Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Repair or modification of Boston Whaler boats, their engines, trailers, and gear
NYMCAH
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Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2020 4:42 pm

Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby NYMCAH » Tue Jul 14, 2026 1:12 am

I was ready to bolt on my SUZUKI 25-HP engine to my 1983 13-footer, but I noticed that the horizontally-curved transom leaves a gap between the mounting bracket holes and the transom.

1.jpg
Fig. 1. Engine resting on upper lip of transom, which is not the proper position for engine mounting.
1.jpg (46.63 KiB) Viewed 563 times


2.jpg
Fig. 2. Another close-up view of engine resting on transom.
2.jpg (56.05 KiB) Viewed 561 times


Q: Is this gap [seen in Figures 1 and 2] large enough that I should use some sort of shim And if so, are there any recommendations?

I can imagine anything from stacked washers to a custom CNC'd part.

jimh
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Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby jimh » Tue Jul 14, 2026 4:52 am

For advice on engine mounting on a 13-footer, see the owner's manual section under the heading "ENGINE INSTALLATION."

If you do not have a printed copy of the owner's manual, you can use my on-line HTML version of that document. See

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/refer ... index.html

Engine installation is discussed in the "Operation" section of the manual at

https://continuouswave.com/whaler/refer ... stallation

See the advice in the paragraph that begins "On 13-foot models (prior to 1986) the transom is slightly curved."

Since your 13-footer is from 1983, you will likely be encountering the problem mentioned in that section of the owner's manual.

Further advice is given in the Frequently Asked Questions answer at

Q8: How does the engine mount ot the transom?
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q8

Also see the FAQ at

Q9: What is the standard transom hole layout?
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/FAQ/#Q9

Also see an article in the PERFORMANCE forum on this topic at

Considerations in Engine Mounting Height
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... f=7&t=6618

And--very important--before drilling any holes in the transom. read the article in Performance at

Transom Mounting Hole Layout for Shallow Splash Well
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... f=7&t=5808

NYMCAH
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Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2020 4:42 pm

Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby NYMCAH » Tue Jul 14, 2026 2:19 pm

Thanks Jim - not sure how I missed [those resources] before. I will go with the stacked-washer method.

jimh
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Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby jimh » Wed Jul 15, 2026 10:07 am

From the two illustrations provided (above) there is no indication if the transom has been drilled for engine mounting. If there are holes, you need to measure their positions to see if they are correctly located. If no holes, you need to drill them.

Many professional outboard engine installers use a metal template to assist in locating and drilling the holes. If you don’t have a template, be very certain to carefully check the positions before drilling the holes.

Also be sure to use sealant on the fasteners as they pass through the transom to prevent water from reaching the embedded wood in the transom.

The usual orientation of the engine mounting bolts is to have the head of the bolts on the inboard side of the transom, and the securing nut on the outboard end of the bolt.

The bolt length should not be excessive. Use shoulder bolts so most of the portion of the bolt in the transom is smooth and not threaded.

On the inboard side, use large, thick, square aluminum plates to spread the load onto the transom so the hull laminate won't be crushed under compression by the mounting bolts. On the outboard end, use normal washers under the nuts to spread the load onto the engine bracket.

If necessary, cut off excess threaded portion of the bolts to produce a cleaner installation. An elastic stop nut can be used to prevent the nut from loosening. As a finishing touch use a nylon or plastic cap to cover the end of the bolt so remove any sharp edges.

jimh
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Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby jimh » Wed Jul 15, 2026 10:35 am

NYMCAH wrote:I was ready to bolt on my SUZUKI 25-HP engine to my 1983 13-footer...
From your use of the verb "bolt on" I am assuming you will be attaching the engine with four mounting bolts. But I notice in Figure 1 that the engine has the old-school temporary transom clamp bolts with large circular ends and with attached extensions to aid in tightening the clamps by hand.

If you are going to mount the engine that way, you will need a small wedge-shaped vertical spacer or shim to raise the engine off the top of the transom, and shaped to let the flat portion of the engine bracket contact a larger area on the top of the transom.

NYMCAH
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Joined: Sat Dec 12, 2020 4:42 pm

Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby NYMCAH » Wed Jul 15, 2026 7:27 pm

Thanks for the replies, Jim.

Planning to use a lift to position the engine properly, clamp it on, and mark the holes. Then will over-drill the holes to 1", fill with epoxy, and re-drill the 12mm holes for the bolts (might go 12.5mm). Will be sure to use plenty of 4200.

Stainless washers are on the way from McMaster to account for the curve!

jimh
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Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby jimh » Thu Jul 16, 2026 9:28 am

Follow the standard transom engine mounting hole layout recommended. The top holes should have their centers 1-7/8-inch below the transom upper edge. If the engine splashwell allows, the lower holes are spaced 8-inches on-center lower. More details are given about alternative positions for the lower holes in

Transom Mounting Hole Layout for Shallow Splashwells
https://continuouswave.com/forum/viewto ... 808#p33740

Study the diagram provided in the above article.

With the proper hole layout the engine mounting height can be adjusted by using different pairs of holes on the engine mounting bracket.

jimh
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Re: Engine Mounting on 1983 13-footer

Postby jimh » Sat Jul 18, 2026 2:39 pm

NYMCAH wrote:I will be sure to use plenty of 3M4200.
The 3M4200 is an adhesive sealant, so you should be aware that once it cures the removal of the sealant will likely be rather difficult.