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  170 - Winterization Help

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Author Topic:   170 - Winterization Help
jmontani posted 11-03-2005 07:47 PM ET (US)   Profile for jmontani  
I am new to large ourboards and need some help on the winterization.

I am on Lake Texoma (1hr North of Dallas, TX), where we can use our boats all year. (We can get a 65 degree day in Jan more often than a 2 day freeze.)

I keep my Montauk on a hydro-hoist. The engine is always stored in the trim fully down position so the water can drain out of the engine. The hoist is large enough to keep the engine fully out of the water.

I was planning on keeping the fuel tank and 2-cycle oil topped off to keep condensation out. Is there anything else I should be looking to do on a 90hp 2 stroke saltwater engine?

On my engine for the sailboat, I use a heater/raw water side anti-freeze, but I am not sure what needs to be done on the Whaler. I went through the books and it looked like it was for a "Hard Winter" storage.

I want to do enough to protect the engine so I can sleep at night but would still like to use the boat on those 65 degree days.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jack

rbruce posted 11-03-2005 08:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for rbruce  Send Email to rbruce     
You should at least perform the annual L/U oil change and impeller change and run Mercury Fuel Stabilizer and Conditioner in the correct proportion of 1 oz per 6 gallons of fuel through the system to prevent water condensation from fouling your gasoline.
sosmerc posted 11-04-2005 12:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for sosmerc  Send Email to sosmerc     
I agree...use a good fuel stabilizer like Sta-Bil, or StarTron.
On the standard 2 stroke I would also recommend flushing the engine on a seperate fuel mix that is stabilized AND has a 50:1 oil mix in it...this, combined with your oil injection, will give you an extra measure of protection, yet you can still fire the engine up and go with your regular boat tank whenever you like. Change your gear oil at least annually along with your fuel filter. Lube your steering cable and hit all the engine zircs at least annually.
rbruce posted 11-04-2005 07:56 AM ET (US)     Profile for rbruce  Send Email to rbruce     
Another thing, if the boat and motor are going to be left alone for more than three months I would perform the following:

1. Start the motor with the lower unit submerged,
2. Disconnect the fuel line to drain fuel from the carburettors,
3. Wait until the engine is about to quit this usually happens when it starts to race and spray fogging oil such as Mercury Storage Seal through one carburetor until the engine quits.
4. Wax the motor and lower unit
5. Replace the L/U oil once a year or less if the motor is used commercially.

I wouldn't throw foggin oil inside the combustion chamber (by removing the spark plugs) because the fogging oil coats the inside of the motor and the cylinders also.

Regards,

RBruce

jmontani posted 11-07-2005 10:05 AM ET (US)     Profile for jmontani    
Thanks for all the help.
Chuck Tribolet posted 11-07-2005 05:00 PM ET (US)     Profile for Chuck Tribolet  Send Email to Chuck Tribolet     
Why only fog through one carb?


Chuck

rbruce posted 11-11-2005 11:39 PM ET (US)     Profile for rbruce  Send Email to rbruce     
Chuck: My mistake, through all the carburetors as each primary compression chamber is isolated by a worm gasket. Each has to be protected and winterized.
high sierra posted 11-12-2005 01:06 AM ET (US)     Profile for high sierra  Send Email to high sierra     
What's a worm gasket? high sierra

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