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Author Topic:   Greetings: MONTAUK 17, E-TEC 90

BC from SD posted 02-09-2014 11:16 AM ET (US)
Hi. Based on the informative commentary this site has provided I recently re-powered with a new 90 E-TEC on my 1988 Montauk. Couldn't be more pleasantly surprised and happier. Thanks for all the many contributions this community has made in helping a novice such as myself with my Whaler!
So, it's onward now to fine tune the propeller situation. While conducting some test runs on the early morning glass of San Diego's South Bay, I was only able to obtain 37-MPH at 4,500-RPM. Based on the many comments regarding this very topic, I think I know what to do.
Next up, (and a bit more of a head scratcher for me): removal and replacement of the corroded stern drain tube.
Thanks again. And for any locals, feel free to give me a shout!
Bill
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx355/billycraig/Newenginepix11914004_zps2280261d.jpg
jimh posted 02-09-2014 11:20 AM ET (US)
Welcome Bill! The choice of a 90-HP E-TEC for powering a classic MONTAUK has been made many times. I think you will find the combination to be very good. When you are ready for propeller fine tuning, the PERFORMANCE discussion area will be glad to help you.
Re the replacement of drain tubes, there is a good article in the FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS or FAQ on that topic. See:
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
Tom W Clark posted 02-09-2014 01:10 PM ET (US)
The most important consideration when installing an E-TEC 90 on a classic Montauk is to be sure the motor is mounted as high as it can go on the transom using the fourth set of holes in the motor mounting bracket.
For a propeller, most use the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage or Turbo 1, though a few are using the 13-1/4" x 17" size. If using a BRP Viper, use the 17" pitch.
What propeller are you using now?
BC from SD posted 02-09-2014 05:45 PM ET (US)
Tom, it's an Evinrude, (flat-black in color) 3 blade 13.25 x 17 prop, (#765183). You think it's a function of both mounting height and the prop? Thanks for the replies...
Tom W Clark posted 02-09-2014 09:35 PM ET (US)
Well, that's just an aluminum prop. You can do much better.
What set of bolts holes in the motor's mounting bracket are being used now?
Tom W Clark posted 02-09-2014 09:43 PM ET (US)
Wait, don't answer that, I just looked at your photo. It appears the motor is mounted all the way down on the transom. That is a BIG problem and robbing you of about 5 MPH.
It should be raised 2-1/4 inches to the last set of holes. If these are the top holes...
o <-- Bolts are now through these holes
o
o
o
...to this:
o
o
o
o <-- Bolts should be going through these holes
Hal Watkins posted 02-09-2014 09:50 PM ET (US)
Hello BC and welcome. I am from SD [San Diego not South Dakota] also. Hope to see you on the water this summer.
Ridge Runner posted 02-09-2014 10:55 PM ET (US)
Nice picture with your new ETEC 90 and the aircraft carrier in the back ground!
jimh posted 02-10-2014 12:51 AM ET (US)
Your new E-TEC engine looks great on the transom of your classic Boston Whaler MONTAUK.
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx355/billycraig/ Newenginepix11914004_zps2280261d.jpg
I like that new graphics package on the engine, too.
Raaaaay posted 02-10-2014 01:37 AM ET (US)
Bill--I am also in San Diego (not South Dakota) and the view of the Midway aircraft carrier and the skyline is what makes year round Whalering in San Diego great.
I have been out off Point Loma several times whale watching in the past two weeks in my recently restored 19 Outrage. Contact me if you want to join me some day.
ANDREW PITCHFORD posted 02-11-2014 07:12 PM ET (US)
I do believe everything T C says about outboard mounting height and I'm thinking of raising mine. So, why do Boston Whaler and many factory installed motors get mounted at the lowest setting[?]
jimh posted 02-12-2014 09:48 AM ET (US)
It is hard to say with precision why a boat builder or a dealer will install an outboard engine on a transom of a boat with the engine mounting height at the lowest position. Perhaps they do it because they are conservative and want to avoid any risk of the propeller ventilating. Or maybe they do it because they are not aware of the advantages that can occur if the engine is mounted higher. Or maybe they do it from habit.
Tom W Clark posted 02-12-2014 10:10 AM ET (US)
Boston Whaler doesn't install all their engines all the way down. In 1988 Whaler did not even sell or install engines on the recreational boats, that was left to the dealer or owner to do.
36 years ago back in 1988, outboards on a Montauks were either installed all the way down or one hole up. In the mid 1980s there was a factory-to-dealer memo instructing dealers to install motor one hole up if they were having difficulty getting the lower bolts on a given motor to clear the splashwell.
