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Author Topic:   Tachometer Wiring
Lyle g posted 11-28-2006 11:03 AM ET (US)   Profile for Lyle g   Send Email to Lyle g  
[Seeks information on wiring tachometer, particularly an OMC brand.]
an86carrera posted 11-28-2006 12:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for an86carrera  Send Email to an86carrera     
The blue [conductor] is for the light and black [conductor] for the (-).

Len

Tom W Clark posted 11-28-2006 07:20 PM ET (US)     Profile for Tom W Clark  Send Email to Tom W Clark     
Strictly speaking you only need three wires to make a tachometer work.

Power (battery +) usually switched through the ignition switch. PURPLE (VIOLET, if you prefer)
Ground (battery -) BLACK
Tachometer pulse sender GRAY

To make the optional instrument light within the tachometer work, connect power, switched through (typically) the navigation lights BLUE

jimh posted 11-28-2006 09:46 PM ET (US)     Profile for jimh  Send Email to jimh     
The general color coding of the wiring used by OMC is given in an article I wrote for the REFERENCE section. Please see

Marine Wiring Color Codes
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/wireColorCode.html

for guidance on wiring color codes.

The general arrangement of an outboard engine tachometer will be to have terminals with the following legends, uses, and associated wiring:

I = ignition, a +12 volt source which is provided by the ignition switch when in the RUN or START positions; the VIOLET conductor

G = ground, the 12-volt common or battery negative; the BLACK conductor

S = sender, a half-wave rectified signal from the engine's battery charging winding; the GRAY conductor

L = lamp, often supplied via a switch and in common with other instrument lighting; a source of +12 volts to illuminate the instrument; the BLUE conductor

Some OMC tachometers are wired directly to a harness with a connector. The connector mates with a matching one in the remote control wiring harness.

Lyle g posted 11-29-2006 08:41 AM ET (US)     Profile for Lyle g  Send Email to Lyle g     
thanks every-one use heat shink connectors made all the connection,works great.I'am guessing the last time it was hooked up was in 1995.

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