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Author Topic:   170 Montauk Auxiliary Engine Bracket

MantyMonty posted 04-09-2005 05:58 PM ET (US)
I just finished mounting the control switch and CMC Power Tilt kicker bracket on my 2004 170 Montauk today. It turned out great. After a lot of measuring, planning, and purchasing, I completed it with no problems. I [had] some pictures. [Dead link]
I included a tape measure so dimensions can be seen. [The bracket] is thru-bolted in four places with NC-1/2-inch-13 x 5-inch bolts, lock washers, and acorn nuts (all stainless steel). The 1-inch and 3/8-inch white kingboard was purchased from Buck Woodcraft in Florida. They are great people to work with. Now I have to wait until the middle of May to get my 2006 T9.9 Yamaha High Thrust to put on this bracket.
The Icom 502 radio was changed yesterday too. I put in a Standard Horizon Phantom VHF instead.
jimh posted 04-09-2005 07:39 PM ET (US)
[Fixed URI and made hyperlink.]
Using 1/2NC-13 hardware is a good choice as those zinc sacrificial anodes cap nuts are also threaded with that diameter and pitch.
timsr posted 04-09-2005 08:30 PM ET (US)
Manty in picture number 9 it looks like you have some type of vhf antenna on the side of the center console. If it is can you tell me the model, if not can you tell me what it is. I also really like that new phanton VHF, exactly what I'm ordering for my new Montauk.
Thanks
MantyMonty posted 04-09-2005 09:09 PM ET (US)
That antenna is the external antenna for the Garmin 188C's GPS. I have a 36" stubby Shakespere mounted on the front grab rail in front of the windshield, on a ratchet mount.
dcritch posted 04-09-2005 09:58 PM ET (US)
Manty
Thats a first class braket! Any idea how much it weighs? Also Where did you mount the Phantom unit inside your center console?
MantyMonty posted 04-09-2005 10:04 PM ET (US)
I think it weighs around 20 lbs. I didn't mount the remote part of the reciever yet, it is just sitting in the C.C. until I get the second battery box mounted, and a 2 bank charger mounted. I probably will anchor it on a piece of starboard in the C.C., somewhere vertically.
dcritch posted 04-09-2005 10:19 PM ET (US)
Does your Dri-Dek stay put when trailering without a boat cover? Also, is it easy to lift up to clean underneath.
MantyMonty posted 04-09-2005 10:25 PM ET (US)
The dri-dek doesn't move at all. It is fit quite close to everything with no play. The stuff is pretty heavy anyway. I take it out and fold it up when cleaning underneath. It is easy to take out and put back in. The initial istallation took some time however.
erik selis posted 04-10-2005 04:05 AM ET (US)
Nice looking bracket Monty. It's the first one I have seen with four through-bolted fastners on the 170 Montauk.
I like the way you modified the interface(nylon?)plate to match the rub rail. A great idea for bringing the bracket up higher. Well done.
Erik
MantyMonty posted 04-10-2005 05:57 PM ET (US)
The Kingboard baseplate is 1" thick with a 1/4" thick laminate layer glued and screwed to the 1" sheet. I took a contour gauge to get the shape of the rubrail and upper transom, then I took a router and used several different bits/cutters to get the final shape so it would fit around the rubrail area.
Divedog posted 04-14-2005 02:06 PM ET (US)
Thanks for sharing your pictures. Bet of luck come fishing season.
WT posted 04-14-2005 02:33 PM ET (US)
Nice work!! Did you swap out for larger diameter wheels on your trailer?
Thanks,
Warren
MantyMonty posted 04-14-2005 07:38 PM ET (US)
The tires are still 13 inch, but I switched to Titan ST II radials. The rims are aluminum star mags. I only dip them in fresh water, so corrosion won't be a big concern. They are clear coated though.
Next step is to get Lake Michigan to calm down a bit and get the air temp up a bit.
Have a good day.
