posted 05-17-2012 08:47 PM ET (US)        

--a combined sidelight lamp at the bow on centerline
--a white all-round lamp (not on centerline) at the stern, one-meter higher

The white all-round lamp at the stern is a nuisance. The combined sidelight lamps are mounted on the bow to the bow railing, and they are carried rather high above the boat deck level. As a result of this high mounting of the sidelight lamp, the white all-round light lamp has to be elevated more than eight feet above the cockpit deck to be carried one-meter higher. This is accomplished with a very long pole. The pole is awkward to stow when not in use.

I have been considering an alternative arrangement for navigation lighting. The goal of this alternative is to eliminate the very tall pole for the white all-round light lamp. I propose to use more conventional lamps, as follows:

--a masthead light
--separate Port (red) and Starboard (green) sidelights
--a sternlight

I will now describe in some detail how I would configure the several lamps in this plan, and I invite readers to review my plan so that they might be able to comment on it to render an opinion on:

--whether it complies with RULE 23
--whether it is a workable plan for the lighting

Now for the details, which I give below.

The vertical baseline for the lighting plan is set by the location of the sidelights. The masthead light must be carried at least one-meter higher. I propose to mount the separate sidelights on the cabin superstructure in a fore-and-aft position about where the Revenge windshield begins and at a vertical height of a few inches above the level of the rub rail. I believe that the cabin sides at this point are very close to being parallel to the hull centerline, so there would be no need to shim the base of the sidelight lamps to align them for the proper horizontal projection of their light. Wiring will not be a problem, as the electrical conductors can be installed in the cabin and run under the headliner carpet in some manner or fashion.

The sternlight will be mounted on centerline and carried at a vertical height just tall enough to clear the cowling of the outboard engine. This will require adding a light pole to the aft deck with some sort of plug and socket design. I believe Boston Whaler has already used this on a number of their boats.

The sidelights lamps and the sternlight lamp I am proposing are not particularly unusual, and I do not anticipate that anyone would find much out of compliance with RULE 23 or unworkable about their installation.

The final light to be shown is the masthead light. I propose to mount this lamp in the location of the existing sidelight lamp, that is, on the center line and at the bow. To get the necessary one-meter vertical separate, it will probably be necessary to elevate the lamp above the bow railing by perhaps a foot. To accomplish this I will use a small clamp-on mast. Atop the mast will be a masthead light lamp of compact design. I have not chosen a particular lamp for this function yet, but I expect there is such a lamp, especially a lamp using LEDs for the light source.

Since the Boston Whaler 22-foot boat is less than 50-meters in length, only one masthead light is necessary. I do not see any provision in the rules that requires that the single masthead light must be carried aft of the sidelights. From what I find, the masthead light is defined as follows:

quote:

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Rule 21 - Definitions

"Masthead light" means a white light placed over the fore and aft centerline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel, except that on a vessel of less than 12 meters in length the masthead light shall be placed as nearly as practicable to the fore-and-aft centerline of the vessel.

---

The definition (quoted above) does not seem to require any restriction on the fore-and-aft position of the masthead light relative to the sidelights.

posted 05-17-2012 09:05 PM ET (US)            

quote:

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"Sternlight" means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from right aft on each side of the vessel.

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posted 05-17-2012 09:44 PM ET (US)            

quote:

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3. Horizontal positioning and spacing of lights

--When two masthead lights are prescribed for a power-driven vessel, the horizontal distance between them shall not be less than one half of the length of the vessel but need not be more than 100 meters. The forward light shall be placed not more than one quarter of the length of the vessel from the stem.

--On a power-driven vessel of 20 meters or more in length the sidelights shall not be placed in front of the forward masthead lights. They shall be placed at or near the side of the vessel.

--When the lights prescribed in Rule 27(b)(i) or Rule 28 are placed vertically between the forward masthead light(s) and the after masthead light(s) these all-round lights shall be placed at a horizontal distance of not less than 2 meters from the fore and aft centerline of the vessel in the athwartship direction.

