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Author Topic:   Bow mount Trolling motor on 170

Aldog posted 04-19-2006 09:08 PM ET (US)
I agree with posts on the "rigging tube to bow" thread that the Minn Kota is an excellent trolling motor. My question is specific about 24v motors, Is there room for an additional battery? I am picking my boat up next weekend and have not adequately surveyed for the extra battery. I seem to remember "Free Spirit" having two batteries, just curious what other guys have done.
mojipa posted 04-19-2006 10:36 PM ET (US)
I have 2 batteries for my Minn Kota motor as well as the charger and the main battery inside the console area. It is pretty tight but worth the inconvenience. I would highly recommend a 24 volt system for a Montauk. I am thrilled with the autopilot 70 lb thrust model I bought. I got 2 Trojan AGM
batteries and the Minn Kota 230 charger.
timsr posted 04-21-2006 06:46 PM ET (US)
I have the 55# Minn Kota with Auto-Pilot and co-pilot on my 170. I have been happy with the 55# for trolling around my local lakes.
I have a group 27 battery and a Minn Kota battery charger in the console.
Tim
Aldog posted 05-01-2006 04:20 PM ET (US)
Thanks for the replies. I will probably go with the Riptide 24v, if I can make it all fit. On my 17 Classic I used the slide bracket I believe it to have been pilot drilled and screwed dirctly into the wood backing provided by whaler for mounting. There may have been anchors but I dont think so.
I see there is wood again in this area on the 170, questions:
which bracket and then which anchoring system did you guys use?
Also I am curious (and may start a new thread)has anyone put light inside the console to illuminate the interior of the consloe for those after dark battery and wiring issues that always seem to happen?
mojipa posted 05-01-2006 11:34 PM ET (US)
I used the Minn kota Adapter Plate for the Composite Quick Release Bracket (RTA-17) It stuck out a little from the bow , so I had my installer bevel the edge to be flush with the bow rail. The only problem Ive had , is not being able to raise up the motor to a higher position for extremely shallow spots due to the bow rail being in the way. Thats only in less than 2 feet of water though. The shaft I have is 52 in.
A small inconveniece for a great setup. I like the bow rail for the kids, so its no worries. I can troll for as long as I want to stay on the water in 1 day. Its a great motor.
fno posted 05-01-2006 11:41 PM ET (US)
Go to Whaler Parts.Com and download the backer diagrams from there.
Aldog posted 05-21-2006 04:20 PM ET (US)
I am having my trolling motor installed right after Memorial day. I have decided on the Riptide series 24v. My installer is not sure the rail won't need to be cut. I have no interest in doing that. I'd like to hear for sure from those that did not do that, and maybe see photos if possible.
Help.
Marsh posted 05-22-2006 08:34 PM ET (US)
2004 Montauk 170 owner here...I have 24v Minn=Kota Rip Tide Co-pilot, auto pilot bow mount troller. No cutting of rails was needed. I used the slider mount available from Cabelas and others, and can raise troller for skinny water, no problem with bow rail at all. Classic bow rails should be less of a problem. Post-classic rails are an inferior design, IMHO, due to their positioning relative to the deck. I have my two group 24 batts in my console, along with main starter battery, for a total of three batteries in the console. Also in the console: 2 rainsuits, tool kit, flares, first aid kit, camera, sun screen, bug spray, VHF radio, ball caps, spare glasses, battery charger, two PFDs, and assorted maps and charts. And I'm sure I overlooked a few things. It's amazing how much the console can store when necessary. And even when it's not necessary. I wired my troller with 6 ga. wire from a hvy duty jumper cable set, with alligator clips removed. There's probably a better source for better cable, but these were $14.99 from Wal=Mart. Cheap. Easy.
Email me if you want pics.
Marsh
Aldog posted 05-24-2006 10:14 AM ET (US)
Marsh I sent you an email. A photo would be great. Thanks for the information.
timsr posted 05-24-2006 07:24 PM ET (US)
Aldog check your e-mail I sent you some pictures of my installation. I used an extra piece of staboard to raise the mounting bracket above the rubrail.
Tim
Aldog posted 05-24-2006 07:49 PM ET (US)
Looks great. Thanks so much. That'll save me lots of grief.

