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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
Rage drive units
|Author||Topic: Rage drive units|
posted 03-11-2005 09:42 AM ET (US)
Does anyone know who makes the jet drive units for the OMC Rages? The OMC jet drives that are shown in their manual do not look like what's on my '95 Rage. Also do they require any maintenance and what is a reasonable life span for them. Can thay be rebuilt? I know I can always replace my powerhead but what about the drive? I have seen links on this site that mention changing to an outboard but that would destroy some of what I like most about this boat. So far in five years I have had no problems but nothing last forever.
|BOB KEMMLER JR||
posted 03-11-2005 10:23 AM ET (US)
5 years?good to hear some success stories for a change.As far as i know,if you have the omc motor,than there should only be one jetdrive for that engine.I think it was made by "TurboJet Marine",but it might also be a omc product.Search out Tuna1,he's the best Rage expert i know of.Good luck and just keep the gear lube changed,maybe even run synthetic.
posted 03-11-2005 12:06 PM ET (US)
The drives were indeed manufactured by OMC, they were referred to as 'OMC Turbojet' similar to the way Merc refers to theirs as 'Merc Sportjet'.
As for replacement parts and upgrades, the following website is the best I've found so far, they even have replacements for the flywheel covers that all seem to be cracked apart by now.
posted 03-11-2005 09:47 PM ET (US)
Anyone used the "Performance Kit" that turbojetmarineproducts.com sells?? Still trying to figure out how a 3" extension to the jet pump adds 2-4mph.
I'm still trying to get mine out of "break-in". Finally checked the timing last weekend, and it was 2° "late", so my WOT advance was only 26°. (28°+/- 1° is the spec).
Best maintenance for the "inlet housing" (AKA Gearbox) is to replace the gear oil every 100 hours of operation or once each season, and use the OMC Ultra-HPF gear lube (84.6 Oz). The shaft seals can be replaced, but I've not owned mine long enough to determine an interval for their replacement.
Speaking of drive units: How easily should the impeller housing slide back to clear debris or insert the fresh water flush device? I seem to have to tug at my housing rather mightily to get it to slide back. I tried lubricating the housing alignment pins with silicone lube, but it wasn't too much easier afterward. I'm thinking I need to lube the O-rings on the steering and gear shift cables as they exit the housing. (it wasn't until I got the service manual last weekend, I realized how they sealed those cables running through the transom underwater.)
posted 03-13-2005 01:41 PM ET (US)
TurboJet Marine Products in Waukegan,Ill. Is The Place to go for replacement parts.They purchased all the NOS Turbojet parts when OMC closed their doors.
The Impeller Assemble Section should slide back easily when the catches for the assembly are released along with the shift cable latch.Use OMC Triple-Guard Grease to lube the cables and slides.
OMC made two Performance Kits for the 115JE TurboJets. The one mention is OMC part #438393 is the pump kit.It was set of parts that allowed more water to be pumped thur the drive and developed more thrust.It was a different inlet grate(a loader design),a drive extension,a drive shaft extension,9" long drive pins,and a different nozzle(part #342340),plus a few other part.The intake grill loaded the pump with more water,the extension-helps the flow,and the nozzle change allows a higher exit preasure/speed.It does work-$550.00 the price.
OMC also made a engine preformance kit for the 115JE engine.It was a different set of cylinder heads,a larger better flowing muffler,and a different pump nozzel(part #342324).It was improved Hp,and water flow thur the pump.
posted 03-13-2005 10:51 PM ET (US)
I see a trick here that I am missing: "Shift Cable Latch"
Nowehere in the Operation & Maintenance manual does it say "unlatch the shift cable latch" in the proceedure for clearning a blockage. It simply says: Release both housing latches, Slide the housing back to disengage the impeller from the drive shaft, Clear the blockage, Slide the housing forward and close both latches.
So, technically I've been doing this all wrong from the get-go. That little latch looking affair on top of the shift cable needs to be opened, and the cable detached from the bracket to allow the housing to slide back easily.
Honestly, I only ever tried pulling the housing back once on a Rage at the Miami show. I remember it was possible through the opening in the platform, but I remember slipping the housing forward again was a bit quirky. I remember thinking it would be more fun in a lake with some waves...
Interesting details about the various upgrade kits. Where do you learn all this stuff Tuna? I know you've had 3 or 4 of these boats now...
posted 03-13-2005 10:58 PM ET (US)
Minor addendum: Only ever tried on a NEW Rage once at Miami in 1994/1995/1996 (I remember it was the OMC engine, the the Mercury).
I've pulled my own 10 year old housing back dozens of times now... Apparently never with the right instruction...
posted 03-13-2005 11:57 PM ET (US)
Sometimes the impeller moves and the splines will not align when you push the assembly forward.Inwhich case you need to finger the tip of the impeller to move it a little to get the proper alignment of the splines,and then slide it forward. First year for the Mercury SportJets was 1997.Been working with jet drives since the 70's.First one was a Bueler from the 1960's
posted 03-14-2005 11:11 PM ET (US)
I've done the fishing the impeller slightly side to side with my finger in the crack routine. Generally, the impeller alignment is not the difficulty. It's probably a matter of attempting to slide the gear shift cable in and out of the hull since I haven't been detaching the shift cable latch that you mentioned.