--When only one masthead light is prescribed for a power-driven vessel, this light shall be exhibited forward of amidships; except that a vessel of less then 20 meters in length need not exhibit this light forward of amidships but shall exhibit it as far forward as is practicable.

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I have added italics to the portion of the rule that seems to apply to my boat, namely:

--if only one masthead light is to be carried
--the masthead light is to be carried foward of the sidelights

posted 05-18-2012 09:07 AM ET (US)            

I found a suitable rail mounting fitting for mounting a pole to the bow rail in the PERKO line of navigation lamps and accessories:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/ product/966/

For mounting atop the 3/4-inch pole there are many lamps available. Here is one choice:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/navigation_lights_under_20_meters/ product/176/

posted 05-18-2012 09:36 AM ET (US)            

quote:

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Rule 30 - Anchored Vessels and Vessels Aground

(a) A vessel at anchor shall exhibit where it can best be seen:

(i) in the fore part, an all-round white light or one ball;
(ii) at or near the stern and at a lower level than the light prescribed in subparagraph (i), an all-round white light.

(b) A vessel of less than 50 meters in length may exhibit an all-round white light where it can best be seen instead of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule.

---

An anchor light at the bow rail is "in the fore part" of the boat. In my plan this lamp will be the tallest lamp on the boat, so it must be the one "can be best seen" by virtue of its height. I could also make my sternlight lamp on the pole be a dual bulb lamp, and it could show as a second white all-round light at anchor.

posted 05-18-2012 09:41 AM ET (US)            

As a practical matter, I was discourage you from using the bow rail location for the masthead light at any rate. I believe it would offer adverse glare to the helmsman while operating the boat at night. I have the same combined sidelight fixture on the bow rail of my Revenge Walk-Through and even those red/green lights give off far too much glare. I have considered moving by side light to the cabin as you propose to do with your boat.

However, on my boat I have the benefit of a RADAR arch which is the perfect mount for a masthead light (and many other things like antennas). In your case I suggest you consider the possibility of installing a masthead light on one of the bows of your Mill Flying Top. This may not be as outlandish as you think. Because the Flying Top on a Revenge Walk-Through is stowed in the upright position, the masthead light could be used whether the Flying Top is deployed or not.

posted 05-18-2012 09:47 AM ET (US)            

To mount a lamp to the bow of the Flying Top canvas, I think the canvas would need to be modified. On my canvas the metal bows are completely enclosed in the canvas in a tunnel sewn in the canvas. Or at least that is my recollection. I will have to look more closely at the arrangement.

posted 05-18-2012 09:57 AM ET (US)            

Since you propose using a clamp-on rail mount anyway, a simple cut-out is all that is needed on the canvas. A canvas shop would hem the edges of the small cut-out to reinforce it. I would use the stern bow for the mount to minimize rain water intrusion.

posted 05-18-2012 02:42 PM ET (US)            

This picture shows the flip up light pole. Note the black plastic deflector on the pole. This deflector kept the light from shining on the foredeck, and worked quite well.
https://picasaweb.google.com/newtrevenge/ V20?authkey=Gv1sRgCL3tuOuog5qG6wE#5409666129689766738

If the rules will tolerate a slight off center location of the mast head light, you could mount a similar flip up pole to your windshield. I had no complaints with this setup.

I agree with Tom though, having added a radar arch to my current Revenge, I can't imagine doing without it.

posted 05-18-2012 05:40 PM ET (US)            

I don't see anything wrong with your approach or Rule 23. But it's getting complicated! The root cause of the problem appears to be the stowing of the 8' pole.

Your 1990 Revenge 22 with Whaler Drive has the aft "deck" which is of a different configuration than my 1990 Revenge 22 Walk-Though. My 8' pole is stowed to port, below the gunwale and supported by the fishing pole holders and the bottom end of the pole goes into a hole in the port side panel enabling me to slide it in and secure it very easily.