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Author	Topic: Bow mount Trolling motor on 170
Aldog	posted 04-19-2006 09:08 PM ET (US) I agree with posts on the "rigging tube to bow" thread that the Minn Kota is an excellent trolling motor. My question is specific about 24v motors, Is there room for an additional battery? I am picking my boat up next weekend and have not adequately surveyed for the extra battery. I seem to remember "Free Spirit" having two batteries, just curious what other guys have done.
mojipa	posted 04-19-2006 10:36 PM ET (US) I have 2 batteries for my Minn Kota motor as well as the charger and the main battery inside the console area. It is pretty tight but worth the inconvenience. I would highly recommend a 24 volt system for a Montauk. I am thrilled with the autopilot 70 lb thrust model I bought. I got 2 Trojan AGM batteries and the Minn Kota 230 charger.
timsr	posted 04-21-2006 06:46 PM ET (US) I have the 55# Minn Kota with Auto-Pilot and co-pilot on my 170. I have been happy with the 55# for trolling around my local lakes. I have a group 27 battery and a Minn Kota battery charger in the console. Tim
Aldog	posted 05-01-2006 04:20 PM ET (US) Thanks for the replies. I will probably go with the Riptide 24v, if I can make it all fit. On my 17 Classic I used the slide bracket I believe it to have been pilot drilled and screwed dirctly into the wood backing provided by whaler for mounting. There may have been anchors but I dont think so. I see there is wood again in this area on the 170, questions: which bracket and then which anchoring system did you guys use? Also I am curious (and may start a new thread)has anyone put light inside the console to illuminate the interior of the consloe for those after dark battery and wiring issues that always seem to happen?
mojipa	posted 05-01-2006 11:34 PM ET (US) I used the Minn kota Adapter Plate for the Composite Quick Release Bracket (RTA-17) It stuck out a little from the bow , so I had my installer bevel the edge to be flush with the bow rail. The only problem Ive had , is not being able to raise up the motor to a higher position for extremely shallow spots due to the bow rail being in the way. Thats only in less than 2 feet of water though. The shaft I have is 52 in. A small inconveniece for a great setup. I like the bow rail for the kids, so its no worries. I can troll for as long as I want to stay on the water in 1 day. Its a great motor.
fno	posted 05-01-2006 11:41 PM ET (US) Go to Whaler Parts.Com and download the backer diagrams from there.
Aldog	posted 05-21-2006 04:20 PM ET (US) I am having my trolling motor installed right after Memorial day. I have decided on the Riptide series 24v. My installer is not sure the rail won't need to be cut. I have no interest in doing that. I'd like to hear for sure from those that did not do that, and maybe see photos if possible. Help.
Marsh	posted 05-22-2006 08:34 PM ET (US) 2004 Montauk 170 owner here...I have 24v Minn=Kota Rip Tide Co-pilot, auto pilot bow mount troller. No cutting of rails was needed. I used the slider mount available from Cabelas and others, and can raise troller for skinny water, no problem with bow rail at all. Classic bow rails should be less of a problem. Post-classic rails are an inferior design, IMHO, due to their positioning relative to the deck. I have my two group 24 batts in my console, along with main starter battery, for a total of three batteries in the console. Also in the console: 2 rainsuits, tool kit, flares, first aid kit, camera, sun screen, bug spray, VHF radio, ball caps, spare glasses, battery charger, two PFDs, and assorted maps and charts. And I'm sure I overlooked a few things. It's amazing how much the console can store when necessary. And even when it's not necessary. I wired my troller with 6 ga. wire from a hvy duty jumper cable set, with alligator clips removed. There's probably a better source for better cable, but these were $14.99 from Wal=Mart. Cheap. Easy. Email me if you want pics. Marsh
Aldog	posted 05-24-2006 10:14 AM ET (US) Marsh I sent you an email. A photo would be great. Thanks for the information.
timsr	posted 05-24-2006 07:24 PM ET (US) Aldog check your e-mail I sent you some pictures of my installation. I used an extra piece of staboard to raise the mounting bracket above the rubrail. Tim
Aldog	posted 05-24-2006 07:49 PM ET (US) Looks great. Thanks so much. That'll save me lots of grief.