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Author Topic:   Outrage 18 Re-power with E-TEC 150-HP
dfrazee posted 06-20-2015 08:21 AM ET (US)   Profile for dfrazee   Send Email to dfrazee  
I just bought [another] boat, a motor, and a trailer [only] for the 2008 E-TEC 150 [because the original 150-HP outboard engine on the Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18 has seized]. I am seeking advice on possible setback, jack plate, hydraulic steering upgrade, controls, and what parts of the install I can perform myself. The [Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18] is very close to stock with a stern mounted single battery. No T-top or heavy accessories, just a Bimini top. Usage ranges from trot-lining, fishing, skiing, and wakeboarding. I have installed a removable 3-point ski pylon.

I would like to do as much of the installation as possible, but bring the boat to a recommended dealer (not the closest) for final rigging and testing. My plan is to mount motor, jack plate, and install hydraulic steering, but have the dealer install the controls and test.

I'm thinking of using a 6-inch to 8-inch Detwiler manual Jack plate. Will this help in handling and fuel efficiency? Is a 6-inch to 8-inch setback sensible considering intended usage?

Will the Seastar HK6400A kit with 18-foot lines work with an 8-inch setback? Any words of wisdom on installation?

The donor boat has a 3-inch tachometer gauge with [System Check annunciator lamps], a 2-inch fuel tank level gauge, and a 2-inch trim gauge. It also has side-mount control with mechanical cables and integral key switch. I want binnacle control with a separate key switch. I am looking to better understand options and cost of [Evinrude ICON electronic throttle and shift compared to] mechanical controls, and also sensible gauge options. I want a good result, but am cost conscious.

I have three stainless steel propellers that fit my old Black Max. I am unsure of brands and models. Two are 19-pitch one is a 21-pitch. I am unsure if any of these would fit or work well. I may just buy a new propeller. Please [give] recommendations with no restrictions on brand and model.

Much Thanks!


jimh posted 06-20-2015 09:10 AM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
Mounting an E-TEC 150-HP outboard engine on a Boston Whaler OUTRAGE 18 using an 8-inch setback bracket will probably not make a huge difference in performance. It will get the rigging out of the engine splash well area, which then creates some added usable space in the splash well. It will be like stretching the boat a few inches longer.

Most setback brackets have adjustable lift, so you can raise or lower the engine. To tell the truth, when I had a setback bracket with jack plate on my boat, I made a total of one adjustment.

There is a long article about setback brackets in the REFERENCE section. If you have not read it, I suggest you do. It will answer many questions. I describe many details about use of setback brackets in

Standard Transoms and Brackets

Hydraulic steering today is most commonly accomplished with a center-mount balanced actuator. An alternative is a side-mount actuator, which seems less popular today, but was once the standard rigging from Boston Whaler. There are advantages and disadvantages to each method.

The side-mount hydraulic steering has the advantage that the hydraulic actuator and its hoses do not move. This creates simpler and neater rigging. The disadvantage is the cylinder is not a balanced system, that is, more fluid is pumped in moving in one direction than the other. As a result, these unbalanced cylinders cannot be used with autopilots.

The center-mount hydraulic steering is balanced and can be used with autopilots. The disadvantage is its actuator and attached hoses move, and the rigging must allow for this. The result is a rather messy engine splash well with hydraulic hoses moving back and forth, following the travel of the actuator.

I have first-hand experience in converting an E-TEC engine with mechanical controls to Evinrude ICON electronic throttle and shift (ICON EST) controls. I describe this process in

ICON Controls for E-TEC
Re-fitting electronic engine remote controls to an existing engine

Use of Evinrude ICON EST controls greatly reduces the number of mechanical cables and electrical wiring harnesses necessary. Whether or not the expense of fitting ICON EST on a single engine installation will be justified is hard to say. It will be a very expensive refit. I would not undertake the refit if buying all of the components at their normal retail price. Evinrude has, from time to time, offered very generous rigging allowances, credits, and other incentives to encourage customers to use ICON EST controls, and under those circumstances the cost of the upgrade is quite justifiable. Without the factory incentives, and considering your comment that your re-fit is "cost conscious," I do not anticipate you will find refitting with Evinrude ICON EST controls to be an option. The cost will be likely greater than $3,500 more than conventional control rigging. Work with a qualified dealer to get an exact quote.

