posted 09-03-2013 10:19 AM ET (US)        

--the three-day weekend at the end gives an extra day to travel home or to unwind at home before going back to work;

--the late Summer visit reduces the black fly nuisance to a minimum. Based on an account we received from an extremely experienced Isle Royale visitor--they've been living on the island in the summer for decades--the black flies are so bad in early Summer you have to wear meshed hoods when outdoors to keep them at bay;

--the cooler evening temperatures make for great sleeping; and,

--the number of other boats visiting at this time seems to be low. Until the Friday prior to Labor Day, we did not encounter another private boat cruising the park. At every campsite and dock, we had the docks to ourselves.

--a later Summer visit makes the chance of being able to swim much better. We enjoyed two or three swims in Lake Superior, with a water temperature in the mid-60's. I don't think the water would be quite that warm in the early days of Summer;

--a later Summer visit gives everyone a chance to work out the kinks in their boats. In our case, the IRNP cruise was the fourth long cruise of the season for us. In the three prior cruises we had already overcome the usual problems of things we forgot to bring or problems on the boat we forgot to fix.

We had a fleet of five boats, and all boats were able to circumnavigate the island. Four of us came across from Copper Harbor. On the inbound trip to the island, we had to delay one day due to wind and waves. A 15 to 20-knot northwesterly blew all night and produced waves of 4 to 7-feet right on our nose. On Sunday morning we ventured into those seas for about 2-miles before deciding our best option would be to wait for better conditions. The next morning, Monday, we found the seas much lower, initially near shore about 3-feet but then reducing as we got away from shoreline effects to 2-feet or less, and made the 55-mile passage to Chippewa Harbor without any especially great discomfort from the sea state. We did encounter about 25-miles of fog bank in the middle of the run. Between RADAR and AIS, we felt comfortable staying on plane all the time in the fog, but we could not quite run at our optimum fuel efficiency speed at any time. (One of great advantages of the Boston Whaler 22-foot hull and Whaler Drive is the ability to run on plane at lower speeds with decent fuel efficiency. We could run at 20-MPH and still keep our MPG in a good range.)

Once on the island, the weather was quite pleasant. It was warm during the days and no rain fell until after 5 p.m., by which time we were always at our destination. Most of the rain fell during the night, when we were snug in our cabins. We did have one morning fog which at times reduced visibility to only one-hundred feet. The practice at Isle Royale is for all vessels underway in fog conditions to announce themselves, their position, and their course in frequent SECURITY calls on Channel 16. By this method we knew of opposing traffic, in addition to aids like RADAR and AIS, as well as sounding of fog signals.

Our day trips from campsite to campsite were made in mostly calm conditions. A long run on the north side, from McCargoe Cove to Washington Harbor, was made in seas of 3 to 4 feet, but we were going downwind and not particularly encumbered.

Sightings of wild animals were plentiful. One boat crew even had the very special delight of seeing a wolf.

We prepared all our own meals on our grills. The food was delicious, probably enhanced by the setting and fine weather. We had steaks, kabobs, and pork chops, along with grilled vegetables, and rice. We ate very well. No boats ran out of alcoholic beverages during the cruise, thanks to good planning and provisioning.

The return passage to Copper Harbor departed from Washington Harbor, making for a longer run, about 79-miles. We faced the remnants of the prior day's big seas in the form of a three-foot swell with a long wavelength. An early departure, about 7:30 a.m. kept the wind waves down to mostly insignificant height.

Of the five boats, three were twin-engine powered and two were single-engine. There were no engine problems. One boat's outboard engine skeg did touch the bottom very gently, but no real damage occurred.

Fuel on the island was being sold at $5.61-per-gallon. At one time that would have seemed an outrageous cost, but, having become inured to high fuel prices in remote areas, it was not a concern. We bought 38.7-gallons while on the island. When back at Copper Harbor we had only 18.6-gallons remaining. That is about the least margin I would allow for a 79-mile crossing in variable sea conditions.

Among us only one boat angled for fish, producing one beautiful catch whose species is still a subject of some debate. Was it a Splake or a Coaster?

The boats involved were all cabin boats:

--30 DEFIANCE with twin E-TEC 300-HP

--23 WALKAROUND with Whaler Drive; twin Yamaha 200-HP two-stroke-cycle

--23 WALKAROUND with notched transom; twin Yamaha F150

--22 REVENGE with Whaler Drive; E-TEC 225

--23 PURSUIT Offshore Cuddy with Yamaha F250

For those counting, that is five Yamaha engines and three E-TEC engines. They all started beautifully every morning and ran flawlessly all day.