MantyMonty posted 05-24-2005 07:03 PM ET (US)
Just an update on the kicker installation. I got my 2006 T9.9 25 inch Yamaha High Thrust kicker yesterday. I mounted it on the CMC PT-35 bracket, and filled it's gas tank. Several minutes to hook up the battery, and it was off to the launch today. Lake Michigan was kinda rough with 3 foot chop. I motored out of the harbor, and passed the pier heads, and gave her the throttle (the 90hp. 2 stroke Merc.). It was up on plane in seconds as usual and cruised at 3100 in the rough chop. Fortunately it was a balmy 57 degrees to boot. The weight of the kicker, bracket, 3 gal.gas tank, second battery, 27 gal. Pate and pail of lead downrigger balls didn't seem to produce any ill handling charateristics or listing problems. As I motored out to sea, my wife observed the boat actually leaning to the port side if anything. I don't go an ounce over 220, so it certainly couldn't have been that factor, ha. All in all, the kicker and mount work great. The T9.9 sure is smooth and quiet. It doesn't bounce at all when under power with the main and kicker tilted up. I am using the EZ steer system, which is also a very nice product. Thats it for today, have a nice night!
Rich M posted 05-24-2005 10:52 PM ET (US)
MantyMonty,
Thanks so much for the update. I've followed your install with great interest from the start and I'm very enthusiastic about your results. Congrats on a job well done. I run my 170 in the Grand Traverse bays of Lake Michigan and in the lower chain running riggers for salmon and lakers. Looks like a kicker with power tilt is on the to-do list for next season.
MantyMonty posted 05-24-2005 11:06 PM ET (US)
Rich M,
What method do you use to mount your downriggers? I had a board across the back last season, this year I am going to use rail mounts, unless something better comes along.
walf posted 05-25-2005 11:27 AM ET (US)
any problem connecting the garmin gps to a standard horizon phantom? I am going to buy the same products for my new 170 montauk.
MantyMonty posted 05-25-2005 08:24 PM ET (US)
No problems with the pair. I had an Icom 502 last season, and I could not squelch out the interference from the Garmin 188C. With the Garmin off, the radio was crystal clear, as soon as the Garmin was powered up, the radio was rendered useless. The Phantom is a nice setup due to it's ease of removal if needed at the end of the day. The idea of having the rest of the radio out of the elements is a good thing too. Have a good night.
Rich M posted 05-25-2005 08:27 PM ET (US)
Manty,
I use Cannon rail mounts, they work perfectly and I drag 13lb pancakes to 200'+ on 4' booms.
MantyMonty posted 05-25-2005 08:38 PM ET (US)
Forgot to mention the performance of the T9.9 Yamaha. I took her out for a trial run today in Lake Michigan with my son. The seas were relatively calm and water temp was 46 degrees. The Yamaha T9.9 EXH2 pushes the boat anywhere from 1 mph to 6.5 mph according to the GPS. The motor is barely audible when at idle. This motor is going to be great for slow trolling. The motor does not move on the CMC bracket when under way with the 90 Merc. Top speed with the 90 2 stroke with the added weight is 40.1 mph per the GPS. Without the 9.9 mounted, top speed was 43 or 44 mph.
Divedog posted 05-26-2005 10:19 AM ET (US)
MantyMonty-
If you get a chance, I'd love to see some pictures with the motor installed.
Happy Fishing.
MantyMonty posted 06-02-2005 09:04 PM ET (US)
Divedog,
I finally took a couple of pictures of the Yamaha kicker while out on Lake Michigan yesterday. [url] http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/teedertodder4u/detail?.dir=/ffc8&.dnm=136c.jpg&.src=ph[/url] My son and I went out to wet a few lines. We had to go out 7.4 miles to get to 164 feet, which still proved to be to close-in. Others were heading out to 300+ feet. That was a little too far for our time frame and safety factor. As it was, the wind kicked up a little on the way in from 7.4 miles. The motor is an excellent troller and unbelievably easy to operate and start. Haven't hardly noticed any gas gone from the 6 gal can yet. It's fuel efficiency is great. The EZ steer system works good too. Any other questions let me know.
