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Author Topic:   Removing old registration numbers

DLee posted 03-13-2008 09:59 PM ET (US)
This is a pretty silly question, but I'm stumped.
I bought my 2003 170 Montauk in November and need to change the registration numbers (stickers) on the bow.
It's been cold and these old numbers are on so tight I can hardly get a fingernail under them. It's as if they were epoxied on. I picked away at one and after fifteen minutes didn't really make any headway. Let's face it, there are a lot of numbers and letters on there. I've got enough career problems.
Any suggestions? It's still cold but I'm chomping at the bit to get out. I'd like to have my numbers in order before I do.
Will there be trouble in Gotham if I take a blow drier out there and try to heat them up? I don't want to hurt the gel coat. Can I hurt the gel coat? Seems like there should be a way to peel them off without scraping.
Thanks, Dennis
jf_halloran posted 03-14-2008 07:45 AM ET (US)
I am having the same problem. I might just wait until it gets a little warmer, then heat them up a little with a blowdryer and scrape them off with a razor blade. I just hope the heat or the razor blade doesn't damage the gelcoat.
DLee posted 03-14-2008 08:52 AM ET (US)
JF, that's my concern exactly.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-14-2008 08:58 AM ET (US)
I have removed numbers in temperatures as low as 35.
Use a hair dryer (low/medium heat only) and a plastic putty knife. The plastic putty knife looks identical in size to a regular putty knife. This tool is better since it will not damage the gel coat.
Heat the number/letter. Start on a corner. Aim the dryer at the corner and knife. Let it warm up. You should feel the corner start to give. Work with the heat and slowly move the hair dryer ahead. Move the knife, repeat. The hairdryer does the work, not you.
Remove the left over glue with Goof Off (hardware store)
CBO
jf_halloran posted 03-14-2008 11:19 AM ET (US)
The plastic putty knife is a great idea- i didn't think of that.
Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-14-2008 12:45 PM ET (US)
I learned it from a CW veteran.
CBO
HuronBob posted 03-14-2008 02:27 PM ET (US)
Cycle guys use dental floss to remove decals...(like when they are repainting a gas tank and want to remove the factory decals) heating doesn't hurt either.
the trick, of course, is you need a convex surface for this to work...
contender posted 03-14-2008 03:23 PM ET (US)
what about spraying the numbers with some type of wd40, acetone, goof off, adhesive remover to soften up the numbers and use the plastic scraper/ (credit card works also)...good luck
Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-14-2008 03:49 PM ET (US)
I just went and registered the boat. The agent laugh at me being so early.
"Heard the forecast he asked me?" "No", I replied. "3" of snow tonight" he said.
In checking my paperwork I see the state registration sticker is now larger and includes the inland river registration. Now I need to remove all the registration and river stickers. Dohh!
CBO

HuronBob posted 03-14-2008 06:53 PM ET (US)
A bit off topic, but sort of humorous..
a few years back I purchased a 12 foot aluminum fishing boat from an elderly neighbor...he had owned it since it was new, nice little boat, used it for years..those darn things last forever!
I had owned it for 4 or 5 years before I noticed that the previous owner had put the registration number on the port side starting at the bow with the first letter, reading left to right... he then went around to the other side and, again, starting at the bow, started again with the first letter in his registration number... which, of course, meant it was backwards..
To the best of my knowledge, this boat went about 20 years with the number on the starboard side backwards, and nobody ever said a word...
Tohsgib posted 03-15-2008 01:04 AM ET (US)
Use a 3m eraser...it is GOD!
DLee posted 03-15-2008 06:02 PM ET (US)
It's amazing what a little warm weather and the right tool will do.
I went out this afternoon with my car's ice scraper (short handle), it started the peeling very nicely so I could grab it with my fingernails. Then I could pull of pretty large segments before the sticker broke. I was able to get the port side clear in probably a half hour or so.
Now there is a serious residue shadow.
I'll try and find the 3M eraser Tohsgib.
It's getting exciting....!
The original Whaler type style was very nice, anyone know where I can find them rather than these big block letters from West Marine?
Moe posted 03-15-2008 07:43 PM ET (US)
We got Janis at MagicBrush to make our registration numbers red and slanted forward at the top like the Whaler logo. Looked nice and went through several vessel safety checks with no grief.
--
Moe

Chuck Tribolet posted 03-15-2008 09:01 PM ET (US)
Moe, it may look nice, but they are supposed to be block
letters.

