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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Loading boat on trailer
|Author||Topic: Loading boat on trailer|
posted 06-27-2002 08:20 AM ET (US)
I am trying to load my 21ft Conquest on trailer by winch only.Marina says no power load.How far into water should bunks go?Some say keep bunks above water line when winching boat on trailer.This seams to put a excess load on trailer and electric winch.With bunks in water boat does not come up on trailer centered.Power loading boat, bunks halfway in water works well only winch last 2or3 feet onto trailer.The trailer is a Loadrite with two sets of double 12in Stoltz rollers and bunks for support.
posted 06-27-2002 09:43 AM ET (US)
If you can't power load, I think you will need to submerge the bunks most of the way...there will be too much friction otherwise. You could try "glide-stiks" which are teflon? strips that mount on the bunks to reduce friction.
Personally, I just submerge the trailer almost all the way. I had a few problems with centering, but then I added horizontal side bunks to the trailer and it lines up perfectly every time...even in a stiff breeze.
posted 06-27-2002 10:22 AM ET (US)
Four keel rollers should be ok,but what is the spacing between the rollers,list from the stern first to winch stand.If the keel roller are evenly spaced,your problem is most likely the bunks are too high,and are supporting too much of the hull's weight,and need to be lower.The bunks should just be there to keep the hull from rocking sideways, while the hulls weigh is being supported by the keel rollers.
posted 06-27-2002 12:23 PM ET (US)
My rollers are grouped two on rear most crossmember and two on front crossmember.There is no other crossmember on trailer.If I adjust bunks down more hull may contact fenders.Also I have a concerne I may damage hull due to when boat is loaded on trailer sometimes the bunks are in contact with the raised planing strakes and not flush to flat hull surface.The trailer is a 4500lbs trailer made for Whaler hull.I also have side guides as mentioned in prior post by Ventura 16 they are a hard plastic roller I have adjusted about three inches away from hull sides should I move them closer to hull sides?
posted 06-27-2002 03:43 PM ET (US)
I kind of had the same problem on my much smaller boat than yours George. I doubled up the rear keel roller and that seemed to help. You may need to add a cross member , and then add Stolz keel rollers.
How’s that Corgi?
posted 06-27-2002 04:49 PM ET (US)
You need to add more keel and raise all the keel rollers up.This will obtain the clearance you need over the fender and also reduce the load on the bunks.
Not a well designed,or adjusted trailer for your hull.I would go back to dealer and and find the setup person for the trailer.Then complain loudly until the problem is corrected.
He sold it now let him service it,until it's corrected so you can load your boat properly.
posted 06-27-2002 11:04 PM ET (US)
I don't believe in keel rollers and use a full bunk trailer for my Montauk.
I back the trailer in all the way to wet the bunks and then pull it out to where the top of the fenders are out of water. Then I can idle the boat onto the trailer with a short burst to hit the bow stop and then winch a few inches. Guess this would be called powering on in some places.
There is a product called Liquid Rollers that works great for winch ons. You just spray it on the bunks, but if you do don't release your winch strap untill the boat is in the water or you will launch on the ramp.
posted 06-28-2002 12:22 AM ET (US)
I use the same method as Dick with my EZ loader bunk trailer. Only I haven't had the guts to power up with the new Montauk.
I'll have half the bunks submerged, which correalates to about 3/4 or so of the tire submerged. Using the bow rope to pull the boat as far up the bunks as possible, and winch the last couple of feet.
My boat is easy enough for one person, but with 21' Conquest I'd sure like to have someone on a stern line.
posted 06-28-2002 12:49 AM ET (US)
I have been "power loading" for 30 years. I learned it in Alaska where that was the only way to put a jet boat on a trailer in the rivers. Some places we didn't even have real ramps. The first few times can realy be a bit hard on the nerves, but just take it easy untill it feels right.
posted 07-02-2002 11:26 PM ET (US)
The side guide should be maybe an inch from
the side That way it can't get more than
an inch off center.
I use the bow rope till the last 2-3 feet,
posted 07-03-2002 08:21 AM ET (US)
I got brave the other day and tried to adjust bunks and rollers.I was very surprise to be able to loosen up and let one bunk at a time drop away from hull the hull did not shift to the lower side bunk it sat right on rollers.I was able to move bunks two to three inches left or right so bunks now lay on flat hull surface not on or near strakes.I used a floor jack to set bunks just up to hull surface.I will take Triblets suggestion and move side supports in closer to hull.Sure hope it goes back on trailer the way it now sets on bunks and rollers.I will try it this weekend.Also I find the Stoltz rollers seems to hold up much better than black rollers which starting to crush as soon as the boat was loaded on them Stoltz rollers show no sign of crushing.
posted 07-03-2002 08:29 AM ET (US)
Spraying the bunks with silicon lubricant really helps (especially on a bunk-only drive-on trailer). Do this when bunk carpet is completely dry,,, you will be amazed at the friction reduction! Now, boat will "fly" off trailer on launch so don't unhitch until trailer is in the water or you may launch on concrete.... oooouuuuccchhhh... Happy Whalin'... Clark... Spruce Creek Navy
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