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ContinuousWave: Post-Classic Whalers
1995 Outrage 24 Fuel Tank Leak
|Author||Topic: 1995 Outrage 24 Fuel Tank Leak|
posted 04-06-2007 07:25 PM ET (US)
It appears [my 1995 Outrage 24 has] a fuel leak. Where is the area this is most likely to occur? What are the natural steps to take to repair or replace? Thanks in advance for any help.
posted 04-07-2007 09:49 AM ET (US)
Does your boat have an aluminum fuel tank or a polypropylene fuel tank?
posted 04-07-2007 06:56 PM ET (US)
It's an aluminum tank, 196 gals.
Really wondering how much of the job that can be done with a shadetree mentality?
I was considering removing the center deck, and had a question about the area around the center console. Actually, I have a million questions, but will take baby steps.
Does the entire center console need to be removed, or can you "slide" the deck back from under it in order to remove the tank. It also appears you need to remove the rear deck around the bilge area to remove the tank.
What is the best replacement material, if I have a choice.
Thanks for any help.
posted 04-08-2007 02:48 AM ET (US)
I would check that the fuel sending unit, the fill and vent hoses, and that fuel lines aren't leaking before I start tearing up the deck.
The fill and vent lines are accesible from a deck plate inside the console. The sending unit is accesible from the deck plate in front of the leaning post. Then main fuel line and fitting/ anti siphon valve is under the deck plate behind the leaning post or chairs.
If everything looks ok I would cap all of the fiitings off and put a few psi of air pressure in the tank with a Mity Vac and see if the tank holds pressure.
If you determine that the tank is in fact leaking then your gonna have to.
1. Remove the console and T-top.
My guess is that the tank was made by Florida Marine tanks so they could possible make you another one.
You might be able to feel around under the aft section of the tank via access through the splashwell.
posted 04-08-2007 11:20 AM ET (US)
Thanks for the reply. Not what I wanted to hear, but at least I know what I'm in for.
I've checked the lines in, and with only 65 gals in the tank and it just sitting and leaking, I have to believe it's from the bottom.
I removed all the fuel and I'm getting ready to dive in. Not sure if I want to order the same tank again though. May want to modify the design to allow for better water circulation around the outside to keep this from happening again. David Pascoe has an interesting method that I may try. Seems to me that a slightly smaller duplicate of the same tank may be an answer, using Pascoes ideas to drain water away from the tank, the theory seems reasonable.
Anyone have any suggestions/thoughts?
posted 04-09-2007 04:38 PM ET (US)
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your fuel tank. I too have a 24' Outrage though mine is a 1994. I would be interested in knowing how you think any water may have been trapped in the tank cavity? My boat has the rear of the tank exposed to the bilge area. From what I can tell, any water that could possibly get into the tank area would drain directly to the bilge, Does your tank have the same installation as I discribe? Do you think your tank rotted from the inside out? I would have thought a properly installed tank should last longer then 12yrs, I'm sure you did too... Good luck with your job, keep us updated on your progress and any challenges you have. I might have the same job upcoming and would be interested in the tank you choose as a replacement. Let me know if I can be of any help.
posted 04-09-2007 08:12 PM ET (US)
I believe my problem is the same as yours. The problem could exist in the bilge where you describe, but that doesn't mean it could happen anywhere water could be standing.
I'm contemplating a couple of things right now. One is a tank from the original manufacturer in Flordia, another is a duplicate tank built in California (where I live) and another is one that I am researching to see if it is a viable alternative.
There is a local shop here that has been doing a process to restore old automotive gas tanks for many years. They would actually repair the existing tank. They cut the original tank open and sandblast inside and out, then reweld the tank (replacing or patching any areas that can't be blasted clean) and then coating with some sort of coating that they claim is better than the stuff they use in aircraft tanks, then baking the finish on.
The biggest issue so far is that the tank can only be 6' in order to fit in the blaster and oven. That would mean lopping off 2' of tank in order for it to fit. Not a problem in my case, because I don't think it will effect the range that I feel comfortable taking a 24' boat to.
The reason I am contemplating this process, is that it would eliminate the problem of water intrustion. An added bonus is it would cost less than $400, but I won't use the expense as an issue, I just want it done right this time. I agree that 12 years isn't much time for a tank, but Oh well.
