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Author Topic:   GUARDIAN 19, Johnson 130-HP

joeyuniz posted 06-21-2008 11:29 PM ET (US)
I have a 1992 Boston Whaler Guardian 19, the same hull as an Outrage 18 but 500-lbs more. It has a 1995 Johnson 130-HP with a 15 x 17-inch-pitch OMC stainless propeller and only hits 4,800-RPM. I would like to reach close to maximum [engine speed]. I had 20 gallons of gas and two others with me when I tested it. [Boat] speed isn't my main concern, as I just want it to be within specification [on engine speed]. The hull doesn't have water in it. Other than the [speed] the engine runs great.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 06-21-2008 11:53 PM ET (US)
While some will know the gear ratio and WOT range for that motor, can you tell us in what hole of the upper engine bracket is the engine bolted on the transom. How many holes down from the top?
Did you get a GPS reading for speed?
jimh posted 06-22-2008 08:53 AM ET (US)
If you want the engine speed at wide-open-throttle to increase about 450-RPM you should change the propeller pitch to 2-inches less.
joeyuniz posted 06-22-2008 09:33 AM ET (US)
It is the third hole from the top and the bottom is rough. I don't have a gps yet as I'm waiting to purchase a good combo unit. Would a 14 1/2 x 15 work?.
Tom W Clark posted 06-22-2008 12:59 PM ET (US)
Joey,
That would depend on exactly WHAT 14-1/2 x 15 you are talking about.
joeyuniz posted 06-22-2008 11:18 PM ET (US)
what propeller do you recommend as I'm open to suggestions? Also will be adding a 112 lbs 9.9 mercury fourstroke long shaft kicker I just purchased from my neighbor so I think I should probally try to reach the max rpm now?
Tohsgib posted 06-23-2008 12:36 PM ET (US)
Well a 17" should be the correct prop, I would work on the bottom first and go from there. At $4+ for gas, you want to be efficient as possible. I would rather invest $400 on a clean smooth bottom then a prop to compensate for it.
joeyuniz posted 06-23-2008 03:24 PM ET (US)
I don't want to re paint the bottom just because I want to redo the whole boat and flip it over at the end of the year and strip it.Then paint or gelcoat.And if i paint now it is going to take more work and time and money to strip new paint off. What about a cheap aluminum prop that could work for the rest of the season under $200
Tohsgib posted 06-24-2008 11:25 AM ET (US)
Just run it as-is if that is the case, won't hurt it.
Tom W Clark posted 06-24-2008 11:22 PM ET (US)
What gearcase does the 1995 Johnson 130 have? Some used the V-4 gearcase some used the V-6 gearcase. Different gear ratios and different hub diameters. It is very relevant to the propeller selection.
Peter posted 06-25-2008 08:35 AM ET (US)
If he has a 15 x 17P propeller on the motor now, as indicated, it has to have the V6 gearcase. That propeller won't fit on a V4 gearcase.
Peter posted 06-25-2008 08:45 AM ET (US)
Also, assuming it has the original gearcase, the gear ratio is 2.25:1. That motor, if healthy, should be able to turn nearly 6000 RPM at WOT with that propeller and a clean bottom.
Tom W Clark posted 06-25-2008 09:36 AM ET (US)
OK Peter, those are good observations. Let's do some math:
4800 RPM through a 2.25:1 gear ratio lower unit swinging a 17" pitch SST would only be pushing this boat about 31 MPH. I find that hard to believe if the motor is working correctly. I would expect this boat to be capable of 37 MPH or more.
Joey - Do you have any speed data top go with your reported RPM data? Are you sure you are reading the tachometer correctly? Can you confirm the gear case information?
Peter posted 06-25-2008 09:56 AM ET (US)
Tom -- Redline for the 2.0L V4 Looper is 6000 RPM, so 4800 RPM is far short of the WOT mark. At 6000 RPM with a 17 inch pitch and 2.25:1 gears, 40 MPH is about what I would expect from this combination.
Tohsgib posted 06-25-2008 11:20 AM ET (US)
6k is redline but again if he is going to redo the bottom, why buy a new prop.
Tom W Clark posted 06-25-2008 11:24 AM ET (US)
Big difference between 4800 RPM and 6000 RPM, 1200 RPM to be exact. No amount of "redoing" the bottom is not going to fix a problem that big.
But I agree that it is better to figure out what is really going on here before dabbling in propeller changes.
