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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
|Author||Topic: Conquest 255|
posted 01-27-2004 10:12 AM ET (US)
I purchased a Conquest 255 last year and have generally been very pleased with it. Problems have included cracking of the GRP/fibre-glass in several areas of the cockpit and faulty navigation lights and poor door lock/latch to cabin.
The headliner also fell down in cabin.
These problems have been or will be fixed under warranty so apart from time taken to resolve then rather than being on the water I am pleased with way Whaler have dealt with them.
Two oustanding issues are: (i) Poor drainage to cockpit. Whenever it rains or I wash the boat, water drains into bilge with result automatic bilge pump is being used too much and has become faulty. Whaler say noone else has complained. I see this as a design fault.
(ii) I have found it difficult to get good information about optimal transducer locations/types for 255. The inhull one fitted does not work and I have now opted for a thru hull. The transom mounted transducer was too big. I have a Raymarine package with DSM 250 Fishfinder.
Has anyone else had similar experiences or got any advice
posted 01-27-2004 12:39 PM ET (US)
I have a 03 Conquest with 200 Hpdi's. I have experienced very few issues with the boat. All of the hatches were replaced after 5 months due to delamination. Not very many fiberglass/gel coat issues and yes if you wash the boat down the hatch between the helm station will allow water to accumulate to the bilge. I have added a Rule 1500 automatic pump wired to the 2nd battery. My boat is in dry storage so this is not an issue although my rule pump that came with the boat was replaced since the factory loaded the output side of the pump with caulk significantly reducing the pumps cabilities and leading to a failure. I have a standard horizon depth sounder which is connected to an airmar P79 shoot thru the hull and as of yetI have not connected it up. Whaler will provide a drawing for transducer location if you are using thru hull or shoot thru. The location is forward of the pump out hose by about 3" where the thru hull is. Overall I am pleased with the boat. I also had the dealer install a cig lighter in the cabin and remote mic for my standard vhf.
What type of xducer are you using? That may be your problem.
posted 01-27-2004 01:01 PM ET (US)
You can go to Airmar.com for ducer info and for specifics on your issue try posting on Florida Sportsman or the Hull Truth sites.
posted 01-27-2004 01:15 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply and info on water in bilge. My problem is the rear hatch to fuel tank/batteries because of inadequate drainage through transom ( there is a lip between drainage tube and hatch surround.
I'm based in Jersey, Channel Islands (off the coast of France) where the waves are sometimes big and the UK Whaler dealer thinks we are mad taking our boats out in big seas (most of his customers stay at home once it reaches Force 4 ! ). I had mine out in a Force 7 last September with 12-15 ft waves and I felt very safe. So I won't get you to call long distance ! I have twin Yamaha 150 HPDIs (they don't sell many Whalers with Mercury in the UK).
Re the transducer I have a Raymarine M256 fitted in hull ( shoot ?). It doesn't work and has been re-fitted three times. Raymarine now tell me that Whaler told them in hull won't work well on a 255 and I should either transom mount or fit thru hull. I've opted for a Raymarine B256 Bronze Thru Hull on recommendation of a Raymarine engineer. I hope your set-up works when you connect it!
posted 01-27-2004 01:27 PM ET (US)
My depth sounder is the standard horizon panel mount with a max depth of 200 feet, not looking at fish or great depths. I thought you were in NEW Jersey!
What fiberglass problems did you encounter and OK on the Yamahas, mine does about 48 mph topped out with the 200 HPDI's.
posted 01-28-2004 05:19 AM ET (US)
I have cracking/crazing of fiberglass on joins to hatches and step-up to walk around in decking. There are around five isolated areas. My twin Yamaha 150s give me around 36 mph flat out. But tests I have read said I should get 40.
posted 01-28-2004 12:07 PM ET (US)
You may want to check your props I'm using a set of saltwater series 15/ 17's. I can easily get 47-48 and probably 50 if I'm trimmed out all the way with a light load.
posted 02-02-2004 05:46 PM ET (US)
First post, so be nice to me
I have a conquest 255 with twin yamaha 200 4 strokes. I keep it between Ballycastle in County Antrim Ireland and PortNaBlagh in County Donegal Ireland. It was new last August.
It has been out in very heavy seas, like you, JerseyDom and excels at almost everything it does, what a boat !
It replaced an Outrage 21 with twin Yamaha 130 2 strokes. I liked the 21 a lot and the 255 is almost everything I wanted. I say almost, because I think the 255 could have been such a good boat, but I think corners have been cut.
