Moderated Discussion Areas
  ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
  DAUNTLESS 16: Planing Problems priot to 2002

Post New Topic  Post Reply
search | FAQ | profile | register | author help

Author Topic:   DAUNTLESS 16: Planing Problems priot to 2002
griffin99 posted 01-26-2006 10:10 PM ET (US)   Profile for griffin99   Send Email to griffin99  
I know that there has been a lot of talk on this forum regarding planing problems and porpoising in the DAUNTLESS 16. I am looking to buy a Dauntless 16, and I am wondering if it is worth it to pay up for a 2002 model, the first year they altered the rear transom to help with these problems. Thanks. Brian
bspencer posted 01-27-2006 05:36 PM ET (US)     Profile for bspencer  Send Email to bspencer     

I can't speak to the 2002 or later models, but I have an 2001 and don't have any real problems. Guess I'm just used to it. I did add a hydrofoil to the lower unit and it gets on plane much quicker. Its more of a problem in the ocean when I have a kicker mounted on the stern. Try to get one with the 115HP engine rather than the 90HP that I have, the boat feels under powered.


cmarques posted 01-27-2006 05:44 PM ET (US)     Profile for cmarques  Send Email to cmarques     
Some 2002's still have the notched transom (early ones like mine). I added a doel fin and a stainless prop to my 90 Merc and planes pretty good, never compared to a newer model so I don't know if there's much difference.


Marlin posted 01-27-2006 08:48 PM ET (US)     Profile for Marlin  Send Email to Marlin     
I'm the opposite of Chris, I have a 2003 model but have never been aboard an earlier one with the notch. I have doubts that it makes much of a difference to the handling of the boat when planed off. At rest, however, there's the better part of a cubic foot of hull missing down there, reducing the stern bouyancy by some 50 pounds. That might be a problem with the heavier four-stroke motors.

In my opinion, the boat needs a hydrofoil anyway to tame its tendency to porpoise and to give sufficient bow-down trim for good handling in choppy water. That, I think, is just a fact of life with a beamy, heavy boat with a short waterline.


RogerH posted 01-31-2006 03:26 PM ET (US)     Profile for RogerH  Send Email to RogerH     
I have a 2001 16 ft Dauntless w/ a 115 HP Yamaha and the notched transom. I had considerable difficulty getting on plane quickly after breaking in the engine. Elevation was a significant contributor to the problem (7700 ft) and the original engine controller wasn't optimized for the elevation. My dealer arranged for Yamaha to reprogram a controller, air ship it from Japan, and then drove about 200 miles and cross the continental divide 3 times to install it two days later while the boat was sitting in the slip -- I like my dealer a lot. The new controller helped a lot.

But performance still suffered, so I added a hydrofoil fin to the lower unit, as often discussed on this site. The improvement was dramatic. The boat gets on plane much faster and I can maintain plane at a lower speed than before.

The next fall while the boat was in Denver for servicing, the dealer offered to remove the transom notch because performance was still sub par. His glass guy did an excellent job -- I can't identify any seams where the notch was covered over. I wasn't charged for the de-notching and I assumed it was covered at BW's expense but I never ask the dealer if this was the case. The de-notching had little affect on time to plane or top end but the boat seems to wander a little at low speeds -- it doesn't seem to track as well at idle but has no affect on plane.

The only significant boost in performance came from the hydrofoil. The boat is still slower than most reports on this site. By myself (I'm a big guy), way too much fishing gear, downriggers, etc., a 2.5 hp kicker on the transom, and 75 lbs of sand (plus the anchor and chain) in the anchor locker to counterbalance the kicker, my top end is 33 mph. The kids complained so much about the Dauntless as a ski boat, we bought a Chapparal, which means I no longer have to share with them. I've wanted to test the boat at a lower elevations but so far have only had it at a higher lake (9800 ft), where performance is somewhat lower than on Blue Mesa.

Love the boat, but hate the affects of elevation. Not clear to me the notch has much affect once a hyrofoil is in place. Hope this helps.


Boboe posted 02-05-2006 08:48 AM ET (US)     Profile for Boboe  Send Email to Boboe     
I have the 2004 with a 90 2 stroke. I have not experienced any porpoising problems and pleased with the boats ability to get quickly on plane. I fish the ocean and always in some sort of chop. The best speed I've clocked to-date is 36 mph. That said, my dealer told me I needed a new powerhead after just one year of use. I was considering getting the 4 stroke instead of repairing the 2 stroke and he told me to just be sure to get the hydrofoils if I go that route. I ended up repairing the 2 stroke as it was all under warrenty. The whole reason I went with the 2 stroke 90 in the first place was price and weight. The reasons to go with a 4 are noise, smoke and gas milage. You can't even tell those motors are running.

If I were to do it all over again, I'd go with the 4 stroke. I do not water ski so speed is not a big issue but noise and smoke are.

As for the notch, I suspect it hurts somewhat but don't think it could make that big of a difference. From what I've heard, the hydrofoil takes care of the issue. Although when your spending that kind of money, you want it right....and therefore, I personally, would wait for one without the notch.

RLSmith posted 02-07-2006 10:16 PM ET (US)     Profile for RLSmith  Send Email to RLSmith     
Question for RogerH about the "de-notching". How did the dealer handle the drain tube that exits at the front of the notch, up inside the notch? Did he extend the tube all the way to the transom? That would increase the length of the tube about a foot. Will that cause any maintenance problems down the road?
RogerH posted 02-08-2006 01:50 PM ET (US)     Profile for RogerH  Send Email to RogerH     
I was told by the dealer that filling in the notch was done by inserting a fiberglass unit (bottom section, back/transom section, and side sections, then filling in the seams and gelcoat. I now have two drain hole, one accessable from inside the boat and one on the transom but there is no tube connecting them. Water from the bilge area drains through the forward drain hole, passes through the cavity where the notch used to be, and exits the drain hole in the transom. I use both plugs and pull the transom plug first (no water in the cavity so far), then the inner plug to drain about a quart of water that collects forward of the bilge and only drains back when the boat is on the ramp.

The dealer & I thought it better to not to use a connecting tube, as it would be difficult to repair a tube down the road and any leakage around the tube fittings would collect in the cavity and be impossible to remove. Your question piques my interest and next time I get a chance I'm going to shine a light through the inner hole and try to examine the cavity through the transom hole. Unfortunately, the boat is currently buried in a snow bank that won't melt until ice is going off the near by lakes, which won't happen until late April to early May. If you're still interested then, I'll let you know what I see.


skred posted 02-21-2006 05:10 PM ET (US)     Profile for skred  Send Email to skred     
I owned a 1999 16 Dauntless with the notch, and I had the planing/porpoising syndromes. I installed the Tigershark VG hydrofoil on the 90 HOnda, and the problems completely disappeared.

Post New Topic  Post Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | RETURN to ContinuousWave Top Page

Powered by: Ultimate Bulletin Board, Freeware Version 2000
Purchase our Licensed Version- which adds many more features!
© Infopop Corporation (formerly Madrona Park, Inc.), 1998 - 2000.