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Author Topic:   Montauk 16 or 17 Re-power with 60-HP

gpj posted 07-19-2014 01:11 PM ET (US)
I am considering re-powering my 1975 Montauk with a 60 hp Mercury ELPT with EFI. I am moving the battery to the console. The boat will be run in Pine Island Sound in Florida with occasional trips into the Gulf of Mexico on very calm days. I am not a speed demon. It is conceivable we may want to pull a kid on a tube at some point.
Would this motor be sufficient? Thanks!
Dick E posted 07-20-2014 07:28 AM ET (US)
60 HP is the minimum HP motor I would have. I would get a 90 HP and have that reserve power available when a thunderstorm is imminent.
Much better resale with a 90 down the road and can water ski easy with a 90HP. Kids grow up fast!.60 HP will work, but you may regret later on.
gpj posted 07-20-2014 08:53 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply, Dick. I had forgotten about those thunderstorms in SW Florida. They pop up quick and roll in fast! After spending so much time on this board, I believe I have become VERY conscious of stern weight. I really want to be under 300#.
I like the idea of buying a US engineered and manufactured motor (although I seem to remember reading that the 60hp is assembled in China). If Mercury had an equivalent of the Yamaha F70, it would probably be a no-brainer. Unfortunately, their 4s line seems to go from 60 to 75hp, and the 75 hp is nearly 100lb heavier than the F70. It is looking like I will be forced to go with the F70 if I want a 4s motor.
PeteB88 posted 07-20-2014 11:07 PM ET (US)
Buy a 90 - made for that hull and 60 HP hurts your resale value big time.
gpj posted 07-21-2014 12:27 AM ET (US)
Pete - This is an old non-smirked Montauk, with the 16'7" hull, low gunnels, and low, low transom. I have never run the boat, but I'm afraid a 350 pound motor will make it sit too low, take too much water over the transom, or mean I can't put anything or anybody in the stern. I THINK my hull is dry.
I would love to have a 90hp motor. I think motors last much longer when they aren't run at full throttle all the time. Reserve power means reserve speed, and reserve speed can occasionally get you out of trouble.
This repowering decision is a lot more complicated than I thought it would be. Does anybody know of any 300# 90hp four strokes on the horizon ;-)
Lupi posted 07-21-2014 06:48 AM ET (US)
If you want a brand new engine that does not exceed 300 lbs weight, the best choice is the Yamaha F70. In this power range, it is the only one that is below 300 lbs.
We had the same issue when it came to repower a Sakonnet(16.7 hull). Great motor this F70...
Ridge Runner posted 07-21-2014 06:50 AM ET (US)
I would put the Yamaha F70 on this boat at 257lb it is a good option and there are a lot of supporting dealers in SW Florida.
Even the ETEC 90Hp and 75Hp are 320lb, 63lbs heaver.
I would have two prop's for this motor a "standard" 13-1/2 x 16 for all around use and a smaller pitched prop for water sports.
My guess is you would top out at just under 40MPH with a moderate load.
gpj posted 07-22-2014 07:53 AM ET (US)
Great feedback, Lupi and Ridge. It's starting to look like the F70 is the only practical motor for this boat. I would have preferred to buy an American engineered and manufactured motor, but Merc just isn't making it possible. They really need an F70 equivalent.
Ridge - Are those ss props, or do you make do with the Al?
macfam posted 07-22-2014 08:07 AM ET (US)
Years ago, we had a Nauset model with a 70hp 2-stroke, 3cyl. Merc.
Absolutely adequate power for that hull. Boston Whaler used to feature that hull with 55 hp Homelites.
Go for the F70.
andrey320 posted 07-22-2014 01:59 PM ET (US)
I repowered my 15 Dauntless (which weighs about the same as a classic Montauk) with a 60 Honda. I was debating between the Yamaha F70 and the Honda BF60 and went with the Honda mostly due to my brand loyalty. I also very rarely get to push the boat past 30mph (primarily boating in the Santa Barbara / Catalina Channels. With the right prop, the boat tops out at 36mph and has plenty of "go" when needed. The BF60 uses what it calls "Blast" to richen the fuel mixture at full throttle which I think helps with hole shot.
PeteB88 posted 07-22-2014 04:55 PM ET (US)
Oh - - I was just on one w older very low hour Evinrude 88 and it was nearly perfect for that boat. I like extra power available however, rarely run WOT. I'm sure you will make a good decision.
Ridge Runner posted 07-22-2014 09:03 PM ET (US)
Your rigging dealer should help with prop selection. I would look at the standard prop being SS:
Yamaha Painted Stainless Steel
Diameter/Pitch 13-1/2 x 16
Yamaha Part # 688-45978-60-98
Depending on what kind of water sports ... tubing or skiing... I would drop 2 inches of pitch for pulling skiers in deep water starts or large tube... you do need to be careful driving with out pulling a tube or skier as you could over rev.