I had the same problem with the in hull transucer. It just won't work. The guys at Dorset Yacht (the UK and Ireland distributor) had to take it out and fit a traditional one. I also have the raymarine set up.
The door to the cabin is very poor and I had to repair it myself, as I am so far away from the Distributor. A number of the screws are rusting on the hard top and railings, the Throttles became very sticky after about 40 hours and needed brute force to avoid a near embarassment with the marina (Yamaha, not BW, I know). The cabin also leaks from the three frame surrounds.
Yes one of my lights has failed and yes I think the bilge is overworked. I'm from Ireland, why do you think our grass is so green ? we are experts in rainfall.
Despite all this, I think the design, safety and capability of this boat is amazing.
Finally, Since buying my first Whaler 5 years ago, a large number of new whalers have appeared in the vicinity. This is, no doubt due to my ravings and another intrepid BW convert. We strongly recommend the brand to all our friends and neighbours.
I feel let down by the lack of attention to detail. I hope this is not too negative Dominic, enjoy your Conquest
posted 02-02-2004 06:53 PM ET (US)
Welcome, glad to have you aboard. There is a throttle mod that changes bushings on Yamaha F225s, that probably applies to your engines as well. You might check and see if it applies.
Kemp Lindsey / Boise,Idaho
posted 02-03-2004 06:56 AM ET (US)
Many thanks. It does apply to the 200's (they are the same engines apparently, just a different chip) and I have had the work completed under Yamaha warranty.
posted 02-03-2004 01:29 PM ET (US)
I ahad thought about the F200's also but felt that the weight would cause the scuppers to go under with a full load of fuel & water so I went with the HPDI's.
Other than hatch delamination I have experienced no significant problems. I intend to use the standard depth sounder with the airmar P79 in hull. Hopefully it will work as you are aware Whaler did allow a designated place in the bilge for ducer mounting.
I did add a 2nd bilge pump Rule 1500 Automatic operated by the same in dash switch on the panel.Added a thru-hull also for the pump out. So far no major complaints.
My green and red bow/navigation lights also failed due to corrosion.
posted 03-05-2004 07:08 AM ET (US)
Thanks for your reply. Sorry for not responding sooner. Lost my password !
Looks like we have similar views. Great boat design but work quality seems a little shoddy for a boat of this price. My boat sitting in the Marina also tempted a fellow Jerseyman to cancel an order for another boat and buy a Whaler 275.
I am surprised Whaler is not responding to the issues as I have raised them to Dorset Yacht and can't beleive we are the only ones to complain. I felt when buying my Whaler that I would be a customer for life but my experience will make me at least look at other options when I come to trade in the boat for a new one.
posted 03-05-2004 09:33 AM ET (US)
What is on your current 'list of issues' with the boat?
posted 03-06-2004 09:29 AM ET (US)
posted 03-12-2004 01:05 PM ET (US)
Principally the crazing/cracking of GRP in over 5 places and the poor cabin hatch fittings. The headlining has fallen down and needed to be fixed and several of the metal fittings have rusted already.
posted 03-12-2004 06:05 PM ET (US)
Also any stainless fitting/screws/hardware are all going to rust eventually, the best way to keep them rustfree is always to spray down with a lubricant,even silicon,wd40,etc.
I always spray my bow railing down with rupps aluma guard or corrosion block or corrosion pro, hence NO rust!
If you are having problems with the headliner I'm sure the dealer can resolve that and replace and hardware that may be defective. You could always email Whaler and I'm sure theyll take care of you.
Keep us informed and have a great boating summer!!!!!
posted 03-12-2004 08:25 PM ET (US)
GRP = 'glass reinforced plastic
FRP = fiberglass reinforced plastic
posted 03-22-2004 06:12 AM ET (US)
Jimh answered the question re GRP. I should have also added that I have had problems with the Nav lights. The steaming light has no worked since I had it, the starboard light took in water and rusted up within a couple of weeks. And the decal trim peeled in places within a few weeks of me getting the boat.
Agree fittings wil rust eventually but in first month is a bit to much !
The gelcoat cracking is the most distressing.
I am happy to report that Boston Whaler's UK re Dorset Yacht has paid up in full to get these thinsg resolved. No problems with aftersale service but a pity I've had to resort to warranty claims.
Build quality not what I expected from my first Whaler purchase but still a very proud owner and having lots of fun !
posted 03-22-2004 09:24 AM ET (US)
JerseyDom--I don't know how they transport them from Edgewater, Florida to the U.K. Maybe this one came across on the deck of a ship and it was a rough week--took a lot of salt spray perhaps.
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