Since my son left his Boston Whaler [NEWPORT 17] sitting in my driveway for a year and a half, and since it had only been on the water twice, I decided the only way the rectify the situation was to buy it from him. Yahoo—I own a boat. This was literally a $1,500 purchase from a little old lady.
We did some maintenance, had the boat’s engine serviced at Evinrude dealer, did some repairs, took out the boat, and all was well.
The next time my son took the boat, the [1999 Evinrude 90-HP FICHT] engine started to stumble then stalled. He towed the boat back to the dock, swapped the battery and [the 1999 Evinrude 90-HP FICHT engine] started up. Then later the engine just would not start at all.
Fast forward a year. The boat is mine now. The engine will crank just fine, fire, then stall like the stop switch was immediately hit. This is the way it was when he parked it.
There is the same problem discussed in this thread http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/016019.html. The remedy was to replace the EMM.
The engine [under discussion here] is a 1999 Evinrude Ficht 90 (e90fpleec) and not the 2000 Ficht 225-HP [discussed in the ten-year-old archived thread linked above]. I think this [difference in engine mosel] may be important because the 1999 90-HP EMM does not incorporate the regulator-rectifier like the 2000 models. I thought perhaps [the cause of the no-start problem] is a regulator-rectifier [defect], but I am not sure how that would manifest.
I went through the diagnostic steps that I could, without the motor running and without the service software, and all tests checked out fine except the Main Power Relay. This was replaced with a correct new Evinrude OEM part but the condition remains. I guess this relay failed due to a source problem.
Any input here might be helpful.
[The Main Power Relay] was thoroughly fried. I connected it to a 9-Volt battery, and there was no click, only a pungent burning smell seconds later.
This engine has had the EMM replaced with a reconditioned unit. The EMM is not the correct part for the motor. It is from a 1999 V6 Ficht. I have seen no other case in my googling of this being ok.
Can an EMM from a 1999 Evinrude V6 FICHT be used to replace an EMM on a 1999 90-HP FICHT?
I'd love to hear from anyone who might have experience that could shed some light on this. Anyone who has ideas please chime in.
The boat is a 1976 Newport 17. Last weekend I have removed the trashed upper deck and found it to be pretty much a Montauk underneath, including the non-slip surfaces at the bow.
1999 Evinrude 90-HP Won’t Run
Re: 1999 Evinrude 90-HP Won’t Run
The initial problem was the engine stalled while underway. The cause for that could have been many things—maybe fuel, maybe electrical.
Next, the engine starting battery is changed. The engine starts, runs briefly, and then never runs again.
Perhaps the battery change induced a new problem.
Generally the EMM must match the engine. They are not generic parts. Also the firmware loaded into the EMM must be appropriate to the particular model.
Resolving problems with the EMM without the EV-Diagnostic software, cable, and terminal will be impossible.
Your best path to resolution of this problem will be to work with an Evinrude dealer who is expert on these 20-year-old direct-injection engines and has experience with EMM recovery or replacement.
Next, the engine starting battery is changed. The engine starts, runs briefly, and then never runs again.
Perhaps the battery change induced a new problem.
Generally the EMM must match the engine. They are not generic parts. Also the firmware loaded into the EMM must be appropriate to the particular model.
Resolving problems with the EMM without the EV-Diagnostic software, cable, and terminal will be impossible.
Your best path to resolution of this problem will be to work with an Evinrude dealer who is expert on these 20-year-old direct-injection engines and has experience with EMM recovery or replacement.
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sonswhaler
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sat May 25, 2019 8:30 pm
Re: 1999 Evinrude 90-HP Won’t Run
I forgot to mention a primary symptom! On the day the boat stopped both consecutive batteries drained entirely in a matter of minutes with the motor running. So...electrical in nature.
Jim, thanks for the input. Are you thinking there could be something wrong with the battery? Or that the process of running the motor with both a problem and a good battery induced more problems? I do think you are correct. It was a progressive failure and running the boat after the initial battery drain did cause degradation since now it won't start. But, what additionally failed and why? And what circuits do I check? I'm currently thinking it has something to do with; ECU, regulator/rectifier, short, or maybe a bad ground? I'd also like to know how my main power relay failed. I think I will test regulator/rectifier today. Any ideas on why one or none of these might be the cause and how to track this down would be welcome. I'm considering buying the harness and software to check the ECU. $69 on eBay...good, bad? What do I need if I want to test it AND be able to transfer my motor info to a replacement ECU?