Alan Heckman posted 07-23-2014 07:08 AM ET (US)
I have a 1999 Alert 17 with a Yamaha F70 with a Yamaha Performance Series prop on it as recommended by Tom Clark and it is a great prop for a 17 ft. Hull. The fuel economy is unbelievably great on the F70, it seems to run on fumes! Sorry I almost forgot the prop is a 13.25 x 14.
Lupi posted 07-23-2014 07:56 AM ET (US)
I was about to say that a 16 pitch SS would be a bit too much, but I am not an expert in prop. Just to say that the Sakonnet we have with this F70 is propped with an aluminium 13.25*15. So I'm not surprised to read that Tom Clark recommended a 14 pitch stainless steel...
gpj posted 07-23-2014 01:52 PM ET (US)
The group’s input is incredibly useful. I particularly appreciate the case studies! I am going to go with the F70. Between the low weight, reputation for reliability, and fuel efficiency, it seems to be the 4s repower option of choice for a 16'7" hull. I also see a lot of them Around North Captiva and in Pine Island Sound, so there must be some good local dealers around. The only negative is the price: the F70 is $2k more than the Chinese assembled Merc 60 EFI 4s. However, $2k for 10 extra hp and a lot more piece of mind seems reasonable.
I finished removing the old motor in preparation for the repower. There were a few surprises: some bad; some good.
Good
- The steering apparatus (Teleflex Big-T) is in pretty good shape. There is no backlash in the gears, and the cable seems perfect.
- The railing support holes were solid and dry.
- The console came off without any trouble.
- The boat has a good quality 3-piece rub that came off with no problem. There was no evidence of hull wetness.
- Even though it was painted, the nonskid seems to be in pretty good shape.
Bad
- There were four extra holes in the transom, which will mean some extra work. Actually, six of the holes may need to be repaired. The bottom holes may be too high for the motor mounting bracket. At least all eight of the holes were bone dry. In fact, knock on teak, I think I have a relatively dry hull.
- The steering bezel is chromed pot metal with quite a bit of pitting. Chrome replacements seem hard to find. The ones online are black (powder coated, I assume) and expensive (around $125).
- The rail standoffs are chromed brass, and most of the chrome is gone.
- Three of the 10 console screw holes were stripped.
- The boat has an aftermarket reproduction of the original Whaler bow light. The mounting plate doesn’t perfectly match the contour of the bow. The bulb holder is probably shot.
- Bad: the boat is painted inside and out. I am not sure what type of paint was used the hull was not properly prepped before painting, which means the paint may not be of the highest quality.
- The console has quite a few small holes, plus one large (3”) hole.
- The original Whaler instrument panels are gone, replaced by Maiko panels. On the bright side, the Maiko panels have very good Perko switches, including several unused extras.
- The spoke/hub welds on the ss steering are broken.
I have decided I will have to sand and repaint everything. Even though my wife and I have finished making the new cushions, and the wood is all refurbished (but not refinished: I’m still on the fence between oil and varnish), it looks like the boat won’t be ready for repowering until the end of September.
Thank you once again for all of your help with this project!
Alan Heckman posted 07-23-2014 04:35 PM ET (US)
If you do go with the F70 and a Yamaha Performance series 13.25 x 14 prop have your motor mounted 3 holes up,that's as high as you can mount it. I did because that's where Tom Clark said to mount it. MY dealer said it was too high and I would be back to lower it and after he said that it did look too high but after running it I can tell you, it's perfect. Good hole shot, easy steering, and NO ventilation on hard turns. Tops out about 38 mph at 6200 rpm.
gpj posted 07-23-2014 10:56 PM ET (US)
Alan - Did you have to drill new holes in your transom?
Alan Heckman posted 07-24-2014 07:17 AM ET (US)
No I didn't . My previous motor was a 2005 Mercury 75 2 stroke and no new holes were needed, the mounting holes lined up.
NHHobie posted 08-02-2014 11:04 AM ET (US)
Hi All...
One thing to remember on the non-smirked 16'7" hull is that it has a rather "athletic ride" at speed in any sort of chop. Lots of fun for the younger crowd, but for us with older bladders and maybe a few fillings....he-he.
My 1969 Nauset has a 1984 70 HP 2S and the old gal flies. Have yet to add a jack plate I picked up off ebay a few years back to smooth out the ride a bit.
Hobie
half shell posted 09-29-2014 01:03 PM ET (US)
[What is the price] for a new Yamaha F70 installed with new rigging?