I'll have to pickup some OMC triple guard grease and see if I can get a combination of things to work. Or, I'll have to pull the entire impeller assembly off and determine whether the bushings are forming corrosion around them causing them to bind on the guide pegs.
posted 03-15-2005 11:29 AM ET (US)
The rear/impeller drive section is not filled with any gear lube,it relies on the grease in the sealed bearings.It would be a good thing to strip it off the pins and examine it closely.Look at the impeller and wear ring and look at the clearance and wear in betweem the tips of the impeller and the wear ring.Dress any nicks and dings in the impeller and stator blades, being carefull not to remove to much.The sealed ball bearings that support the shaft in the unit relies on the lip seals so water won't enter the unit,i would pull the cone cover off the assembly and check for water intrusion into the unit.Check the o-ring and replace if needed.The unit needs some attension every couple of yeasrs because it is the heart off the pump system - if it's worn your preformance will be off.It's the best bang for your $$$ in how your Rage preforms on the water.
posted 03-16-2005 08:20 PM ET (US)
I'll certainly have to pull the impeller assembly off sometime and see how everything looks (impeller, wear ring, blade tips, etc.) My main difficulty is getting the impeller asssembly to slide fore and aft on its pins when using the flusing attachment. (or actually attempting to clear a blockage which I haven't really experienced yet).
I still suspect I may have some corrosion forming around the bushings in the housing, causing them to be tighter than they should be on the alignment pins. At some point, the boat sat in the water for more than overnight, and it's showing signs of corrosion here and there...
Disassembling the entire thing wouldn't be a bad idea. I could take the opportunity to spot sand the outer casing of the housing where it needs attention, zinc chromate prime the outside, and repaint the assembly. Thanks again for the suggestions...
posted 08-04-2006 08:07 PM ET (US)
I have a 1995 Rage with a 115hp. Its only getting about 24mph and is really slugish when I try to accelerate. Seems like the impeller is cavitating. I checked the impeller, a few real minor nicks nothing major. There does seem to be excessive space between the blade tips and the housing. Anyone know what the clearence should be? I suspect that is the wear ring? Any other ideas what might be wrong? nothing in the intake either. 200 hours on the boat, the impeller has not been rebuilt.
posted 08-06-2006 07:02 PM ET (US)
Tazman did you find anything out I have the same problem.
posted 08-07-2006 04:43 PM ET (US)
the folks at turbojet.com should be able to help.
posted 08-07-2006 11:41 PM ET (US)
What's the RPM reading on the tach at 24mph? How many people onboard? I suspect if your tachometer reading is above 5300RPM, and you're only doing 24mph, then something is definitely wrong.
posted 07-23-2007 04:37 PM ET (US)
Hi..I'm searching for a new impreller assy for my recently purchased '95 Rage 15. The site called "turbojetmarineproducts" seems to be out of business. If anyone can offer any help, I would be grateful!
posted 07-25-2007 10:58 PM ET (US)
I highly doubt Lisa at Turbojet Marine Products is out of business. I know a customer who bought something from her last week. Follow this link: http://continuouswave.com/cgi-bin/ubbmisc.cgi?action=getbio& UserName=turbojetmarineproducts
She only started visiting here recently, but it's always easier to find her via her own Email box.
posted 08-28-2007 03:46 PM ET (US)
Hi Gang...WhereTo is correct..Lisa at TurboJet Marine is still very much in business..I finally was able to reach her and bought a new impeller for my '95 Rage 15. She is very knowledgeable and very good to deal with. Highly recommend her!!
Also, if you are having trouble sliding your impeller off, it could be because the allignment pins are also the anodes (anti-corrosion devices) for the drive unit. Anodes tend to "fuzz up" in the normal course of doing their thing protecting the metal from corrosion. Take some steel wool or very fine grit sandpaper and LIGHTLY clean them off, you will see a big difference. Just don't get carried away as they are made from zinc and are very soft metal.
posted 08-28-2007 10:01 PM ET (US)
I don't think the alignment pins are actually made of zinc. They are quite soft, but they come anodized when they are new. The anodizing would keep them from effectively being sacrificial.
I will admit that the guide pins do corrode when the anodizing wears off them. My original guide pins were very difficult to deal with, but the new longer pins that came with the Performance Kit are much better. Of course, having some Triple Guard grease on them helps too.
posted 09-04-2007 08:36 PM ET (US)
1994rage115 turbojet anyone had problems with impeller locking in stainless sleeve do to corrosion between aluminum housing and stainless sleeve last 3 years i had to have sleeve honed out or have new sleeve made and pressed in looking for permanent fix boat is flushed after use metal parts coated with cr6 off season boat is stored in climate controlled shop with battery disconnected zincs are new
posted 09-07-2007 11:56 PM ET (US)
On the impeller housing that came with my boat, the wear ring is continually being pressed into the path of the impeller by corrosion. I take it off the high spot with a dremel sanding wheel about once a year. I bought an entire impeller housing used from a guy who was parting out his drive, so I have a backup for the day when the dremel goes through the wear ring.
posted 12-07-2007 11:53 PM ET (US)
Let us know if you guys have questions: www.turbojetmarineproducts.com
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