My total trip was 228.6-miles, accomplished in 16-hours and 3-minutes of running, making for an average speed of 14.2-MPH. We consumed 83.4-gallons of fuel, for an average of 2.74-MPG

A visit to Isle Royale National Park in your own boat is quite an undertaking, and at times during the preparations both Chris and I wondered if we would find this second cruise as rewarding as the first, given all the work that has to be done to get there. The highway drive itself, some 650-miles, is a major undertaking. Our concerns were unfounded: we enjoyed this visit to Isle Royale as much as our first one. It is a delightful and remote cruising ground.

posted 09-04-2013 04:26 PM ET (US)            

In the following sea Jim mentioned above
The whalerdrive wanted to run a little faster in the rough water then the notched transom, but that might be a combination of more horse power and more experience driving the boat. After all it was Dave's first time really driving the 23 walkaround.

I was running about 26mph (I had a little better ride at about 28-29mph) to stay fairly close to Jim when Dave dropped off plane to adjust something. If he had been in his 21 Walkaround I would have dropped off and waited for him. But I knew his 23 walkaround had a lot more speed he had not been using so I left him. I was pleasantly surprised to see him back on my stern on a very short period of time. We all love Dave but he is not known for his speed, so it was pretty impressive that he caught up to me in those seas and did not beat himself to death doing it.

It will be fun to put your boat next to Dave's. With 300 horse on the back of both boats it might be a better comparison, then the 400hp to 300hp comparison we had.

posted 09-07-2013 08:25 AM ET (US)            

I'm also interested in Craig's comparison of engines. I believe he used to have twin EFI 2-stroke Mercs on the back of that Defiance.

First, what made you repower, and second, do you have some preliminary data on fuel savings, etc....perhaps you can start a separate thread.

Looks like you guys had MUCH better weather than last time we were up there - and got to see more of the sights around the Island.

posted 09-07-2013 09:42 AM ET (US)            

Another night, in McCargoe Cove, the moon had not risen yet, and there were low, dark clouds. That night was so dark that you literally could not see your hand in front of your face.

We also had two days of lengthy navigation in fog, first on the inbound trip to Isle Royale from Copper Harbor, and then a day later while moving from Chippewa Harbor to Tobin Harbor. The fog was produced when warm and moist air from the land to the South was carried out onto the much colder lake. The fog bank on the inbound trip dissipated several miles offshore. On the next day, we had an East wind, and the fog blew in from the lake all day. It really did not burn off until after 4 p.m.

The only rain during daylight came late in the afternoon at McCargoe Cove. A light rain started about 5 p.m., disrupting our dock cocktail and appetizer hour. The rain only lasted about an hour, and we were able to get back outside for the grilling of dinner.

We also had the great fortune to visit the Bangsund cottage while the Petersen's were there. As a result, we got a wonderful guided tour of the moose exhibits from Mrs. Peterson, and we also had a chance to talk to Professor Peterson about the wolf population crisis.

While we were at Tobin Harbor, Craig arranged a tour of the RANGER III for us. The master of the ship gave us a wonderful tour, from the bridge down to the engine room. It was very interesting for me, a closet boat-nerd.

We did a lot of hiking on this trip. I am proud to say I made it up to Lookout Louise--and back. I did not go with the group to Passage Island. They reported that the trail from the boat house to the lighthouse was very over-grown, and it was difficult hiking. Apparently not too many people have visited Passage Island or perhaps trail grooming has suffered due to cut-backs with the Park Service.

posted 09-11-2013 01:41 PM ET (US)            

--no poison ivy

--no bears, racoons, porcupines, deer, or skunks

--only a few wolves, and you are very unlikely to see one (even though the crew of HOLLY MARIE did see a wolf)

--plenty of moose, but they typically do not represent any sort of problem or threat to a hiker and are interesting to watch

--no poisonous snakes; I think there are only two snake species on the island, the garter snake, and the less commonly seen northern red-bellied snake

As a result of the above, Isle Royale is a good place for the novice hiker. The trails are rugged and require a lot of care in foot placement, but you are not going to come face-to-face with a bear or wander into a patch of poison ivy.

There were four good hikes:

--Chippewa Harbor dock to Lake Mason

--Tobin Harbor dock to Monument Rock and Lookout Louise

--Passage Island boathouse and anchorage to Passage Island Lighthouse

--McCargoe Cove dock to Minong Mine

The hike to Lookout Louise is a 1.1 mile uphill climb from lake level (601-feet ASL) to 880-feet ASL, a climb of about 280 feet elevation in a distance of about 5,800 feet, or a grade of about five-percent. That was enough to get my 63-year-old out-of-shape legs tired.

posted 09-11-2013 09:51 PM ET (US)            

Let's get right to the pictures.

Most of the fleet assembled at Copper Harbor, Michigan before crossing over to Isle Royale.