Chuck
frontier posted 03-15-2008 11:00 PM ET (US)
I use mild heat, and a regular metal sharp one sided razor blade. And to get any remaining glue off, use "Goo Gone Gel" with the razor blade. Metal razor blade is perfectly safe and does a lot better job than plastic (Assuming no operator failure!).
mitch13 posted 03-16-2008 09:45 AM ET (US)
Chuck,
They ARE block letters....just slanted a tad. I have Janis's letters on both my boats. They look MUCH better than I could ever line up those individual letters right.
mitch
Tohsgib posted 03-17-2008 11:21 AM ET (US)
Who says they have to be block? As far as I know as long as they are 3" and clearly visible, you are OK. My boats have Janis' work on them and they are block but slanted. I am just curious as to where you have read they need to be block. Now I understand Cursive won't work but what makes a letter block?
Ridge Runner posted 03-17-2008 01:56 PM ET (US)
If you just want stock numbers and letter, not custom made, Hardline has a nice red and green to match the B/W logo. http://www.boat-registration-numbers.com
Moe posted 03-17-2008 07:55 PM ET (US)
As others have said, they were block (squared off, non-cursive, sans serif), just slanted a bit, italic on the starboard side, reverse italic on the port.
We don't have slants on the registration numbers on our sailboat, but I did get a local sign shop to make them in addition to the boat name graphics. Much easier to install than individual letters and the vinyl matches the boat name.
--
Moe
DLee posted 03-20-2008 01:54 PM ET (US)
OK, I got the letters off of one side and all the residual glue... I think.
I now see discoloration where the old numbers were. Is this old glue residue or a discoloration in the gel coat?
The discoloration is darker than the hull. It's almost the desert tan color of the older hulls. I tried polishing it off and that didn't do anything except make it really smooth and shiny. Maybe I shouldn't have use the wax/polish combo.
Is this darker color glue residue? Does it come off? Or do I just put on the new numbers and hope the old shadows don't show too much? These shadows are pretty subtle but certainly visible if you're looking.
Thanks, Dennis
Casco Bay Outrage posted 03-20-2008 05:38 PM ET (US)
Dennis -
Most likely this is the original color of the gel coat. You may need to go over the area with some Meguires 44 color restorer, 3m Finess-it or similar cleaner ( not a wash or a polish) to blend it in.
It has been protected from the sun for 5 years.
Still cold, rainy and snowy to do mine.

fisherman posted 03-20-2008 05:51 PM ET (US)
The best method for removing old numbers or decals from fibrglass is Oven Cleaner and it will not harm the fibreglass.
For the dark brown residue below following removal use a fine rubbing compound.
Ray
jf_halloran posted 04-07-2008 09:06 AM ET (US)
I just removed all of the old registration numbers on decals from my boat, and this method worked great. I scraped off all I could with a razor blade. Then I used this stuff called M-1 remover (the painter's left a can at my house after painting the outside) and it took all the old glue and everything else off. It worked really good. I do not know if they sell the stuff in stores though.
Tohsgib posted 04-08-2008 01:27 PM ET (US)
You can get it at automotive paint stores.
I am amazed nobody tried the 3m eraser...magic in seconds.