In 1988 the vast majority of outboards were still being sold with aluminum propellers. There were not that many stainless steel propeller models offered and only the OMC SST had gained much widespread use. The SST was good but those old aluminum designs really needed to be run fully submerged or they would tend to ventilate.
Today propeller design has evolved a very long way and most (but not all) props sold today can be run with their blades piercing the surface so today, motors can be mounted much higher.
Add to that the fact that a great many Johnson and Evinrude motor were mounted on Montauks and other small Whalers using the so-called blind holes for the lower mounting bolts to allow the motor to sit all the way down on the transom without interference with the splashwell bottom.
At re-power time, dealers and mechanics are befuddled by the dilemma of what to do with those bastard holes in the transom which do not conform to the industry standard bolt holes spacing used today and which do no tallow any vertical adjustment of the motor. Many just take the path of least resistance and reinstall the new motor where the old one was. That's a mistake and one easily avoided.
ANDREW PITCHFORD posted 02-12-2014 12:46 PM ET (US)
I have a 170 Montauk with a Mercury 90 FOURSTROKE. The propeller is a LASER II 13-1/4 x 20. I'm happy with its performance, but I wonder if it could be better. My motor is currently mounted all the way down. [Combined four posts into one--jimh]
Tom W Clark posted 02-12-2014 03:12 PM ET (US)
The factory motor mountign height for that motor on a Montauk 170 is one hiole up, not all the way down so somebody has messed with your in the past.
I recommend it be raised three holes to the fourth bolt hole position if using a 13-1/4" x 20" Laser II.
o
o
o
o <-- Bolts should be going through these holes.
o
ANDREW PITCHFORD posted 02-12-2014 04:07 PM ET (US)
Thank [you] Tom. [You are] right[.] I just went and looked[:] it [is] one hole up. Sorry [to] bother [you,] but what do you think of the LASER propeller[?] And, what will I see by raising the motor[?]
Tom W Clark posted 02-12-2014 07:52 PM ET (US)
The 13-1/4" x 20" Laser II is a fine propeller for that boat-motor combination.
If you raise the motor two bolt holes you will less bow rise on acceleration, lighter steering effort, better fuel mileage and a higher top speed.
You will also reduce the draft of your vessel by 1-1/2 inches with a corresponding reduction in the chance of a propeller strike.
ANDREW PITCHFORD posted 02-12-2014 08:37 PM ET (US)
Thank you very much. Sounds like a good project to get done.

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Author	Topic: Greetings: MONTAUK 17, E-TEC 90
BC from SD	posted 02-09-2014 11:16 AM ET (US) Hi. Based on the informative commentary this site has provided I recently re-powered with a new 90 E-TEC on my 1988 Montauk. Couldn't be more pleasantly surprised and happier. Thanks for all the many contributions this community has made in helping a novice such as myself with my Whaler! So, it's onward now to fine tune the propeller situation. While conducting some test runs on the early morning glass of San Diego's South Bay, I was only able to obtain 37-MPH at 4,500-RPM. Based on the many comments regarding this very topic, I think I know what to do. Next up, (and a bit more of a head scratcher for me): removal and replacement of the corroded stern drain tube. Thanks again. And for any locals, feel free to give me a shout! Bill http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx355/billycraig/Newenginepix11914004_zps2280261d.jpg
jimh	posted 02-09-2014 11:20 AM ET (US) Welcome Bill! The choice of a 90-HP E-TEC for powering a classic MONTAUK has been made many times. I think you will find the combination to be very good. When you are ready for propeller fine tuning, the PERFORMANCE discussion area will be glad to help you. Re the replacement of drain tubes, there is a good article in the FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS or FAQ on that topic. See: http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12
Tom W Clark	posted 02-09-2014 01:10 PM ET (US) The most important consideration when installing an E-TEC 90 on a classic Montauk is to be sure the motor is mounted as high as it can go on the transom using the fourth set of holes in the motor mounting bracket. For a propeller, most use the 13-1/4" x 15" Stiletto Advantage or Turbo 1, though a few are using the 13-1/4" x 17" size. If using a BRP Viper, use the 17" pitch. What propeller are you using now?
BC from SD	posted 02-09-2014 05:45 PM ET (US) Tom, it's an Evinrude, (flat-black in color) 3 blade 13.25 x 17 prop, (#765183). You think it's a function of both mounting height and the prop? Thanks for the replies...
Tom W Clark	posted 02-09-2014 09:35 PM ET (US) Well, that's just an aluminum prop. You can do much better. What set of bolts holes in the motor's mounting bracket are being used now?
