Adjustment of Engine Remote Throttle and Shift Control Deadband

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Author Topic:   Adjustment of Engine Remote Throttle and Shift Control Deadband

EJO posted 05-06-2013 12:25 PM ET (US)
I noticed on my 2008 Montauk 15 with 60-HP [Mercury BIGFOOT outboard engine] the travel for forward throttle is about 155-degrees and from neutral to engage is within 2-degrees or so. But [then] the engine does [not] rev-up for a 30-degrees, and after [more movement] [the engine throttle] goes from idle all the way to [maximum throttle]. Is it normal to have that much play before the throttle engages[?] From neutral to forward the handle engages quickly, but then there is a long travel before the engine reacts to giving it gas.If this isn't normal where can I adjust this? Thanks.
Finally got the boat out Friday eve after dinner for a short shake down and out run.
jimh posted 05-06-2013 03:56 PM ET (US)
There is typically a large range of motion in the lever of a remote throttle and shift control in which one lever controls both. Usually there are instructions supplied with the remote throttle and shift controls. These instructions explain the intended ranges of motions, and where adjustments, if any, can be made. Usually the motion ranges are controlled by the shape of cams which are moved by the lever and operate the linkages.
The action of the cam and levers in the remote controls is transmitted to the engine by mechanical cable linkages. These cables also influence the feel and action of the controls. If the cables have stretched or become elastic instead of rigid, the action and feel of the lever will be much different.
Mercury tends to make remote throttle and shift controls in several tiers, and it is hard to say exactly what tier of Mercury controls you have. In general I have not been particularly impressed with the Mercury remote engine and shift controls that I have used. Perhaps I have been using only their lowest quality tier.
EJO posted 05-07-2013 01:06 PM ET (US)
Jim thanks for the info. I don't know the tier either but I assume that BW on their 50th anniversary 2008 Montauk 15 with the Mercury used something a little better than bottom of the line Teleflex.
I'm used to my old Chris-Crafts and other inboard motors where a 1/8" movement to the throttle resulted in 100 rpm increase/decrease of engine. I'm new to this remote steering and gas as the last time I did that was in the 80's and I forgot how that was all others lately were my tiller controlled OB dinghies. Maybe I have to learn to live with the delay.
L H G posted 05-07-2013 03:03 PM ET (US)
I believe Boston Whaler uses Meercury's top of the line Platinium cables, which are silver in color. I have some in use, and they are super smooth.
Take off the engine hood and look at the throttle cable connection on the port side. It sounds like something is wrong, loose or out of adjustment. Have someone operate the control through it's motions while you look at the cable movements on the engine. Your engine installation manual, furnished with the engine, should tell you step by step how to install and adjust them correctly. If you didn't get one with the boat purchase, call Whaler and have them send you one. They are supposed to be included with every engine sale.
If everything looks good at the engine end, I suppose your problem could be in the control itself, or in the cable attachment to the control.
EJO posted 05-08-2013 10:51 AM ET (US)
L H G thank you for the explanation.
I did get a Merc manual in my Red BW bag and will give it a try this eve as it sound I might be able to adjust some of the slack out.
I'll report back after I've been successful maybe not until this weekend. Just got the weather news and there will be morning frost warnings this Saturday and Sunday (welcome to SW Michigan)
jimh posted 05-09-2013 09:36 AM ET (US)
Typically in outboard engine remote controls, there is a linear motion of the throttle control cable end at the engine. There is a dead band of movement of the throttle lever at the remote control, that is, some movement of the remote throttle lever occurs before the linear movement of throttle cable. This dead band is probably inherent in the remote throttle control design. It may not be adjustable, but that could vary with the design of the controls.
At the engine, the linear movement of the throttle cable end is usually applied to another lever. This lever operates the throttle linkage. I am not familiar with the particular engine in use in this discussion, but in general the throttle linkage of an outboard engine can be complicated. In older engines with older designs, the throttle linkage can become complex, and there may be actuator cams involved in it. The throttle linkage almost always operates a rotating throttle plate in the air path. It can also operate linkages for ignition timing advance and for cooling system valves. If there are multiple throttle plates, as in the case of an engine with multiple carburetors, there is linkage involving all of the throttle plates. I mention this to give the sense of the complexity of the linkage that may exist.
I do not recommend making any adjustments to the throttle linkage on the engine unless you really know what you are doing. There typically are complex procedures necessary to get all of the motions of the linkage synchronized. The only adjustment that is typically necessary is to position of remote throttle cable's linear motion range into the proper position relative to the throttle lever on the engine. This is usually accomplished by a knurled knob on the cable end that allows the cable to move relative to its retainer mount on the engine. This adjustment could be out of specification and be causing the remote throttle lever to have the sloppy feel you describe.
EJO posted 05-09-2013 10:06 AM ET (US)
I did make an adjustment at the engine and I'll find out this weekend if it gets over 50 degrees.
There was a good 1/2" play in the inner cable that connected to the outside throttle plate, I therefore moved the outside cable farther forward to eliminate most of this slack by using the outer cable hold-down which is threaded and so can be adjusted.
I'll find out when I get her in the water and I'll report back.
Thank you all for your input.