I have first-hand experience in installation of Evinrude ICON gauges. I describe the process in

ICON Gauges for E-TEC
Modern Electronic Engine Instrumentation

If you seek a better understand of ICON EST controls and ICON instrumentation, I highly recommend you read the two article I have written about them. You can also find a third article explaining the general nature of electronic engine throttle and shift controls. See

Modern Electronic Remote Engine Controls
ICON Throttle and Shift Controls for E-TEC

From your narrative I infer you have an Evinrude System Check tachometer gauge. This can be used with the E-TEC. The TRIM gauge can, too. For more about rigging an E-TEC see my lengthy notes, presented in two articles:

E-TEC Rigging Notes

Advanced E-TEC Rigging

The above two articles contain detailed text and many illustrations that will be useful to gain further understanding of E-TEC engine rigging.

For propeller selection, I recommend you wait until you have the E-TEC engine installed, rigged, and operating. You have a great deal of work to accomplish before you get to propeller selection. You will also be spending a great deal of money on the installation. This may affect your options for choice of propeller. To suggest you purchase a particular brand and model of propeller now seems premature. You already have three propeller. Test them. You may already have a suitable propeller. In any case, data from your testing of your three propellers will provide insight on what sort of propeller might improve the performance.

It is difficult to assess how much of the installation of an E-TEC 150-HP you can perform yourself, as I have no idea of your level of skill or familiarity with engine installation and rigging. In general, you should establish a relationship with an authorized Evinrude dealer. Confer with the dealer about your plans.

Since the E-TEC engine is a used outboard engine, I don't believe there will be any particular concerns about having an authorized dealer sign-off on the installation for warranty. A 2008 engine is probably no longer in warranty.

dfrazee posted 06-20-2015 02:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfrazee  Send Email to dfrazee     
Wow, thanks so much Jim, I will take time to read the articles. As for level of experience, I'm not afraid to tackle anything.

I have an engine hoist and can swap the motors w/o a problem. I had an engine failure a year ago and built up a 1983 Black Max short block from a parts engine and installed it on the 18. rebuilt carbs fuel pump etc and it still looks immaculate. Unfortunately it seems I have spun a bearing (pistons/cylinders look fine).

For the new 2 me ETEC, I intend to install the motor, setback bracket, hydraulic steering. If the donor boat had binnacle mount controls, I might just do the whole install myself. Where I am a bit fuzzy is what I should have the dealer do. My understanding is that the ETEC has proprietary engine diagnostics that require dealer only service. I assume the 8 year old motor has never been serviced, and it should get a new WP impeller at minimum. Any other service recommended considering the age and claimed hours (~30) on the motor. Also, the engine has largely sat unused for the last 5-years.

What can and cannot be done by a home mechanic for installation? How about maintenance?

The donor tach, fuel and trim gauges will work fine. I know I need a single binnacle mount control and a key switch, anything else? Can the throttle/shift cables from the donor boat be moved over to the binnacle control? I will skip ICON since mechanical controls are the budget option. Can you make specific recommendations on what parts will be necessary to complete the install?


Whalrman posted 06-21-2015 12:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for Whalrman  Send Email to Whalrman     
Hi Doug, I had a 1990 BW 18 outrage with the E-TEC 150, Mod. # E150DPXSUF and ran fantastic. Had the twin cable steering from Teleflex which I changed later to a single cable NO-FEED BACK system of which worked fine, hydraulic was not in the budget. Engine mounted ALL the way up and ran the Viper prop with 17 pitch. One battery and the 1.8 gal oil tank mounted in the splash well, bim. top, 60 gal. of fuel and me (250 lbs.) and could reach 49 mph easy. As for your E-TEC get the service manual from BRP and the installation guide from BRP to help you with proper install and service you can do your self. The engine will need the PRV checked for operation, pita to get to, thermos changed, spark plugs changed and INDEXED, exhaust fitting cleaned or changed out, grease the tilt and pivot shaft, remove lu and change the w/p with a complete BRP kit, Change the upper bearing carrier o-ring, drop the lu oil and drain/fill screw washers, replace the oil with the HPX Pro oil, grease the prop shaft. May need to check if any revision to the EMM is needed (dealer). Set engine to the tcw-3 oil setting and run the XD 100 BRP oil. IMO the 18 outrage runs great without a jack-plate,hole shot and top end speed is there. Can't run WOT all the time, unless you are on a lake at 0600 hrs running to your spot to catch the bass. Current boat is the 1999/2000 BW 18 outrage with the E-TEC 150 (2012 mod.) same gauges as you have with no problems, the analog tacho due run low in reading (50 to 300 rpms). 5750 rpm should be reached, boat loaded with what you are doing.
dfrazee posted 06-21-2015 05:13 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfrazee  Send Email to dfrazee     
Thanks Whalerman,