I am having the bottom barrier coated and VC17 paint put on next week. The final finish is going to be a racing finish that the local sailing club strives for on thier rigs. Have a great night.
MantyMonty posted 06-02-2005 09:41 PM ET (US)
Sorry, the hyper didn't work, must be off. The pictures are in the same folder as I have listed in the first posting for this subject.
Divedog posted 06-03-2005 01:55 PM ET (US)
Thanks for sharing your pictures. Great setup!
I just finished my last major boat project, short of a kicker motor. Last weekend I installed a Jensen CD player and four Infinity speakers. Sounds fantastic. The weekend before that I installed an Icom VHF and two Shakespeare antennas. I'm also running a Scotty downrigger set up similar to yours.
erik selis posted 06-03-2005 02:57 PM ET (US)
Your kicker setup looks great! It's exactly what I'm planning to do. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
Erik
timsr posted 06-03-2005 07:30 PM ET (US)
MantMonty your set up looks great. I was wondering if you or anyone else have considered or rigged up the main gas line so that it can feed both the main engine and the kicker through some type of y-fitting.
Thanks
MantyMonty posted 06-03-2005 11:24 PM ET (US)
I considered plumbing the kicker into the Pate 27 tank, but after numerous posts about engine failure, it was mentioned that 90 some percent of engine failures are fuel related. I work in the nuclear industry, and independent and redundant backup systems has been engrained in my head over the last 23 years. The 6 gal. gas tank and bucket of lead downrigger balls gives ballast to the port side to balancs out the 112 lb. Yamaha. The 9.9 also has it's independent battery for starting functions in the CC.
Have a nice night and weekend.
wywhaler posted 02-10-2007 04:48 PM ET (US)
Manty Monty:
I'm going to put the PT-35 on my new 170 Montauk and I'm wondering if any or all of the VIN# on the starboard transom is covered up by the bracket? I'm concerned about this with regard to law enforcement. I'm not eager to have to take the whole thing off, so they can verify the number.
My thinking is; that I might sort of route out a little window in the Starboard to look through to see the VIN#. How's the Starboard holding up?
Ron
MantyMonty posted 02-11-2007 07:33 PM ET (US)
The board looks like the day I put it on. I had thoughts of doing a window idea too, but I never did it. It does cover the number up. I am not near my boat now in winter, but I was thinking there is a tag on the center console with the number on it too, maybe I am all wet too. It seems to me I remember a tag there, but maybe not. The unit sure is a nice solid bracket and shows absolutely no signs of wear or leakage of any sort.
wywhaler posted 02-11-2007 10:26 PM ET (US)
Glad to hear that the Starboard is holding up. I bought a 12" x 12" piece 1 1/2 in thick. Man that stuff is expensive.
I'll check with Whaler customer service to see if the HIN number is also located somewhere else. When I find out, one way or another, I'll post it here.
I'm putting a Honda 9.9 as a kicker and I'm hoping it turns out as well as yours. Same frame and weight as the 8 hp, so I opted for the extra 2 horses.
The Montauk is down at my son's place in Colorado, so when we start putting the accessories on I'll try to come up with a way to view that HIN with the bracket on, in case Whaler say's that's the only place it's located.
Ron
wywhaler posted 02-11-2007 10:41 PM ET (US)
Forgot to mention that when I asked Whaler customer service if it would be OK to mount a kicker on the starboard transom, they referred me to your pictures as the way I should go about it.
Ron
wywhaler posted 02-11-2007 11:03 PM ET (US)
Been looking at the PT-35 bracket, as it's still sitting here waiting to be installed. The side that mounts toward the transom has a 1 3/4 in opening in the center running vertically almost the entire length of the plate. While a 1 3/4 in opening might not be enough to read the HIM, I'm thinking that if I route out the Starboard window 30 degrees to the left and right of straight ahead, the whole number should be visable when the assembly is in the up position. Maybe you could do the same with it already mounted, if you need to.
