sure if I can use it to predict speed using a 19" pitch. |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 10-27-2007 01:14 AM ET (US)
Captgrander, first off, your mistaking chine walking with porpoising, chine walking is side to side rocking at high speed [ not 33 mph ] , porpoising is back to front or front to back rocking. Secondly [ new word ] I believe your engine is mounted to low, so before you even think of changing props, you need to raise it up at least 1 set of holes, & I'll bet 2 sets of holes will fit the bill. Your engine is rated to 6000 rpms,so raise the engine & than prop it so it reaches 6000 rpms. If that engine is rated to 6000 rpms, the rev limiter wont kick in till about 6200 or 6400 rpms, certainly not 5500 rpms. I really really doubt a 60 hp can swing a s/s 19p to 6000 rpms. My thoughts are, a 17p prop with the engine mounted up on the 3rd set of holes. I think the tach is fine, but the engine has to go up, & get rid of that aluminum prop. If you go with a Stiletto, your going to need a 15p prop, not a 17p. Sal |
| Peter |
posted 10-27-2007 08:57 AM ET (US)
Sal -- The reason I think it might be able to swing a 19 inch pitch is that the 2-cylinder E-TEC uses a 2.67:1 gear ratio. If Inland can turn the 17 to 6000+ then its worth trying a 19 inch pitch. That boat should be able to reach about 39 MPH at WOT with a 60. Inland -- If you assume that the 19 inch pitch prop will drop 300 RPM off of WOT, the motor should be able to turn it about 5800 and using the same 0.5 percent slip for the same prop, top speed should be close to 39 MPH. The only way you'll know is to try it and see if this prediction holds. |
| captngrander |
posted 10-27-2007 11:07 PM ET (US)
Hi guys, Sorry I took so long to get back to you guys. It has been a little busy here in Fallbrook these last few days. Fires everywhere. We had to evacuate Last Monday.. The Whaler was the first to go!!!!!!!!!! The good thing is we did not loose our house, family, or pets. I do not want to go through that again.. anyway back to the whaler. I took it out today, just to get a breath of fresh air and to think about all that has happened, anyway, The boat turned 5600 rpm, GPS said 33.2 mph statue, Just me in the boat. No wind, No current, Behind breakwater, inside harbor about 75 degrees F. h2o 64 degrees. I really think I need the 13.25 x17 in prop. I can hit 5500 rpm in about 5 sec. flat. I did raise the motor up with the tilt to get about 6000 rpm but speed did not increase. I left the boat in the water overnite so I can play with it tomorrow. I have a 38 ft Bertram in the harbor and it had about 2 in of ash on it from the fires, which had to be washed off today, before it caused a problem with the gel coat. So I will have more time tomorrow to experiment with the whaler. Again thanks for the help |
| captngrander |
posted 10-27-2007 11:30 PM ET (US)
Sal, I tend to agree with you. I think the 17 in pitch might be the ticket. Because of the way it revs up so fast on acceleration. The thing that is not to clear to me is that you think that raising the engine up 2 holes, Are you saying raising the engine by the holes on the base of the engine? Won't that cause the boat to ride more bow down? I do not have a jack plate. I would like to try a stainless prop, but my mechanic said I do not have enough horsepower to warp the aluminum prop. What are you views on this? Thanks, Greg |
| Peter |
posted 10-28-2007 07:11 AM ET (US)
Capt -- Your recent numbers reported still show a negative 13 percent propeller slip. When such a large negative slip number is calculated by the propeller calculator, that usually means that one of the input numbers (speed or RPM or pitch) is not right. I typically suspect the tachometer reading is off when that happens. There is a rotary selector switch on the back of the tachometer (assume BRP System Check tachometer). What number is the pointer pointing at? I believe a 2 cylinder E-TEC should be set to 6P. I have seen tachometers read low despite the fact that the selector switch appears to be set at the right setting. A simple turn of the selector switch away from the correct setting and then back to the correct setting sometimes cures that problem. Thus, to make sure that the tachometer setting is correct, insert a small flat screwdriver into the slot on the selector switch and turn it away from whatever it is set at (assume 6P) and then back to the 6P settting. Then do your test run again and see if the tachometer is still reading the same. |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 10-28-2007 09:35 AM ET (US)
