Moderated Discussion Areas
ContinuousWave: Small Boat Electrical
LED Replacement Lamp for PERKO Combined Sidelight
|Author||Topic: LED Replacement Lamp for PERKO Combined Sidelight|
posted 04-01-2010 06:27 PM ET (US)
I need to replace the broken lens on my red-green [combined sidelight lamp], again. My crew seems to be able to smack it periodically with the anchor.
However, if I'm going to have to remove the lamp, repair it and reinstall it I'd just as soon replace the entire lamp with an LED lamp. The boat is a 1999 16 Dauntless and I would like to find a like piece part replacement. The lamp is a Perko and frankly I've had to replace the bulbs more often than I care to remember.
Has Perko started marketing LED navigation lamps? I'll try a google but my old PDF Perko Catalog has no LED lamps.
Another brand would work but I sure would like to use the existing screw holes if you know of any LED fixture that would fit.
posted 04-02-2010 07:36 AM ET (US)
Perko has their current catalogue available on-line at
posted 04-02-2010 12:56 PM ET (US)
What boat is that for?
Isn't the BW light a proprietary lens used just for them?
I tried a "bayonet" type LED bulb in my Montauk 170 combined front light and it was actually dimmer than the incandescent bulb. I put the incandescent bulb back in.
posted 04-02-2010 12:57 PM ET (US)
Oops..I see your description of the boat now.
posted 04-02-2010 02:41 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies.
After using Google and looking around I've found that Perko only offers their Cat No. 0619 Series Bi-Color lights. They look like a nice light but are three to four times larger than my original Perko. The light is about four inches long by three inches wide and tear drop shaped.
Attwood also has an LED one mile light Cat No. 35207 and two mile light No. 352407.
I plan to find the Attwood lights' dimensions this evening.
It looks almost certain that in order to preserve the original appearance of my Dauntless the only LED option is to replace the OEM incandescent bulb and socket with an LED bulb.
I'm torn by the decision because the original Perko light's lenses are so flimsy and prone to damage. I guess I can always just order a half dozen lens sets and replace them as they fail. I also need to find a way to waterproof the lenses as they are prone to leakage and subsequent bulb and or socket failure. You''d think an old quality company like Perko could do a better job. Or, perhaps it's my work methods that need improvement.
posted 04-02-2010 04:10 PM ET (US)
Butch, I have purchased one of the Attwood one-mile LED combined sidelights for my 2002 Dauntless 180. I hope to install it sometime within the next week or so. It is about the same size as the original Perko combined sidelight, just a little bigger. I can get you the exact measurements sometime this weekend if you still need them. The screw holes on the Attwood light do not line up with the screw holes from the Perko light. Also, the place where the wiring exits the Attwood light does not line up with the place where the wiring exits the Perko light. Nevertheless, I believe the Attwood light will fit, and that it will cover all of the holes left from the Perko light.
By the way, I got my Attwood light on Amazon.com for less than half the price West Marine wanted.
posted 04-02-2010 06:28 PM ET (US)
Great news. Please provide the dimensions.
posted 04-03-2010 09:22 AM ET (US)
Information about ATTWOOD navigation lamps is available from their website. Here is a link to information from ATTWOOD about their LED red-green combined sidelight lamp with stainless steel housing:
Details of the constructions and installation are shown in
I don't see any drawings with dimensions.
posted 04-03-2010 11:40 AM ET (US)
I'm going to convert my white all around light to LED. There are Festoon type LEDs that will plug into existing fixtures. The bow red/green light on my Montauk uses a Festoon bulb. One thing I haven't found is how many lumens in a 1 mile and 2 mile light. Here's a source for LED bulbs:
posted 04-03-2010 03:33 PM ET (US)
I replaced my Perko combined sidelight with the Attwood combined sidelight today. I snapped a few photos and took some measurements along the way.
Here's the Perko combined sidelight which is original equipment on my 2002 Dauntless 180: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/PerkoLight. jpg . This is a round fixture, and the base has a diameter of approximately 2-7/16 inches. If you look closely, you can see that the green half of lens is cracked. I often have a problem with corrosion the ends of the festoon light bulb in the Perko fixture. When I removed the fixture today, the wires leading into it were wet.
Next is a photo of the Attwood combined sidelight next to the Perko combined sidelight: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/Side-By-Side. jpg As you can see, the Attwood light is about the same general size as the Perko light. The Attwood light, however, is not circular - it is oblong. The base of the Attwood light measures approximately 3 inches from front to back, and approximately 2-5/16 inches from side to side. Here's a picture of the Perko light sitting on top of the "gasket" that came with the Attwood light, which shows the difference in the footprint of each light: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/Footprint.jpg .
What doesn't show in the pictures above is the fact that Boston Whaler did not do a very good job mounting the Perko light fixture. It was rotated off-center, with the green half facing more forward than it should have been. I had never really noticed this before. However, when I started to install the Attwood fixture, this caused a problem. When I lined the Attwood fixture up on the centerline of the bow, it would not quite cover all three of the holes left from the Perko fixture. I ended up filling the three holes left from the Perko fixture with 3M 4200 (I will have them properly filled at a later date), and did the best I could to cover them with the Attwood fixture while keeping it properly centered. Only the slightest portion of one of the old holes was not covered.