Thanks for all your helpful info. I will get the service & installation manuals and install myself. I will also forgo the jack plate, based on your post.

A couple of clarifications and a follow on question:

1. What does INDEX the spark plugs mean?
2. Why do you recommend setting to tcw-3 but using XD 100? Won't that use twice the necessary oil? Is this a dealer setting or can I change it?

FYI, I knowingly bought a long shaft motor and plan to convert to XL using a kit from Bay Manufacturing My local BRP dealer says the conversion will be fine... fingers crossed.

Would it be reasonable to get it all working and then go into the local platinum certified dealer and have them check the motor out? Anything else that must by done by the dealer?


seahorse posted 06-21-2015 11:41 PM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse    

Indexing plugs lines up the spark plug electrode gap to face or be within 90° of either side of the injector centerline.

You can use XD-100 at any setting. For high speed use and for the best in engine protection, it is recommended to use XD-100 at the TC-W3 factory oil programming setting.

seahorse posted 06-21-2015 11:52 PM ET (US)     Profile for seahorse    

Here is a link to download a factory pre-delivery and rigging manual. It is a 2011 version as there is no link for a 2008 version. OwnersManuals_EJ/attach/Accessories/5008506_EN.pdf

Order the factory service manual from your dealer or from

Having a dealer check over your installation and rigging along with bleeding and purging the oil system and starting up the motor for you is a great idea.

Go over the maintenance schedule and either you or the dealer perform the complete 3 year/300 hr. servicing.

Whalrman posted 06-22-2015 09:52 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalrman  Send Email to Whalrman     
+1 to Seahorse's post, he knows what he's talking about, trust me!!! Also add a fuel filter/separator before the engine and make sure that the fuel line from the tank is new 3/8" ID hose. Check the anti-syphon valve at the tank, if equipped, for operation, or remove entirely.
Whalrman posted 06-22-2015 09:59 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalrman  Send Email to Whalrman     
I almost forgot- Change out or clean the VST filter, small cone shaped filter which is cleanable and may want to clean the fuel filter at the bottom of the hi-press. fuel pump next to the VST canister as well.
dfrazee posted 06-22-2015 08:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for dfrazee  Send Email to dfrazee     
Thanks everyone, I established a relationship w/ local dealer who lightened my wallet for me and provided good info. Plan is:

* Seastar HK6400A center mount hydraulic steering w/ 18' hoses
* BRP binnacle mount cable control w/ integral key switch
* System check tach, trim and fuel gauges from donor boat (my replaced fuel tank has an electric sender)
* Bay Manufacturing Long to X-Long shaft kit
* No setback or jack plate, start at one hole from highest mounting
* Single Group 27 Battery and Oil tank (mtd in group 24 box) in splashwell
* Fabricating new gauge panels from 1/16 carbon fiber sheets
* try 19 pitch SS prop I already own, upgrade/optimize later

Will likely be a 2-3 weeks to complete as I have to steal time to work on the boat - will check back in with pictures and updates.


PS: I ordered a shop manual, bought parts for recommended DIY service and printed out and am studying the install guide. Will bring the boat to the dealer to check my work, pull diagnostics from the motor and flash needed updates.

Whalrman posted 06-23-2015 09:19 AM ET (US)     Profile for Whalrman  Send Email to Whalrman     
Cool, look foreward to your next post and pics. Good luck!

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