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Author	Topic: Montauk 16 or 17 Re-power with 60-HP
gpj	posted 07-19-2014 01:11 PM ET (US) I am considering re-powering my 1975 Montauk with a 60 hp Mercury ELPT with EFI. I am moving the battery to the console. The boat will be run in Pine Island Sound in Florida with occasional trips into the Gulf of Mexico on very calm days. I am not a speed demon. It is conceivable we may want to pull a kid on a tube at some point. Would this motor be sufficient? Thanks!
Dick E	posted 07-20-2014 07:28 AM ET (US) 60 HP is the minimum HP motor I would have. I would get a 90 HP and have that reserve power available when a thunderstorm is imminent. Much better resale with a 90 down the road and can water ski easy with a 90HP. Kids grow up fast!.60 HP will work, but you may regret later on.
gpj	posted 07-20-2014 08:53 AM ET (US) Thanks for the reply, Dick. I had forgotten about those thunderstorms in SW Florida. They pop up quick and roll in fast! After spending so much time on this board, I believe I have become VERY conscious of stern weight. I really want to be under 300#. I like the idea of buying a US engineered and manufactured motor (although I seem to remember reading that the 60hp is assembled in China). If Mercury had an equivalent of the Yamaha F70, it would probably be a no-brainer. Unfortunately, their 4s line seems to go from 60 to 75hp, and the 75 hp is nearly 100lb heavier than the F70. It is looking like I will be forced to go with the F70 if I want a 4s motor.
PeteB88	posted 07-20-2014 11:07 PM ET (US) Buy a 90 - made for that hull and 60 HP hurts your resale value big time.
gpj	posted 07-21-2014 12:27 AM ET (US) Pete - This is an old non-smirked Montauk, with the 16'7" hull, low gunnels, and low, low transom. I have never run the boat, but I'm afraid a 350 pound motor will make it sit too low, take too much water over the transom, or mean I can't put anything or anybody in the stern. I THINK my hull is dry. I would love to have a 90hp motor. I think motors last much longer when they aren't run at full throttle all the time. Reserve power means reserve speed, and reserve speed can occasionally get you out of trouble. This repowering decision is a lot more complicated than I thought it would be. Does anybody know of any 300# 90hp four strokes on the horizon ;-)
Lupi	posted 07-21-2014 06:48 AM ET (US) If you want a brand new engine that does not exceed 300 lbs weight, the best choice is the Yamaha F70. In this power range, it is the only one that is below 300 lbs. We had the same issue when it came to repower a Sakonnet(16.7 hull). Great motor this F70...
Ridge Runner	posted 07-21-2014 06:50 AM ET (US) I would put the Yamaha F70 on this boat at 257lb it is a good option and there are a lot of supporting dealers in SW Florida. Even the ETEC 90Hp and 75Hp are 320lb, 63lbs heaver. I would have two prop's for this motor a "standard" 13-1/2 x 16 for all around use and a smaller pitched prop for water sports. My guess is you would top out at just under 40MPH with a moderate load.
gpj	posted 07-22-2014 07:53 AM ET (US) Great feedback, Lupi and Ridge. It's starting to look like the F70 is the only practical motor for this boat. I would have preferred to buy an American engineered and manufactured motor, but Merc just isn't making it possible. They really need an F70 equivalent. Ridge - Are those ss props, or do you make do with the Al?
macfam	posted 07-22-2014 08:07 AM ET (US) Years ago, we had a Nauset model with a 70hp 2-stroke, 3cyl. Merc. Absolutely adequate power for that hull. Boston Whaler used to feature that hull with 55 hp Homelites. Go for the F70.
andrey320	posted 07-22-2014 01:59 PM ET (US) I repowered my 15 Dauntless (which weighs about the same as a classic Montauk) with a 60 Honda. I was debating between the Yamaha F70 and the Honda BF60 and went with the Honda mostly due to my brand loyalty. I also very rarely get to push the boat past 30mph (primarily boating in the Santa Barbara / Catalina Channels. With the right prop, the boat tops out at 36mph and has plenty of "go" when needed. The BF60 uses what it calls "Blast" to richen the fuel mixture at full throttle which I think helps with hole shot.
PeteB88	posted 07-22-2014 04:55 PM ET (US) Oh - - I was just on one w older very low hour Evinrude 88 and it was nearly perfect for that boat. I like extra power available however, rarely run WOT. I'm sure you will make a good decision.