Defiance, a 30-foot Boston Whaler Defiance - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ Defiance_zps7afc7750.jpg

Manic Moment, a Boston Whaler 23 Walkaround with notched transom - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ ManicMoment_zpsa77b80de.jpg

Continuous Wave, a Boston Whaler 22 Revenge Walkthrough with Whalerdrive - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ ContinuousWave_zpsb6c8c4a4.jpg

And Outlier (my boat), a Pursuit 235 Offshore - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ Outlier_zps5788a65d.jpg

As Jim mentioned above, we were held up one day in Copper Harbor due to wind and waves. Jim failed to mention, however, that within about an hour after we aborted our crossing a big thunderstorm ripped through the area. It was a good thing that we turned back.

Our first stop at Isle Royale was Chippewa Harbor, where Holly Marie, a Boston Whaler 23 Walkaround with Whalerdrive, met up with us while Chris and Debbie took a swim in the brisk waters of Lake Superior - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ HollyMarieArrives_zps80e939ae.jpg

In the meantime, Continuous Wave attempted to send some type of signal to passing boats - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ ContinuousWaveHaningOuttheLaundry_zpsd7d81514.jpg
[Yes, the signal reads: Warning, Shampoo in Use.--jimh]

The next morning we awoke to thick fog. We cleared the dock just before 10:00 a.m. for the arrival of the Voyageur II, a boat that ferries hikers around the island.

Defiance and Manic Moment in the fog - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ DefianceandManicMoment_zps9788e93e.jpg

Holly Marie in the fog - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ HollyMarieintheFog_zps583a24b5.jpg

We decided to follow Voyageur II out the narrow entrance of Chippewa Harbor, with Continuous Wave leading the way for our group - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ ContinuousWaveandVoyaguerII_zps206fa26c.jpg

Next stop, the Edisen Fishery - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ EdisenFishery_zps82302964.jpg

Jim really liked the old Evinrudes on display at the fishery - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ JimH-EdisenFishery_zpsff07703b.jpg

After meeting the Petersens and checking out the moose relics at Bangsund Cabin, we proceeded to Rock Harbor for fuel and ice, and then on to Tobin Harbor, where we docked for the night. Tobin Harbor - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ TheFleetatTobinHarbor_zpsf58eeaa6.jpg

While we were at Rock Harbor, Craig had met the Master of the Ranger III and arranged a tour for our group. We were treated to a private, hands-on tour of the entire ship including the bridge - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ RangerIIIBridge_zps0009b9c4.jpg

The next morning we hiked to Lookout Louise for some magnificent views of the island and Lake Superior. http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ LookoutLouise2_zps222de3d3.jpg

We returned to Tobin Harbor for lunch, and then proceeded to Passage Island, where we hiked to the lighthouse. When leaving Passage Island, I was the one that momentarily touched bottom with my boat. I wasn't paying attention, and I strayed off the path that we had taken into the harbor. I ended up with a small gouge on my skeg, but no damage to my prop.

From Passage Island we proceed to Belle Isle. This sequence of shots shows Holly Marie, Manic Moment, and Defiance falling into line behind Outlier on that run.
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ FallingIn1_zps5609e488.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ FallingIn2_zps416fbbac.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ FallingIn3_zps3f075c18.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ FallingIn4_zps5a324c4e.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ FallingIn5_zps7cedbdcc.jpg
My wife, Debbie, gets credit for those photos.

The next day it was on to McCargoe Cove - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ McCargoeCove_zps09863059.jpg
No moose sightings this year.

We spent the last night at Windigo, with four of the boats at the small boat dock and Defiance tied up to the main pier. I call this photo "The Lonely Evinrude" - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ TheLonelyEvinrude_zps6e51e9e9.jpg

Here, John shows us his homemade block ice that was still solid after nine days in the cooler - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ SuperIce_zpsfa6ea48c.jpg

As always, it's the people that make or break the trip. Our little group gets along very well, and it was a pleasure spending another week with them.

Craig (ECTR) and Karen of Defiance - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ CraigandKaren_zpse19de157.jpg
John (6992WHALER), Holly, and Emmarie of Holly Marie - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ JohnHollyandEmmarie_zps91370935.jpg
Me (K Albus) and my wife Debbie - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ KevinandDebbie_zps5eeeca7d.jpg
David (Hoosier) and Kathy of Manic Moment - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ DavidandKathy_zps86c1b073.jpg
And Jim (jimh) and Chris of Continuous Wave - http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t329/kalbus/Isle%20Royale%202013/ JimandChris_zps308ec961.jpg

posted 09-12-2013 10:16 PM ET (US)            

I love the three boats with the black bottom paint all running together.

posted 10-31-2013 08:17 PM ET (US)            

As were were heading back to Copper Harbor from Washington Harbor on Isle Royale, a run of about 80 miles across Lake Superior, we were not maintaining a fleet formation. The four boats making the crossing all left at staggered times, and ran at various speeds, each adjusting their speed for the waves as best suited them. This approach seemed reasonable, as in the rather rough conditions it was clear there could not be one speed that would fit all the boats. Also, we were all aiming for the launch ramp at Copper Harbor to haul out, so it made no sense for all four boats to arrive simultaneously to a one-lane ramp. We were a few miles apart, in radio range, and at times in visual range.

