170 Montauk bow light - Moderated Discussion Areas

  ContinuousWave
  Whaler
  Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
  170 Montauk bow light

search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   170 Montauk bow light

4Runner posted 07-16-2003 07:41 PM ET (US)
Just a heads up for 170 Montauk owners to check their bow light for proper sealing.
I kept finding salt crystals behind the backing plate under the bow light assembly even though I'm pretty thorough in cleaning and drying the boat after use.
I took the bow light/anchor rode chock assembly off and was surprised to find that there was no sealant of any kind under the assembly. Water was getting into my hull through the bolt holes and the hole for the electrical wires. The light assembly was just sitting on the plastic spacer piece (starboard or PVC?) which in turn sits on the gel coat. The aluminum backing plate has already started to corrode and the paint is peeling from the trapped salt water. There was some silicone sealant on the leading edge between the backing plate and the hull but nothing on the aft side.
I have spoken to my dealer and they plan to seal it correctly under warranty. I just have to wait two weeks since the service department is booked.
Glenn
Beaner posted 07-16-2003 09:09 PM ET (US)

I have noticed condensation in my bow light (2003 Montauk) after washing the boat. I have been wondering if it is normal for moisture to get inside the light? The boat is currently at the dealer for the 20 hour service so I will give them a call and have them check the seal. Thanks for the heads up!
Jimm posted 07-16-2003 09:17 PM ET (US)
I also have condensation. I'll pull the whole plate tomorrow and look around. Thanks.
Jimm posted 07-17-2003 09:11 PM ET (US)
Well, I tried to get the assembly off but no way; no how. I take it that the two #4 Philips screws just underneath the rub rail screw into the 2 little chocks on either side of the bow light. Can anyone confirm this. The screws turn and the chocks turn and there's no way I'm getting them off without taking the plating off them. I think they are stripped as there are quite a few metal shaving pieces under the light base. Any hints?
4Runner posted 07-17-2003 09:35 PM ET (US)
The two screws under the rub rail holds it on. However BW uses a lot of Lok-Tite (red) at assembly. I used a phillips bit with a ratchet to take it off. You can use a little heat (heat gun for removing paint or possibly a very hot hair drier - no torch because it will dis-color the chrome) to help break the lok-tite if needed. The chocks have a small square section like a carrige bolt that engages the base to keep it from turning.
I plan to use the blue lok-tite at reassembly so it is more easily removable the next time.
4Runner posted 07-17-2003 09:41 PM ET (US)
Jimm
I also used a large screw driver under the base as a wedge to keep the square section engaged with the base. No force is applied with the screw driver. It just needs to keep it snug. The square section is tapered so if it is not kept tight with the base it will turn.
Jimm posted 07-17-2003 09:52 PM ET (US)
Now I know where all the brass shavings are from - the chocks, with the square base, are turning. The pieces were there before I started. May I ask what your hull # is or date of manufacture? Thanks
4Runner posted 07-17-2003 10:09 PM ET (US)
Mfr date 24 June '02

Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.

Author	Topic: 170 Montauk bow light
4Runner	posted 07-16-2003 07:41 PM ET (US) Just a heads up for 170 Montauk owners to check their bow light for proper sealing. I kept finding salt crystals behind the backing plate under the bow light assembly even though I'm pretty thorough in cleaning and drying the boat after use. I took the bow light/anchor rode chock assembly off and was surprised to find that there was no sealant of any kind under the assembly. Water was getting into my hull through the bolt holes and the hole for the electrical wires. The light assembly was just sitting on the plastic spacer piece (starboard or PVC?) which in turn sits on the gel coat. The aluminum backing plate has already started to corrode and the paint is peeling from the trapped salt water. There was some silicone sealant on the leading edge between the backing plate and the hull but nothing on the aft side. I have spoken to my dealer and they plan to seal it correctly under warranty. I just have to wait two weeks since the service department is booked. Glenn
Beaner	posted 07-16-2003 09:09 PM ET (US) I have noticed condensation in my bow light (2003 Montauk) after washing the boat. I have been wondering if it is normal for moisture to get inside the light? The boat is currently at the dealer for the 20 hour service so I will give them a call and have them check the seal. Thanks for the heads up!
Jimm	posted 07-16-2003 09:17 PM ET (US) I also have condensation. I'll pull the whole plate tomorrow and look around. Thanks.
Jimm	posted 07-17-2003 09:11 PM ET (US) Well, I tried to get the assembly off but no way; no how. I take it that the two #4 Philips screws just underneath the rub rail screw into the 2 little chocks on either side of the bow light. Can anyone confirm this. The screws turn and the chocks turn and there's no way I'm getting them off without taking the plating off them. I think they are stripped as there are quite a few metal shaving pieces under the light base. Any hints?
4Runner	posted 07-17-2003 09:35 PM ET (US) The two screws under the rub rail holds it on. However BW uses a lot of Lok-Tite (red) at assembly. I used a phillips bit with a ratchet to take it off. You can use a little heat (heat gun for removing paint or possibly a very hot hair drier - no torch because it will dis-color the chrome) to help break the lok-tite if needed. The chocks have a small square section like a carrige bolt that engages the base to keep it from turning. I plan to use the blue lok-tite at reassembly so it is more easily removable the next time.
4Runner	posted 07-17-2003 09:41 PM ET (US) Jimm I also used a large screw driver under the base as a wedge to keep the square section engaged with the base. No force is applied with the screw driver. It just needs to keep it snug. The square section is tapered so if it is not kept tight with the base it will turn.
Jimm	posted 07-17-2003 09:52 PM ET (US) Now I know where all the brass shavings are from - the chocks, with the square base, are turning. The pieces were there before I started. May I ask what your hull # is or date of manufacture? Thanks
4Runner	posted 07-17-2003 10:09 PM ET (US) Mfr date 24 June '02