Peter posted 06-25-2008 11:48 AM ET (US)
Joey needs to tell us the speed achieved at 4800 RPM. That will likely tell us whether the tachometer is reading out correctly.
joeyuniz posted 06-25-2008 01:42 PM ET (US)
I don't know the speed i was going becuase i don't have a gps. Tommorow I'm going to take the boat down to the bay. I might be able to borrorw a handheld from my friend. The motor was just timed and synchronized and the compression is 130 in all of the cylinders. Last year i had a problem with this motor and it needed a coil and the tune up it just had made it run awsome compared to the way it was. I used to have a dauntless with a 112 johnson spl that would do 42 mph according to it's gps. I think this motor runs and has alot more power than that motor. I don't think that the top speed is even close to that but lets see.
joeyuniz posted 06-30-2008 11:25 PM ET (US)
Here's an update- took the boat down to the bay for some fishing and the boat still performed the same but when i was flushing the motor after the last day i looked at the prop closely and noticed that it almost looks as if the prop was re pitched. Is that possible that the prop is a repitched 15x 17 that only turns around 4800 rpm's fully trimmed. I'll try to get pictures of the prop. My boat ran great other than that and the motor runs like a top with no alarms or anything wrong except the rpm's.
Peter posted 07-01-2008 06:23 AM ET (US)
Still need a speed read out from a GPS to do any kind of reasonable remote diagnosis. We can't venture a reasonable guess if the RPM reading is wrong or right without a speed read out.
Tohsgib posted 07-01-2008 11:08 AM ET (US)
Yes yo can repitch but usually only 2" either way.
joeyuniz posted 07-01-2008 11:30 PM ET (US)
I don't have a gps and my friend didn't have his handheld to let me borrow. I can tell you that it is very unlikely to be my motor because it is in spec and idle alot quieter than my 112 crossflow ever did. The planing isn't amazing but it's alot better than previous boats i had. The motor that is on the boat was probally put on it by a mechanic guy before the guy i bought it from. The guy who had it before me i don't think noticed the rpms because he didn't know or care about the rpms. I had the boat idling for about 2 hours and it didn't miss a beat or backfire once. It doesn't hesitate or stutter or anything. I looked at the prop and it looks like it has been modified.I will try to take some good pictures of it.
Peter posted 07-02-2008 07:48 AM ET (US)
I have seen OMC tachometers read incorrectly low because the calibration setting is off even though the setting appears correct.
On the back of the tachometer, there should be a round calibration switch. The switch pointer should be pointing to 6P. Take a flat screwdriver that will fit in the rotating switch slot and turn the switch to 5P (should notice the detent and this would be counterclockwise) and then back to 6P. Sometimes the contacts of these calibration switches get dirty or out of alignment causing the tachometer to be incorrectly calibrated.
In any event, we can't really offer further guidance without a speed reading from a GPS.

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Author	Topic: GUARDIAN 19, Johnson 130-HP
joeyuniz	posted 06-21-2008 11:29 PM ET (US) I have a 1992 Boston Whaler Guardian 19, the same hull as an Outrage 18 but 500-lbs more. It has a 1995 Johnson 130-HP with a 15 x 17-inch-pitch OMC stainless propeller and only hits 4,800-RPM. I would like to reach close to maximum [engine speed]. I had 20 gallons of gas and two others with me when I tested it. [Boat] speed isn't my main concern, as I just want it to be within specification [on engine speed]. The hull doesn't have water in it. Other than the [speed] the engine runs great.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 06-21-2008 11:53 PM ET (US) While some will know the gear ratio and WOT range for that motor, can you tell us in what hole of the upper engine bracket is the engine bolted on the transom. How many holes down from the top? Did you get a GPS reading for speed?
jimh	posted 06-22-2008 08:53 AM ET (US) If you want the engine speed at wide-open-throttle to increase about 450-RPM you should change the propeller pitch to 2-inches less.
joeyuniz	posted 06-22-2008 09:33 AM ET (US) It is the third hole from the top and the bottom is rough. I don't have a gps yet as I'm waiting to purchase a good combo unit. Would a 14 1/2 x 15 work?.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-22-2008 12:59 PM ET (US) Joey, That would depend on exactly WHAT 14-1/2 x 15 you are talking about.
joeyuniz	posted 06-22-2008 11:18 PM ET (US) what propeller do you recommend as I'm open to suggestions? Also will be adding a 112 lbs 9.9 mercury fourstroke long shaft kicker I just purchased from my neighbor so I think I should probally try to reach the max rpm now?
Tohsgib	posted 06-23-2008 12:36 PM ET (US) Well a 17" should be the correct prop, I would work on the bottom first and go from there. At $4+ for gas, you want to be efficient as possible. I would rather invest $400 on a clean smooth bottom then a prop to compensate for it.
joeyuniz	posted 06-23-2008 03:24 PM ET (US) I don't want to re paint the bottom just because I want to redo the whole boat and flip it over at the end of the year and strip it.Then paint or gelcoat.And if i paint now it is going to take more work and time and money to strip new paint off. What about a cheap aluminum prop that could work for the rest of the season under $200
Tohsgib	posted 06-24-2008 11:25 AM ET (US) Just run it as-is if that is the case, won't hurt it.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-24-2008 11:22 PM ET (US) What gearcase does the 1995 Johnson 130 have? Some used the V-4 gearcase some used the V-6 gearcase. Different gear ratios and different hub diameters. It is very relevant to the propeller selection.