Ridge Runner	posted 07-22-2014 09:03 PM ET (US) Your rigging dealer should help with prop selection. I would look at the standard prop being SS: Yamaha Painted Stainless Steel Diameter/Pitch 13-1/2 x 16 Yamaha Part # 688-45978-60-98 Depending on what kind of water sports ... tubing or skiing... I would drop 2 inches of pitch for pulling skiers in deep water starts or large tube... you do need to be careful driving with out pulling a tube or skier as you could over rev.
Alan Heckman	posted 07-23-2014 07:08 AM ET (US) I have a 1999 Alert 17 with a Yamaha F70 with a Yamaha Performance Series prop on it as recommended by Tom Clark and it is a great prop for a 17 ft. Hull. The fuel economy is unbelievably great on the F70, it seems to run on fumes! Sorry I almost forgot the prop is a 13.25 x 14.
Lupi	posted 07-23-2014 07:56 AM ET (US) I was about to say that a 16 pitch SS would be a bit too much, but I am not an expert in prop. Just to say that the Sakonnet we have with this F70 is propped with an aluminium 13.25*15. So I'm not surprised to read that Tom Clark recommended a 14 pitch stainless steel...
gpj	posted 07-23-2014 01:52 PM ET (US) The group’s input is incredibly useful. I particularly appreciate the case studies! I am going to go with the F70. Between the low weight, reputation for reliability, and fuel efficiency, it seems to be the 4s repower option of choice for a 16'7" hull. I also see a lot of them Around North Captiva and in Pine Island Sound, so there must be some good local dealers around. The only negative is the price: the F70 is $2k more than the Chinese assembled Merc 60 EFI 4s. However, $2k for 10 extra hp and a lot more piece of mind seems reasonable. I finished removing the old motor in preparation for the repower. There were a few surprises: some bad; some good. Good - The steering apparatus (Teleflex Big-T) is in pretty good shape. There is no backlash in the gears, and the cable seems perfect. - The railing support holes were solid and dry. - The console came off without any trouble. - The boat has a good quality 3-piece rub that came off with no problem. There was no evidence of hull wetness. - Even though it was painted, the nonskid seems to be in pretty good shape. Bad - There were four extra holes in the transom, which will mean some extra work. Actually, six of the holes may need to be repaired. The bottom holes may be too high for the motor mounting bracket. At least all eight of the holes were bone dry. In fact, knock on teak, I think I have a relatively dry hull. - The steering bezel is chromed pot metal with quite a bit of pitting. Chrome replacements seem hard to find. The ones online are black (powder coated, I assume) and expensive (around $125). - The rail standoffs are chromed brass, and most of the chrome is gone. - Three of the 10 console screw holes were stripped. - The boat has an aftermarket reproduction of the original Whaler bow light. The mounting plate doesn’t perfectly match the contour of the bow. The bulb holder is probably shot. - Bad: the boat is painted inside and out. I am not sure what type of paint was used the hull was not properly prepped before painting, which means the paint may not be of the highest quality. - The console has quite a few small holes, plus one large (3”) hole. - The original Whaler instrument panels are gone, replaced by Maiko panels. On the bright side, the Maiko panels have very good Perko switches, including several unused extras. - The spoke/hub welds on the ss steering are broken. I have decided I will have to sand and repaint everything. Even though my wife and I have finished making the new cushions, and the wood is all refurbished (but not refinished: I’m still on the fence between oil and varnish), it looks like the boat won’t be ready for repowering until the end of September. Thank you once again for all of your help with this project!
Alan Heckman	posted 07-23-2014 04:35 PM ET (US) If you do go with the F70 and a Yamaha Performance series 13.25 x 14 prop have your motor mounted 3 holes up,that's as high as you can mount it. I did because that's where Tom Clark said to mount it. MY dealer said it was too high and I would be back to lower it and after he said that it did look too high but after running it I can tell you, it's perfect. Good hole shot, easy steering, and NO ventilation on hard turns. Tops out about 38 mph at 6200 rpm.
gpj	posted 07-23-2014 10:56 PM ET (US) Alan - Did you have to drill new holes in your transom?
Alan Heckman	posted 07-24-2014 07:17 AM ET (US) No I didn't . My previous motor was a 2005 Mercury 75 2 stroke and no new holes were needed, the mounting holes lined up.
NHHobie	posted 08-02-2014 11:04 AM ET (US) Hi All... One thing to remember on the non-smirked 16'7" hull is that it has a rather "athletic ride" at speed in any sort of chop. Lots of fun for the younger crowd, but for us with older bladders and maybe a few fillings....he-he. My 1969 Nauset has a 1984 70 HP 2S and the old gal flies. Have yet to add a jack plate I picked up off ebay a few years back to smooth out the ride a bit. Hobie
half shell	posted 09-29-2014 01:03 PM ET (US) [What is the price] for a new Yamaha F70 installed with new rigging?