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Author	Topic: Adjustment of Engine Remote Throttle and Shift Control Deadband
EJO	posted 05-06-2013 12:25 PM ET (US) I noticed on my 2008 Montauk 15 with 60-HP [Mercury BIGFOOT outboard engine] the travel for forward throttle is about 155-degrees and from neutral to engage is within 2-degrees or so. But [then] the engine does [not] rev-up for a 30-degrees, and after [more movement] [the engine throttle] goes from idle all the way to [maximum throttle]. Is it normal to have that much play before the throttle engages[?] From neutral to forward the handle engages quickly, but then there is a long travel before the engine reacts to giving it gas.If this isn't normal where can I adjust this? Thanks. Finally got the boat out Friday eve after dinner for a short shake down and out run.
jimh	posted 05-06-2013 03:56 PM ET (US) There is typically a large range of motion in the lever of a remote throttle and shift control in which one lever controls both. Usually there are instructions supplied with the remote throttle and shift controls. These instructions explain the intended ranges of motions, and where adjustments, if any, can be made. Usually the motion ranges are controlled by the shape of cams which are moved by the lever and operate the linkages. The action of the cam and levers in the remote controls is transmitted to the engine by mechanical cable linkages. These cables also influence the feel and action of the controls. If the cables have stretched or become elastic instead of rigid, the action and feel of the lever will be much different. Mercury tends to make remote throttle and shift controls in several tiers, and it is hard to say exactly what tier of Mercury controls you have. In general I have not been particularly impressed with the Mercury remote engine and shift controls that I have used. Perhaps I have been using only their lowest quality tier.
EJO	posted 05-07-2013 01:06 PM ET (US) Jim thanks for the info. I don't know the tier either but I assume that BW on their 50th anniversary 2008 Montauk 15 with the Mercury used something a little better than bottom of the line Teleflex. I'm used to my old Chris-Crafts and other inboard motors where a 1/8" movement to the throttle resulted in 100 rpm increase/decrease of engine. I'm new to this remote steering and gas as the last time I did that was in the 80's and I forgot how that was all others lately were my tiller controlled OB dinghies. Maybe I have to learn to live with the delay.
L H G	posted 05-07-2013 03:03 PM ET (US) I believe Boston Whaler uses Meercury's top of the line Platinium cables, which are silver in color. I have some in use, and they are super smooth. Take off the engine hood and look at the throttle cable connection on the port side. It sounds like something is wrong, loose or out of adjustment. Have someone operate the control through it's motions while you look at the cable movements on the engine. Your engine installation manual, furnished with the engine, should tell you step by step how to install and adjust them correctly. If you didn't get one with the boat purchase, call Whaler and have them send you one. They are supposed to be included with every engine sale. If everything looks good at the engine end, I suppose your problem could be in the control itself, or in the cable attachment to the control.
EJO	posted 05-08-2013 10:51 AM ET (US) L H G thank you for the explanation. I did get a Merc manual in my Red BW bag and will give it a try this eve as it sound I might be able to adjust some of the slack out. I'll report back after I've been successful maybe not until this weekend. Just got the weather news and there will be morning frost warnings this Saturday and Sunday (welcome to SW Michigan)
jimh	posted 05-09-2013 09:36 AM ET (US) Typically in outboard engine remote controls, there is a linear motion of the throttle control cable end at the engine. There is a dead band of movement of the throttle lever at the remote control, that is, some movement of the remote throttle lever occurs before the linear movement of throttle cable. This dead band is probably inherent in the remote throttle control design. It may not be adjustable, but that could vary with the design of the controls. At the engine, the linear movement of the throttle cable end is usually applied to another lever. This lever operates the throttle linkage. I am not familiar with the particular engine in use in this discussion, but in general the throttle linkage of an outboard engine can be complicated. In older engines with older designs, the throttle linkage can become complex, and there may be actuator cams involved in it. The throttle linkage almost always operates a rotating throttle plate in the air path. It can also operate linkages for ignition timing advance and for cooling system valves. If there are multiple throttle plates, as in the case of an engine with multiple carburetors, there is linkage involving all of the throttle plates. I mention this to give the sense of the complexity of the linkage that may exist. I do not recommend making any adjustments to the throttle linkage on the engine unless you really know what you are doing. There typically are complex procedures necessary to get all of the motions of the linkage synchronized. The only adjustment that is typically necessary is to position of remote throttle cable's linear motion range into the proper position relative to the throttle lever on the engine. This is usually accomplished by a knurled knob on the cable end that allows the cable to move relative to its retainer mount on the engine. This adjustment could be out of specification and be causing the remote throttle lever to have the sloppy feel you describe.
EJO	posted 05-09-2013 10:06 AM ET (US) I did make an adjustment at the engine and I'll find out this weekend if it gets over 50 degrees. There was a good 1/2" play in the inner cable that connected to the outside throttle plate, I therefore moved the outside cable farther forward to eliminate most of this slack by using the outer cable hold-down which is threaded and so can be adjusted. I'll find out when I get her in the water and I'll report back. Thank you all for your input.