Peter	posted 06-25-2008 08:35 AM ET (US) If he has a 15 x 17P propeller on the motor now, as indicated, it has to have the V6 gearcase. That propeller won't fit on a V4 gearcase.
Peter	posted 06-25-2008 08:45 AM ET (US) Also, assuming it has the original gearcase, the gear ratio is 2.25:1. That motor, if healthy, should be able to turn nearly 6000 RPM at WOT with that propeller and a clean bottom.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-25-2008 09:36 AM ET (US) OK Peter, those are good observations. Let's do some math: 4800 RPM through a 2.25:1 gear ratio lower unit swinging a 17" pitch SST would only be pushing this boat about 31 MPH. I find that hard to believe if the motor is working correctly. I would expect this boat to be capable of 37 MPH or more. Joey - Do you have any speed data top go with your reported RPM data? Are you sure you are reading the tachometer correctly? Can you confirm the gear case information?
Peter	posted 06-25-2008 09:56 AM ET (US) Tom -- Redline for the 2.0L V4 Looper is 6000 RPM, so 4800 RPM is far short of the WOT mark. At 6000 RPM with a 17 inch pitch and 2.25:1 gears, 40 MPH is about what I would expect from this combination.
Tohsgib	posted 06-25-2008 11:20 AM ET (US) 6k is redline but again if he is going to redo the bottom, why buy a new prop.
Tom W Clark	posted 06-25-2008 11:24 AM ET (US) Big difference between 4800 RPM and 6000 RPM, 1200 RPM to be exact. No amount of "redoing" the bottom is not going to fix a problem that big. But I agree that it is better to figure out what is really going on here before dabbling in propeller changes.
Peter	posted 06-25-2008 11:48 AM ET (US) Joey needs to tell us the speed achieved at 4800 RPM. That will likely tell us whether the tachometer is reading out correctly.
joeyuniz	posted 06-25-2008 01:42 PM ET (US) I don't know the speed i was going becuase i don't have a gps. Tommorow I'm going to take the boat down to the bay. I might be able to borrorw a handheld from my friend. The motor was just timed and synchronized and the compression is 130 in all of the cylinders. Last year i had a problem with this motor and it needed a coil and the tune up it just had made it run awsome compared to the way it was. I used to have a dauntless with a 112 johnson spl that would do 42 mph according to it's gps. I think this motor runs and has alot more power than that motor. I don't think that the top speed is even close to that but lets see.
joeyuniz	posted 06-30-2008 11:25 PM ET (US) Here's an update- took the boat down to the bay for some fishing and the boat still performed the same but when i was flushing the motor after the last day i looked at the prop closely and noticed that it almost looks as if the prop was re pitched. Is that possible that the prop is a repitched 15x 17 that only turns around 4800 rpm's fully trimmed. I'll try to get pictures of the prop. My boat ran great other than that and the motor runs like a top with no alarms or anything wrong except the rpm's.
Peter	posted 07-01-2008 06:23 AM ET (US) Still need a speed read out from a GPS to do any kind of reasonable remote diagnosis. We can't venture a reasonable guess if the RPM reading is wrong or right without a speed read out.
Tohsgib	posted 07-01-2008 11:08 AM ET (US) Yes yo can repitch but usually only 2" either way.
joeyuniz	posted 07-01-2008 11:30 PM ET (US) I don't have a gps and my friend didn't have his handheld to let me borrow. I can tell you that it is very unlikely to be my motor because it is in spec and idle alot quieter than my 112 crossflow ever did. The planing isn't amazing but it's alot better than previous boats i had. The motor that is on the boat was probally put on it by a mechanic guy before the guy i bought it from. The guy who had it before me i don't think noticed the rpms because he didn't know or care about the rpms. I had the boat idling for about 2 hours and it didn't miss a beat or backfire once. It doesn't hesitate or stutter or anything. I looked at the prop and it looks like it has been modified.I will try to take some good pictures of it.
Peter	posted 07-02-2008 07:48 AM ET (US) I have seen OMC tachometers read incorrectly low because the calibration setting is off even though the setting appears correct. On the back of the tachometer, there should be a round calibration switch. The switch pointer should be pointing to 6P. Take a flat screwdriver that will fit in the rotating switch slot and turn the switch to 5P (should notice the detent and this would be counterclockwise) and then back to 6P. Sometimes the contacts of these calibration switches get dirty or out of alignment causing the tachometer to be incorrectly calibrated. In any event, we can't really offer further guidance without a speed reading from a GPS.