You have the aft deck which takes away roughly 18 inches of your cockpit. That will not allow you to stow your pole as I do.

Two ideas after looking at a few pictures of your boat:

1. Is there any way to slide the pole farther forward into that port side panel below the gunwale and possibly entending it into the "locker" where the walk-though sliding ladder stows? Might have to drill another 1-1/2" hole to allow this.

2. Thoughts on cutting the pole and adding eletrical connectors to put the wire back together or "hinging" it? Would only be a 4' problem to stow instead of 8'. Stow it in the rod holders or in brackets in the cabin on the overhead. Craft a way to add a dowl or such insert to make it 8' again. You "rarely" need the light - underway at night or anchored overnight. Rule 30 (g) can help here: "A vessel of less than 20 meters in length, when at anchor in a special anchorage area designated by the Secretary, shall not be required to exhibit the anchor lights and shapes required by this Rule." Many of these are noted on charts and sometimes designated with white buoys.

Every picture I see of your boat has the light pole. Time to stow it!

A fun springtime project.

posted 05-18-2012 08:41 PM ET (US)            

I have also thought of a solution involving adding a mast at the aft end of the cockpit. The mast would be tall enough to carry the masthead light one meter above the sidelights, and also strong enough to carry a radio antenna (in the form of a three-foot whip). The mast could also function as a hoist for flag at the stern. A mast like that would be a lot less expensive than a RADAR arch.

I have also thought of adding something like a RADAR arch at the stern, over the rear deck. This would be useful for holding up some cockpit awning canvas when at the dock.

There are several idea floating around in the discussion--all interesting ones.

posted 05-20-2012 02:24 PM ET (US)            

You stern light pole is 100 inches (8'-4") tall. To convert it to a two-piece pole I would use a tubing cutter to cut the aluminum pole in half. Using a large tubing cutter with sharp cutter wheels and the pole wrapped with tape, the cut could be made without marring the anodizing on the aluminum.

posted 05-23-2012 09:15 PM ET (US)            

When changing to separate sidelights there is a corollary change needed: the masthead light must be on center line, or, if using a white all-round light, that must be on center line.

As a result, I have to get the masthead light on centerline. That was part of the solution with using the masthead light at the bow railing. However, I think Tom is right in his advice; there would probably be too much light spill from a masthead light in the helmsman's line of vision forward. To put the masthead light there is not a workable arrangement, even if it is compliant with Rule 23.

When I had the boat home last weekend I looked at the Mills Flying Top canvas. I did not see a simple solution for mounting a lamp to the aft bow of the canvas frame. The Flying Top has a skirting at its aft edge that hangs down to cover the zipper seam for the drop cloth. It would take quite a bit of cutting and sewing to make the frame appear in the center of the aft bow in order to mount a lamp.

posted 05-24-2012 12:22 PM ET (US)            

If you do seriously consider an arch, take a look at the "tower in a box" from Atlantic Towers. I installed one last year. Installation would have been simpler at the stern instead of on the cabin super structure, but we are talking a couple hours different, not a whole lot in the long run. Cost is the same regardless of how and where you mount the arch. The mast head light was part of the package.

posted 05-25-2012 09:59 AM ET (US)            

In fact, it occurred to me that the rain flap that covers the zipper could be preserved if the pole the masthead light attached to had a U-shape to it so it descended from the bow before rising to above the Flying Top.

This would also serve as a drip loop for the pole so the light would not bring in rain through the cutout.

It also occurred to me the wire could be routed through the end fitting on the bow near the helm. This would simplify the drilling of the hole because the fitting could be removed from the canvas system and drilled out on a drill press or with a hand held drill, the edges of the holes could easily be chamfered and smoothed.