I will take pics of the process and give progress reports once I start the process. I hope that this will help future owners with the problem.
posted 04-09-2007 08:23 PM ET (US)
Sorry I forgot to address a couple of your other questions.
I believe the intrustion is from the outside in. I just recently had an issue with condensation in the tank that I believe was caused by this intrusion. The leaning post on our boat has the factory bait tank installed in it, and it is rather loose and sloppy in terms of sealing water out. The water can splash down directly on the tank. It really isn't a problem if the water is allowed to drain off the tank, but the design is such that water can be trapped anywhere underneath the tank, or on the sides where the foam is.
This is from what I have read on the subject and really I have no idea as yet. I'll let you know when I find the area.
posted 04-10-2007 12:42 PM ET (US)
Years ago I shopped the market and recall that Wahoo boats (which were built in Virginia and eventually bought out by the folks that now own BW) boasted a superior design in that they installed drain lines in the bilge area which they claimed would eliminate any water intrusion problems, presumably on the belief that it is impossible to eliminate water intrusion. They used a 1" or so perforated flexible tube (similar in design to the much large landscape drains we are all familiar with) and drained to a common sump area. It seems to me a good idea, but in your case I believe would also require taking out more foam (in order to get access to the bottom of the bilge) than you might otherwise. I am not familiar with the task, and would love to know what the experts on this site think. I am in the market for a similar model/year BW, so I think there are a lot of us who could benefit from their comments.
posted 04-12-2007 07:29 PM ET (US)
I have a 98' 17' OutrageII that had a tank leak. I ended up replacing the tank. Florida Marine Tank built the original so I went to them for the replacement. I opted to replace the standard tank with one made of 3/16" instead of 1/8". They said I lost 2 gals. capacity and gained 40 lbs in weight. I'll buy the increase in weight but I can't believe 1/16" would cost a 2 gal. lose of capacity. Anyway I did the job myself. I have a T-Top and after removing the 40 or so screws holding the deck plate/fuel tank cover in place. I leaned the the whole thing console, T-Top and deck plate forward on the bow rail. Cut all the foam holding the tank in place away and remove the four brackets that hold the tank down. Make sure the tank is empty and lift it out. This may not be possible for you because my take was 54 gals. and I had to have help to get it up and out. The reason for the leak was obvious after removing the tank. It had corrosion on the bottom down the center of the vee bottom.
posted 04-30-2007 11:36 PM ET (US)
How's the project going?
posted 07-20-2007 07:46 PM ET (US)
Sorry for the late reply. Been a looooong time since the dismantling etc. of this project due to a lot of whatever.
I have the tank removed and being repaired. The consideration for repair was made when I found that the original tank makers said that they would warranty the tank for one (1) year for approx. $2200+ delivered. I also had local quotes for around $1500 to duplicate that I have to check on the warranty, but if it is the same, I don't think so. The warranty from the tank repair company is for life (there' not mine, I'm sure). They are a reputable company that has been in business forever.
I did not want the same situation, so I decided to try a proven, patented method I had heard about some years ago, with the local hot rod guys using a local company to repair their gas tanks. The process involves cleaning, sandblasting inside and out (baffles considered), coating (patented process), baking, then cleaning again. The surfaces are protected from any liquid intrusion, and can be foamed in if you wish. The only real potential problem was that the can only do a tank up to 6' and ours is 8'. We deiced to have the tank split in half and have the advantage of two smaller 90 gal. tanks. Especially with having to keep the tank full to prevent condensation. Thought process was to reduce weight.
I will post pics of the project soon. Although it has taken a long time, the actual time is not bad at all.
posted 07-20-2007 07:48 PM ET (US)
Forgot to mention that the repair cost is $900 complete. That includes new panels where nessary, and all the fittings.
posted 07-21-2007 11:39 PM ET (US)
jim, sounds like a good deal. I'm in the process of replacing the fuel tank on my boat(87 gallon) I paid about what you did for a new tank+ delivery(still waiting). I considered repairing it, didn't here of any one doing it the way you described.
posted 07-22-2007 07:29 AM ET (US)
Here is a link to the local (California) shop that did my tank. http://mattsonsradiator.com. The company that has the patent is back east. I'll try to find their link and post it. They have companies statewide that use their process. Mattons will also give you contact info.
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