Capt, yes, there are 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the transom, the top 2 are through fixed holes & need to be removed temporarily, the bottom 2 are in slots that run vertical. Loosen the bottom 2 bolts [ but leave them in ], after removing the top 2 bolts, & lift the engine "UP",until the bolt holes at the top of the fixed hole portion of the bracket match up with the second or third set of holes, down from the top of the bracket. Sounds confusing but if you look at it, you will understand. Now, the easiest way to raise the engine is to lower the front of your trailer, put a block of wood such as a 2x4 or 4x4 under the skeg of your engine, [ have a buddy or 2 help you ] now remove the top 2 bolts & nuts from the top holes & just loosen the bottom 2 bolts in the slotted groove, but leave the nuts on, now slowly raise the front of the trailer with the jack [ that lowers the stern & raises the engine as it sits on the piece of wood under the skeg ] & have a buddy watch the fixed holes [ now without bolts in them ] until the bracket or 2nd from the top holes line up with the holes in the transom. When they do line up, re-insert the bolts as they came out, [ dont forget the big washers in the inside of the transom ] & tighten everything back up again. Now back to your post, I think when you were testing out for rpms the last time out, you trimmed out to the point the prop vented & slipped which allowed the engine to rev higher but no gain in speed because of slipping. There's a point when trimming the engine back where the prop starts to slip, & your rpms go up, but no gain in speed, that is when you slowly trim back in just a hair until you find that happy medium where the rpms go down just a bit, & the prop grabs solid with little to no slip or vent. When you trim out, your bow should lift as you trim the engine back. Now to answer your question on raising the engine & the bow riding to flat, "NO',....when you raise the engine up, you will notice the boat rides nice & free, compared to either sticking like glue or porpoising. Just raise the engine 1 set of holes first, than test run her, & you will see what I'm talking about. If the prop dosen't break free in tight turns or with very little trim, try lifting the engine another set of holes & test her again. I don't think the prop will still hang on if you lift the engine all the way up, on the 3rd set of holes down from the top, but try it & see, & if it vents, just lower it back down a set of holes. You will also notice your steering will be much easier as you lift the engine. Are you in San Diego? If so, do you know my good buddy Jim Brown? He retired last year from managing all the lakes in & around SD. Runs a 22' Grady, & his partner is Bruce Bocce [ ex manager for the SD Padres, now manager for the SF Giants ]. Sal |
| inlandwhaler |
posted 10-28-2007 09:47 AM ET (US)
Capt, When they rigged my 60 E-Tec, the dealer first tried a 13.25 X 15 aluminum prop. They said it worked ok, but it allowed rpm's to go over 6000. Because of that they went to the 17" pitch. With your 15", you should be able to get well over 6000 rpm trimmed up. The 17" brought my rpm's down to 6000 unless I trim to where I start to porpoise. I want to try the 19" but the weather may get to cold here before I get the chance this season. My top speed witth the 17" was 36 mph properly trimmed. Trimmed down, speed and rpm's were lower, both increase as the boat is trimmed. Test was with one person and 12+ gallons of fuel onboard in calm water. By any chance are you carrying extra weight in the form of water in the hull? |
| captngrander |
posted 10-29-2007 09:00 PM ET (US)
hey Sal, good to here from you. I just got back from the harbor. I had the whaler in the water all weekend. I did alot of running< put on about 4 hrs. Here is what I gleaned from the running. I can trim the boat out to do 6000 rpm but speed doesn't change. I can get 33.6, 33.2, running 5800 rpm to 6000 rpm depending on the trim. I will take a look at the bolt positioning on the motor tomorrow. Your explanation makes sense to me. As far as I can tell, everything looks right. I will check the tach one more time and turn the rotary switch to make sure it is working properly. The more I run the boat I think that it can turn the 17 in. prop and gain a little more speed. Inland whaler. to answer your question as far as water in the hull. I don't know for sure. But I do not has any holes in the gelcoat and have always been careful not to drill any holes with out using the proper sealant. Yes sal I live in San Diego county. I live in a town called Fall brook, Which is 30 mi north of San Diego proper. I have not met your friend. Talk to guys later, Greg |
| captngrander |
posted 10-31-2007 09:24 PM ET (US)
Sal, Checked out the transom and motor bolts yesterday. Here's what I found. The two bottom bolts are not in the slotted holes. If they were in the slotted holes they would be lower than the bottom of the splash well. The bottom bolts are in the next set of holes up from the slotted holes. This location looks like it is outset of the slotted holes by approx 3/8 of an in. to the outboard side. This puts the nut and square washer on the inside of the splash well right against the bottom of the well. The top bolts are in the upper position and the motor is setting on the transom. The installer used the same bolt holes as the old 70 horse evin. Raising the motor would entail drilling 2 more holes for the slotted bolt holes to get above the bottom of the splash well. If I choose to pursue this avenue, would using a jack plate make the connection work better? Can I use the existing bolt holes for the jack plate install? I did get my hands on a 13.25x17 in. mercury prop that I installed yesterday. I will put the boat back in the water this week end and run it again. Greg |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 10-31-2007 11:08 PM ET (US)