Ron
MantyMonty posted 02-11-2007 11:13 PM ET (US)
Sounds like something to look into this spring. I haven't been by my boat in a while due to it being in storage for the winter. I know the area on the bracket you are refering to though. Thats nice Whaler people watch this forum for information for customer relations. There are a lot of interesting modification ideas from the vast diversity of whaler owners on this forum. Cudos to us I guess!
wywhaler posted 02-12-2007 12:11 AM ET (US)
What I asked Whaler customer service was whether or not mounting the kicker to the starboard transom would affect the hull warranty. They said it would not affect the hull warranty if it was bolted to the transom and the holes were properly sealed. I suppose any good bracket, bolted to the transom, would be OK. They included a link to your photos.
Ron
wywhaler posted 02-12-2007 12:25 AM ET (US)
What Whaler customer service actually said was not just bolted but that the bracket needs to be properly thru-bolted.
Ron
wywhaler posted 02-12-2007 07:59 PM ET (US)
The word from Whaler customer service is that the "hidden" hull id number is located under the center console on the raised part, starboard side.
Ron
wywhaler posted 02-15-2007 04:19 AM ET (US)
MantyMonty
Noticed the modified bolt placement on the transom. I'm going to do something similar, but maybe six bolts.
When you were figuring the vertical measurements, did you used the level of the antiventilation plate of the main engine as a guide for where the antiventilation plate on the kicker should be?
Looks like the HIN is positioned more toward the outside of the transom, so maybe a window coming in from the right side might work.
Ron
MantyMonty posted 02-17-2007 11:55 AM ET (US)
I made sure the CMC tilt bracket would operate correctly over the top of the transom. Then I held the motor on the bracket and operated the tilt to make sure the motor couling would clear the rubrail. Then I looked to see where the cav plate and water inlet holes were on the kicker. That is why I use a 25" shaft kicker. That put it at the perfect height.
wywhaler posted 02-17-2007 05:07 PM ET (US)
Sounds like the way to go. How close to not clearing the rubrail for the PT-35 or the engine cowling? Believe the shaft on the Honda BF9.9D is 22.2 in. Did you run into any unusual issues during installation?
Ron
MantyMonty posted 02-17-2007 06:07 PM ET (US)
You can see in the pictures how the top of the metal comes to the rubrail height. Just temp power up the CMC bracket and flip the switch, be careful of your fingers though, and set the height of the bracket on the transom. No surprises on this mod. Measure three times and drill once. Make sure you countersink the holes nicely to prevent any spidering in the gel coat.
wywhaler posted 02-17-2007 11:42 PM ET (US)
Thanks for all the info. I'm finding your pictures to be a real resource. Looking from the port side, the front of the cowling on the Honda lines up with the rear edge of the mounting bracket on the engine. That puts the rear engine mounting plate of the PT-35 in line with the front of the cowl. I think that's a little farther back than the Yamaha. Also, the tiller is located above the lower edge of the cowling, so I'm thinking it's not going to be a problem.
I'm not sure that I'll try to make the rubrail cut in the Starboard because I'll probably mess it up and I don't think the overlapping piece contributes much to the strength overall.
From the pictures, it looks like the Yamaha powerhead sits up a bit higher from the mounting clamps than does the Honda. The CMC book recommends mounting the bracket with 1 inch of the top of the front plate above the transom. I'm pretty sure the 22.2 shaft length will work but I might have to mount the bracket a little lower. Might have to use some extra bolts. Is that part of the transom solid fibreglass with wood, is it part foam?
What is the overall height of the Yamaha? The Honda is 48.6 inches. Might give me an idea of how much adjusting I'm going to have to do.
Thanks for your help
Ron
MantyMonty posted 02-18-2007 07:34 PM ET (US)
It seems to me I had wood coming out with the drill bit on all four holes. I do know that when acorn nuts were tightened up, there was never any compression of the gel material. It was real solid. I do not have access to my boat or motor until late spring, so Icannot furnish any measurements, sorry. Have a good weekend.

