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ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
New Heat Shrink Connectors
|Author||Topic: New Heat Shrink Connectors|
posted 04-24-2006 06:32 PM ET (US)
If you have been reading here about heat shrink this, and connector that, here is your solution. After trying many different units at Home Depot and West Marine, DUMP YOUR WHOLE ELCTRICAL DRAWER.
This is the best and least expensive fool proof way to go. Thanks to Elusive (on THT) for pointing me here: delcity.net. It is an electrical paradise. Do not ask questions, just order these butt connectors that have heat shrink AND SOLDER in them for a perfect connection everytime. Using a crimper that is ratchet style and won't let go until you press enuf (watch your fingers!)
BTW, I think I heard Delcity is owned by Ancor.
posted 04-24-2006 08:34 PM ET (US)
[Reports a problem in viewing the DelCity website.]
How do you use the connectors? Do you solder it first, then crimp, then followed by heat shrink?
posted 04-24-2006 10:00 PM ET (US)
Going back to my A-school days in the Navy, I just don't see how you can get a good solder joint with these. The items being soldered have to be heated to point where the solder will flow, and if the wire ends are already in the heat shrink when you hit it with the heat gun, I can't believe the conductors are actually gonna heat up any appreciable amount...
posted 04-24-2006 10:33 PM ET (US)
Such doubting thomases - buy a few...and try it....
posted 04-25-2006 07:39 AM ET (US)
I used to sell a similar connector from Raychem (now TYCO). To do it right you should use a heat gun which applies the heat 360 degrees around the connector.
Generally there is a color stripe that will change color when the proper temperature is reached to insure that the solder sleeve has flowed. I don't see any mark on these but it may be there.
posted 04-26-2006 08:45 AM ET (US)
The biggest improvement to shrinkwrap that could be made would be a highly visible warning printed every 3 inches..
"Slide the shrink wrap onto the wire BEFORE you crimp and/or solder the connection, you moron."
posted 04-26-2006 09:44 AM ET (US)
I don't believe these crimp connectors with pre-cut shrink wrap were designed for soldering. Nor do I think you can raise the temperature with a heat gun to the point where solder would melt and flow. Well, maybe with a helluva heat gun, but not the usual heat gun intended just to heat shrink wrap.
I would not crimp a connector after it is soldered.
Hmm--I just read the description more carefully. It does sound like these splice connectors are designed for soldering. Perhaps the heat shrink material is made to tolerate higher temperatures. Usually solder needs about 750-degrees-F to flow.
posted 04-26-2006 10:21 AM ET (US)
I dunno of Del City is owned by Ancor or not, but I can't find
these butt connectors on Ancor's website.
Jimh: low-temperature solder.
posted 04-27-2006 08:02 AM ET (US)
Heat guns can get pretty hot - mine is just a plain old $65 Weller model and I can melt solder with it.
posted 04-27-2006 09:21 AM ET (US)
Typical heat shrink like ALPHA FIT® 375 polyvinylidene fluoride will shrink in size at a 2:1 ratio at 150°C. (302°F). The "operating" temperature is rated to 175°C (347°F).
Typical non-eutectic 60/40 electrical solder melts above 375°F.
From the above temperature ranges it looks to me like heat shrink and solder within the the same heat range are mutually incompatible. That is, the heat shrink is out of its temperature range before the solder begins to melt.
The normal tip temperature for a soldering iron used to solder wire of 10-AWG is probably around 800°F.
Perhaps these connectors employ some special combination of a heat shrink material that can tolerate unusually high temperatures and a solder that melts at unusually low temperatures.
posted 04-27-2006 10:38 AM ET (US)
Jimh: They say they use low-temperature solder.
posted 04-28-2006 05:28 PM ET (US)
on the subject of connecting wires , do i need to solder the wires when i replace my regulator? Right now they are butt connected with the shrink tubeing sealing them but i do not see solder on the original factory connections.
posted 04-29-2006 12:02 PM ET (US)
Jimh, I know you like technical stuff so here you go:
posted 04-29-2006 09:19 PM ET (US)
Wow, that looks impressive, thanks for sharing it Dave!
Seems like now we have at least 3 good sources to make our wiring connections in our boats: Ancor, Delcity and now Raychem.
Wonder if anyone has shown his preference yet...
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