I'm aware that the ECU is "motor specific", which as I understand it, it has a lot to do with the files for your motor. For the hardware there is some flexibility regarding years and horsepower but I find no case of a v6 ECU identified as compatible with a v4. When I had the motor in for service they backed up my ECU so they have it if it ever fails. I was told if I have a total failure of the ECU they can completely program a new one with the backup. They spoke as if everything was ok and told me the total hours on the motor. I'm wondering if they noticed it had been swapped and if my motor really has only 150 hours. Does this info travel when copying info from one ECU to another? And BTW this motor has an ECU not an EMM...I know, same thing. In 2000 they went to an EMM that has more control over the motor so could the 1999 be more flexible in compatibility? Anyway, I'd like to know what problems this could create if anyone knows.
Jim, thanks for the input. Are you thinking there could be something wrong with the battery? Or that the process of running the motor with both a problem and a good battery induced more problems? I do think you are correct. It was a progressive failure and running the boat after the initial battery drain did cause degradation since now it won't start. But, what additionally failed and why? And what circuits do I check? I'm currently thinking it has something to do with; ECU, regulator/rectifier, short, or maybe a bad ground? I'd also like to know how my main power relay failed. I think I will test regulator/rectifier today. Any ideas on why one or none of these might be the cause and how to track this down would be welcome. I'm considering buying the harness and software to check the ECU. $69 on eBay...good, bad? What do I need if I want to test it AND be able to transfer my motor info to a replacement ECU?
I'm aware that the ECU is "motor specific", which as I understand it, it has a lot to do with the files for your motor. For the hardware there is some flexibility regarding years and horsepower but I find no case of a v6 ECU identified as compatible with a v4. When I had the motor in for service they backed up my ECU so they have it if it ever fails. I was told if I have a total failure of the ECU they can completely program a new one with the backup. They spoke as if everything was ok and told me the total hours on the motor. I'm wondering if they noticed it had been swapped and if my motor really has only 150 hours. Does this info travel when copying info from one ECU to another? And BTW this motor has an ECU not an EMM...I know, same thing. In 2000 they went to an EMM that has more control over the motor so could the 1999 be more flexible in compatibility? Anyway, I'd like to know what problems this could create if anyone knows.
Re: 1999 Evinrude 90-HP Won’t Run
If two fully charged batteries were drained in a few minutes, and if the Main Power Relay is “fried”, there must have been a very serious electrical fault.
Usually a high-current electrical fault leaves some physical evidence behind to reveal its location. Begin your investigation with a very close visual and olfactory inspection of the entire engine and associated wiring.
Connecting a battery with reversed polarity might cause serious damage.
I know nothing about cables and software sold on eBay except from people who bought them, found they didn’t work, and then emailed me for advice. I recommend getting the software from an Evinrude dealer, and buying the cable and USB-to-RS232 serial adopter from reputable vendors.
I am not familiar with FICHT-era Evinrude engines. I think the EV-Diagnostic software prior to Version 6 will work with the FICHT engines. I think the legacy E-TEC cable will also work. You should find someone with much more familiarity with FICHT-era engines than I have.
Usually a high-current electrical fault leaves some physical evidence behind to reveal its location. Begin your investigation with a very close visual and olfactory inspection of the entire engine and associated wiring.
Connecting a battery with reversed polarity might cause serious damage.
I know nothing about cables and software sold on eBay except from people who bought them, found they didn’t work, and then emailed me for advice. I recommend getting the software from an Evinrude dealer, and buying the cable and USB-to-RS232 serial adopter from reputable vendors.
I am not familiar with FICHT-era Evinrude engines. I think the EV-Diagnostic software prior to Version 6 will work with the FICHT engines. I think the legacy E-TEC cable will also work. You should find someone with much more familiarity with FICHT-era engines than I have.