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Author	Topic: 170 Montauk Auxiliary Engine Bracket
MantyMonty	posted 04-09-2005 05:58 PM ET (US) I just finished mounting the control switch and CMC Power Tilt kicker bracket on my 2004 170 Montauk today. It turned out great. After a lot of measuring, planning, and purchasing, I completed it with no problems. I [had] some pictures. [Dead link] I included a tape measure so dimensions can be seen. [The bracket] is thru-bolted in four places with NC-1/2-inch-13 x 5-inch bolts, lock washers, and acorn nuts (all stainless steel). The 1-inch and 3/8-inch white kingboard was purchased from Buck Woodcraft in Florida. They are great people to work with. Now I have to wait until the middle of May to get my 2006 T9.9 Yamaha High Thrust to put on this bracket. The Icom 502 radio was changed yesterday too. I put in a Standard Horizon Phantom VHF instead.
jimh	posted 04-09-2005 07:39 PM ET (US) [Fixed URI and made hyperlink.] Using 1/2NC-13 hardware is a good choice as those zinc sacrificial anodes cap nuts are also threaded with that diameter and pitch.
timsr	posted 04-09-2005 08:30 PM ET (US) Manty in picture number 9 it looks like you have some type of vhf antenna on the side of the center console. If it is can you tell me the model, if not can you tell me what it is. I also really like that new phanton VHF, exactly what I'm ordering for my new Montauk. Thanks
MantyMonty	posted 04-09-2005 09:09 PM ET (US) That antenna is the external antenna for the Garmin 188C's GPS. I have a 36" stubby Shakespere mounted on the front grab rail in front of the windshield, on a ratchet mount.
dcritch	posted 04-09-2005 09:58 PM ET (US) Manty Thats a first class braket! Any idea how much it weighs? Also Where did you mount the Phantom unit inside your center console?
MantyMonty	posted 04-09-2005 10:04 PM ET (US) I think it weighs around 20 lbs. I didn't mount the remote part of the reciever yet, it is just sitting in the C.C. until I get the second battery box mounted, and a 2 bank charger mounted. I probably will anchor it on a piece of starboard in the C.C., somewhere vertically.
dcritch	posted 04-09-2005 10:19 PM ET (US) Does your Dri-Dek stay put when trailering without a boat cover? Also, is it easy to lift up to clean underneath.
MantyMonty	posted 04-09-2005 10:25 PM ET (US) The dri-dek doesn't move at all. It is fit quite close to everything with no play. The stuff is pretty heavy anyway. I take it out and fold it up when cleaning underneath. It is easy to take out and put back in. The initial istallation took some time however.
erik selis	posted 04-10-2005 04:05 AM ET (US) Nice looking bracket Monty. It's the first one I have seen with four through-bolted fastners on the 170 Montauk. I like the way you modified the interface(nylon?)plate to match the rub rail. A great idea for bringing the bracket up higher. Well done. Erik
MantyMonty	posted 04-10-2005 05:57 PM ET (US) The Kingboard baseplate is 1" thick with a 1/4" thick laminate layer glued and screwed to the 1" sheet. I took a contour gauge to get the shape of the rubrail and upper transom, then I took a router and used several different bits/cutters to get the final shape so it would fit around the rubrail area.
Divedog	posted 04-14-2005 02:06 PM ET (US) Thanks for sharing your pictures. Bet of luck come fishing season.
WT	posted 04-14-2005 02:33 PM ET (US) Nice work!! Did you swap out for larger diameter wheels on your trailer? Thanks, Warren
MantyMonty	posted 04-14-2005 07:38 PM ET (US) The tires are still 13 inch, but I switched to Titan ST II radials. The rims are aluminum star mags. I only dip them in fresh water, so corrosion won't be a big concern. They are clear coated though. Next step is to get Lake Michigan to calm down a bit and get the air temp up a bit. Have a good day.
