Baitwell Pump - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
  Baitwell Pump

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   Baitwell Pump

wmeier posted 07-18-2009 08:53 PM ET (US)
The baitwell pump on my 2008 Outrage 190 had failed. I have replaced the the pump which seem pretty straight forward however I can not get the new one to run. Let's put it this way: before I crimped the wires together, I hooked up the wires. I tested it just a few seconds to ensure that I had it right. Then I crimped the wires into the butt-end connectors and ran another test. This time [the electrical motor in the pump] would not work. I managed to disconnect the wires from the butt-end connection and touch them together again, but [the electrical motor in the pump] would not work. I checked all the normal items like the fuse. Then frustrated, I walked away and came back again and touched the wires again. And [the electrical motor in the pump] ran. Any ideas where the problem may be? I can not see any loose connections. Fuse seems to be okay.
jimh posted 07-19-2009 11:48 AM ET (US)
Check the instructions which came with the pump. In some of these bilge pumps there is a built-in controller circuit which tries to automate the operation of the pump. I will explain the general technique they use:
When power is applied to the pump motor, the motor runs briefly. The controller senses the current being drawn by the motor. The controller makes an inference about the load on the motor as follows:
--if the current is low, the pump is running dry, that is, there is no water to be pumped;
--if the current is high, the pump is moving water
If the controller decides the pump is running dry, it shuts off the motor and goes into a period of dormancy. The dormant period is of a duration on the order of ten minutes. At the end of the dormant period, the controller again runs the motor briefly to see if there is any water to pump. If no water, it goes dormant and repeats the cycle.
If there is a load on the motor, the motor runs.
The precise behavior of your pump is unknown to me, but it could very well have such a circuit. When the power to the unit goes OFF, the unit could still remain in some sort of dormant state due to a stored charge on a timing capacitor.
If you make the assumption that the pump you bought contains such a self-controlling apparatus, the behavior of the pump in your narrative is consistent with that sort of design.
highanddry posted 07-19-2009 04:04 PM ET (US)
I would not "touch" any wires together. You might wind up burning the wires, frying the circuit etc. Use a ohm/voltmeter, that si what they are for.
You may have ruined the fuse block or shorted a wire touching them together.
Salty Tricks posted 07-19-2009 09:12 PM ET (US)
I'm betting Jim is right...you probably picked up an "automatic" bilge pump as a replacement instead of a standard pump.
wmeier posted 07-20-2009 07:15 PM ET (US)
Thanks the thoughts. I did not cross the pos/neg together but did check with a voltmeter that there 12 volts in the line to the pump thus can be fuse of bad connection. With regards to the pump I bought the exact same model that came with the boat: Shurflo 500 sentry. I did some reading online where a number of guys apparently had problems with even new pumps and switch to Rule pumps. I think that I will be taking this one back and try buying something a little better then what Boston Whaler stocked with the boat.
wmeier posted 07-24-2009 07:40 PM ET (US)
Help! I got a new Rule Pump and hooked it up and guess what? It doesn't work either. I have a voltmeter and tested the point where I made connection to boat's wires. I have a reading of 11.8 volts when I switch the bait well on but no action at the pump. There is a slight reading of less than a volt (maybe just the error on the voltmeter?). I can not think of any reason why this is not working. [Give me some] ideas on how to test the pump and the circuits to track down the problem?
wmeier posted 07-24-2009 08:51 PM ET (US)
Okay so I connected the pumps straight to the battery and they all ran--good news. Now I am really lost where the problem may be? I get almost a 12-volt reading at the connection at the connection wire but pumps do not run. [Give me] any thoughts of what may be the [problem] or how to track it down?
jimh posted 07-25-2009 08:14 AM ET (US)
You have a high resistance connection somewhere. When you measure the voltage with a meter there is only a miniscule current flow. No voltage drop occurs across the resistance. When you connect the pump, it tries to draw current. The voltage drop across the resistance increases. Find the bad connection. Leave the pump connected and check the voltage in the feed to the pump. You will find it drops across some connection in the wiring.