Greg, if your engine is sitting right on the transom, your engine is a minimum of 2 holes to low. The slotted holes should be above the well if the holes were drilled right. Don't worry about drilling 2 new holes, because if thats what it takes to make it right, do it. Yes, a jack plate would really simplify the whole thing. I have jack plates on both of my whalers,...15 sport & "V"20 Outrage, absolutely the best thing I ever did for these boats. Sal |
| captngrander |
posted 11-01-2007 12:35 AM ET (US)
Sal, I have been on the Internet looking at jack plates, Of course, there are many to choose from. What brand jack plate do you have on your 15 sport? What is the set back? Is it elec or hyd? The manual jack plate looks like a pretty straight forward install. Unbolt motor, bolt jack plate to transom, bolt engine back on to jack plate. If I could use my existing bolt holes that would be the ticket for me, As I hate to drill any more holes than I have to. What size motor on your 15? I think this web site is very addicting, I have owned two 15 sport whalers over the last 20 years. I absolutely love the little boats. I haven't gotten this anal before. I would Take the whaler down to the ocean and go fishing. Bring it home clean it up and put it the garage until the next time. I started out with a plain re power for the reliability of the new motor and now I find myself trying to eek every last bit of speed out of a 15 whaler with a 60 hp motor!! crazy!! The relentless pursuit of perfection. anyway I enjoy the web site,reading all the posts,and all the info available. Thanks, |
| Tohsgib |
posted 11-01-2007 12:54 PM ET (US)
Get any jackplate you want for the lowest amount of money. Manual is all you need and $150 should get you a nice plate. I wuld go 5-6 setback and jack it up about 4 inches and see how she runs. I could get my 70 up to almost 49mph and shoot a 6' tall rooster tail about 25 feet behind me....nothing in the water but prop. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 11-01-2007 01:10 PM ET (US)
Tom Clark posted this recently...$109 which is a steal. |
| Tohsgib |
posted 11-01-2007 01:13 PM ET (US)
Actually after visiting the site I would go with the #40012 or 50012 for $138 which is darn cheap. |
| Sal DiMercurio |
posted 11-01-2007 09:25 PM ET (US)
Yes, it should bolt right up to the holes you now have. All you need is the manual lift. Your gonna wonder how you got along without one before. Sal |
| captngrander |
posted 11-02-2007 12:17 AM ET (US)
Thanks guys, It looks like I have a new project. I am going to get the jack plate. Greg |
| captngrander |
posted 11-04-2007 11:34 PM ET (US)
[J]ust got back from the harbor. Had the [W]haler in all weekend. I put the 13.25x17 prop on, and it was a good perforemance improvement. [Wide-open-throttle] was 5,400-RPM, and top speed was 36.6-MPH. At 3,500-RPM speed was 22.4-MPH, which I think would be my best cruise speed. It would be interesting to know what the fuel burn would be at 3,500-RPM. Just thought I would let you guys know the results of the new propeller. Greg |
| jimh |
posted 11-05-2007 08:34 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the information which showed that your boat speed increased to 36.6-MPH from 33.6-MPH just by changing the propeller. As your tests show, there are many influences on the top speed of a particular boat and motor combination. I think you probably can optimize your set-up even further. Other factors which affect test results are air and water temperatures. I have always noted that cold air and cold water produce much better top speed. Since you are still boating, I assume you are not located in the northern United States or Canada. It was too cold for boating this weekend around here (Michigan). |
| captngrander |
posted 11-05-2007 09:58 PM ET (US)
Jim. Thanks for the reply.. I did get a little bit more speed out the new prop, the thing that upsets me is that the prop performance charts don't go along with my field experience. I want to put out the best info possible for everyone out there. I just feel that I am not doing something right to get the same info on the charts as in the field. I have gleened so much info off of your site, that I want to give something back, that is accuarte. No, Jim I don't live in the no. east. I live in so. ca. San diego to be exact. The weather here over the week end was in the 70's and we thought it was cold!!!!!!! thanks, |
