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Author | Topic: Power Disconnect for Trolling Motor |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() I want to mount the battery for the rear-mounted trolling motor in the center console for weight distributing reasons, but I need a way to disconnect the the power at the transom to the trolling motor so I can remove it from the boat when not in use. rich |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() Search for MKR-18 plug and receptacle kit. It's a watertight quick disconnect kit available everywhere--Walmart, West Marine--for around $25. Works well. |
jimh |
![]() ![]() ![]() The MKR-18 connector set appears to be made by MinnKota and sold at Walmart. |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() OK, I see that MKR-18 plug and receptacle will work, but now new questions arise. How, and where could I mount the receptacle in a foam filled Whaler. Mounting it in the center console would require at least a 6-7 ft. electrical cord laying on the deck of the boat when I would use the trolling motor. rich |
dfmcintyre |
![]() ![]() ![]() Rich--what about running the cables in the tunnel to the stern. At the stern fabricate (I know from previous posts your good with fiberglass...) a box for the disconnect to live in.< Second thought (you can tell it's cold and snowing in Michigan right now): If handy enough with a drill, what about drilling horizontally in the small bilge area, 2 to 3-inch, a second hole down in the splashwell to hit the first hole, and then a third hole again horizontally about half-way-up the outside of the splashwell into the vertical hole? Then mount the receptacle flush on the vertical portion of the splashwell, say one-foot above the deck. You'd have to do a small repair in the splashwell and waterproof the other two remaining holes. |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() How about an L-shaped bracket made of 2-inch or 3-inch flat bar aluminum with a hole to accomodate the receptacle? That bracket could be fastened somewhere near the main outboard transom bracket, with the battery cables following those of the main harness. |
jimh |
![]() ![]() ![]() The plug connector is designed for a cable-end mounting. The mating connector is not. It is designed for mounting on a bulkhead. Is there a cable-end mating connector available? |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() Thats the thing, jimh, its not possible to mount the mating connector to any bulhead on a 15 footer for obvious reasons. I know some folks have mounted electric trolling motors on the bow of small Whalers. Do they also have the battery mounted in the bow? The mating connector mounted on an exposed aluminum L bracket won't look right. |
jimh |
![]() ![]() ![]() Perhaps an alternative connector, one designed for both genders to be installed on cable ends would be better. For example, the Neutrix SpeakOn connectors, particularly the STX series. There are both male and female genders for cable-end connectors. Although this is designed as a loudspeaker connector, it is rated for 40-Amperes continuous current. See http://www.neutrik.com/en/speakon/stx-series/nlt4mx-bag Note that these are four-pole connectors. If you just need a two-pole connector, you could double-up the contacts and have an 80-Ampere connector. The SpeakOn connectors are very widely used, are not hard to get, and are not very expensive. They are easy to assemble. |
dfmcintyre |
![]() ![]() ![]() Rich - Ah, I didn't realize the vessel is a 15'. Might not have enough room to do it. Anything shy of somehow a flush mount back there is going to look pretty aftermarket. Jim's suggestion might be the easiest; only concern is keeping it up and out of the bilge or off the floor when not in use. Might use some hook / loop tabs to keep it mounted on the outside of the splashwell when not in use. Don |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() I think the best approach to this problem is to mount the battery in the stern on the port side, same as I did in my 13 footer. I don't even know that I have a weight distribution problem as I have yet to splash this boat. The 2 stroke Yamaha C60 is not a heavy engine, and the console is mounted forward of the original one and is somewhat heavy, compared to the original Striper side console. rich |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() If you don't want/can't install a flush mount receptacle, then they also make a free standing connector http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/MKR-20-TROLLING-MOTOR-QUICK-CONNECT-PLUG/ |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() That Quick connect plug would work, but the plug would always be in the weather. How could it be waterproofed rich |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() Can you post some pics of the transom area of your boat? |
Binkster |
![]() ![]() ![]() I will in a week or so. rich |
jimh |
![]() ![]() ![]() The SpeakOn connector I suggested (above) is rated as being waterproof when mated. I don't think there is any electrical connector that is rated as waterproof when it is not mated. |
saumon |
![]() ![]() ![]() It looks like MARINCO make an equivalent product to the Minn Kota MKR-18: http://www.marinco.com/en/12vcps2 But, even mopre interresting, they also make a rubber weatherproof boot in which you could put the female receptacle (you simply doesn't put the front panel): |
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