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: Baitwell Pump
wmeier	posted 07-18-2009 08:53 PM ET (US) The baitwell pump on my 2008 Outrage 190 had failed. I have replaced the the pump which seem pretty straight forward however I can not get the new one to run. Let's put it this way: before I crimped the wires together, I hooked up the wires. I tested it just a few seconds to ensure that I had it right. Then I crimped the wires into the butt-end connectors and ran another test. This time [the electrical motor in the pump] would not work. I managed to disconnect the wires from the butt-end connection and touch them together again, but [the electrical motor in the pump] would not work. I checked all the normal items like the fuse. Then frustrated, I walked away and came back again and touched the wires again. And [the electrical motor in the pump] ran. Any ideas where the problem may be? I can not see any loose connections. Fuse seems to be okay.
jimh	posted 07-19-2009 11:48 AM ET (US) Check the instructions which came with the pump. In some of these bilge pumps there is a built-in controller circuit which tries to automate the operation of the pump. I will explain the general technique they use: When power is applied to the pump motor, the motor runs briefly. The controller senses the current being drawn by the motor. The controller makes an inference about the load on the motor as follows: --if the current is low, the pump is running dry, that is, there is no water to be pumped; --if the current is high, the pump is moving water If the controller decides the pump is running dry, it shuts off the motor and goes into a period of dormancy. The dormant period is of a duration on the order of ten minutes. At the end of the dormant period, the controller again runs the motor briefly to see if there is any water to pump. If no water, it goes dormant and repeats the cycle. If there is a load on the motor, the motor runs. The precise behavior of your pump is unknown to me, but it could very well have such a circuit. When the power to the unit goes OFF, the unit could still remain in some sort of dormant state due to a stored charge on a timing capacitor. If you make the assumption that the pump you bought contains such a self-controlling apparatus, the behavior of the pump in your narrative is consistent with that sort of design.
highanddry	posted 07-19-2009 04:04 PM ET (US) I would not "touch" any wires together. You might wind up burning the wires, frying the circuit etc. Use a ohm/voltmeter, that si what they are for. You may have ruined the fuse block or shorted a wire touching them together.
Salty Tricks	posted 07-19-2009 09:12 PM ET (US) I'm betting Jim is right...you probably picked up an "automatic" bilge pump as a replacement instead of a standard pump.
wmeier	posted 07-20-2009 07:15 PM ET (US) Thanks the thoughts. I did not cross the pos/neg together but did check with a voltmeter that there 12 volts in the line to the pump thus can be fuse of bad connection. With regards to the pump I bought the exact same model that came with the boat: Shurflo 500 sentry. I did some reading online where a number of guys apparently had problems with even new pumps and switch to Rule pumps. I think that I will be taking this one back and try buying something a little better then what Boston Whaler stocked with the boat.
wmeier	posted 07-24-2009 07:40 PM ET (US) Help! I got a new Rule Pump and hooked it up and guess what? It doesn't work either. I have a voltmeter and tested the point where I made connection to boat's wires. I have a reading of 11.8 volts when I switch the bait well on but no action at the pump. There is a slight reading of less than a volt (maybe just the error on the voltmeter?). I can not think of any reason why this is not working. [Give me some] ideas on how to test the pump and the circuits to track down the problem?
wmeier	posted 07-24-2009 08:51 PM ET (US) Okay so I connected the pumps straight to the battery and they all ran--good news. Now I am really lost where the problem may be? I get almost a 12-volt reading at the connection at the connection wire but pumps do not run. [Give me] any thoughts of what may be the [problem] or how to track it down?
jimh	posted 07-25-2009 08:14 AM ET (US) You have a high resistance connection somewhere. When you measure the voltage with a meter there is only a miniscule current flow. No voltage drop occurs across the resistance. When you connect the pump, it tries to draw current. The voltage drop across the resistance increases. Find the bad connection. Leave the pump connected and check the voltage in the feed to the pump. You will find it drops across some connection in the wiring.