Here's a picture of the completed project with the light off: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/Attwood-Off. jpg . And here's one with the light on: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/Attwood-On. jpg
posted 04-03-2010 03:53 PM ET (US)
One more picture - a side view of the Attwood light, to give you an idea of its shape: http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Bow%20Light/SideView.jpg
posted 04-03-2010 04:12 PM ET (US)
Kevin--Thanks for the article and the pictures. I think your work is going to help sell a lot of ATTWOOD LED combined sidelight lamps.
posted 04-04-2010 10:38 AM ET (US)
Thank you, Kevin! What a great job of presenting a comparison of the two fixtures. I'll be ordering the Attwood fixture right away. So far the amazon.com pricing looks good, thanks for that tip. It is a little [obsessive] to replace the fixture on my Whaler because in eleven years of ownership I have never boated in conditions calling for the light to be in use and I have no plans to ever use it. But, if ever subjected to an inspection, the boat will pass as far as lighting is concerned.
I noticed that the lens on your Perko was cracked almost exactly like mine. From the Attwood photographs it appears that the lenses are better protected by being slightly set back from the front of the fixture.
The Perko fixture on your 18 looks identical to the one on my 16. I believe mine is mounted properly ie. square to the fore - aft line so no extra effort will be required.
I agree with Jim that the Atwood LED fixture will be popular with site members. If not identical with the original it certainly is close.
Jim, is the fixture replacement worth a reference article? If so, I would be happy to take photographs of the process when I change mine. It'll be about two weeks from now.
posted 04-05-2010 08:38 AM ET (US)
I bought the Atwood fixture and took it home to take apart and try to figure out if I could use "the guts" of it to replace the insides to my bow light/chock light fixture on my 1972 21 outrage smoothsides. (I had the socket rot out on the incandescent bulb.
Long story short, even if you just removed the led bulb set up, it is too big to fit in the little dome of the bowlight/chock fixture.
Any recommendations of what has worked for other folks? Thanks in advance.
posted 04-05-2010 02:50 PM ET (US)
Re-fitting an LED illumination source to the Boston Whaler classic combined sidelight and chock fitting should be a project for the Boston Whaler design team. I wonder if they've given any thought to it?
posted 04-06-2010 09:09 AM ET (US)
It is close, but I figure I have a 50-50 shot at getting it to work. It is the 50 dollar pricetag that is stopping me from experimenting.
Do you have the BW design team phone number? I did a search and apparently the CW design team has either not completed it or posted it.
all kidding aside, you can get the bulbs to fit, but with the LEDs, the angle in which they relate to each other can mean the difference between having a collision or not.
posted 04-10-2010 01:31 PM ET (US)
Bought the Atwood LED bow light from WEST Marine a couple of days ago. They matched the Amazon.com price of $30.19. The Amazon price included shipping but the WEST store said they have to add 6.95 shipping charge and, of course, tax.
Still I prefer to support my local bricks and mortar store within reason.
The light goes on next week.
posted 04-11-2010 12:06 PM ET (US)
The proper design of an LED fixture is much more than just fitting an LED into an existing fixture. The life of an LED is very dependent upon the efficient removal of the heat it generates. These simple looking fixtures, if designed properly, have a lot of unseen technology that will assure that the LED junction temperature does not exceed its maximum ratings. In the extreme, you could create a fire hazard.
posted 04-26-2010 08:33 AM ET (US)
thanks for the input. Long story short, I replaced the incandscent set up with the LED set up from the perko light and it came out awsome.
I maintained the appropriate angle between the LEDs as well as made sure that heating was not an issue.
To be quite frank, the LED is far more visible than my repro stainless incandescant set up ever was. I observed the new set up from all the appropriate angles from the boat and it is dead on. I actually wonder if the old set up was legitimately CG approved.
Not a job for the sqeamish, but a solutely worth it.
posted 04-26-2010 10:09 AM ET (US)
Yesterday I finally installed the Atwood LED [combined sidelights] navigation lamp replacing the original Perko incandescent lamp. I was able to use the original wiring hole but had to drill two new holes for the recommended but not included #10 pan head mounting screws.
It was so simple and straight forward that I am embarrassed to have offered to write an article with photographs documenting the procedure. :=(
It was windy so I had to use a propane torch to heat the Ancor heat-to-seal butt connectors. I also learned that the recommended 7/32" drill bit to drill the holes for #10 screws was too small for use with fiberglass. Beware gel coat cracking when installing the mounting screws.
If you undertake this project I recommend you mark a longish center line mark where you will mount the new light. Then use the new mounting gasket to mark the required screw holes. By having the center line mark in place aligning the gasket to mark the screw holes is facilitated.
My only criticism of the Atwood lamp is that the base could be more robust and a third mounting screw forward would make for a more secure mounting. Also, I'm unsure that the mounting gasket is the best solution for preventing water entry. I may later dispense with the gasket in favor of some Boat Life caulk.
posted 04-27-2010 08:45 AM ET (US)
Kevin--There you go--at least one additional sale of an ATTWOOD LED combined sidelight lamp because of you.
Butch--Thanks for the narrative of the installation.
Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.