1989 REVENGE 22: Remove Water from Wet Foam

[burnett1]

I was thinking of making an inspection opening in the cabin deck of my 1989 REVENGE 22 where the porta potty holes were drilled. I believe the foam between the boat bottom and the cabin floor has been inundated with water which came through the compromised brass thu-hull tube. My intended solution is to dry out the foam over time by running a dehumidifier in the cabin.

Q1: what is the best way to remove water from foam in a Unibond hull?

[burnett1]

I own a 1989 REVENGE 22. I have a concern with the brass tube thru hull drain allowing water in between the boat bottom and the cabin deck. Some water dripped out through the brass tube during dry storage, however I am certain the foam core is heavy and soaked with water.

My attempted fix to accelerate the dry out process is to drill an inspection hole which would at least expose a small open area where the porta potty is located and run a dehumidifier in the cabin.

Give me comments and suggestions [on how to remove water from the interior foam in a Unibond hull].

[jimh]

Q1: what is the best way to remove water from foam in a Unibond hull in the deck floor of the cabin of a 1989 REVENGE 22?

You have asked a frequently-asked question. In the REFERENCE section in the FAQ section, there is a comprehensive answer. Please see

Q3: Is there water in a Unibond hull?
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q3

If you think the path for water to enter the foam interior was from a brass through-hull drain, then the best way to remove water around a through-hull drain hole will be to removed the brass tube and work on that area first.

Removing water from a Unibond hull using evaporation will be a long process. Read the story of the Alaskan SQUALL.

Removing Water from Unibond Hull Using Evaporation--The Alaskan SQUALL
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... 162#p52016

[Jefecinco]

Consider sealing any leaks. If your 1989 REVENGE 22 sits on its lines in the water, then ignore the possibility—I would say the probability—of water in your boat hull interior foam, and enjoy your purchase.

[burnett1]

I appreciate the extensive knowledge and help. I am still considering making a inspection plate in the cabin sole.

Q2: is the foam core construction just for floatation or part of the hull strength an integrity?

Q3: how much extra weight in the cabin area could be created if [the foam there is] completely saturated?

There is no more water dripping out, so I believe there is still considerable water-ladened weight in the foam.

Also, I am considering plugging the brass tube fittings with some type of epoxy resin.

Q4: what epoxy resin is recommended for plugging the brass tube fitting?

[Moderator’s note: please DO NOT start a new threat with each post you make. Twice now you have done this. Just use the REPLY option to reply. Any new thread you start on this same topic will no longer be moved and will be deleted.

[jimh]

Q2: is the foam core construction just for floatation or part of the hull strength an integrity?

The foam is a essential structural part of the hull. The flotation is created by the double bottom construction.

[jimh]

Q3: how much extra weight in the cabin area could be created if [the foam there is] completely saturated?

If the foam is saturated with water, the weight would increase by

The density of water per square-foot times the volume of the space containing the saturated foam.

Fresh water weighs 62-lbs-per-cubic-foot.

[jimh]

Q4: what epoxy resin is recommended for plugging the brass tube fitting?

Clarify your question. It is worded ambiguously. I don’t know what you mean by “plugging”.

[burnett1]

I would like to plug the thru hull fitting using possibly 5200 epoxy-not sure what the intended use was, however I know the consequences from a poor design and questionable quality of the brass tube, considering the outcome of it failing.

[jimh]

I would like to plug the thru hull fitting using possibly 5200 epoxy-not sure what the intended use was, however I know the consequences from a poor design and questionable quality of the brass tube, considering the outcome of it failing.

I still don’t have a clue what you mean by “plug the through hull fitting.”

3M5200 is not an epoxy. It is an adhesive-sealant. Once cured it is extremely difficult o remove.

The purpose of the through-hull drain in the cabin sole of a REVENGE 22 is to allow water to be drained from the sump to the sea when the boat is underway with forward motion o when on a trail or when on a lift. This drain is stoppered with a rubber plug.

If you think the brass tube is compromised you should replace it.

See the FAQ for advice on service to brass through hull drains.

Q12: How are brass drain tubes replaced?
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q12

[burnett1]

Thank you for the reply.

I understand the function of the sump drain. I felt it would be easier to try to waterproof the thru hull making it unusable however water tight from below the water line. I rarely get water in the cabin area and when I do I use a cup and rag to dry it out.

Your expertise is greatly appreciated.

[jimh]

For advice on making repairs to a Unibond hull, see

Advice on Making Repairs to a Unibond Hull
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... f=6&t=9254