| Peter |
posted 11-05-2007 10:25 PM ET (US)
The propeller calculator still shows an unusual NEGATIVE 12.5 percent slip with the 17 inch propeller. What brand of propeller are you using? |
| captngrander |
posted 11-05-2007 10:44 PM ET (US)
peter, I bought a mercury 3 blade prop form west marine. It measeusers 13.25x17. When I went to the prop calcualter it would not calculate. The only thing that can be out of whack would be the tach! It is in the right postion. I don't know..... Greg |
| Peter |
posted 11-06-2007 08:09 AM ET (US)
OK. I assume that is the aluminum QuickSilver Black Diamond propeller. I think these are the same as the Mercury Black Max propeller. If you are looking to optimize performance, you need to try something different because that propeller isn't going to get you "there". I think you'd be better off with BRP's aluminum propeller. probably in the 13 1/4 x 17 size. The BRP propeller has a much different shape than the Black Diamond and seems to work well when buried deep. |
| inlandwhaler |
posted 11-06-2007 09:23 PM ET (US)
Capt, I'm running the BRP 13.25X17 that Peter refers to and I'm getting 36 (actually 35.9 by gps) mph at 6000 rpm. That's in cold (Pennsylvania) fresh water. You may not quite get 6000 rpm in warmer salt water. My 60 E-tec is also mounted in the lowest position. Since it's mounted in the blind holes, I'd either have to drill new holes or mount it on a jack plate to raise it. I don't think I will do either for a few more mph. Other tahn speed, it performs great where it is. I'd still like to try the 19" pitch, but that will have to wait until spring since we had snow showers here today. The boating season is over, the Whaler goes in storage until April! |
| captngrander |
posted 11-06-2007 10:28 PM ET (US)
Inland whaler, It looks like we have the same boat and motor.. I am in agreement with you, as far as how far to go, to get a couple of mph faster. The thing that puzzles me is that our prop figures do not work with the prop calculator. I ran your numbers and it was the same info I got with my numbers. It would not compute the numbers. I cannot get the rpm out of the mercury prop on my boat that you got out of yours. I think it might be what peter is talking about. The different shape of the prop, and there is a difference between the two. I will try and get my hands on the 19 in brp and see what it will do. Sorry to here about the snow.. Sounds cold!!!!! Anyway I will keep you guys posted, as we can boat all year. I just can't get over what a great site this is... To bring together so many people with the same passion and share so much knowledge. Greg |
| Peter |
posted 11-07-2007 09:20 AM ET (US)
The pitch of Mercury and BRP's OMC era designed propellers are designated differently. That is.. a 17 inch Mercury propeller is not the same pitch as a 17 inch BRP (OMC era) propeller. That partly explains why the slip is very NEGATIVE for the Mercury propeller and not very NEGATIVE for the BRP propeller. Because Inland is able to reach 6000 RPM with the 17 inch BRP propeller, I would give the 19 inch BRP propeller a try. Intuitively, based on my several years of experience with a Yamaha 70 on a 15 SuperSport with performance noted above, a 19 inch pitch seems about right for the E-TEC 60 with 2.67:1 gears on the 15 hull. The Yamaha 70 had 2.33:1 gears. |
| 4whaler |
posted 11-03-2009 06:08 PM ET (US)
Well to bring this post up to date for 2009, Im hanging a 60hp ETEC on a GLS II/15 ft hull (alert actually)made up as a GLS II. I ordered up both the 13.2x19 aluminum and the 13 7/8x19 SST stainless which will go on first. I also told the shop to jack the motor up about an inch or two to match the 60hp 4 stroke Yami height and that's coming off the GLS II and going over to my 15ft Center console to replace a 70hp 2stroke Yami. I'll let you all know the out come when I run the GLS II with the SST the weekend of the 14th of Nov. weather permitting. One pain is that the new I-COM digital gauge for the ETEC doesn't show trim for the small motors 90hp and below so I have to have another hole drilled in the console to mount a manual analog trim gauge. The Yami digital shows all and is the only gauge currently installed in the GLS II console. Also the I-COM gauge apparently has an internal GPS chip that will show speed IF you install the hockey puck GPS antenna (made by Lowrance) for it that BRP didn't mention or ship with new guage, controls, prop, and cables. Im not going to bother with it as the Garmin 240 blue has a speedo paddle wheel installed on the back of the boat already that works just fine. The mech at D&D marine says the Yami and Merc digital gauges are great and BPR missed the mark with the I-COM especially with the smaller engines. I almost put in a analog tach with system check but the price was almost the same for me and I had really gotten used to the Yami all in one digital. More later... Oh thanks Forrest. |
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