With that point of entry for the wiring into the bow, the wiring could be fitted with a simple plug and a corresponding socket could be mounted near the helm where it is protected from the weather and this would allow the Flying Top to be removed at any time without cutting any wire. It also shortened the run of wire for the masthead light considerably.

posted 05-25-2012 10:08 AM ET (US)            

I boat at night more than almost anybody else around here and having that masthead light fixed on the RADAR arch is hugely convenient for me.

I also got rid of the old OE Perko #1197 masthead light because it was so notoriously unreliable. I was constantly disassembling it to clean the contacts for the bulbs so it would light.

I swapped it out for a very inexpensive SeaDog LED all around white light:

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/1333-led-fixed-mount-all-around-light

Over the last few years, it has proven to be 100 percent reliable and I recommend this light to other Whaler owners. I think I paid about $25 for it at Fisheries Supply here in Seattle.

posted 06-03-2012 12:36 PM ET (US)            

Another alternative for the navigation lighting plan is provided by a stout mast mounted on the keel centerline at the aft deck. I have thought of fabricating an aluminum mast of about 2-inch diameter and with 0.125-inch wall. The mast section could be circular, and the mast could be made from standard 6061-T6 aluminum alloy. The mast would be mounted with a slight rake toward the stern.

The mast would be supported by passing through the aft deck and extending downward to the cockpit deck level, where the mast would fit into a receiver fitting secured to the deck. The bottom six inches of the mast would be slotted with a 0.4-inch wide slot. The slot would allow cables that run up through the inside of the mast to exit before the rest of the mast fit into the receiver fitting.

At the deck level the mast would pass through a fitting made by using a short section of aluminum tubing of 0.25-inch wall whose ID was just a few thousandths of an inch larger than the mast. You might have to turn this fitting on a lathe to get just the right ID. Stock tubes may fit too snugly. This fitting tube would, in turn, be welded to a plate that secured to the deck. The fitting tube passes through the plate at the mast rake angle.

Now the mast can be installed by passing it through the deck fitting and locating the end of the mast into the deck level receiver.

The mast height is chosen to be just 1-meter taller than the sidelights, which will be moved to the cabin superstructure side walls.

An all-round white lamp is mounted atop the mast.

At the top of the mast there is a flange fastened to the mast (It could be welded or fastened mechanically with threaded fasteners.) The flange serves several purposes. The flange projects forward and creates a shade or shutter to prevent the all-round lamp from illuminating the cockpit area below. The flange projects aft and provides an attachment point for a flagstaff halyard.

A few inches below the top of the mast, a second flange is attached. This flange projects sidewards and aft at an appropriate angle and extends several inches away from the mast, perhaps 8-inches, on each side. On one side a compact VHF Marine Band antenna such as an end-fed halfwave whip is installed. On the other side a GPS receiver-antena is installed.

The mast is kept in operating position when the boat is operational. For storage or hauling on the highway on a trailer, the mast can be remove and laid down in the cockpit. If the connectors are properly chosen, the disconnection of the lighting conductors, the radio antenna transmission line, and the GPS receiver cable could be made to be simple to disconnect when necessary to remove the mast.

The advantage to the mast compared to a RADAR arch would be:

--not fixed in position so could be removed when necessary, lowering the vertical clearance;

--less expensive than a RADAR arch;

--could be fabricated without complex tube bending or weldments

posted 06-05-2012 02:04 PM ET (US)            

23 c/d: A power-driven vessel of less than 12 meters in length may in lieu of the lights prescribed in paragraph (a) of this Rule exhibit an all-round white light and sidelights.

Based on the above, can't you dispense with the stern light? On my '95 Outrage 21, I have separate side lights near the bow and an all-round light on the T-top at the center line, which I believe meet the legal obligations.

posted 06-08-2012 11:52 AM ET (US)            

Cut it half, add connectors to the wiring, and stow it. As you mentioned before, you rarely use it. The amount of work you might put into this project is already more than the amount of time you'd "use" the project.