MantyMonty	posted 05-24-2005 07:03 PM ET (US) Just an update on the kicker installation. I got my 2006 T9.9 25 inch Yamaha High Thrust kicker yesterday. I mounted it on the CMC PT-35 bracket, and filled it's gas tank. Several minutes to hook up the battery, and it was off to the launch today. Lake Michigan was kinda rough with 3 foot chop. I motored out of the harbor, and passed the pier heads, and gave her the throttle (the 90hp. 2 stroke Merc.). It was up on plane in seconds as usual and cruised at 3100 in the rough chop. Fortunately it was a balmy 57 degrees to boot. The weight of the kicker, bracket, 3 gal.gas tank, second battery, 27 gal. Pate and pail of lead downrigger balls didn't seem to produce any ill handling charateristics or listing problems. As I motored out to sea, my wife observed the boat actually leaning to the port side if anything. I don't go an ounce over 220, so it certainly couldn't have been that factor, ha. All in all, the kicker and mount work great. The T9.9 sure is smooth and quiet. It doesn't bounce at all when under power with the main and kicker tilted up. I am using the EZ steer system, which is also a very nice product. Thats it for today, have a nice night!
Rich M	posted 05-24-2005 10:52 PM ET (US) MantyMonty, Thanks so much for the update. I've followed your install with great interest from the start and I'm very enthusiastic about your results. Congrats on a job well done. I run my 170 in the Grand Traverse bays of Lake Michigan and in the lower chain running riggers for salmon and lakers. Looks like a kicker with power tilt is on the to-do list for next season.
MantyMonty	posted 05-24-2005 11:06 PM ET (US) Rich M, What method do you use to mount your downriggers? I had a board across the back last season, this year I am going to use rail mounts, unless something better comes along.
walf	posted 05-25-2005 11:27 AM ET (US) any problem connecting the garmin gps to a standard horizon phantom? I am going to buy the same products for my new 170 montauk.
MantyMonty	posted 05-25-2005 08:24 PM ET (US) No problems with the pair. I had an Icom 502 last season, and I could not squelch out the interference from the Garmin 188C. With the Garmin off, the radio was crystal clear, as soon as the Garmin was powered up, the radio was rendered useless. The Phantom is a nice setup due to it's ease of removal if needed at the end of the day. The idea of having the rest of the radio out of the elements is a good thing too. Have a good night.
Rich M	posted 05-25-2005 08:27 PM ET (US) Manty, I use Cannon rail mounts, they work perfectly and I drag 13lb pancakes to 200'+ on 4' booms.
MantyMonty	posted 05-25-2005 08:38 PM ET (US) Forgot to mention the performance of the T9.9 Yamaha. I took her out for a trial run today in Lake Michigan with my son. The seas were relatively calm and water temp was 46 degrees. The Yamaha T9.9 EXH2 pushes the boat anywhere from 1 mph to 6.5 mph according to the GPS. The motor is barely audible when at idle. This motor is going to be great for slow trolling. The motor does not move on the CMC bracket when under way with the 90 Merc. Top speed with the 90 2 stroke with the added weight is 40.1 mph per the GPS. Without the 9.9 mounted, top speed was 43 or 44 mph.
Divedog	posted 05-26-2005 10:19 AM ET (US) MantyMonty- If you get a chance, I'd love to see some pictures with the motor installed. Happy Fishing.
MantyMonty	posted 06-02-2005 09:04 PM ET (US) Divedog, I finally took a couple of pictures of the Yamaha kicker while out on Lake Michigan yesterday. [url] http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/teedertodder4u/detail?.dir=/ffc8&.dnm=136c.jpg&.src=ph[/url] My son and I went out to wet a few lines. We had to go out 7.4 miles to get to 164 feet, which still proved to be to close-in. Others were heading out to 300+ feet. That was a little too far for our time frame and safety factor. As it was, the wind kicked up a little on the way in from 7.4 miles. The motor is an excellent troller and unbelievably easy to operate and start. Haven't hardly noticed any gas gone from the 6 gal can yet. It's fuel efficiency is great. The EZ steer system works good too. Any other questions let me know. I am having the bottom barrier coated and VC17 paint put on next week. The final finish is going to be a racing finish that the local sailing club strives for on thier rigs. Have a great night.