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Author	Topic: Removing old registration numbers
DLee	posted 03-13-2008 09:59 PM ET (US) This is a pretty silly question, but I'm stumped. I bought my 2003 170 Montauk in November and need to change the registration numbers (stickers) on the bow. It's been cold and these old numbers are on so tight I can hardly get a fingernail under them. It's as if they were epoxied on. I picked away at one and after fifteen minutes didn't really make any headway. Let's face it, there are a lot of numbers and letters on there. I've got enough career problems. Any suggestions? It's still cold but I'm chomping at the bit to get out. I'd like to have my numbers in order before I do. Will there be trouble in Gotham if I take a blow drier out there and try to heat them up? I don't want to hurt the gel coat. Can I hurt the gel coat? Seems like there should be a way to peel them off without scraping. Thanks, Dennis
jf_halloran	posted 03-14-2008 07:45 AM ET (US) I am having the same problem. I might just wait until it gets a little warmer, then heat them up a little with a blowdryer and scrape them off with a razor blade. I just hope the heat or the razor blade doesn't damage the gelcoat.
DLee	posted 03-14-2008 08:52 AM ET (US) JF, that's my concern exactly.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 03-14-2008 08:58 AM ET (US) I have removed numbers in temperatures as low as 35. Use a hair dryer (low/medium heat only) and a plastic putty knife. The plastic putty knife looks identical in size to a regular putty knife. This tool is better since it will not damage the gel coat. Heat the number/letter. Start on a corner. Aim the dryer at the corner and knife. Let it warm up. You should feel the corner start to give. Work with the heat and slowly move the hair dryer ahead. Move the knife, repeat. The hairdryer does the work, not you. Remove the left over glue with Goof Off (hardware store) CBO
jf_halloran	posted 03-14-2008 11:19 AM ET (US) The plastic putty knife is a great idea- i didn't think of that.
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 03-14-2008 12:45 PM ET (US) I learned it from a CW veteran. CBO
HuronBob	posted 03-14-2008 02:27 PM ET (US) Cycle guys use dental floss to remove decals...(like when they are repainting a gas tank and want to remove the factory decals) heating doesn't hurt either. the trick, of course, is you need a convex surface for this to work...
contender	posted 03-14-2008 03:23 PM ET (US) what about spraying the numbers with some type of wd40, acetone, goof off, adhesive remover to soften up the numbers and use the plastic scraper/ (credit card works also)...good luck
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 03-14-2008 03:49 PM ET (US) I just went and registered the boat. The agent laugh at me being so early. "Heard the forecast he asked me?" "No", I replied. "3" of snow tonight" he said. In checking my paperwork I see the state registration sticker is now larger and includes the inland river registration. Now I need to remove all the registration and river stickers. Dohh! CBO
HuronBob	posted 03-14-2008 06:53 PM ET (US) A bit off topic, but sort of humorous.. a few years back I purchased a 12 foot aluminum fishing boat from an elderly neighbor...he had owned it since it was new, nice little boat, used it for years..those darn things last forever! I had owned it for 4 or 5 years before I noticed that the previous owner had put the registration number on the port side starting at the bow with the first letter, reading left to right... he then went around to the other side and, again, starting at the bow, started again with the first letter in his registration number... which, of course, meant it was backwards.. To the best of my knowledge, this boat went about 20 years with the number on the starboard side backwards, and nobody ever said a word...
Tohsgib	posted 03-15-2008 01:04 AM ET (US) Use a 3m eraser...it is GOD!
DLee	posted 03-15-2008 06:02 PM ET (US) It's amazing what a little warm weather and the right tool will do. I went out this afternoon with my car's ice scraper (short handle), it started the peeling very nicely so I could grab it with my fingernails. Then I could pull of pretty large segments before the sticker broke. I was able to get the port side clear in probably a half hour or so. Now there is a serious residue shadow. I'll try and find the 3M eraser Tohsgib. It's getting exciting....! The original Whaler type style was very nice, anyone know where I can find them rather than these big block letters from West Marine?
Moe	posted 03-15-2008 07:43 PM ET (US) We got Janis at MagicBrush to make our registration numbers red and slanted forward at the top like the Whaler logo. Looked nice and went through several vessel safety checks with no grief. -- Moe
Chuck Tribolet	posted 03-15-2008 09:01 PM ET (US) Moe, it may look nice, but they are supposed to be block letters. Chuck
frontier	posted 03-15-2008 11:00 PM ET (US) I use mild heat, and a regular metal sharp one sided razor blade. And to get any remaining glue off, use "Goo Gone Gel" with the razor blade. Metal razor blade is perfectly safe and does a lot better job than plastic (Assuming no operator failure!).
mitch13	posted 03-16-2008 09:45 AM ET (US) Chuck, They ARE block letters....just slanted a tad. I have Janis's letters on both my boats. They look MUCH better than I could ever line up those individual letters right. mitch
Tohsgib	posted 03-17-2008 11:21 AM ET (US) Who says they have to be block? As far as I know as long as they are 3" and clearly visible, you are OK. My boats have Janis' work on them and they are block but slanted. I am just curious as to where you have read they need to be block. Now I understand Cursive won't work but what makes a letter block?
Ridge Runner	posted 03-17-2008 01:56 PM ET (US) If you just want stock numbers and letter, not custom made, Hardline has a nice red and green to match the B/W logo. http://www.boat-registration-numbers.com
Moe	posted 03-17-2008 07:55 PM ET (US) As others have said, they were block (squared off, non-cursive, sans serif), just slanted a bit, italic on the starboard side, reverse italic on the port. We don't have slants on the registration numbers on our sailboat, but I did get a local sign shop to make them in addition to the boat name graphics. Much easier to install than individual letters and the vinyl matches the boat name. -- Moe
DLee	posted 03-20-2008 01:54 PM ET (US) OK, I got the letters off of one side and all the residual glue... I think. I now see discoloration where the old numbers were. Is this old glue residue or a discoloration in the gel coat? The discoloration is darker than the hull. It's almost the desert tan color of the older hulls. I tried polishing it off and that didn't do anything except make it really smooth and shiny. Maybe I shouldn't have use the wax/polish combo. Is this darker color glue residue? Does it come off? Or do I just put on the new numbers and hope the old shadows don't show too much? These shadows are pretty subtle but certainly visible if you're looking. Thanks, Dennis
Casco Bay Outrage	posted 03-20-2008 05:38 PM ET (US) Dennis - Most likely this is the original color of the gel coat. You may need to go over the area with some Meguires 44 color restorer, 3m Finess-it or similar cleaner ( not a wash or a polish) to blend it in. It has been protected from the sun for 5 years. Still cold, rainy and snowy to do mine.
fisherman	posted 03-20-2008 05:51 PM ET (US) The best method for removing old numbers or decals from fibrglass is Oven Cleaner and it will not harm the fibreglass. For the dark brown residue below following removal use a fine rubbing compound. Ray
jf_halloran	posted 04-07-2008 09:06 AM ET (US) I just removed all of the old registration numbers on decals from my boat, and this method worked great. I scraped off all I could with a razor blade. Then I used this stuff called M-1 remover (the painter's left a can at my house after painting the outside) and it took all the old glue and everything else off. It worked really good. I do not know if they sell the stuff in stores though.
Tohsgib	posted 04-08-2008 01:27 PM ET (US) You can get it at automotive paint stores. I am amazed nobody tried the 3m eraser...magic in seconds.