When our boat was about two hours into the trip, and we were quite by ourselves in the middle of the crossing, I was at the helm, running through the head seas on the Port bow at a speed of about 17 to 18-MPH. When I saw a larger wave coming, I often turned slightly down sea to take the wave at a less head-on angle. It was during one of these situations that we had a very close call.

I had just bore off slightly to starboard to climb a large wave face when I saw it: a very large piece of floating debris. It was the trunk of a large tree, floating with just a bit of the bark above the surface. Upon seeing it, I was frozen for an instant. Then I realized we were going to miss it--not by much, perhaps two feet--but we were going to miss it. I held course and in an instant watched the big tree pass harmlessly to Starboard, disappearing from my view as the boat flew past it.

I could not help but think: what are the chances? Thousands of square miles of Lake Superior, and I make a minor course change that almost brings me into a collision with a big floating object in the waves. It was a scary moment.

I turned around to look for the tree trunk astern, but it was already gone. I thought about putting out a radio alert, but it seemed pointless. At that time there was only one boat behind me in the fleet, and the chances he would also cross paths with the floating tree trunk had to be infinitesimal.

posted 11-01-2013 08:41 AM ET (US)            

I cannot print his second thought.

posted 11-03-2013 10:37 AM ET (US)            

When we went to Isle Royale National Park in 2010, we stopped to take on some fuel for the boat while on the highway in the town of Laurium. I was impressed with Laurium, if not for its evocative name but for the fine homes preserved there. For me, the name Laurium seemed to suggest wealth or gold. It is actually the name of an ancient mining region in Greece. Well, I knew it was an old-sounding name. The main road through Laurium takes you past several blocks of well-preserved period homes. Laurium is the close neighbor of Calumet.

Calumet is an interesting name. I recently learned it is a North American Indian word for a peace pipe. That the town of Calumet would be associated with a peace pipe seems quite ironic.

In the strange ways in which one acquires information, sometime early in 2013, in the depths of the winter, and long before embarking on this trip to Isle Royale, I came across a mention of a book about a infamous incident in Calumet, written by a Michigan author. Attorney, writer, and professor Steve Lehto has written a detailed and revealing account of the Calumet Italian Hall disaster.

http://www.amazon.com/Deaths-Door-Behind-Michigans-Largest/dp/ 1879094770/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_3

I borrowed a copy of the book from our local library, and set out to read a bit of Michigan history. I thought it would be good to learn more about the Keweenaw Peninsula and what went on there in the heyday of copper mining in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Mr. Lehto has written a stunningly detailed account of the events surrounding the tragedy of the Christmas Eve disaster that killed almost 100 men, women, and children.

I am afraid that Mr. Lehto's account is so well done, is so detailed, and so accurately describes the conditions of c.1913 life in Calumet, that I could not finish it. The one-third of it I read was very depressing--I had to stop. It was agonizing reading, page after page, laying out the exploitation of workers, the collusion of the mining company with the newspapers, the law enforcement, and the government, and the shameful behavior of person after person in any sort of position of authority to fail to help people who needed some help.

Maybe it was because I was reading it in winter, and I was prone to depression from lack of sunshine and getting outdoors. I just had to put down the book, before my faith in my fellow man was completely destroyed by this historical account.

As I was reading the first few pages, I had some thoughts of taking a detour on our way to Copper Harbor to visit Calumet, to see the memorial to those who died at the Italian Hall. By the time I had to stop reading, I was of a different mind. I wanted to be sure not to stop, to not take in any more of the tragedy, to not let it into my conscious.

posted 11-11-2013 02:48 PM ET (US)            

http://www.lansingstatejournal.com/article/20131106/NEWS01/311060048/

posted 01-14-2014 02:55 PM ET (US)            

http://www.isleroyalewolf.org/

to be of interest. Many of us had the pleasure (once or twice) of meeting Rolf and his equally scholarly wife, Candy, at their summer encampment at the former Bangsund fishing cottage on the island.

The website has a section or blog for the just-starting 2014 Winter Study at

posted 02-07-2014 10:45 AM ET (US)            

http://continuouswave.com/sail-logs/irnp2013/

posted 02-09-2014 09:40 AM ET (US)            

Nice way to forget about the winter.

posted 03-01-2014 12:33 PM ET (US)            

Miami to Bimini = 53 miles

England to Ireland via the Irish Sea = 62-miles

posted 11-06-2014 11:07 PM ET (US)            

Copper Harbor to Sunday Harbor (Slate Islands) = 90-miles.