Tom W Clark	posted 02-09-2014 09:43 PM ET (US) Wait, don't answer that, I just looked at your photo. It appears the motor is mounted all the way down on the transom. That is a BIG problem and robbing you of about 5 MPH. It should be raised 2-1/4 inches to the last set of holes. If these are the top holes... o <-- Bolts are now through these holes o o o ...to this: o o o o <-- Bolts should be going through these holes
Hal Watkins	posted 02-09-2014 09:50 PM ET (US) Hello BC and welcome. I am from SD [San Diego not South Dakota] also. Hope to see you on the water this summer.
Ridge Runner	posted 02-09-2014 10:55 PM ET (US) Nice picture with your new ETEC 90 and the aircraft carrier in the back ground!
jimh	posted 02-10-2014 12:51 AM ET (US) Your new E-TEC engine looks great on the transom of your classic Boston Whaler MONTAUK. http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx355/billycraig/ Newenginepix11914004_zps2280261d.jpg I like that new graphics package on the engine, too.
Raaaaay	posted 02-10-2014 01:37 AM ET (US) Bill--I am also in San Diego (not South Dakota) and the view of the Midway aircraft carrier and the skyline is what makes year round Whalering in San Diego great. I have been out off Point Loma several times whale watching in the past two weeks in my recently restored 19 Outrage. Contact me if you want to join me some day.
ANDREW PITCHFORD	posted 02-11-2014 07:12 PM ET (US) I do believe everything T C says about outboard mounting height and I'm thinking of raising mine. So, why do Boston Whaler and many factory installed motors get mounted at the lowest setting[?]
jimh	posted 02-12-2014 09:48 AM ET (US) It is hard to say with precision why a boat builder or a dealer will install an outboard engine on a transom of a boat with the engine mounting height at the lowest position. Perhaps they do it because they are conservative and want to avoid any risk of the propeller ventilating. Or maybe they do it because they are not aware of the advantages that can occur if the engine is mounted higher. Or maybe they do it from habit.
Tom W Clark	posted 02-12-2014 10:10 AM ET (US) Boston Whaler doesn't install all their engines all the way down. In 1988 Whaler did not even sell or install engines on the recreational boats, that was left to the dealer or owner to do. 36 years ago back in 1988, outboards on a Montauks were either installed all the way down or one hole up. In the mid 1980s there was a factory-to-dealer memo instructing dealers to install motor one hole up if they were having difficulty getting the lower bolts on a given motor to clear the splashwell. In 1988 the vast majority of outboards were still being sold with aluminum propellers. There were not that many stainless steel propeller models offered and only the OMC SST had gained much widespread use. The SST was good but those old aluminum designs really needed to be run fully submerged or they would tend to ventilate. Today propeller design has evolved a very long way and most (but not all) props sold today can be run with their blades piercing the surface so today, motors can be mounted much higher. Add to that the fact that a great many Johnson and Evinrude motor were mounted on Montauks and other small Whalers using the so-called blind holes for the lower mounting bolts to allow the motor to sit all the way down on the transom without interference with the splashwell bottom. At re-power time, dealers and mechanics are befuddled by the dilemma of what to do with those bastard holes in the transom which do not conform to the industry standard bolt holes spacing used today and which do no tallow any vertical adjustment of the motor. Many just take the path of least resistance and reinstall the new motor where the old one was. That's a mistake and one easily avoided.
ANDREW PITCHFORD	posted 02-12-2014 12:46 PM ET (US) I have a 170 Montauk with a Mercury 90 FOURSTROKE. The propeller is a LASER II 13-1/4 x 20. I'm happy with its performance, but I wonder if it could be better. My motor is currently mounted all the way down. [Combined four posts into one--jimh]
Tom W Clark	posted 02-12-2014 03:12 PM ET (US) The factory motor mountign height for that motor on a Montauk 170 is one hiole up, not all the way down so somebody has messed with your in the past. I recommend it be raised three holes to the fourth bolt hole position if using a 13-1/4" x 20" Laser II. o o o o <-- Bolts should be going through these holes. o
ANDREW PITCHFORD	posted 02-12-2014 04:07 PM ET (US) Thank [you] Tom. [You are] right[.] I just went and looked[:] it [is] one hole up. Sorry [to] bother [you,] but what do you think of the LASER propeller[?] And, what will I see by raising the motor[?]
Tom W Clark	posted 02-12-2014 07:52 PM ET (US) The 13-1/4" x 20" Laser II is a fine propeller for that boat-motor combination. If you raise the motor two bolt holes you will less bow rise on acceleration, lighter steering effort, better fuel mileage and a higher top speed. You will also reduce the draft of your vessel by 1-1/2 inches with a corresponding reduction in the chance of a propeller strike.
ANDREW PITCHFORD	posted 02-12-2014 08:37 PM ET (US) Thank you very much. Sounds like a good project to get done.