posted 05-13-2008 11:47 AM ET (US)        

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I checked [a manufacturer's] on-line [listing of parts and supplies], and they only seem to sell a 6-foot power cable [for their devices]. I tried [to buy] 18-AWG stranded wire at West Mrine and other marine stores. They didn't seem to have any [power cables] close to [the manufacturer's power] cable. I figured I could just use heat shrink butt connector to extend the cable, but I'd prefer not to have break in cable.

Anyone else encounter this problem? Did you find a longer cable from [the original manufacturer] or get waterproof 18-AWG stranded wire and extend [the power cord]?

posted 05-13-2008 06:28 PM ET (US)            

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Just get some Ancor 18 gauge boat cable from West or whereever, and extend the [manufacturer's] cable. I'd solder and cover with the Ancor hot melt glue lined heatshrink.

Chuck

posted 05-13-2008 07:59 PM ET (US)            

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It is unusual that you do not have a source of battery voltage closer to your instrument. I recommend you install a secondary battery distribution circuit so that you have power available for your small boat electronics that is no more than a few feet away from them.

Wiring all devices directly to a battery terminal is not particularly good practice and often results in a lot of haywire.

posted 05-14-2008 10:08 AM ET (US)            

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If I were to use a battery distribution circuit instead of an in line fuse setup how would I tap into my power source near the side console? Ignition wires or would I have to run wire from the battery up to console and connect to a circuit? I'm assuming these circuits have internal fuses?

As I mentioned before I believe that I have a similar circuit box in the back port side of the boat that when opened has several terminals and the bow lights are powered from here beneath the rub rail? Would this circuit box have fuses inside also?