MantyMonty	posted 06-02-2005 09:41 PM ET (US) Sorry, the hyper didn't work, must be off. The pictures are in the same folder as I have listed in the first posting for this subject.
Divedog	posted 06-03-2005 01:55 PM ET (US) Thanks for sharing your pictures. Great setup! I just finished my last major boat project, short of a kicker motor. Last weekend I installed a Jensen CD player and four Infinity speakers. Sounds fantastic. The weekend before that I installed an Icom VHF and two Shakespeare antennas. I'm also running a Scotty downrigger set up similar to yours.
erik selis	posted 06-03-2005 02:57 PM ET (US) Your kicker setup looks great! It's exactly what I'm planning to do. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Erik
timsr	posted 06-03-2005 07:30 PM ET (US) MantMonty your set up looks great. I was wondering if you or anyone else have considered or rigged up the main gas line so that it can feed both the main engine and the kicker through some type of y-fitting. Thanks
MantyMonty	posted 06-03-2005 11:24 PM ET (US) I considered plumbing the kicker into the Pate 27 tank, but after numerous posts about engine failure, it was mentioned that 90 some percent of engine failures are fuel related. I work in the nuclear industry, and independent and redundant backup systems has been engrained in my head over the last 23 years. The 6 gal. gas tank and bucket of lead downrigger balls gives ballast to the port side to balancs out the 112 lb. Yamaha. The 9.9 also has it's independent battery for starting functions in the CC. Have a nice night and weekend.
wywhaler	posted 02-10-2007 04:48 PM ET (US) Manty Monty: I'm going to put the PT-35 on my new 170 Montauk and I'm wondering if any or all of the VIN# on the starboard transom is covered up by the bracket? I'm concerned about this with regard to law enforcement. I'm not eager to have to take the whole thing off, so they can verify the number. My thinking is; that I might sort of route out a little window in the Starboard to look through to see the VIN#. How's the Starboard holding up? Ron
MantyMonty	posted 02-11-2007 07:33 PM ET (US) The board looks like the day I put it on. I had thoughts of doing a window idea too, but I never did it. It does cover the number up. I am not near my boat now in winter, but I was thinking there is a tag on the center console with the number on it too, maybe I am all wet too. It seems to me I remember a tag there, but maybe not. The unit sure is a nice solid bracket and shows absolutely no signs of wear or leakage of any sort.
wywhaler	posted 02-11-2007 10:26 PM ET (US) Glad to hear that the Starboard is holding up. I bought a 12" x 12" piece 1 1/2 in thick. Man that stuff is expensive. I'll check with Whaler customer service to see if the HIN number is also located somewhere else. When I find out, one way or another, I'll post it here. I'm putting a Honda 9.9 as a kicker and I'm hoping it turns out as well as yours. Same frame and weight as the 8 hp, so I opted for the extra 2 horses. The Montauk is down at my son's place in Colorado, so when we start putting the accessories on I'll try to come up with a way to view that HIN with the bracket on, in case Whaler say's that's the only place it's located. Ron
wywhaler	posted 02-11-2007 10:41 PM ET (US) Forgot to mention that when I asked Whaler customer service if it would be OK to mount a kicker on the starboard transom, they referred me to your pictures as the way I should go about it. Ron
wywhaler	posted 02-11-2007 11:03 PM ET (US) Been looking at the PT-35 bracket, as it's still sitting here waiting to be installed. The side that mounts toward the transom has a 1 3/4 in opening in the center running vertically almost the entire length of the plate. While a 1 3/4 in opening might not be enough to read the HIM, I'm thinking that if I route out the Starboard window 30 degrees to the left and right of straight ahead, the whole number should be visable when the assembly is in the up position. Maybe you could do the same with it already mounted, if you need to. Ron
MantyMonty	posted 02-11-2007 11:13 PM ET (US) Sounds like something to look into this spring. I haven't been by my boat in a while due to it being in storage for the winter. I know the area on the bracket you are refering to though. Thats nice Whaler people watch this forum for information for customer relations. There are a lot of interesting modification ideas from the vast diversity of whaler owners on this forum. Cudos to us I guess!
wywhaler	posted 02-12-2007 12:11 AM ET (US) What I asked Whaler customer service was whether or not mounting the kicker to the starboard transom would affect the hull warranty. They said it would not affect the hull warranty if it was bolted to the transom and the holes were properly sealed. I suppose any good bracket, bolted to the transom, would be OK. They included a link to your photos. Ron
wywhaler	posted 02-12-2007 12:25 AM ET (US) What Whaler customer service actually said was not just bolted but that the bracket needs to be properly thru-bolted. Ron
wywhaler	posted 02-12-2007 07:59 PM ET (US) The word from Whaler customer service is that the "hidden" hull id number is located under the center console on the raised part, starboard side. Ron
wywhaler	posted 02-15-2007 04:19 AM ET (US) MantyMonty Noticed the modified bolt placement on the transom. I'm going to do something similar, but maybe six bolts. When you were figuring the vertical measurements, did you used the level of the antiventilation plate of the main engine as a guide for where the antiventilation plate on the kicker should be? Looks like the HIN is positioned more toward the outside of the transom, so maybe a window coming in from the right side might work. Ron
MantyMonty	posted 02-17-2007 11:55 AM ET (US) I made sure the CMC tilt bracket would operate correctly over the top of the transom. Then I held the motor on the bracket and operated the tilt to make sure the motor couling would clear the rubrail. Then I looked to see where the cav plate and water inlet holes were on the kicker. That is why I use a 25" shaft kicker. That put it at the perfect height.
wywhaler	posted 02-17-2007 05:07 PM ET (US) Sounds like the way to go. How close to not clearing the rubrail for the PT-35 or the engine cowling? Believe the shaft on the Honda BF9.9D is 22.2 in. Did you run into any unusual issues during installation? Ron
MantyMonty	posted 02-17-2007 06:07 PM ET (US) You can see in the pictures how the top of the metal comes to the rubrail height. Just temp power up the CMC bracket and flip the switch, be careful of your fingers though, and set the height of the bracket on the transom. No surprises on this mod. Measure three times and drill once. Make sure you countersink the holes nicely to prevent any spidering in the gel coat.
wywhaler	posted 02-17-2007 11:42 PM ET (US) Thanks for all the info. I'm finding your pictures to be a real resource. Looking from the port side, the front of the cowling on the Honda lines up with the rear edge of the mounting bracket on the engine. That puts the rear engine mounting plate of the PT-35 in line with the front of the cowl. I think that's a little farther back than the Yamaha. Also, the tiller is located above the lower edge of the cowling, so I'm thinking it's not going to be a problem. I'm not sure that I'll try to make the rubrail cut in the Starboard because I'll probably mess it up and I don't think the overlapping piece contributes much to the strength overall. From the pictures, it looks like the Yamaha powerhead sits up a bit higher from the mounting clamps than does the Honda. The CMC book recommends mounting the bracket with 1 inch of the top of the front plate above the transom. I'm pretty sure the 22.2 shaft length will work but I might have to mount the bracket a little lower. Might have to use some extra bolts. Is that part of the transom solid fibreglass with wood, is it part foam? What is the overall height of the Yamaha? The Honda is 48.6 inches. Might give me an idea of how much adjusting I'm going to have to do. Thanks for your help Ron
MantyMonty	posted 02-18-2007 07:34 PM ET (US) It seems to me I had wood coming out with the drill bit on all four holes. I do know that when acorn nuts were tightened up, there was never any compression of the gel material. It was real solid. I do not have access to my boat or motor until late spring, so Icannot furnish any measurements, sorry. Have a good weekend.